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V7Goose
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Everything posted by V7Goose
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Cracks on the intake manifolds are very common, but I don't remember hearing of any that truly proved bad. Like others have said, spray carb cleaner or WD-40 all over the manifolds while the bike is running - if there is a vacuum leak, the engine WILL detect it! Goose
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It won't hurt a thing to disable the carb heaters, but I'll tell you right now that ain't your problem. I don't know what it is, but no way it's that - the carb heaters cannot be on unless the temps are low enough AND the bike is in gear. And even in cold weather, they don't stay on for more than about 30 minutes unless the temps are below 40! Even if there is a problem with the bike that somehow bypasses either the neutral switch or the thermo switch, the chance is about zero that there is a problem with both! Goose
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Full Face Helmet (flip front) - 100% of the time Boots - 98% Leather Chaps or Leather Pants - 100% Leather Jacket - 50%, Armored Joe Rocket Jacket - 50% (when too hot for leather) Leather Gloves - 100% I would absolutely love to have the freedom to just go out and and throw a leg over the the bike and ride off with nothing more than shorts and a t-shirt; that would often be much more comfortable and quicker, but I ain't that stupid. I love to ride, but I'm not a big fan of bleeding. Goose
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There should be no reason to drain the carbs unless you are fighting a stuck float (if you were, there would be gas running down the inside of one of the front lower cowlings). Your bike has a fuel filter, so that should keep contaminates of any size that can cause problems out of the carbs. But if you want to check it anyway, get a length of plastic tubing that will fit on the nipple sticking down from the bowl and put it in a clean glass jar before you open the drain screw. The gas drained into the jar should have absolutely no visible particles or dirt in it. The plug caps just have a sheet metal screw inside them that screws down into the stranded copper wire core (while the caps can be removed from the wires, the wires cannot be removed from the coils). To remove the cap, just take the plug cap off of the spark plug, hold the wire close to the plug cap, and unscrew the cap like you were opening a water faucet. Now use an ohm meter and check the resistance between that sheet metal screw and the contact inside the cap that clips onto the spark plug. I think the resistance should be somewhere around 10K ohms. The exact resistance is not too important, but if one of them is significantly higher than the others, it will need to be fixed or replaced. High resistance will cause a slight misfire that is hard to detect without an exhaust gas analyzer, but it can significantly impact fuel mileage. Goose
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Unscrew your plug caps from the wires and measure the resistance. They should all be roughly the same. I do not remember the actual resistance spec off hand, but it is documented in older threads here as well as the shop manual. Goose
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Premium fuel is a total waste of money if your engine is not pinging. If you know the chemistry about octane ratings, you know it is impossible for any engine to run smoother or have better fuel mileage from higher octane, but there are always people who insist on arguing with that. The one FACT here is that the manufacturer specifies regular fuel for this engine. Your floats are set too high - that is the cause of the fuel smell. It is also possible that a float valve is not fully seating, but that is unlikely. I know for a fact that all these carbs have the floats set WAY too high from the factory, and setting them properly almost always stops that smell. Both of these subjects are discussed is great detail in many older posts. Goose
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As many old timers here know, I have done a lot of tire testing on the RSV, and I have been a long time advocate of the Avon Venom. Last year I decided to try a Dunlop E3 after seeing a number of reports of almost unbelievable rear tire life with them. I have not yet replaced that first E3, but it is about due, so I think I can give a fair assessment. The REAR E3 did last a bit longer for me than all my Avons - I have 17,000 miles on it right now, and I think I could go another thousand safely, compared to a maximum 14,000 on the Avon. In a strange contrast, however, the front E3 is wearing much faster than the Avon front tires do - I normally wear out two Avon rear tires for one front, but this E3 front is barely going to outlast the rear. I do not understand this, since there is no abnormal wear pattern on the front, but there is no doubt it is wearing very fast. The handling of the E3s are good, both wet and dry, but not as good as the Venoms, and the difference is more pronounced at the end of the tire life than when both brands are new. In addition to the slightly worse handling, the rear tire is cupping a bit, something that no Venom has ever done on my bike. But at 80,000 miles, I cannot swear that there might not be some other wear issue on the bike causing the cupping - nothing seems wrong, so I won't know until I get to run another Venom. The E3s do make some road noise in curves - not bad, but certainly more than the Venoms ever did. Bottom line for me is that both tires are good, but if price is no object, I'd run the Venoms. Goose
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Good question - guess I should have added more info. That post was a year ago, and I don't have a clue what it might have been. Goose
