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V7Goose
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Everything posted by V7Goose
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Axle clamp bolt - dumb question?
V7Goose replied to Godlover's topic in Royal Star Venture Tech Talk ('99 - '13)
I have absolutely no idea what bike you have, but on the 2nd gens there is an alien-head pinch bolt located just below the axle on the right fork. The torque spec is 13 ft lbs. Goose -
Easiest way to REMEDY an Oil overfill
V7Goose replied to rumboogy's topic in Royal Star Venture Tech Talk ('99 - '13)
Actually, if you have any air bubble at all above the oil level in the sight window (when the bike is held vertical, of course), all should be fine. The "Full" mark is clearly visible near the top of the window on the right (front) side. Goose -
It is hard for me to say if that is normal without actually touching it myself, but something doesn't sound quite right. The reason I say to check the tension on the left side is because the throttle cables and wiring harness run on that side and often cause some tension that prevents the steering from smoothly falling all the way to the right. The tension from the throttle cables is often so much that the throttle will not even snap all the way closed when the forks are held all the way to the right stop! But unless something else is binding the steering, the forks should always fall naturally under their own weight all the way to the stop on the left. If yours does not fall all the way to the stop, that could be caused by bad bearings, too tight adjustment, not enough grease, or something pulling/pushing on the fairing as the forks turn that way. As for frequency of checking the bearings, I strongly recommend that ALL Royal Stars be checked before 10,000 miles, since the initial looseness in these bearings seems to be a chronic problem. After being properly adjusted, I have not had an issue with them getting loose again, but I'd still recommend this simple test be done any time the bike is on a jack, such as at each tire change. Since the front tire always leaves the ground first, the best point to check it is with the front tire just off the ground and the real wheel still down - that way you have less motion from the bike and it is easier to feel slop in the forks. Of course, if you ever think you feel chattering in the handlebars when using moderate to heavy front brake over rough road surface, then that is an indication you have very loose steering bearings and should check them immediately. For me, that chattering is most noticeable just before the stop at a light when the road surface is a little bumpy. Goose
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I cannot say for sure what your problem is, but there just ain't no way it is the washer on the drain bolt! If that was in any way loose enough to allow water to get in, you'd have a hell of an oil mess all over the bootom of the unit, the wheel, and everything else! In fact, you'd have to loose all the oil before anything could get sucked in that way! It never hurts to use fresh washers on any drain bolt, and I'm not about to suggest that you should not do that. But if oil ain't getting out, then nothing else is getting in that way. Personally, I never even think about replacing those washers unless I can see some slight oil misting and dirt around them And I never have. I'd suspect two possibilities - first would be the vent on the top of the unit. I do not know how that vent is actually made (never looked at it), but it is conceivable that it could allow water get sucked in as the unit cools if there was something about how the bike was packed or parked that allowed water to directly fall on the vent. The second thing I'd consider is the thick rubber seal that fits around the base of the drive splines and the o-ring that fits inside the drive hub. Since there is an oil seal for the ring gear and axle shaft, that is the most likely place for a problem. Wouldn't surprise me much of a careless person lost that big rubber seal when changing your tire. I'm just speculating from memory here on where the seals are and if they might even cause the problem, since I have never had the need to look at them from the aspect of water getting in. I always considered that rubber seal more of a grease gaurd to keep from flinging crap all over the rear wheel, but maybe it has another purpose too? Goose
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First, air compressors must use NON detergent oil because of the high volume of water that condenses out of the compressed air (the same reason you must regularly drain the tank). But I'd be a little concerned about that much oil use! I mean, holy loose-fit, batman, there just ain't no excuse for it to be sucking all that if it was properly filled in the first place. I have been using a Sears twin-cyl compressor since the 1980s, and I sometimes run it a LOT (had to replace the motor on it 15 years ago), and I have NEVER once needed to add oil. Keep a close eye on it and consider returning it for a replacement! Goose
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There is no way to predict how much you will need to turn the ring nuts - it all depends on how loose the bearings are. Just as a rule of thumb, if you need to turn then ring nuts more than the full distance from one slot to the next, your bearings are probably destroyed. If in doubt about the condition of the bearings, I would SLIGHTLY over-tighten the nuts (just so the forks do not smoothly fall all the way to the stop on the left side), then carefully check for any slop in the bearings by pulling straight forward and back on the bottom of the forks. When doing this test, try not to rock the bike on whatever stand or jack you are using, and if you detect even the slightest motion in the steering bearings, they are ruined. This happens a lot when the bike is ridden much with the bearings too loose since they never turn in the race and every bump hammers the rollers in the same spot. Finally, be sure to back off the ring nuts to the correct tightness so that the forks just slightly rebound from the first touch on the steering lock when falling under their own weight to the LEFT side. If this is done correctly, the steering head will only touch the stop one time; if it bounces up and then returns all the way to rest on the stop, the bearings are too loose. Goose
