V7Goose

I can't help much over what you have already done and what has been suggested. This is not that uncommon on these bikes the first time the carbs are synced, but the hoses usually do come off with a little rotating. I would try a curved dental pick to slip inside the hose and try to break it loose - you can get a set real cheap at Harbor Freight. When you do get it off, if the hose is damaged in any way, make sure you trim it before you put it back on. This engine is real sensitive to even minor vacuum leaks; the engine will seem to run fine, but you will get exhaust popping on decel. One other thing - not unheard of for those nipples to come out of the manifold when you are pulling on a stuck hose - if that happens, don't freak out. Just tapping it back in seems to work fine without any other sealant. Goose

I carry the Stop & Go Tire Plugger along with a small cylinder-powered air compressor in the bike at all times. In addition, I have had excellent luck with the old sticky-rope type of tire plugs in both truck and motorcycle tires in the past. I don't carry those because they need rubber cement, which can get punctured or dried up, making the plugs useless. I have recently seen an evaluation of a new type of plug similar to the sticky-rope ones, but that doesn't need any glue; they are also much smaller and do not require a small hole to be reamed out first. Sounded really good, but I can't find the info now. Goose

I concur with the advice here, but I will also add a bit more information. Neither gauge alone will tell you everything, but if I had to choose just one (I do not), it would be a volt meter; it can give you a good idea of the battery condition and a fair idea of the charging system condition. But like any other tool, you must actually know how to read and understand the gauge before it has any value at all. And that is the real problem with just a volt meter. A real volt meter is not like the toys they put in the dash of modern cars and trucks that do not actually read anything - those are actually more worthless than the idiot light! If your real voltmeter shows over 13V with the engine running, it MIGHT be charging the battery, or it might just be showing you that the charging system is working at max capacity to just keep everything running. 14 - 14.4V and it is a safe bet that all is well and the battery has been fully charged, but anything between 13 - 14V is just an educated guess based on extended observation of your machine. Our type of battery is not fully charged unless it reads 12.9V, and then only after the bike has sat for several hours after the engine was last run. If you look at the voltage sooner, it means nothing, since the battery will show a float charge above what it really has. To get an accurate reading, you either need to wait several hours or use a temporary load to draw off the float charge, like turning on your lights for 6 minutes or so. If you do not ride the bike every day, you will have to learn how to interpret the dropping voltage over time. All batteries will drop some over a week or more, and this especially happens when the temperature is below 50F. An older battery will drop faster and have less reserve capacity, so the best thing is to learn how yours behaves over time, watching for the voltage to not last as long as it used to as an indication that you should begin thinking about replacement. For example, I have the original stock battery in my '05, and if I let it sit for over a week in temps reaching into the 30s at night, it will show about 11.7 volts before I turn the key on (much lower as soon as the lights come on with the key). This is low enough to be very worrisome, but I also know from repeated tests that this same battery has plenty of reserve capacity left after sitting for even four weeks to fire the bike right up. Still, it shows the battery is in the checkout lane, and I need to keep a close eye on it. What a volt meter alone cannot tell you is if the battery is actually taking a charge, even when the voltage is showing 14V. A defective or older battery will sometimes present such a high resistance that a normal charging system cannot actually force enough current back into it. And remember my caution about not being sure what is actually happening when the voltage reads somewhere between 13 - 14V? Only an ammeter will tell you for sure if that voltage is low because the battery is actively being charged (therefore sucking available current), the overall load on the bike is just too high (extra lights, heated clothes, etc.), or the charging system has developed a problem and cannot keep up. Do you know how long it takes to fully recharge your battery after you first start the bike in the morning? I'm willing to bet money that it is WAY longer than most people realize! And an ammeter is the only way you can actually know when the battery quits taking on more current (meaning it is at full charge). Unfortunately, even most ammeters you get these days do not provide a lot of value - they are all designed to handle 50A or 60A load swings in both directions, and that means you see almost nothing when the current is under 10A. And remember, the absolute max load your bike can ever handle is 30A, since that is the size of your main fuse! So even if you put an ammeter on the bike, it will spend the majority of time at or near 0, indicating that current is neither flowing out of or into the battery, which is totally normal. To get any information from it at all, you need to be diligent at watching very small movements of the needle on either side of 0. Unless you know how to interpret these small readings, the most value an ammeter will have is to immediately clue you in if the charging system has failed, before the battery has a chance to completely die. The load of the lights and running engine when there is nothing being produced by the charging system will be very obvious on an ammeter, telling you that you have to do something NOW or you will be walking soon. But of course, this type of failure is VERY rare these days, so adding an ammeter is not much value for most people. Goose

