V7Goose

Just bumping this thread to keep some attention on it. I have been editing the main post (#2) to build the FAQ list and start the answers. This is a lot of typing, so I only do a few questions at each sitting. I appreciate the suggestions for items that should be included; I will be incorporating them in due time. Please take a look at what I have so far and let me know if you think the answers hit the mark. Goose

Well. I'd tell you that I am currently creating a FAQ focused specifically on the bike, but you already know that. I know because you have posted to that thread. So I guess I don't understand the point of your suggestion? Goose

This sounds great to me - I go to Cabo every year for a couple of weeks, but have never ridden the bike down there - I'll watch this closely and see if it works for time. Goose

I bow to your knowledge. I didn't bother to look it up to find the correct term - I just knew it was not a simple 1 : 1 progression. But I believe my point is still accurate - the impact of the air on the bike at 80 MPH isn't simply twice what it is at 40 MPH - it is MUCH worse; therefore, it is normal and expected for fuel mileage to drop off at an ever increasing rate as the speeds increase. Goose

This sounds pretty much in line with my experience. Usually an HD will get a little better fuel mileage than we do, but the biggest factor is the speed or head-wind. While your mileage of just 30 MPG seems a little low at 80-85 (if that is what was indicated on a stock RSV, you were only traveling at an actual 75 MPH), it is not too far off. I would normally expect about 33 MPG there unless I also had a head-wind. Our biggest problem is that the 2nd gen bikes have a terrible wind resistance, meaning they are not streamlined. And wind resistance increases logarithmically with speed - meaning the pressure on the bike at 80 MPH is not just twice what it is at 40 MPH, it is WAY more than that. So our MPG numbers fall dramatically and fast as our speed goes above 60. Goose

That's interesting, and good to know. When I did the research last summer looking for the tool, the one I found for the 1st gens was different (and cheaper!) than the one we need for the current bikes. I seem to recall they even look different in the shop manual. But if it worked for you, that's what counts - personal experience beats catalog numbers any time! One more thought before we let this rest - any chance the difference is between the 1200 and 1300 engines? No, I guess not - it looks like yours is a 1200, right? And the picture you showed is the tool for the 2nd gen bikes. Goose

I know the idea of using the CD controls to operate an MP3 player seems like a nice idea, but it also has drawbacks. The biggest one is that you can only listen to one source at a time (i.e, if you are listening to a "CD", you cannot listen to something plugged into the Aux input simultaneously). Personally, I found that a touch-screen GPS with integrated MP3 player is the ideal solution - that way I can listen to both if I desire. But if I am not using the GPS, the touch screen still functions perfectly as the music control. And of course, the bike's master volume knob and integration with the CB works just the same on Aux as it does with the radio or CD source. And the icing on the cake is that my GPS accepts memory cards, so I can load as many of them as I want (unlimited storage), change them at a whim, and never have to sync my device with my computer just to change the music! Finally, the integration of the music player with the GPS means that when Silicone Sue wants to tell me where to go, the music is automatically paused so I haven't missed a thing when it comes back on. Even an old dog like the RSV can be taught new tricks with technology! Goose

FYI - I am not sure about this, but I don't think the 1st gen motors use the same tool to depress the buckets as the 2nd gens. Just thought I'd mention that so y'all can do your own research ahead of time and not get surprised once the engine is already open! Goose

The two bikes are not at all the same in this aspect. The overall drive ratio on the 1st gen bikes in 5th gear is the same as the 2nd gens in 4th gear. In addition, the 1st gens do not have a rev limiter. Goose

No, you are not missing anything - you read the manual, and that is what it says. Unfortunately, whoever wrote that was very high on some psychedelic mushrooms at the time. The shift points in the owner's manual are an absolute joke in real life. Think of them as the absolute LOWEST speed at which you can shift into the next gear and NOT accelerate! To decide for yourself, try this test: Put the bike in 5th gear and ride steady at 50 MPH, then jerk the throttle open. See how bad the bike shakes and hammers? Now do the same thing at 70 MPH. If your carbs are in sync, you will get almost no vibration, but very quick acceleration. That nasty vibration you get at WOT in any gear when you are going too slow is what you can use to decide what your real world shift points should be. I can ride all day on secondary roads in 5th gear, up through 75 in the open areas, and down to 40 in towns, without ever down shifting. As long as I am constrained by typical cars ahead of me as we head out of towns and slowly pick up speed at normal car acceleration, 5th gear works just fine. But if there isn't anyone ahead of me, I absolutely must downshift to avoid lugging the engine and that nasty shake. Goose

