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jasonm.

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Everything posted by jasonm.

  1. jasonm.
    Bobcat, You use "Brake Fluid" to clean your rotors???? FYI , your pads clean them better than any steel wool.
  2. jasonm.
    A few shots of WD40 then fallowed w/PJ1 black chain lube may do the same as above. As I always lube all pivots and this is one of them.
  3. jasonm.
    Xenon bulbs are hardly more expensive @$10 at Autozone than standard bulbs. So whatever kit you mention is unknown to me? In reality the Xenon bulbs are ONLY slightly brighter than the stocker. I may try Silverstars. But I hate their adds. FYI, quartz bulbs don't dim over time...they just get dirty and scratched lenses. DOAH...
  4. jasonm.
    ONLY V-Max rotors up to '92 match up in size to the 1300 86-'93 Venture. I bought a used set of Vmax rotors. They fit just fine but one was bent. I got a refund and I bought new EBC rotors. The EBCs are thick like the OEM rotors. If you did not know. The Venture rotors are thicker than most bikes. But the drilled holes from EBC are oddly spaced in my opinion. BUT oddly enough my EBCs work fine.
  5. jasonm.
    I de-linked my brakes way before most ever thought of it. One important thing. The front calipers have different size pistons, left 32mm, right 34mm. Thus one set of pads in front will wear faster than the other. If you change calipers. You need to find ones that will fit the thicker discs of the Venture. I used FJ1200 calipers because they take the same pads as the 1300 Venture and the pistons were the same as the left side stock caliper 32mm. So I would have spare parts if needed. BUT I still had to use my dremel and center the calipers. CENTERING is important. FYI- no matter which brake you touch the electronic anti-dive works on both forks. Mine are on a manual switch(usually off). With progressive springs I really don't need the anti-dive. Plus antidive stiffens the front too much for me in the corners when I need the brakes.
  6. jasonm.
    when you take the elbow out of the water pump you will likely find corrosion. This is because the o-ring sits far from the end. ANd water from riding in the rain and other crap gets in there. I used #600 wet paper to clean things up. Then new orings and permatex ultra grey while assembling to prevent the corrosion in the future. You may want to do the same on the thermostat housing for the elbow.
  7. jasonm.
    how do you get the shield out w/o damaging the bearing? I know Yamaha only sells them sealed(shielded).
  8. jasonm.
    PLASTIC repairs made easy. GO to wally world or True Value hdwr. Get Devcon Plastic welder. There are other plastic welders. But this stuff is the best. Read the directions, sets up fast at 70 degree air temp or greater. If the nipple thing is broken. Just thread a screw in the proper height and use Devcon over the screw and file , sand, grind to shape. you can even shape it while it sets by putting plastic wrap over and shape w/finger. Devcon does not stick to plastic wrap. Thus you can work it like modling clay for a few minutes.
  9. jasonm.
    the resistor used by people in this situation does not change the voltage. In this case it limits the current to protect the sensor display. You can use a Zener diode. Say rated for 6 or so volts. WHat this will do is any voltage greater than 6 will go to the sensor wire. So if you have 14 volts while running. The sensor gets a signal of 8 volts. I have been an elec.tech for 30yrs. So I know what I am saying here. One warning with a Zener. Don't connect it backwards and they are often glass. Making them more fragile that a resistor.
  10. jasonm.
    5bikes , good info. Don't forget sluggish above 5k is sometime bad slide diaphragms. Wish I had a GSX1100G ...I luv those torque monsters. Modern engines like an ~ 13:1 fuel air ratio for most power. But will run @14:1 . Too lean always reduces power with hesitation. Too rich reduces power as the engine gets hotter but usually runs without hesitation symptoms. My experience >Too rich takes longer to figure out and resolve to perfection.
  11. jasonm.
    I have a spare dash. All bulbs say #158, but I think a 194 is the same.
  12. jasonm.
    The slides/diaphragm assys are the likely issue. With one bad, you'll get a break up or bogg up high in the revs . If 2 or more are bad you will have that sluggish feeling you describe. My '83 had the exact issue. It was the slide assys. The rubber developes holes and loose the ability to open up as designed. The price on these used to be below $50 each. I do not know what they go for now in todays whacky economy ? Some have tried to repair the holes. But seriously, what really survives in a gas fume environment and is flexible?...nothing. Do not use a silicone RTV! As they clearly warn against this usage on the package. Replace them, but you need a special hollow torx bit to get one cap screw out. Another slim chance, It is also possible a jet or 2 is clogged. Like I said , my '83 did the exact thing.
  13. jasonm.
