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jasonm.

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Everything posted by jasonm.

  1. jasonm.
    Thanks for this info on the shafts. The one I can get is complete w/swingarm and shaft. I took a quick look at it. The guy said. "take it home and inspect it and let me know"...I did not take it right then. BUT wanted to get a reply from you guys on your thoughts. ALSO, MiCarl said the 2nd gen. rear, ended up placing the his 1st gen rear wheel 1/4" to the left. Which was shown by the axle sticking out a 1/4" to the left more than before. The exact reason I do not know. Almost as if he left out a washer on the axle. Which I dooubt he did. I did check the Yamaha site and there is a pressed in spacer that has a different part # than the 1st gen 1300. Has anyone other than MiCarl used a 2nd gen rear on a 1st gen...???
  2. jasonm.
    I going to clue you in...You need to find a dyno person with an EGA and a variable load dyno. For $100 usually they will eliminate the guessing. If you have not already. Go the Yamaha site and compare jet sizes from VMAX and you Venture engine. http://www.yamaha-motor.com/sport/myyamaha/prompt/L3Nwb3J0L3BhcnRzL2hvbWUuYXNweA==/Parts%20Catalog/starthere.aspx One trip on the dyno will tell you if it's rich or lean and where. If it EGAs good at full pull 13:1 but is lean in the middle then it's strictly a needle adjustment..etc. BUT you MUST have the adapters to do this properly. Are you running Vboost too?
  3. jasonm.
    Correct me if I am wrong. ..But I believe you can put a 1300 1st gen rear drive unit on a 1200. So, IF YOU had a 1300 1st gen. and had a chance on buying low mileage 1200 rear w/shaft and swing arm complete at a really cheap price , that you personally inspected . Would you buy it for your aging 1300 to keep as a spare???
  4. jasonm.
    WHo told you to run 10w40 ???? Damn, run a 20w50 or 15w50. The manual says 20w40. But you cannot find that stuff easily. The w50 mean it handles the hot weather temps better. I believe there is a 15w40 around for truckers. But seriously I would only use that in cooler temps.
  5. jasonm.
    I am not disagreeing with you for a used seal that has been on the shaft for years. Have you replaced this seal? But the NEW seal will not just slide in STRAIGHT, it's new. I guess a bit of grease your way is good. But you should see the rust ring in the "socket" from my seal being in the same cocked position for 17 years. I can post a pic if you like? Why the rust is there?...could be when I did the removal and inspection then...a drop of sweat got in there. I remember it clearly, Hot day. I hope the new seal , which they updated the part# will be broad enough to insure no leakage.
  6. jasonm.
    Maybe I am not clear. The shaft was removed from the drive unit(pumpkin). I know the old seal is easy to put in. I am replacing the seal. A NEW seal needs to pushed in. Q: how far? Yes the washer just in front of the seal will help. But my original was cocked. And this is not best.
  7. jasonm.
    Ahh, but that may not insure the seal is properly placed in the spline socket, depth wise. As it takes some force to put it in evenly...I just need to know if anyone have witnessed how deept their's sits or if they replaced their's. Again, prior to disassembly, mine was a quite a bit angled(cocked), due to what I do not know other than poor assembly.
  8. jasonm.
    Yes, there is a difference.I may have some 1200 slides. One appears to have a good diaphragm. I had this 1983 bike less than a year. Crashed it and I believe I removed the new(1987) good slide diaphragm assy. before the insurance wrecker took it away. PM me if you are interested.
  9. jasonm.
    Well is was not difficult to get the seal off with dremel cutting wheel. But it was a precise job to do. My seal is on order. Now I am trying to figure out. Once the seal is on the shaft. Then you place the drive shaft in the spline coupler. NOTING:This seal is the only thing keeping the drive shaft from falling out when you remove the whole drive(pumpkin). The orignal was crooked, but not leaking. There is a good 1 inch area this can sit. SO, How far do you push the seal down into the coupler? half way, all the way or just place it at the end?
  10. jasonm.
    Replacing engine parts will not fix this. No, the parts will not wear out. You need to get a true tune up with and EGA machine. Again, it could also be the clutch making this noise too. The clutch has a "lower" toned rattle than the water pump gear. But either way a tune up is needed.But you say this Lancaster place serviced it. Just wonder how much service? And do they have an EGA. EGAs were common at all Yamaha dealers in the 80's. But now they don't seem to have them. But by me, the Dyno places that power tune the sport bikes , most all have EGA capability. And that's how mine was done. BUT they have to connect to the exhaust ports. Located on each header pipe. Look for a 10 mm head bolt on the underside of the front pipes and in the rear cylinders just a few inches down the head pipes. Use a 6 point socket to remove and use never sieze when putting the bolts back in. The adapters needed are the same as carb sync adapters for Kawi's 5mm thread. Mine was set to ~ 1.5% CO which was about 13.5 : 1 air / fuel ratio at idle. It took a $15k dyno system to do this. So check around. Expect to pay $50 to $100.