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Both the ring nuts and the top cap nut are normal clockwise threads. You can tap the ring nuts from either side of the steering head, just depending on where you can get the best angle for the current position of the ring nuts. Sometimes the tab washer is in the way on one side, so you need to get to them from the other side. Just a note for anyone who has not seen my comments on this elsewhere - the two ring nuts are locked together with an aluminum tab washer, but that tab washer is NOT keyed to the shaft or locked in place in any way (except for the pressure of the cap nut on the top). Because of this, you do NOT need to pry out the tabs - you will be turning both ring nuts together. Goose
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front wheel removal question
V7Goose replied to Godlover's topic in Royal Star Venture Tech Talk ('99 - '13)
The axle doesn't really need any grease unless it is dry and rusty. Just make sure it slides freely through the bearings and sleeve in the wheel. If you do what to put something on it, any light grease will be fine. Personally, I only use moly grease where it is specifically called for, and I do not use moly60 for anything at all. Goose -
They would be very easy to put back on if the carbs were on the bench, but it would take some trickery to do it on the bike (I'd use a long copper or brass tube flared on the end with the cap hot-glued into it). Because these stock caps are conical and smooth, it would be virtually impossible to get them off without marring them, and I really don't see any purpose in putting them back on. In fact, when my dealer took mine off to set the carb mixtures under warranty way back when, they didn't even bother to put them back. Goose
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Well. the nut shouldn't really be that tough to get off - the torque spec is only 17 ft lbs. But I wouldn't try it without the proper size wrench (27mm or 1 1/16"). If you don't have an open-end that large, then it is pretty simple to remove the handlebars and use a socket. As for the idea several people have mentioned in other threads recently that you need to loosen the pinch bolts on the top trippletree to make this adjustment - I don't buy that. The ring nuts generally need way less than 1/4 turn to tighten up, so the actual vertical movement of the steering head is virtually nil. Not only do I make this adjustment without touching the pinch bolts, I used to do it without even loosening that top cap nut! It doesn't actually lock anything, just presses that thin top cover down on the top ring nut. Since you will be turning the ring nuts together in a direction down and away from the top plate, it is quite possible to do this without bothering that nut too; it just takes a slightly harder tap on the hammer to start the ring nuts moving. Goose
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I made mine from a Wal-mart taxi-driver special. Cost me something like $7. I absolutely love them and do not ride without them, summer or winter. Not only do they add about 1/2" to saddle height (important to me on a bike with saddle height made for midgets), but they also turned the stock saddle from a 600 mile comfort range to 1,500 mile-a-day range with only gas stops for breaks. I let my brother try them, and he hated 'em - but he never was very smart. Goose
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Repacking steering and swingarm bearings
V7Goose replied to aspen60's topic in Royal Star Venture Tech Talk ('99 - '13)
The cap nut under the bars will do nothing to adjust the bearings - at most it simply pushes the steering head cover down on top of the ring nuts to act as a lock. Read the tech library to see how to do this. Goose -
Repacking steering and swingarm bearings
V7Goose replied to aspen60's topic in Royal Star Venture Tech Talk ('99 - '13)
I'd bet a case of beer that your steering head bearings are loose. This is VERY common within 10,000 miles of new on these bikes, and the chattering you feel on front braking is a prime indicator, especially if the road surface was a little rough right there. The official procedure to adjust those bearings is a LOT of work, but there is a shortcut that will let you take care of it in about 10 minutes. See the tech library for the shortcut to sneak under the steering head cover and tap the ring nuts with a screwdriver to tighten them up. Once done, I have not had a problem with them becoming loose again very soon. DO keep them adjusted correctly or you will be forced to tear it down to replace the bearings much sooner than you would like! I cannot give you any personal advice or pointers on the swing arm bearings, as I have not yet tried to check those on my bike (but they are WAY over due at 80,000 miles). Maybe I'll get around to them soon . . . Goose -
Just wanted to comment that although the issue you described is normal, it is not usually a problem. I routinely fill my tank VERY full (see the tech library for the simple procedure to vent the filler neck so this is easy to do), and simply riding it about 5 miles home from the station is enough to prevent the overflow problem. If I am not planning on getting right back on the road, I don't fill the tank much above the bottom of the filler neck, but any other time, I put in everything I can 'cause I'd rather be riding than stopping for gas! Goose
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That is absolutely NOT normal! I have ridden for days in unrelenting frog stranglers on this bike, and I have never had any indication of what you describe. I would take your bike to the dealer and have the problem checked under warranty. Make certain that they include the details in the computer on your trouble ticket, and KEEP a copy in your records as proof you reported it in case you have trouble down the road after the warranty is expired. Goose
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It is not a stuck float - the overflow tubes from the carbs dump gas down the inside of the lower fairings (in front of the air cleaners). The tank vent tube is located with the air plenum drains and the coolant overflow tube under the bike near the tip of the kickstand. If the tank is too full and allowed to sit in the sun, you will get the excess gas dumped out of the tank vent. The same thing can happen just from engine heat if the tank is filled too full and parked immediately afterward - even in the shade. Goose