Several years ago I was very interested in one of the Continental tires for my RSV - I particularly liked their claim of a dual rubber compound for extra mileage. The problem was that they did not make that tire in 150/80-16 for the front, so I wrote them an email asking for recommendations. They specifically told me to buy the 150/80-16 REAR tire and reverse it. Now here is the interesting part - this tire has a very different front tread pattern than rear pattern, so I challenged them on their response and asked them to explain why they made a different front tire pattern in this series for all other bikes, but said it wasn't important for the RSV? I specifically asked them to detail the handling differences one might expect on the same bike if they changed the "proper" front tire for the same size rear tire mounted backwards. They declined to answer that email and any of my correspondence after that! And I see now that they STILL do not make a 150/80-16 front tire in that series, and VERY ODD TO ME, all other tires sizes they sell in that series are specifically labeled as front or rear EXCEPT the 150/80-16. That tire has the tread pattern of all their rear tires, but it is the ONLY one that is listed as universal fit for both front and rear. That story doesn't prove anything, but it certainly made me distrust Continental and decide to never use their product! They had a chance to answer my questions on the technical merits of their recommendation, but when caught in a questionable stance, they simply decided to run and hide, then change the documentation so you couldn't try to catch them on that same point again. You may read it as proof that it is OK to always take a rear tire and reverse it to mount in the front, or at least "OK" so long as the manufacturer doesn't want to make the correct size front tire for your bike!!!! I personally think it shows a disingenuous company that should not be trusted. Goose

I don't think you should worry about it Max; my response was not directed at you. I was particularly concerned that some might feel the need to debate your political beliefs here, which would have been a bad thing for our site. If you had posted the same thing in a new thread, I would have deleted it immediately, thinking it served no purpose other than to foment discontent. But as I said above (and you repeated), I think it has value here very specific to your planned trip. I just do not want to see it turn into a political discussion. Warning people ahead of time doesn't always work, but I thought it was at least worth a try! Goose

Your "bad information" is the implication of your original post is that rotation arrows are not important and that the tire manufacturers do not state you need to reverse the tire rotation if you mount a tire on the opposite wheel from which it is intended. Goose

You may have never read it, but a little research would have quickly shown how wrong that statement is. Every manufacturer seems to have a slightly different take on it, but here are a couple: http://www.dunlopmotorcycle.com/infocenter_faq.asp?id=7#faq http://www.us.pirelli.com/web/motorcycle/tyres/tyres-technology/fitting/tyre_mounting.page As far as I am concerned, the fact that the manufactures actually put directional arrows on the tires is pretty danged strong evidence that the direction is IMPORTANT. In addition, the fact that they create different tread patterns for front and rear tires strongly indicates (to ME, at least), that there is a real technical reason to mount the tires where the manufacturers intend. Goose

This is not true. Here is a picture of a band new E3 rear tire next to a mounted E3 front tire. Although the tread patterns are similar, as most tire brands are (front compared with rear), they are absolutely not the same. [ATTACH]40919[/ATTACH] Goose

I am posting now specifically as a forum moderator: BEFORE anyone gives in to the urge to respond to Nevada Max's last post here, please consider this - we do NOT allow ANY political discussions on this board! While Nevada Max's post clearly has strong political content, I must say that it is appropriate here simply because it provides a clear 'heads-up' about their general beliefs to anyone considering joining this group - it is the kind of thing that can really make or break the ability of some folks to tolerate others. For that, I am grateful that he shared it here. BUT . . . This is NOT the place to respond in any way to those political thoughts. If you feel the need to comment at all, please confine it to private messages, NOT an open post in this thread! Any additional political content added here will result in immediate deletion. Thanx for listening, Goose