  11. jasonm.
    How loud is it? Mine could be heard after warm up more easily than cold. The knock was simply the water pump gear rocking on the pin it sits on. From the right side of the engine easily heard. But standing on the left ...hardly. Clutch baskets on these also make a mild knocking. Same side as water puump. Noise due to uneven idle. Nothing to worry about. A perfect tune up on an EGA could cure this. DO NOT go to anyone that does not have an EGA machine(exhaust gas anylizer aka CO machine). Don't waste your money on a noise...98% of the shops and mechanics have not a clue because they are trying to do things AS FAST AS possible. ANd only know what they have seen or heard. I have been thru most everything in the last 20+ years with mine. ANd found out things others were not aware of. And there are others out there like me...Many of them here.
  12. jasonm.
    Don't touch the water pump unless the seals leak at the weep hole @6 o'clock. And with clean carbs, the low speed screws like it somewhere around 2 turns CCW +/- a half turn.
  13. jasonm.
    Yes, 4000= 72mph on the speedo. Mine has so much torque and is tuned so good ...I am able to run 2500 in 5th and it just motors away in 5th when needed when riding solo. 5th is NOT an overdrive. If it feels like one...yours needs a tune up.
  14. jasonm.
    you are lucky you had any power to the rear wheel....
  15. jasonm.
    I will order one in the morning. Meanwhile I have other Yamaha shafts in my garage..Maybe one is the right spec. even though Yamaha's web site say the #'s are not the same part#
  16. jasonm.
    see the collar. I believe that is part of the seal. It is significantly wider than the shaft. Thus holding the seal in place. I do know they updated -changed the part #.
  17. jasonm.
    The reason I believed that collar in the pic closest to the splines is part of the seal. It has black paint on it. I know they do not paint any part of the drive shaft. And I can clearly see where the collar stops at the splines. I will post a better pic later today.
  18. jasonm.
    center stand Always...then the numbers mean something.
  19. jasonm.
    On the shaft, was the area under the band rusted? If yes, how bad? and did the new seal have enough thickness and tension to easily seal? Seems any steel in contact with rubber long enough gets a bit of rust. I show in #1 pic , the seal "unrolled". That is a full stripe of rust closest to the seal at the collar Even though that it is the side facing the oil. The seal was sort of folded onto itself. And bonded to the collar and rusted. Any input is helpful.
  20. jasonm.
    This exact thing happened to me. If your carbs are sync'd. Then you have a cylinder or two running much richer than the others. ME, my chioke plungers were leaking. And made the idle uneven. All along I thought she was tuned great. I fixed this and EGA'd the bike...now it's the smoothest ever been in the last 20 years. To check choke plungers you need a good digital tach. After the choke is off but still not fully warmed up. And one by one press on the plungers and read for changes in the tach. Plungers have rubber seals and can go bad. Or the aluminum they seat against gets pitted. The play in the water pump gear is quite noticable. when things are not smoothest. That and the clutch basket.
  21. jasonm.
    Since I have my wheel off waiting for a tire. I decided to seperate the shaft from the drive to inspect "stuff" aka pinion nut. Pinion nut = good. I did this 15 years ago. Wow, how have things changed. NOW, the seal I believe needs to be replaced. Basically there is a rust ring left by the rubber seal where it mates to the drive. Plus the original seal was never sitting straight. So the rust ring is not even. Basicallly the seal is "tipped". And a new seal would likely be better than the original. Here's the kicker...this ain't no average seal. It appears to be on the shaft with a VERY tight metal collar. I suspect if I do get this seal off there will be rust under the collar. Anyone ever change this seal? HELP See pics...
  22. jasonm.
    I have my wheel off...waiting for a tire. I pulled the shaft drive assy. out on my '87VR. I am debating on yanking the shaft from the drive. Thus waisting the damn $15 seal, just to check the nut on mine. Was noise the only reason you checked for the nut.?AND could you wiggle the "splined coupler"? Note: my coupler seems fine.
  23. jasonm.
    OH, now I see the "drop down" for "SIZES"....thank you.
  24. jasonm.
    Looking into the manual. I see if that nut assy.breaks. The "splined" area that holds the shaft will or could wobble. Did you find or notice this? I gather this would be the source of some noise also.
  25. jasonm.
    On the Michelin site. For the Commander,I did not see a 120/90-18 for our front tire ...
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