    TX has the idea here. It's 80% chance an O-ring. 20% the water pump seal. But the water pump seal usually show it's worn by the weep hole and leaving spotting on the clutch cover due to your driving while it leaks. The front Oring is now a silicone orange design. There is a similar one toward the water pump on the same pipe. This is called the "by-pass" pipe. I also installed a silicone one there. I think it's the same size. Lastly the large elbow, I also had that leak. But the issue is corrosion at this because the oring does not stop crap from area on the the "dry side". I lightly sander w/#600 on the aluminum and used Permatex ultra when I replaced the large elbow orings to keep that from corroding again. Remember , if it leaks enough you will start seeing a white crusty powdery film. Or the color of your antifreeze.
  14. jasonm.
    AFter 70k. I do not know if the sound I hear is the "speedo moan". Just a sound at low speed, especially when cornering. Could just be my fender extender touching the tire. Or tire noise. As I have always had the speedo cable greased. I would have hoped a spec or 2 came off to keep the bushing good. Wish there was a picture posted of this bushing. Is this simply the square hole for the cable??? I have spare speedos off other yamahas...maybe I will see this bushing on a spare.Or I may just take the lower cable off and yank the innerds out,and see if the sound disappears.
  15. jasonm.
    I just went thru my carbs completly. The bowl o-rings you-all mention, are very durable. AFTER 20+ years mine sealed up perfectly after the "rebuild" that they did not need. Replacements not needed.
  16. jasonm.
    Do you know the amount of miles does each engine has...?
  17. jasonm.
    HI Guys, It's been a while. I had almost had my '87 on the road this year. But when cracking the throttle below 2500rpm something kept causing the bike to cough back and run like crap. I actually totally went thru the carbs. $30 in gaskets later and no change...it hit me. The damn "boost sensor" may be bad. I checked the one on the bike with my "mighty vac". Sure enough it had a slight vacuum leak. I had purchased a spare good one years ago from Ebay. Took 10 minutes to swap it. Problem solved. At least I have clean carbs now. And hope to have it totally together in the Spring. One more thing, once past 3000rpm the bike is/was a rocket. And also this sensor does govern ignition should you close the throttle at higher speeds. Allowing smooth re-acceleration. At least that's my theory. I tried fixing the original an posted by "crazyyamaha". No luck...Mine looked fine intenally. But No matter what I did(epoxy, RTV) I had a leak. So I will check ebay when the spare craps out. 12/15/08 I did get the original fixed. Which will be my spare. But I did notice that on the graph. It shows 60cm of vacuum causes the voltage to drop to .5volts. Using my Mighty Vac to test-My original did this TILL I "fixed it". Now it just goes to just under 1.0 vdc. Same as the replacement I installed. I do not know if this is significant. But may have to do with the sensitivity of the sensor. As by Venture has Dyno'd many times always around 93hp with the original sensor. MAY have to do another dyno run...?
  18. jasonm.
    5 psi hot is normal on these. That is why they don't have an oil pressure warning light. It is strictly and "oil level" warning indicator. I did not know there is a new style elbow. When did this come about ?
  19. jasonm.
    I see the pics are of the upper front mounts. What about the lower front mounts ? For the lower front mounts. The book shows the flat side of the "D" facing straight down or a horizontal. Like this "D" rotated 90 degrees CCW. SO I would suspect that is close. Your pics look similar the manual's photos. But in the manual there really is no "close up".
  20. jasonm.
    I am finally about to reinstall my engine. Please don't ask what I was doing. I am embarassed enough and here's another embarrassing thing. But my question is that the motor mounts have a "D" shape at the ends. My '86-'87 OEM manual does not specify the exact way these should face. The OEM factory manual has pictures of the engine in various stages of disassembly. But I am not sure if I shoud go by these pictures? And looking at the long term wear on them. I can figure out the rear mounts. But the front...I am not so sure:confused24:. So I either need pics from someone or maybe someone can describe which direction the flat side of the "D" should be facing on one side.Then I can do the same on the other. One more thing....I am putting the engine in SUNDAY 4/6. email me if you can or reply here. I will check before I start @2pm EDT. ..email jsmthefix@optimum.net
  21. jasonm.
    you do not need to remove the carbs to remove the engine breather in the middle of the "V". But you do need tiny hands or properly designed allen wrench set. Patience is critical here. Dealer did it many years ago for a friend. They did not remove the carbs. You can remove the carbs if you wish. But I would also replace the lower throttle cables while you are in there.
  22. jasonm.
    to whom....did you know that the 1300s already have 2nd gear undercut? They do...In fact where there are slots and dogs there is undercut on these. I am surprised at the wear on your washers and retainers.My 87's are like new after 70k. But the middle bearing blowing apart was no fun. It's still in pieces. It's coming together...I hope. Yes, I am slow...a perfectionist.
  23. jasonm.
    the biggest gain is lack of parts to keep your ride running. But the idea requires a new manifold. I have only replace my slides once due to holing and one just fell apart. This was @ 50k. 4 individual carbs always gives best performance possible. So I will stick with what I have...93 rwhp. & 81 ft/lbs.
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