As others have already said, your Tour Deluxe already has a much taller overdrive than your Harley did. And if you think you like it now, you will be REALLY blown away when you quit riding it like a Harley. Unless you are stuck behind a VW in downtown traffic, you really shouldn't be in 5th gear at 45 MPH. Although you can cruise at that speed in 5th, it doesn't have any pulling power. If you try to open the throttle in 5th it will just hammer and shake and stumble all over itself untill you finally get up around 65 or 70! 65 MPH in 5th gear is around 3,000RPM. If you want to feel what that engine is supposed to feel like, jerk the throttle open in 2nd gear on the next on-ramp and hold on untill you feel it falter on the rev limiter, then do the same thing in third. But watch out for the cops - by the time you hit the rev limiter in 3rd you will be doing 96 MPH (and you still have two more overdrive gears to play with after that!). Goose

Not one add - zilch, nada, none, not even one! Motorcycle Consumer News has made a strict point of never being beholding to any manufacturer or other advertiser, and the only way they can absolutely guarantee that is to not ever take a dollar of advertising money. They cover all types of bikes (but mostly road bikes), they have lots of excellent tech articles and bike comparisons, and you can absolutely believe that THEY believe what they say. Their web site sucks (http://www.mcnews.com), but the rag is good. And even with the shortcomings of their web site, you can get a feel for the magazine, so check it out! Goose

Yes, all items that are already well documented elsewhere will have just a short discussion in the FAQ and a link to the main content. This will work perfectly for any article in the tech library. However, I am not sure yet how often to use links to other threads with a long technical discussion of certain subjects - if they are not actually placed in the tech library, we run the risk of developing broken links over time as the board is maintained. In some cases I'll probably include a specific search suggestion instead of an actual link to specific threads. I guess we'll work out some of those ideas as we go. Goose

Agreed - and my only purpose of including them here is to reference those more detailed articles. Hopefully this will allow them to find the information on their own instead of just asking the same old tired question and waiting for us to tell them it is in the tech library! Goose

I am sorry if I over reacted, but I responded to your post thinking of how someone could be mislead if they didn't already understand the issue. Frankly, auto and bike batteries do not come fully charged - SOMEBODY has to do it, like you said. And I have little faith in expecting a "battery shop" to do it on their own. If any shop or mechanic has already done it, they will know the significance and make a point of telling the customer; if they don't say it, they didn't do it (IMHO). And more to the point - if you walk into ANY business and just buy a battery that you take with you at the same time - ain't no friggin way it could have been properly prepped unless they had some magical way of knowing yesterday that you were going to come in and ask for that particular battery! If they give you some baloney about always keeping one charged and ready - don't buy it. Personally, I don't want anyone to prep my battery - I don't trust them. If I do it myself, I have no doubt it was done correctly. But that is just me. Goose

Follow these links to the FAQs with answers that I have finished so far: General Questions - [ame=http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?p=417915#post417915]2nd Gen FAQs - General Questions - VentureRider.Org[/ame] Body, Frame, Windshield, luggage- Handling, Suspenstion, Tires, Controls, etc. - [ame=http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=43681]2nd Gen FAQ - Handling, Suspension, Tires, Controls, etc. - VentureRider.Org[/ame] Radio, CB, MP3 and other External Audio - [ame=http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=43682]2nd Gen FAQ - Radio, CB, MP3 and other External Audio - VentureRider.Org[/ame] Engine, Drive Train, Intake, Exhaust - The questions below have not yet been incorporated into the FAQs above: List beginning as a brain dump, in no particular order. Answers and other content to be added in due course: Dang, this bike is HOT in the summer - what can I do about it? I can't see over my windshield (or don't like it for various reasons), what are my options? What is the best oil and how often should it be changed? What oil filter should I buy? How often should I change the spark plugs? What kind of plugs are best? What coolant should I buy, and how do I change it? I can't find GL-4 gear lube - can I use GL-5? What is the difference? My brake reservoir cover says to use DOT4 fluid, but I have an old can of DOT3 sitting around - can I use that? Can I use DOT5 brake fluid - I hear it does not damage paint or absorb water like DOT4? My inside rear brake pad wears out much faster than the outside pad - what is wrong? How long should brake pads last? My front brakes make a terrible grinding noise - what is wrong? What battery should I buy and how should it be prepared? What is the charging capacity? How much additional electrical load can I add? Can I use electric clothing? What are carb heaters, and why should I care? Where do I find a list of alternative parts? Where to I find matching paint? Why does my bike "backfire" (afterfire) or pop and bang on deceleration? Is carburetor synchronization really important? How often should it be done? How do I tell if my bike needs it? Why does my bike make a clicking or crunching sound when I roll it, especially in reverse? How do adjust the steering head bearings,and how do I tell if they need it? How often do I REALLY need to have my valves checked, and what is a reasonable cost for this service? Do these bike run well at high altitudes, or should I have something done with the carbs before a trip? I wish this bike had Fuel injection! Do I need to do anything to tune or maintain my carburetors? Do those funny looking plastic wind deflectors on the forks actually do anything? Why do they keep breaking off every 8,000 miles or so? What headsets should I buy? Will a headset and cord from any other bike work with the Venture? How do I get those #$%! stickers off the gas tank? What are the drive splines or drive fingers I keep hearing about needing grease, and why did my dealer tell me not to believe everything I read when I asked him? How often do they need grease? What is the whine or chirp I hear about? Can it be fixed? Is it covered under warranty? My new (or new-to-me) Royal Star has a horrible scream or whine at a particular engine speed - what is that and what can I do about it? What tach can I use? Are gauges available for these bikes? Can I use an air compressor with the power jack in the fairing? Thee owners manual says there is a second auxiliary power outlet under the seat, but I cannot find it. Where do I find the fuses for the power outlets? I think my clutch is slipping - how do I tell for sure? How long should my clutch last? Is there an easy fix when it starts slipping, or do I need to replace all the plates? My trunk lid doesn't seem to open very far - is there an easy fix? The buttons on the saddlebag and trunk locks seem very hard to push; how do I fix this? My saddlebag lid is stuck closed, no matter how hard I push the button - how do I get it open? (just saving the list now to keep it going)

