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jasonm.

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Everything posted by jasonm.

  1. jasonm.
    My '87VR...One AVon Elan rear I got around 20k miles out of...That was the old Elan. Now my VenomX only got 10k. They told me , "IT'S the same tire different tread pattern". Both had 47psi in them. I think they changed something and did not tell me...? Does anyone know the Max. PSI for a Commander? Is it like a Dunlop...44psi. Avons are 50psi. call me Curious:confused07: ANd those curious about wobbles....high speed it's worn head bearing. Low speed...new or old bearings, it's there to some degree. Especially no hand and hit a good BUMP! Not something you practice. Worn bearings act like a pendulum(low spot). I replaced my bearings last year. BEST thing I did in the last 20 years.
  2. jasonm.
    There a 2 projections on the stock shim. One is pointed. THAT one goes into a tiny hole in the slide. So that does not apply. The tab that is slightly raised, is sort of square. It is design to angle the needle in the needle jet. WHY you ask? It's to confine wear to one side and/or help resist gravity pulling the needle to the "down side" all the time. In any case...there is a reason. May not be clear to us all. But it's there. After having this bike 20+ years and taking the carbs apart MANY times for MODs rebuilds and such...I know what's what. ANy bucking or surging...is not good.aka too lean. I use a combination of #6 stainless and #6 nylon plastic shims.The thicknesses can vary. The plastics varied from 1.6mm to 1.75mm. The SS shims .7mm to .9 mm. So walking into the hardware store with a micromenter or ditital caliper helps a lot. I only needed one of each per carb. Take your time. Do it in steps and have a good measuring tool. ALSO, adjusting the low speed screw HARDLY affects mileage or any running much above 1800rpm. That screw is something you can see when the carbs are removed. It's only one tiny little hole FOR IDLE. ANd the screw fits into it. But up stream there are 3 more holes grouped together. Those are your TRUE low speed OPERATION holes above 1/8 or 1/16 throttle.
  3. jasonm.
    The anti-dive is just a solenoid...aka electromechanical switch. They really don't draw much miore than 1 amp. Your tail brakes light draw much more. But I have my anti-dive on a switch. Only use it on the interstates.
  4. jasonm.
    you say .112" was original. But my original was .122 including that tab the make the whole thing "cocked". Using all the proper measuring tools. I droped Mine just approx. .020 = approx.100" and does not studder or bawk. I was getting 36 or 37 hiway mpg before. I suspect I will gain 2 mpg on the hiway. I had it EGA'd during this MOD. And anything more than .020 drop was too lean. The EGA does not lie and took the guess work out of this process....FYI, the reason for the the "not reving as quickly. You have eliminated excess fuel in the system. A rich system responds faster than a lean one as the throttle is opened. Due to the air instantly making the system closer to the 13 to 1 ideal power ratio. Rather than the possible 12 to 1 you have been running. Mine is running 13.6 :1 most of the time cruising now.
  5. jasonm.
    I have found the meter on the dash reads a bit low(calibration)...from my perspective. The fan draws about 5 amps...brake lights another 4 amps....and hell...you're idling. can you say discharge of battery? Always put the battery on a trickle charger if you can after a run like you had. Also the new AGM sealed batteries are great. I have one that is 8 years old. And it's still great.
  6. jasonm.
    The needles are in the slide/diaphragm assembly. These needles are removable because they are very expensive and the slides are usable on other carbs. I believe they are titanium needles. There are othe posts showing the shimming process. Being the needle jets brass and the needle titanium. The brass gets worn out. You need a hollow torx bit to get one of the slide caps' screws off. Then a standard torx works. There is a tab/bump the makes the stock shim .12" thick. Some have removed the little bump. to make it .100 thick. Some have been able to dremel or sand the BUMP off. ME, I just found the proper shims to make it just about .100". Which was good per the dyno runs. The needle-jets(brass) wear. The needles(titan) don't.THESE ARE THE ONLY needles in you carbs.
  7. jasonm.
    The intercom cable is JUST a mouse PS2 cable minus one pin and a 5 pin din at the other. I have the schematic from Yamaha. I made my own. Using $10 mouse ext. cable and 5 pin connector $3.
  8. jasonm.
    I just checked my tire a bit more careful using an LED flashlight. DATE CODE 2309- FOUND my 1st spider crack @800 miles. SH*T, my previous Venom had 14k and the sidewalls looked like new. Since I have 2 bikes only put 2-3k a year on this bike. These tires will likely be cracked to hell before the tread is half worn. SHOOT ME NOW! Are commanders load rated "C" ? Now, I do not know what to get on the rear? Conti-tour ...Maybe???