Mostly it is the tread pattern that is different. The construction of the belts is changed also, which requires you to reverse the tire rotation direction if you mount a rear on the front. Goose

Hmmmmmm, I read every issue of MCN too (and I actually PAY for my subscription, so I get them all), and I don't recall seeing any of those objectionable items that you reference. Perhaps I just don't pay attention, or maybe those mentioned here are taken out of context and may not have been objectionable at all when considered with all the information? I'll never know, I guess. But the good thing is that we are both free to consider any information and decide to agree with it or not. Personally, from what I read about Dyna Beads, and analyzing that with my own logic and various experiences, I am now convinced the product is a waste of money. No need for anyone to agree with me - I just wanted everyone to have an opportunity to consider the same information. That is why I actually typed in the entire quote instead of just repeating the basic information. Oh, on the oil issue, MCN has been the ONLY motorcycle pub that I know of which as done very extensive testing of most available name brands of oils, both motorcycle AND car oils, including scientific lab analysis of multiple samples, and published the information specifically to help motorcycle riders actually make an informed and hopefully intelligent decision on what oils to use! They have done this several times over the years, and I absolutely do not believe they have ever provided blanket advice to not use synthetic oil unless it was recommended by the manufacturer. As with other things, you probably shold not believe everything you read, whether it is in MCN or here! Goose

Sounds like y'all got the sealing problem under control. I never had an issue with it, so I never had a reason to examine the parts closely, but here are a few thoughts. First, I wonder if the problem some are having with this original crush washer is that the adapter is being over-tightened? It really shouldn't need that much torque, and the whole point of a split aluminum crush washer is to seal without being completely mashed. Crush washers USED to be available at auto parts stores - You are never supposed to re-use one on a spark plug, so if you remove the plug to read it, you need to replace the crush washer. Not that I ever replaced one myself, but that is the way it is supposed to be done! Of course, most newer engines and plugs use a tapered seat and no crush washer at all. Between the newer plugs and the fact that 99.9999999% of everyone just ignored the "requirement" to replace the washer on the old type of plugs (just like me), I'm not surprised that they are hard to find, but it doesn't hurt to ask. But I wouldn't buy another split aluminum spark plug crush washer anyway - I suspect you could use any properly sized nylon or copper plug washer to accomplish the same thing without the o-ring. There is a slight chance the rounded base of the brass adapter could cause problems with stretching out a copper washer or breaking a nylon washer. I doubt it, since you shouldn't need to tighten it that much, but if so, I'd just place a tight-fitting steel washer above the copper or nylon washer, then everything should seal right up. If you are using an electrical gauge, the copper washer or steel/copper washer combination is probably your best choice. Goose

I'd sure like to join y'all on this trip, but need a wee bit more info to plan it. So far all we have is a departure date of 2/26 (I think). Your initial itinerary showed being out 14 days, but now it is 21? You said join anywhere, but no real itinerary to know where anywhere might be. How tight is the plan you are putting together? I'm cool with just wandering in a general direction each day, but want to understand that ahead of time if that's the way it is planned. You mentioned hotels in Cabo - reservations and hard dates there, or just wing it when we get into town? How well do the other riders know each other? I don't know any of y'all, so I'd like to know if I'd be the odd ball in a tight group or just one of several odd balls! Goose

I didn't start this thread with the intention of goring anybody's favorite ox, but I just cannot control it now . . . I am blown away at the number of people who seem to be so willing to just blindly accept the manufacturer's claim that even though they know a spin balancer will effectively prove these beads do nothing, everyone should just ignore that and blindly accept their assurances that they are really good things! So I now know how I am going to support myself in retirement. Offering now: Mauser's Magic Ballancing Dust! I will sell you 5 oz at half the price for 2oz of Dyna Beads, and I will provide a money-back guarantee that it will provide 100% of all the benefits of Dyna Beads (provided that the buyer can provide any tangible evidence whatsoever of such benefits). The major benefit of Mauser's Magic Balancing Dust, besides being 1/2 price of Dyna Beads, is that no installation is needed at all - just dump the bag of magic dust on your tire and enjoy the ride! (mojo included for free - buyer provides his or her own mirrors) Place your orders now! Goose