General Questions (still under construction) Q: What does RTFM mean? Is it rude when someone uses this term in a post? A: Read The Friggin' Manual! (or something similar) Although easy to misconstrue, this term is rarely meant here in a mean way. Instead, it is a quick and somewhat lighthearted shorthand to tell the reader the requested information is actually documented appropriately by the manufacturer. Not only should it help you find the information in the future, but it also works as a kind of validation that the supplied answer (which is usually included with "RTFM") is not just something immagined in an alcohol induced fog by the respondent. Q: OK, I get the hint - RTFM! But I don't have the "FM" - where can I get owner's and technical manuals for the Royal Star Venture and Tour Deluxe? A: Although the 2nd Gen bikes have not materially changed since their introduction in 1999, the owner's manuals HAVE changed. (find data on model year differences) You can download the correct one for your specific model year free from the Royal Star web site (insert link here). The shop manual has not been changed since it was first printed in 1999. You can purchase one from Yamaha, find a copy in either hard copy or CD on ebay, or it can be downloaded here ((insert link here). Q: What "known issues" are there with the 2nd Gen Royal Star Venture and Tour Deluxe bikes? A: These are documented in the Technical library here: [ame=http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1067]A list of known problems on the Second Gen Venture - VentureRider.Org[/ame] In addition, much more information on any item listed can usually be found with a search of the forums. Just be sure to use search terms greater than three letters and try alternate spellings if you aren't finding the results you expect. Q: Are there any differences between model years for the 2nd Gen bikes? Are all parts interchangeable? A: There are virtually no differences between model years other than colors offered. All parts should be interchangeable, and when ordering new Yamaha parts, an updated part number for any improved or upgraded part should be applicable to all older models, from 1999 through 2010. Although not a technical or design difference, the CD Changer accessory that previously could be purchased for around $600 became standard on the 2009 RSV. It is installed in the right saddlebag. Q: What is covered in my warranty? A: This is pretty straight forward - the U.S warranty is clear that it covers the entire bike for 5 years from the date of initial service. Unfortunately, a few bad dealers seem to be too lazy to provide proper support to their customers and try to claim various problems are not covered, including things like ABS plastic body parts, wheel bearings, etc. These shyster dealers should never be allowed to get away with such dishonest behavior. If you run into something like this, post your experience on the board here and we will try to help you identify the proper places to file your complaints. Q: What fuel should I use? A: This engine is specifically designed to use regular fuel (typically 87 pump octane rating, 85 at high altitudes). Some riders prefer to use premium fuel, but all scientific documentation and independent testing shows that there is zero benefit from using higher octane than the engine needs to prevent knocking or detonation. Using premium fuel will not hurt your bike in any way, but the extra cost is a complete waste of money unless it just makes you feel better. Q: What fuel mileage should I be getting? A: Like tire mileage, there are many things about individual riding styles, the environment, and specific differences in each bike that may make your specific mileage different from the "norm". The biggest variable for this bike is the average speed you ride. In general, if you spend most of the time at 60 or less, you should expect between 36 and 40 MPG, and even up to 45 is not uncommon when spending the day in the twisties. But if you like to travel at an indicated 75 or above, you will probably see mileage figures between 30 and 35 MPG. Q: How much gas does this tank really hold? Is it all usable, or is some left in the tank even after I "run out"? A: The manual says the RSV has a six gallon tank (the RSTD tank is smaller), and this is accurate. However, filling the tank completely to the top is quite difficult unless you have added vent holes to the top of the filler neck as described here: [ame=http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=302]Vent the Gas Tank Filler Neck - VentureRider.Org[/ame] These tanks do not have a crossover line to allow the fuel levels to equalize, so if you hold the bike straight and drain the tank, some fuel will be left on the right side. In real riding conditions, the normal sloshing of the gas in leaning, acceleration and braking will allow virtually all of the fuel to be moved to the left side and be used. Several riders have reported filling the tank with up to 5.98 gallons, verifying the full capacity of six gallons and that all of it can be used in most riding conditions. However, if you have been riding on a straight and level highway for a while before you run out, you might be able to get another 10-20 miles by leaning the bike way over to the left to get access to some of the trapped fuel. Q: How far can I go on Reserve? A: The RSV owner's manual says the reserve is 1 gallon, but the majority of owners have found their actual reserve is 1.5 gallons (usually the low fuel light will come on and the odometer switches to the "Fuel" trip meter about 5 miles before the carbs begin starving and require you to switch the petcock). Under most conditions, you should always get a minimum of 40 miles on reserve, and with reduced speeds and careful riding, 60 miles is often possible. Although the RSTD has a slightly smaller tank and no low fuel light, its reserve capacity is theoretically similar, but we are still looking for definitive information there.