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The various pieces of the choke activating mechanism are all very soft metal, and it is is easy to bend them. Even slight bends will bind up. Try disconnecting the cross-over rod so you can move just one side at a time to try to find out where the problem is. Goose
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Yeah, I saw it was all straightened out. The problem was that I responded to the thread when it only showed two responses - I guess I hadn't refreshed the screen since the night before. Oh well, I tried . . . Goose
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Thank you !!!! V7goose
V7Goose replied to archeryguy's topic in Royal Star and Royal Star Tour Deluxe Tech Talk
You are very welcome; I was glad to help you out. Hope you made it home OK - that snow and ice we had Saturday night and all day Sunday was a lot worse than what we were expecting, so I imagine it wasn't too nice riding north! Besides being safe, I hope you like the way that thing handles now - we sure made some significant changes. I look forward to seeing you again, and getting to do some riding with you this time. Goose -
Well, you might think about taking the key out of the ignition and using it? In all seriousness, I'll assume you have had the ignition replaced, so that key is different. But now that you have a key problems, just remove one of the other locks and take it with the ignition key to a locksmith and have them re-key the lock. Assuming that works, then take the other two locks in and have them done the same way. Goose
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I gues I'm just dense, but I fail to understand why you would care about the mod at all?? Think about it - without the mod, you can't fully fill the tank, even if you want to (at least not without LOTS of parting around). With the mod, you personally get the choice how full you want to fill it. It takes no effort at all to stop filling the tank at the bottom of the filler neck (where you would have been forced to stop filling before the mod), so if you over fill it, you do so by choice. This would be particularly appropriate if you were on the road in the middle of the day and specifically wanted to get as far as you could on the next tank of gas. But the point here is that you have a choice. And even with the vent holes, it still bubbles and chokes as it gets to the bottom of the filler neck, so it is not particularly easy to accidentally overfill the tank, you must want to do it. Why would you be upset in giving yourself that choice? Like I said, I'm dense . . . Goose
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The seems pretty unlikely, but lots of things are possible. Heck, I suppose a mouse leg bone could block a valve! A leakdown test on that cylinder would show you pretty fast if the problem was either the intake or exhaust valve, but since I doubt you have one of those tools, you might as well start by checking the clearances on the valves. One too tight could be holding the valve open (depending on just how tight it is) and causing the problem - easy to fix and check quickly. One way too loose could indicate something is stuck in the valve and holding it open. At that point you can think about inspection cameras or whatever else might help to find and extract the item. If you do think something is in there, probably the easiest first step is to just remove the carb and exhaust header and try to inspect the valve with a tiny mirror. Goose
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One more suggestion for you - at a sustained easy speed on level ground, that bike should not vibrate as you describe, even if the carbs are out of sync. Engine vibration only comes on if the engine is trying to pull a load and one or more jugs are not working as hard as the others. I'm now wondering if your problem is an out-of-balance tire or defective tire? Often a tire out of balance will vibrate/bounce worse at increasing speeds, but not always; sometimes you can have a particular speed where it is worse and then have it smooth out again. You might want to check the tires out carefully. Hope you get it figured out, Goose
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Tires are one of the most personal choices, and there is often little real fact or experience that leads one to develop a strong opinion for or against a brand. Avons are most definitely still on the very top of my DO BUY list. I have been testing Dunlop E3s, and they are good, but not as good as the Avons. The E3 rear lasts a little longer, but the front only lasts half as long as an Avon. The Avons handle better and are quieter. You say you are riding on Metzelers, and I would most certainly quit riding forever if that was the tire I had to use. Aren't individual choices grand? Goose
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I'm not trying to get into a pissing contest over this point, but I find this VERY misleading for new owners. In my experience, anything but very mild acceleration when running less than 3,000 RPM will absolutely produce a lot of vibration and hammering as the engine lugs until the RPMs finally reach an acceptable level. The bike will run very smoothly at a sustained 40 MPH in 5th gear (and even better at 50), and you can even slowly accelerate from there without vibration, but if you try and twist the throttle too much, it will definitely vibrate until you finally get up to an appropriate speed for how much gas you are trying to give it. If somebody here thinks they have one that won't vibrate when they open the throttle below 65 in 5th gear, then I am very happy for them, but other owners should not expect that. Goose
