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jasonm.

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Everything posted by jasonm.

  1. jasonm.
    FYI- Gas coming out the over flow tubes means the float chamber is absolutely full. These carbs need only to be 1/4 full to function. Also the ethanol is common around here now for 8 years. The stuff absorbs water and the white you see is the aluminum of the carbs corroding due to the amount of h2o that lives at the bottom of the carbs. Take ethanol gas, poor 3 oz. into a clear glass in summer on a mildly humid day. Set it outside. Come back 1 to 2 hours later...result>enough water at the bottom to spawn water bugs. New gas is junk!
  2. jasonm.
    here's the latest after my cleaning and a romp on the hiway for 100 miles. Prior to me going out I set the low speed screws #1- 2.5 ccw, #2 - 2.25 ccw, #3 - 3.5 ccw & #4- 2.25 ccw. These were all done with my tach and finding the peak setting and turning it in 1/4 turn(lean drop). 1st...plugs are not black since the latest cleaning. I think I had had the bike started too many times w/choke for too long. SO NOW The insulator tip looks almost light brown fading to orange and then rose color. All within the top half of the insulator. Then you see the white far down. There are also still some dark bits that did not burn off. Also this ride was...FAST. Which after you read further the darker areas should have disappeared. I found myself 90% of the time doing over 75. often going 80+ and did three full throttle roll on tests. Saw 115 on the speedo 2 times on a slight down hill. The good is the new steering head bearings makes the bike ride on rails. The bad is, I compared an old spark plug I removed in '97 . Which showed it was obviously running "cleaner" back then. In '97 the color was a just a hint of light brown or orange towards the very tip and fading quickly away to white. So 80% of the plug's insulator was white back then. Did 100 miles in less than 75 minutes. Got just under 35mpg. With the latest carb settings... oddly enough the faster I go...the smoother the engine is. She buzzes oddly at the grips @3500 in 5th. She get much smoother @ 4000 & above 4300 . She is liveable at all highway speeds but is quite nice @5000-6000+ in 5th...you do the math. Next test is doing back roads at speeds of 45 - 65 then read the new plugs I just installed. Also for those asking, I did change my plug wires and caps 4 years ago. Never a spark problem. And I do have a clean K&N filter in the air box. Lastly, for those who have removed the jet block. The o-rings that I did not change located around the brass needle jet. I have no idea why they are there? As looking at the old gaskets show the gasket would and did effectively seal this area. I of course replace the gaskets. But the new gaskets are of a different material.Anyone know for sure the small o-rings exact purpose? I suspect the o-ring to seal the needle jet shaft better. ANd since I did not change them...this is likely my issue. FYI- I could never prior to this ever start it cold in the morning w/o choke. And for the few who said they can start w/o choke but it idles pooly and or dies. This is where mine used to be years ago. I used to get great MPGs @37-45mpg. Now those great MPGs are gone. I bet you guys who need choke or runs poorly w/o it get nice MPGs.
  3. jasonm.
    3 out of 4 carbs at the 16mm below center specification. Checked both on the bench many times and bike. To be sure on the bike. I had to shim the center stand and front wheel. ANd with the bike running. Let's just say, I am a perfectionist on these mechanical bits. The 4th carb is at 15mm...no problem. You have to be way off on the levels to cause rich or lean issues. Again floats are at spec. One thing I did not do, is get new spark plugs. Just cleaned the old ones that had about 6k on them. I have gone 20k on plugs with no wear or gap changes. I am going to check the plugs after another 100 mile hiway run and let you know. Coasting enrichers... I never messed with those. As I believe- when bad , they cause popping when you roll off the gas ....no popping here.
  4. jasonm.
    As far as an intake leak goes. My air box is sealed up perfect with permatex ultra black. No oil drips out. Thus it's air tight. I did check the intake manifolds using wd40...which should cause a misfire. Also my issue it is likely too rich. My latest test- I let her just idle for 3 x 15 minute stretches to get the water pump gasket to set up which was my latest thing on another thread.As my latest test shows the plugs very black w/o using the choke. Yet, she idles very good. Again I use a digital tach which shows changes in 10 rpm increments as I adjust the pilot screws...which you just cannot hear but the tach does not lie. Also the pilot screws are mostly at 2-1/4 CCW. Which is I believe cannot be too rich under normal circumstances. How many can start a stone cold bike 1st thing in the morning. ANd drive away in less than 3 minutes and give her the gas hard w/o so much as a hick-up. Unless you have EFI. I am thinking that when I pulled the "jet blocks" and I did not change the damn tiny o-rings that seal against the brass needle jet assys. Now some fuel or vapor is getting in when it should not. . Dumb arsss me. Compression test not yet. But when I had the engine apart I did put oil in the cylinders...knowing it was a long job. And last time on the dyno(4 years ago) she pulled 93hp...yes she's stock.As far as the colortune. I'll get back to you.