This is simply the beginning of a new set of Frequently Asked Questions I am going to create for us, focused specifically on the bikes, not the use of this board. Many of us get tired of seeing the same old things asked repeatedly, especially when they have been coved in great detail so often in the past. Hopefully, this will allow those new owners to find the basic ansers and links much faster! I am starting with the 2nd Gen models since that is the bike I own and know intimately, and I am starting it here simply to solicit ideas on what should be included. I am going to build this in stages, as I feel like typing and looking things up. I will begin with the next post by listing the FAQs alone without the answers, just to bet the list going, but I will keep editing that post and adding the answers to the questions until it is ready for movement to a more appropriate place. Please feel free to post any and all thoughts to this thread that will help in refining the ultimate document. I am sure that some of the items will be controversial, such as defeating the rudimentary pollution controls on these bikes, but I will endeavor to handle all items in a balanced and fair way (even the evil car tire debate!). But I also implore any of you to keep me on the straight and narrow if you feel I have not done a subject justice. Goose

This is not so, and any reader would be wise to read the instructions from the battery manufacturer. The fact is, NO automotive-type battery of which I am familiar comes fully charged or ready for use. It is true that they will work right off the shelf and seem just fine. It is also true, in my opinion, that the vast majority of batteries are put into use without proper preparation, no matter if they are bought from WalMart or installed by a professional mechanic. This may be from either laziness or a sad lack of knowledge, but the damage is done either way. The fact is, any lead-acid type of battery, including the maintenance free and AGM types that are most common today, MUST be properly charged before put into use or it will NEVER achieve more than 80% of its full capacity. In addition, its life span will be shortened appreciably. Don't take my word for it; I strongly advise anyone to do their own research on this matter - you will easily find more than enough authoritative information on the internet with a simple search. But even if you don't do any of that, simply reading the paperwork that comes in the box with a typical motorcycle battery will disabuse you of many false thoughts. I do not profess to know all there is to know about all batteries; I simply suggest you follow what the manufacturer says to do! Goose

Your battery should have come with an instruction booklet that gives you all the details on the charge rate and length of time. If it did not, you can download one from Yuasa's web site. Although it is best to follow the manufacturers instructions, you MAY be able to use your current charger IF it is a quality "smart" charger that tapers the current as needed and cannot over-charge a battery. You will have to read the manual from the charger to determine that. Goose

I have absolutely no idea what an engine breather cover is. And if my engine does breath, I don't know why I'd want to cover it. Goose

The carb heaters do not come on unless the bike is in gear. Goose

Just use a bit of silicone or hot-melt glue to stick about four flat washers to the end of each spacer - effectively doubles the length without costing a thing! Goose

Well, we don't all agree on the looks of the spacer bracket - I know that some say they like it, but personally, I think it looks all wrong and terrible with the passing lights further forward than the stock headlight. Oh well, to each his or her own! My choice was to simply make the existing spacers a bit longer to get the lights to clear the fairing but not look like they are in a different position. Yes, I still have to remove the bolts to split the fairing, but that doesn't bother me at all. Goose

Man,I ain't back yet - gonna be sittin' here enjoying the cerveza and tequila until Monday! But thought I'd get the post started to see if there was any interest with enough advance notice to maybe actually plan a date instead of reacting. And you are more than welcome to join us, even if all ya wanna do is some bench racing and knock back a cool one or two. We have an open room - Hope to see ya, Goose