My gauges are so old that whatever brand name they carry is meaningless - parts source and manufacturing techniques have undoubtedly changed over the intervening 30+ years. I do know that JCW sells a lot of EMGO products. I also know that JCW sells a mix of good products and crap, and it is not always easy to guess which one you are going to get until it arrives. But JCW's customer service and return policies have always been top-notch to me. Any time I call them and complain about the quality of something, they authorize free return shipping. I do not personally have a particular opinion on EMGO brand products, but I completely dismiss the statement you quote above for two reasons. First, it comes under the heading of a self-serving statement from someone trying to sell their own product. Secondly, since these gauges can be calibrated, how can they be "out of calibration"? I personally never, ever, never never buy anything off ebay - just my choice. But last year when this subject came up I did a little internet searching on various terms like "motorcycle sync gauges," "vacuum gauges," etc, and I found several sources for this gauge set for under $50. I would also tend to believe that any four gauge set on a blue plate that said Carburetor Synchronizer is almost certainly the identical set. I tend to believe that if a similar product is being made by two different manufacturers, they are going to be at least a little different unless one is deliberately trying to make you think you are buying a specific brand label! Goose BTW - both pictures of the four gauge set shown earlier in this thread look identical to my old one except that my plastic valves are green instead of white. Mine also came with the four long metal rods used to reach in and attach to the intake manifolds on a typical inline-four bike engine. There is not a brand name on my gauge set - there is a tiny little sticker on the back that says "Made in Taiwan", and the instruction say "printed in Taiwan." That's as close as it gets.

This seems like a really great idea. I had never seen one with a square handle beofre, but a little search of the internet just turned up this one: Mintcraft 5547609 for $7. I see one potential problem with this tool - since these wrenches are intended for a max nut size of 1 1/8" (which seems to be maybe a little smaller than the bearing ring nuts), and they do not have a pawl to engage one of the ring nut notches, it's quite possible the wrench will not grip well enough to apply the initial 36 ft lbs of torque needed to pre-load those bearings. But with a welder it might be a simple job to add a pawl to the end of the jaw - I think that is worth a try if you want one of these tools. And here is another thought if you cannot find one with a square handle - take one of the more common round-handle wrenches, cut the handle short and use a file or grinder to make it square. Or better yet, use a die to cut threads on the round shaft and put on a couple of large nuts (you will need two to lock them in place). The benefit of this last option is that you can use a six-point socket on the shaft instead of a 12-point, greatly improving the contact area and lessening the chance that you round off the square points with 36 lbs of torque. I think the risk is high of rounding a square shaft, even at that relatively low torque, since I doubt if the handle of a plumber's wrench will be made of hardened tool steel. Goose

Don't get me wrong, this is a big job that takes many hours, but once you are in there to the point you remove the nuts and bolts securing the inner fairing, the only thing that keeps it form just coming off is all them wire bundles, so it is not too much more to cut a bunch of zip ties and unplug the wires. It seems worse than it is, especially the first time. Goose

I'd rather believe independent testing than self-serving statements by someone trying to sell a dubious product. In addition, logic tells me the product cannot work and the testing performed should produce valid results. The actual test results support those conclusions, which I formed in advance of learning about the test results, so I think I'll stick with logic instead of mysticism. In addition, I'm busting a gut here at the idea of a company saying "Yeah, we know the spin balancer says your tire is out of balance, but trust us, it really isn't!" But, hey, that's just my opinion. Goose

You can take out the top bearing either way, and you are not going to get the lower bearing off the shaft without destroying it. But fully removing the forks certainly makes it easier to properly clean and re-grease the lower bearing. On the last one I did, there was plenty of grease and dirt built up under that lower bearing that needed to be carefully removed before repacking the bearing - that would have been near impossible to effectively do if the shaft was just lowered a bit in the triple tree. Despite my original post in this thread, after doing a couple of these, I really do not think removing the inner fairing is that much more work on a stock RSV. All the plugs are unique, so the only thing even remotely difficult about it is remembering which wires to route to which side of the fairing. It would be much more involved and difficult to rig up a mechanism in the garage to suspend the fairing and forks after just lowered them a bit. Now if the fairing is full of custom wiring and gauges, that might change my opinion a bit. Goose