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I do not believe the use of the snap is in anyway near as important as the orientation of the snap, but I could be wrong. Perhaps we should conduct a detailed comparison test? Maybe I'll do that, right after I work up the energy and gumption to reach down and move my petcock. But if that answer is important, I wouldn't wait on me to overcome my inherent laziness to actually conduct the test - it could be quite a while! I do think it was wise of you to turn the kit over, just in case . . . Goose
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Well, maybe if you turn your tool kit over so it is stored with the snap side down, it will solve your problem. I know it sounds silly, but that has EXACTLY the same affect on your fuel gauge as the petcock position does, so if ya think one changes it, so will the other. Just for any newbies reading this thread - MANY of us choose to never take the petcock off reserve on these bikes, and everything works perfectly. My reasoning is that I have THREE different things to tell me I am getting low on fuel (the fuel gauge, the low fuel warning light, and the F trip meter), so I can't possibly be stupid enough to actually need to be reminded by forcing me to change the petcock too! After all, I been driving cars and truck for over 40 years with just a fuel gauge, and that seems to work fine all by itself in those vehicles. Ride safe, and may ya always find gas when ya want it! Goose
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RSTD 5.3 gal, RSV 6.0 gal Unless you particularly like the looks of the RSTD (and don't mind a primitive saddle), you will be way better off with the RSV. But there shouldn't be $5,000 difference, even when factoring in the different model year. If I were you I'd look for a used 08 or 09. Whatever you buy, make sure you do a thorough test ride to ensure you are not getting a screamer - this is ESPECIALLY true for a low-mileage used bike, since that may be the primary reason for the sale! Goose
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Help!! Gas shut off valve
V7Goose replied to Godlover's topic in Royal Star Venture Tech Talk ('99 - '13)
This has happened to a few others, although not particularly common. You should be able to just tap it back into place with a hammer (gently), and go about your business. I doubt if it will leak at all, but you really have nothing to lose. If it leaks, you just turn the gas back off and you are right back where you started. Goose -
There really is no way to diagnose this from what you have said. The fuel pump shouldn't make any sounds at all when you first turn the key on if the carbs are already full. The easiest way to actually check the fuel pump is to disconnect the fuel line that runs from the fuel pump to the carburetors and then turn the key on (making sure your KILL SWITCH is in the RUN position. If the fuel pump it working, it will immediately spew gas. When doing this test, you might as well do it by removing the tank and disconnecting the hose fromt he carbs where it connects near the idle adjustment knob - for two reasons: 1. This makes it easy to point the hose away from the bike in case the gas DOES spew. 2. If the pump is actually bad, you can then simply disconnect the fuel line from the top of the fuel filter and move it to the carburetor input (bypassing the fuel filter and the fuel pump). This will allow you to ride the bike until you get a replacement pump. Do not forget to turn the gas off before disconnecting any hose, and then to turn it back ON before doing any test! Goose
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Everything there is correct. Nothing magical about measuring the resistor with an ohm meter except you should do it simply by leaving the cap assembled and measuring the whole thing together. Anything over 12K is a problem. Goose
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Shock absorber - test add air
V7Goose replied to 2Flights's topic in Royal Star and Royal Star Tour Deluxe Tech Talk
Using the regulator to set the pressure for the rear shock is OK, but any manual tire pump, big or small, will work just as well, and probably quicker. Just an FYI - In my experience, anything below 20 lbs in the rear shock is not good, and for two-up or loaded touring, I find 40 - 45 about right. I personally would never attempt to use the regulator method to set pressure in the forks. If you are careful enough it is probably not dangerous to the forks, but that isn't the point at all. For best handling, it is absolutely critical that both forks have EXACTLY the same pressure, and I'm willing to bet a beer or two that it just ain't gonna happen with that method! Here is the issue: the forks hold such a very small amount of air that even very minor differences will result in significant differences in pressure. Even if the tank and a very steady hand on the chuck does get the exact same pressure in each one, the slight difference in how the chuck is lifted off the valve will often result is a different amount of pffft (escaping air). This is so significant that you cannot even check the pressure in the forks unless you have a gauge with a zero-loss chuck (and all of those I have seen are already attached to a small hand pump!). My suggestion is that if you don't own the necessary zero-loss gauge to properly check the air in the forks, you probably should be leaving them at 0 anyway, and if you DO have the proper gauge, it is already attached to the hand pump you will be using to set the pressure. Riding with a pound or two difference in air between the forks is not particular dangerous unless you are trying to play junior racer, but it certainly will make the bike more tiring and less than pleasurable in the twisties for anyone but the most unskilled riders. The exact problems won't be obvious to most, but if you have been riding that way and then get them set evenly, you will immediately feel better about the bike. Goose -
Once again, just for extra clarity... Do not look at oil on the floor to try and guess what is wrong. Look at the bottom of the shock itself and the lower mounting bolt. If there is oil on the bottom of the shock, it is bad. If the bottom of the shock is dry, it is not bad. I don't think it can be any more clear than that. Goose
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I call it Fred.