  9. jasonm.
    You have to have a GOOD digital tach. Norhthern Tools sells one for about $40. TO TEST-for the issue...shortly after start up...say a minute or 2. Your bike should idle NO CHOKE. Then CHOKE OFF, one by one you press down with your finger firmly on the choke plunger. If the tach shows an idle change of more than 10 or 20rpm or more. Your choke is leaking. Cold idle shows this most clearly.You must remove the carbs to address the choke plunger conditon. It can be somewhat repaired...depending on the cause. My bike is tuned so well. I can start it cold with a little choke and turn it off choke in less than 1 minute , it will idle smooth but slow. Others say they can do this too. But MOST are just rich at idle and that's how they are capable of doing it. Mine is EGA's at 13.7 : 1 air/fuel. Prior to this is was 12.5 :1 or worse on some of the cylinders. 13:1 give best power. But closer to 14:1 gives economy with more than enough power. So you split the difference. 13.7:1 is close to 2% CO. And 1.5 to 2% CO is what the Venture likes. I used to work in a shop in the 80's. Let me know if yours passess the above test...In my case both the choke plungers were leaking and a float and float needle issue accured.
  10. jasonm.
    Syncing the carbs should be listed separate. BUT the idle sync will not change much by replacing diaphragm slides. Sync is the amount of vacuum when the throttle are closed. BUT a good mechanic should ALWAYS be checked at partial openings from 2000 to 4000rpm. I had recent carb issues. Here is what I found in my case and many disassemblies. One bad float needle for sure , but changed 2 . Bad float...getting soft when submerged in gas. To check, you must fully submerge for 2-5 hours min. and check for SOFT spots. I also found all of the choke plungers were closing but some where NOT sealing. The aluminum body of the choke can get pitted or the plungers rubber seals can just be worn out. FYI, we 1st gens are all running on worn needle jets. Shimming the needles helps during real "normal" running. BUT having these worn needle jets will always cause richness on hard acceleration...depending on how far you twist the throttle. The true cure to get back the "NEW bike" mileage at all throttle openings, is replacement of the needle jets. Which is quite involved. So shimming is the next best thing. Now that I had my bike EGA'd on the $15k variable load dyno. It's running very good. 44+ mpg on the back roads and yet to be checked on the hiway. I think 40mpg is now possible at my usual 70+mph rides. It was an eye opening experience doing this tuning. Which I did all the labor. The Dyno guy just twisted the throttle and played with the computer for load and other bits. FYI- the low speed screws can be anywhere from 1.5 to 2.5 turns out. Every carb and bike is different. I was told K&N sells less expensive needle jets that will work, compared to the Yamaha dealer. Once I got it tuned,this helped me figure out. I have a bad coil or 2. ANYONE have some spare good coils? To be a perfectionist...I may replace all my needle jets....next year:mo money:.
  11. jasonm.
    Well, I heard there was a cracking issue. Question: has anyone determined if it happens more on the 2nd gen or 1st gen size tires? Looking at the link. I noticed more 2008 date codes with issues than others. I have Avons on my other bike as well...Roadriders.This corresponds to my Roadrider front issues. The front did develop minor cracks. But I had it warranteed before the cracks became an issue. They sent my local shop a tire that was just 6 weeks old, DOT code mid -2009. I think they had a bad run of rubber moulding in 2008. NOW on the Venture-May 2010, I replaced my VenomX @ 15k, 9 year old front , due to fear of the rubber getting old(tread cracking) and not giving good braking and safe handling. ...It had at least 5k left on it. I think now...I should have left it on the bike. Now the 5 year old rear VenomX with ONLY 10k needs to be replaced. The sidewalls of both look like new. I always check pressure at least every 2 weeks...even when not riding.43 front, 47 rear on my '87VR. New VenomX tire, I only have about 800 miles on the front with a date code- mid 2009. Looks good...so far. Sounds like I could be in for issues on the VenomX. Hope I am lucky enough not to deal with this. SO, I will hold out as long as possible on getting a rear Venom tire. PS- I have 2 bikes , thus the only 2k a year mileage on the 87VR although I did do 3500 last year. Also, this is not likely a design defect. UNLESS they have significantly changed the construction process or overall design that I am not aware of. Remember The VenomX has been around approx. 10 years. Only now are we seeing this issue in a high quantity.
  12. jasonm.