  5. jasonm.
    Here is the main reason for the holes in the middle area of the rubber...not the edge or slide area. Look at the carb cover that's over the diaphragm. You will see stops cast into the cover. These stops rub the diaphragm when you hammer the throttle. Thus holes deveplope. I took my dremel tool and ground them away and sanded all baby butt smooth. But normally the diaphragms should last a minimum of 30k or 7 years. Unless you have some real bad gas out your way that hurts the rubber. Mine are 7 years old with not many miles and look like new. Most of my originals went ~50k. With only one going bad at 35k because the cap let go that holds the slide to the diaphragm, but no holes.
  6. jasonm.
    resyncing the carbs is needed due to the carb linkages, left to right wearing and the engine's intenals also ever so slightly wearing. Which in turn changes vacuum to the carbs. But mostly it's the linkages. Dragonslayor , I feel your pain. I may have to pull my carbs also. Due to my not so perfect rebuild...As it looks now with mine. I should have changed more than just the internal gaskets.
  7. jasonm.
    Dragonslayer...what prompted you to play with the floats in the first place? I know we cannot go back in time. But I am curious. Were they leaking even before you touched them? If yes, then you may need new needle seat assemblies. I had 2 needles go bad. They are rubber and they dry out. The seats are brass and really do not go bad. So just changing the needle fixes things. Unfortunately you have to get both needle and seat from Yamaha @ $30 each set.
  8. jasonm.
    LATEST update...I decided to see how rich it might be running. So knowing that the bike will run, but poorly w/o the air filter in. ..... I warmed up the engine- I took the air filter out. I know it should not be able to run completely properly unless the air filter is installed. Results-It idles fine & I can turn the throttle slowly or lightly blip it...then as the revs rise and slides try to open...she then boggs. Which I know is the "norm". So if any cylinders are rich ....it's likely a minority. I do remember the right pair spark plugs darker than the left. I will check the spark plugs after many more miles. I did sync the carbs. Bottom line...wish I had an EGA machine to figure out which cylinders might be giving me a problem...If I have a problem. Then I could save myself much time. -Continue replying with your thoughts and ideas.
  9. jasonm.
    16mm below the mark is what the book says....+/- 1 mm. I have 3 of mine right on 16mm. The odd ball is closer to 15mm. But I do not believe it's a big thing on mine. Here's the other pain. Like I said, they must be absolutely level when checking. This is a big pain on the bike. So do a lot of bench checking. You need 1/8" id clear hose. More the better. Have each carb with it's own clear hose and keep them connected. Now you can actually check them on the bike. You'll have to use a small level on the carbs to check before you put the air box on. You'll need to shim the center stand and front wheel to get these spot on. IN FACT you may start it with the air box off and check the reality of how it's working with the bike's fuel system w/the bike running. Had I done the last step all of mine would be 16mm dead on.
  10. jasonm.
    there is a center mark on both the float bowl and carb body. You MUST have the carb you are working on absolutely level. And measure 16mm below the marks then make your own mark. THEN use the drain opened and a clear hose to confirm the gasoline's height in the bowl...then you are good. Be careful of air bubbles in your clear hose. Do NOT attempt to set the floats with the bowl removed and measuring the floats physical height...this would not be correct.
  11. jasonm.