I know lots of members here seem to like the Dyna Beads for tire balance. In general, I am not a fan of adding ANYTHING to my tires except air, but I have never joined that discussion since I didn't have any real information or first hand experience with the product. Well, now I have some info that I thought I would share in the hopes of maybe helping a few members here not waste their money. I am a huge believer in Motorcycle Consumer News - I won't go into all the reasons why at this time, but I have great faith in their testing and opinions. The following comes from their answer to a letter asking about Dyna Beads in the February 2010 issue: " MCN evaluated the Dyna Beads on a reader's suggestion back in October of 2006. Although the tiny white ceramic beads have apparently found favor with long-haul truckers, we tested them in a Honda 599. Using a shop's spin balancer, we checked the bike's rear wheel, which had 1.6 oz. of balance weights in place. The balancer agreed with the amount and location of the weights. After installing the specified two ounces of beads in the rear tire and then removing the rim weights, the balancer found an out of balance condition. This test was repeated five times and the balancer continued to call for the replacement of the 1.6 oz. of rim weights in the same location. Over-the-road testing was next. Without the rim weights, the rear wheel produced noticeable vibration and the installation of the beads gave a barely perceptible improvement. Also, the weight of the beads added so close to the tire tread gave a noticeable increase in gyro stability, making the steering heavier. We also tried them on a car and were disappointed. Bottom line: Save your money for a proper spin balance." Goose

The gauges have always come with four inline valves used to provide the restriction necessary to settle the bouncing. This is a good solution because the amount of restriction you need varies depending on the frequency of the pulses (engine speed). It also lets you temporarily open a valve more to verify the line/restriction is not plugged by something and that the gauge is not stuck. The proper setting is so the needles just slightly wiggle, which lets you know all the time that the gauges are getting the proper level of vacuum. If you close them down so that all wiggling is stopped, the gauge can continue showing the vacuum in the line behind the valve even when it changes on the engine side. The plastic valves are not of the highest quality, but they do the job. I changed mine out for brass aquarium valves long ago. As for making a four-line manifold, just go to the hardware store in the drip irrigation section and buy three plastic T connectors and 1 foot of plastic hose to cut up - the whole thing will probably cost you less than a buck! As for long term accuracy - like I already said, mine have remained accurate. I can't say for positive that they point to the EXACT same spot at zero, 'cause I never look at them at zero - that means there is no vacuum applied; therefore, it means I am not using the gauge!!!! What I care about is that all four gauges read identical levels of vacuum at anything between about 2" and 20" of mercury, and my vacuum pump proves that this is, and always has been, true for this set. Goose Oh, no tach is necessary for the gauges any more than it is for a different vacuum tool

I have not encountered this problem, but then again, I have not looked for it. However, I would not expect any looseness or play in any connection for the shock or swing arm. I suggest you dismantle the parts and look for wear. Goose

That works too. I have all the stuff, tho my shim kit is new and a bit light in a couple of the common sizes. But I'm sure we can take care of that. Goose

Unfortunately I haven't been deer hunting in years (and I miss it). I just got fed up with no public land in Texas and the high price of the common private hunting lease, so I alwas seemed to be busy doing other things. Wish I was back out west. . . Oh way, maybe one of these years I'll find a good place to hunt again where it won't cost more than the venison is worth! Goose

There are lots of options for that special tool - they are most commonly called C-spanners. Unfortunately I cannot give you a source - I have collected several of these over the years. The most useful is a universal type with a hinge in the middle that will work effectively on just about any size of ring nut. Other options include strap wrenches, chain wrenches, large water-pump pliers, or simply a punch and a hammer. The biggest drawback of most of these is that they cannot be used with a torque wrench, so you have to be able to appropriately judge both the initial bearing pre-load and the final light torque settings. This is not difficult if you have the experience, but it is not something you should just guess at! Goose