    Dunlops biased plys touring tires are used a lot. So there is no exuse for a 3 year old tire on your bike unless they were dirt cheap. I can get any Dunlop for 25% less than an Avon. But I do not run Dunlops. I won't get into my reasoning here. So I am sure that these are old stock the dealer had sitting around. You got stuck with a 3 year old tire 2 times. My guy orders them for me when I need them. The oldest tire he had ever gottin me was 10 months old.
  13. jasonm.
    Thank you, I have both a digital caliper and old school "C"style caliper to measure shim thickness. If the weather stays good here. Any changes I make will be in small steps. To start at .100" = to "no nubb" on the stock shim , using shims I purchase. I hope have this sorted out by Saturday.
  14. jasonm.
    It could be a bad coil or coils under the battery. They do crack. I am going to replace mine. I am sure one of them is bad on mine. When really hot sitting still. It sometimes misses. And my carbs have been checked out good on an EGA.
  15. jasonm.
    I PUT IN WORN OUT NEEDLE JETS FROM THE SPARE CARBS>>>>DUMB ME! And may have to change them jets back to originals. Remove carbs, bowls, jet blocks and replace needle jets, gaskets , o-rings....aka...tear down. If you have never done it...you would not know. NOT FUN doing it over again. I am venting ...,It sucks being me... I'll just sit in the corner and cry now. Did I mention I have Venture motorcycle OCD....thanks...
  16. jasonm.
    this is why I may need this mod.Look at my last post on this thread ... http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=49478&highlight=shim&page=2
  17. jasonm.
    Since I got my bike's idle set on the EGA machine. #3 still is darker than the other plugs . Yes, new plugs put in. Then I remembered I used the needle jets from the spare carbs on #3 & #4. Then shortly after this latest darkness of spark plug #3 issue came up. CRAP! now I will likely need the shim MOD on 3 & 4 or tear the carbs down again to replace the needle jets w/originals. Seems the spare had more miles than I figured. As I am not into taking the carbs out and apart for the 3rd time in 2 months. I am going to get it "dyno-tuned" this Saturday. And see if it's too rich under load on #3 and maybe #4. Shim it if I have to. There is not enough space on this page for the the 4 letter words I keep screaming. I am so angry with myself...
  18. jasonm.
    It looks like I have a failing coil or 2 when she gets wick'ed hot. Since I got my carbs set using an EGA. And following the manual tests, I know now that's all it can be. I have had the fairing apart 2 times. And know it's fastening points pretty well. I will try a short cut. Leaving the painted side pieces in place and somehow loosening up the inner black pieces and hope to get to the 4 bolts holding the tray...and get them out...somehow. The battery box and air box removal just does not cut it from my view point.
  19. jasonm.
    what size washers are recommended to start? #4 or #6? Does #4 fit over the needle? #6 stainless and nylon are easy to find. But #4 not so... AND how much is a good start to drop it? The factory washer is 2.5mm thick. I can get nylon #6 washers in 1.7mm. Is this a good start? Please reply.
  20. jasonm.
    what size washers are recommended to start? #4 or #6? Does #4 fit over the needle? #6 stainless and nylon are easy to find. But #4 not so... AND how much is a good start to drop it? The factory washer is 2.5mm thick. I can get nylon #6 washers in 1.7mm. Is this a good start? Please reply.
  21. jasonm.
    the overflow consist sof a simple pipe on the bowl. NO internal tube. And it only works when the bowl is totally full. The fuel dumps on top of the rear shock. This design is problematic, as it can allow for a very high float level and you will never know it.
  22. jasonm.
  23. jasonm.
    LISTEN UP....IT'S the DAMN safety switch on the kick stand!!!! Happened to me 20 years ago and by-passed it since. Never happened again. Always try the simplest thing 1st. There a 3 wires coming up the left side frame by your leg from the stand, blue/yel, green and black. You need to cross the blue/yell to black. DO NOT cut thru the wires. Just make a jumper.If you cannot solder a jumper, A scotch lock can work . This will preserve the side stand warning light but not kill the engine.
  24. jasonm.
    usually brush types on 'cycles only have 2 brushes. Simply if you have an 3 wire internal engine stator it should work. And it will work on the 535. As your 535 has the same electrics as my old 550.
  25. jasonm.
    I may need a coil. Originally I thought you had to remove the fairing completely.And I tried a short cut by removing the battery box and getting to the phillips coil mount screws w/#3 tip in a 1/4" drive socket just. It worked on one screw. But not the others. Now, if what you say is true about getting the coil tray out(4 bolts) after removing mainly the air and battery boxs...makes me feel I can do it if I have to. Tell me you are not kidding. Oh, and what exactly is there to gain by relocating the TCI. Other than when it's bad it's easier to change.
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