    I guess I am giving too much info. I just wanted to give enough so no duplicates of what I already did.So here are the 2 things of my concern that may be related. (1) yes, running a bit rough(vibration at grips an feet) at hiway speeds(3800-4500) and (2) seems too easy to start w/o using the choke at all and goes like hell even when cold(too rich?). If I full choke it on 1st start of the day...it won't start till I back it down to 1/2. This I do remember as somewhat normal-not needing full choke unless truly cold out. But it would still start w/full or almost full choke which was often needed on a cold day(40 degrees). Now it hardly needs any choke. But does rev up when I apply choke most of the time. BUT other times will stumble and not rev up unless I use the choke and throttle together ...like it's telling me, "It's already warmed up and I am making her too rich". Choke giving gas and throttle giving the air. I have had this beast for 20 years and I am rechecking, "what is normal". As no other bike I have ever had from this time period could be started w/o the choke and keep running w/o it for the 1st minute. Heck, once it starts no choke, which is instantly I don't touch anything. It just idles. DID I DO something GOOD or bad during the rebuild? Maybe you all will have to take turns ridng it at Americade? And give me feedback. I do see many replying theirs also can be started like mine. So now it's the vibration issue at the hiway speeds. But this may still be a richness problem. May not be getting the proper mixture when the slides are open. Like I said before, the spark plugs look oddly colored.
  12. jasonm.
    Yes, of course I disconnected the MOD prior to setting the screws. Also, I do remember it always running rough when not fully warmed up. But that could have been simply due to my bad boost sensor. Now she goes like stink no matter how long she warms. I used to always get well over 40mpg(usually 43+) back roads and right at 40 hiway @75mph. I will ride her more and check the mileage. And JUST TO CLARIFY THE POLL question... "no choke needed at all to start or keep it running, even after starting... Just twist the throttle for a split second to start and walk away..." Please everyone, continue to give me more feedback. I need to either sleep well or order parts and disassemble. Americade is almost here.
  13. jasonm.
    First let me say I have been thru many types of carbs. This spring while getting my '87 on the road after 2 years of working on the engine I misdiagnosed a carb issue ...which was actually the boost sensor leaking. Also, I should have known better since the carbs had been drain dry 2 years ago. BUT now I have rebuilt the carbs. Using the "Gunk" bucket for all internal jets and housings. Which infact the carbs were quite spotless from the beginning. HERE'S the ODD thing(s). (1) I can do a 1st morning start with NO CHOKE just by twisting the throttle on a 70 degree day. And it will idle at 600 and slowly warms to the standard 950 or so. Not needing the choke at all. I could never do this prior to my carb work. CAN ANYONE ELSE DO THIS??? If I want, it will start w/half choke and rev to 2500 or so. I did set the low speed jets(w/digital tach) and the bike will idle forever and not load up. I do have new slide assys that I install 8k ago.. On the highway it not as smooth at my usual cruising speed of 72mph as I remember. I have removed my Jason-MOD so I could get an honest reading of the spark plugs. I removed the spark plugs after a good long ride,to check them. Oddly there are 2 colors on each...like a zebra. Light on one side and dark brown on the other side. Carbs are sync'd at idle and 3000rpm. My mileage on my 1st 2 tanks have been 41 back roads(tank 1) and 37.5 mostly highway(tank 2), but faster than 70mph. I used to get 40mpg all the time. I will say the bike pulls w/o any hesitation no matter what the temp. guage reads. So could she be too rich above idle? Floats are set to spec-16mm below middle mark. Checked both on(by shimming the center stand for perfect level) and off the bike.Lastly, when I did the rebuild I did not replace the o-rings(looked good under the magnifine glass) and rubber plugs. I think now:think: maybe I should have...ugh! Wish I had an EGA machine. Nearest dealer with one is 35 miles away. AND making an appointment is not easy. I don't leave my bike at the dealer. I would really like it if you guys could please give me your input before I order $80 in parts and yank the carbs. PS, trying to get this done by end of this month. Americade is almost here...
  14. jasonm.
    Well, I did remove the impellar cover. Sound still there. So I have finally reoved the pump. Checked the bearing which was new 250 miles ago. Now I have reassembled and will live with as best as I can describe...the odd tick-tock sound... Yes it's simalar to the clutch basket sound but that's not it. Pullling in the clutch does not affect the pitch or loudness. Sync'd carbs. Idles like a swiss watch. But I have come accross another oddity since my carb rebuild. Look for another thread on this...Thanks
  15. jasonm.