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This has been said already, but I'll try to pull it all together. This bike will run very smoothly in 5th all the way down to 45, PROVIDED: The carbs are in sync You do not try to accelerate faster than a '65 Datsun with 300K on the clock For anything other than very mild acceleration, you must have this engine over 3,000 RPM, which happens to be about an indicated 70 in 5th gear. This engine doesn't have much low-end grunt, but it has PLENTY of power if you keep the revs up. If you ride it like a V twin, it is a dog. To learn what it can do and get an idea how it should be ridden when you want that performance, you need to hit the rev limiter a couple of times - that kicks in at 6,500 RPM. On your next on-ramp, nail it in second and hold that throttle wide open 'till you feel the engine falter (it won't take long), then do that again in third. But unless unless you know the cops are far away you'll have to back down long before the rev limiter stops you, since it doesn't hit in third gear until 96 MPH. Now that you know how sweet that mill is, just enjoy the ride! Goose
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Gee, my 6 gallon tank holds a full 6 gallons - what's wrong with yours, gotta big dent in the tank or something? And the reality on the RSV is you have 1.5 gallons left when the light comes on, despite what the owner's manual says. Goose
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No doubt in my mind that the issue is a valve. Other folks have already explained why. Probably just one too tight and not fully closing. Check the valves, if one is too tight, shim it correctly and re-check the compression - it will probably be fixed. If there is still low compression, you need to pull that head and have a valve job done. Goose
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I would avoid drilling, even with a left hand bit, until all other options have failed. Although it can work, it is also fairly easy to drill off-center and bugger up the threads in the frame. Easiest option one is to hammer in a torx bit as suggested above. Next easiest option two is to cut a slot on the head, also as mentioned above, and try to turn it out with a big common screwdriver. Third easiest option is to use an over-the-head bolt remover. These look a bit like sockets, but they have sharp edges that bite into the rounded corners of a buggered up bolt head. They may not work for a completely round bolt like this, but if you get one the perfect size you might be able to hammer it over the bolt head and have the ridges cut into the outside enough to bite. Another possible option is to distort the bolt head enough by crushing it in a couple of places with BIG vice grips to give the remover some corners to bite into. Last option I can think of before drilling is to try a stud remover - I have no idea if they will grip something that short, but still worth looking at before you break out the drill. Options 1 or 2 really should work - good luck! Goose
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It is designed to be used in CIGARETTE LIGHTER sockets. Lighters pull a lot of current, so they have bigger wires and fuses. Our socket looks like a lighter socket, but it ain't (didn't come with a lighter); it is only intended for small accessories. Technically, this statement is correct - but I will be really blown away if you actually find that it is working on a real 5A fuse. All of those pumps I have seen are rated higher than that, and I have seen lots of RSV owners who popped their fuse when trying to use that front socket (it generally only holds for about 10 seconds under the load from one of those compressors). No, that is incorrect. Any motor will pull maximum current at start, then settle to a lower pull unless something tries to slow it down. The problem is that at any fixed rate of current, heat will be generated in the wires. Ever noticed how warm/hot the plug on a vacuum cleaner is after you have been using it for a while? That is the same thing. Vacuums pull a lot of current, but they don't want to put big thick heavy wires on them, so they use the smallest that is safe. The smaller the wire, the more heat. If the wire is big enough to dissipate the generated heat at least as fast as it is being generated, then all will be well. If it is just a little too small, it will take a long time to get hot enough to melt insulation, but if it is way too small, it can cause a fire in a few minutes. A fuse or circuit breaker in any circuit should never be larger than the maximum current that any single wire in the entire circuit can handle continuously. It is fine for wires to be bigger than the fuse, but that doesn't help anything, and you should never assume they are - that is why you NEVER put a bigger fuse in an existing circuit unless you designed it yourself and KNOW it is over-wired. Goose
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All air horns are subject to problems from crud that gets sucked into them - can jam the motor or get stuck in the horn reeds. As already noted above, the Stebel horn has detailed information about how the horn must be mounted and protected for this - even comes with a short tube to route the air intake to a safer point if needed. I do not think the Wolo even mentions it. I have had the Wolo copy of the Stebel on for a long time without problems, but I have had other air horns ruined by this same thing. Goose
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Secondaty Coil Resistance
V7Goose replied to mellco's topic in Royal Star and Royal Star Tour Deluxe Tech Talk
I do not know for sure on your bike, but the book is absolutely wrong for 2nd gen coils - you cannot measure to ground. One of the wires for the primary is common with the secondary. Goose -
Have you checked to make sure nobody replaced that stock 5A fuse with a bigger one? Lots of people do this, and it is REALLY dangerous! Even if you have a larger fuse in there, those stock wires are NOT big enough to handle that kind of load. You are lucky you haven't had a short circuit or fire. Even at only an 8A pull, prolonged use at that level generates a lot of heat in small wires. You may be happy with your setup, but I'd suggest you reconsider what you are doing. Good luck, Goose