    There is a sealer test that only the Yamabond/three bond can pass. Take a small bit(dime size) of any sealer. Place it on any small clean piece of metal. Let it set for the standard 24 hours. Then submerg it in motor oil or WD40 for a day or 2. You will find most all RTV's will release their grip when in WD40 in minutes and a day or so when in oil. Yamabond will not lose grip. There is one thing many do not know about Yamabond. It sets up after a few heat cycles of the engine. Thus retorquing is recommended when using it on a gasket.
  16. jasonm.
    the only good thing that comes to mind regarding the GL is the fact that it is NOT top heavy. Thus, there is a bit more time to be had before the "tip over...crap I can't hold it" happens. And when the GL does tip over the engine guards really hold it up. FYI my brother has an '86 GL...Because of the repairs he has had to make at the dealer and the repairs I've done, I know quite a bit. .
  17. jasonm.
    50 views and no replies...? Did I say something wrong? no one has input? Right now I have my coolant drained. I pulled the impellar cover. Impellar not touching the housing- good. I am still debating pulling the pump off.
  18. jasonm.
    Craig, I have heard about the "Geo Metro" poor man alternator fix. But that of course is just one issue. There are many other electrical issues that I could go into. But my fingers are too tired to go further.
  19. jasonm.
    if it easily revs to 9000....then it surely has Vmax cams and valve springs. Jealous me...
  20. jasonm.
    Very interesting, my right rear(#3) also needed more CCW turns to get it on the money. I set mine using a digital tach, watching for changes as I adjust. #3 took about 4 turns. My other carbs only needed 2.5 to 3 turns.
  21. jasonm.
    Vboost...where is it hidden? It must not have the air box. Does it have K&N's ? At least that's what I used to believe.
  22. jasonm.
    GL1200...stator replacement cost $2000 because the engine must be removed...only $300 is parts. They are a pain to work on. Another ex...GL1200 water pump has more gaskets and o-rings than you can imagine. I hate working on GoldWings. Give me a Venture anytime.
  23. jasonm.
    19mm bolt..I think you mean the flywheel bolt@crankshaft. You have to hold the flywheel w/ a large open endend wrench to remove it. Mine came out easy when I replaced my starter clutch gear. The clutch w/3 staked bolts I do not recommend removing unless it's cracked. The rollers, springs and gear as shown in the Yamaha web site are the items that wear. If you are using a breaker bar or long torque wrench. Flywheel bolt does come out.
  24. jasonm.
    Most important thing is to clean the case, wires and grommet. I found Advance Auto's Wearever brake cleaner to be very good. NON-chorinated type. So it is safe for most plastics and rubber. I did note that the smell has changed recently when using it. Meaning they may have recently reformulated it.But still works great. I will say the leak you speak of is oil coming out thru the wires. The wires are braided and this acts like a wick...drawing the oil out. Yes, a bad design. Then use Yamabond4. Which is actually a "Threebond" product. Also there is Suzuki silicone. It's used on sealing crankcase halves.It absolutely bonds to rubber grommets and o-rings. It's $20/tube. In this case, you get what you pay for.
  25. jasonm.
    Well, my '87 VR is back on the road. BUT one odd thing. I hear a tick from the water pump. It's almost a knock that sounds like if you took a handle of a screwdriver and tapped it against the engine. Can only hear it when on the right side of the bike. It's not the clutch basket rattle that high mileage units can develope. I used my mechanics stethoscope to confirm that it's most certainly is the water-pump. And pulling the clutch lever does not change the sound.. ALL parts in the pump are new including the impellar but not the plastic gear. As it looked to be fine. Yes, Carbs are sync'd. REMEMBER I have not had this on the road for over 2 years. So my memory of how it should sound is rather foggy. It makes this noise the same , cold or hot. I have an oil pressure gauge on the bike...pressure is fine. The sound is there and varies directly w/engine speed. I suspect it could be the pin for the plastic gear on the impellar shaft rocking due to the Ventures naturally uneven firing. BUT I am grasping at straws here. P.S. First time I did the water pump seals on this bike was 20 years ago. SO this is the second time. I even have the Yamaha tool to drive the mechanical seal in correctly. So I really do everything "by the book" Anyone have a firm possibility of the noise source before I disassemble. Or would I be wasting my time taking it apart again for just a noise. Anyone with a reply who has experienced this and if they fixed it or not would be appreciated ..Oh yes, I do see some other threads with info on this. And since syncing the carbs did not change this noise.....................help...
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