V7Goose

To my knowledge, no one has every noticed such a problem. In fact, older versions of this same bike do not even have carb heaters (but they do have smaller carburetors). I know a number of owners have completely disabled their carb heaters and have never seen a reason to have them. Personally, I prefer to leave them operational. Just because I don't know the facts about why the manufacturer put them on the bike doesn't convince me they do not have value! I may be an idiot, but I do not believe that a manufacturer will deliberately design in a feature unless they believe it has technical value, is required by law, or will increase market share by making the consumer THINK it has value. But that's just me. Goose

Thought I'd give y'all a little first hand observation on the operation of the RSV carb heaters. Most anyone with an interest is this subject already knows that the four carb heaters pull a combined 60 watts of electricity, the equivalent of the stock driving lights. Considering the limited extra power output of our stock charging system for things like heated clothing and such, reclaiming that 60 watts is an oft-discussed issue. But the one thing we have never really discussed is just how often and how long those carb heaters are actually on. I added a cutoff switch last year to allow me to manually shut them off if I ever wanted, and I also added an LED to let me see just when they were really on. Problem is, I honestly never remembered to actually check it anytime it would have been of value! Well, when several of us were up in Palo Duro Canyon in the Texas Panhandle this weekend, I finally had a good chance to check it out and actually remembered to do it. This discussion is NOT about the technical specifications of when the thermostat triggers the heaters to come on and go off - you can find that in the shop manual. This is about real world observation of when they are REALLY on and when you might care. I found that when the temperature is 35 degrees, the carb heaters will stay on for about 30 minutes when doing low-speed and city type riding. After about that long, the combined heat from the engine and that right rear exhaust pipe (real close to the heater thermostat) will cause them to go off and stay off (PROVIDED you continue riding in the same conditions). BUT, at highways speeds (for this test it was anything above 60 MPH), the constant blast of cold air around the bike will KEEP THE CARB HEATERS ON CONSTANTLY. If you slow down while riding through a town, they will go off, but shortly after you get back up to speed, they come right back on. As the temperature approaches 40 degrees they will go off and stay off, even while cruising at 70 MPH. So, bottom line seems to be that the value of disabling the heaters to reclaim that extra electrical power will completely depend on your type of riding and the lowest outside temperatures in which you might ride. If you never or rarely venture out on two wheels when the temperatures are below 40 degrees, you can pretty much just ignore the carb heaters - they won't be on long enough to make much of a difference for you, even if you are pushing the limit of the available electrical power. Just half an hour or so of extra drain won't make much of a difference UNLESS that is about as long as you ride each time (such as only riding to and from work instead of on a long trip). However, if you tend to ride below 40 degrees, you really should think about putting in a switch. I think the most important advice I would give anyone who has concerns about the electrical capacity on these bikes is to add a digital volt meter. I have discussed the benefits and limitations of both volt meters and ammeters in some older threads, and although neither of them alone will let you diagnose the condition of both the battery and the charging system, the volt meter alone WILL suffice to give you a heads-up when you are on thin ice. In short, if all is good, the voltage should ALWAYS be over 13.0 volts while above idle. If you see it staying at anything below 12.9 volts while riding, either your battery is on it's last legs, or you have more electrical load than your charging system can handle (while having to charge the battery too). Goose BTW - as I have stated in many other posts over the years, from my own personal measurements, the stock RSV with Yamahaha riding lights (only 30 watts each) and carb heaters on is already at max load if you are using the audio system and CB too. There just ain't nuthin left for anything else but maybe a few LED lights. Some people claim to have been using 55 watt driving lights and heated clothing for years with no problems - good for them, but it ain't so on the two RSVs I have owned. Without the proper gauges you can THINK everything is fine, but you are slowly destroying your battery. And not even "slowly" if the bike is usually run for less than an hour each time you start it! If you don't have the gauges, but still want to know if your battery is really up to snuff, just use a decent digital volt meter and touch it to the battery terminals after the bike has been sitting overnight (any reading within 3 hours of the last ride will be invalid due to a superficial "float" charge). If the battery is not at 12.9 volts, it is NOT fully charged. And like I said above, if the volt meter does not read over 13 volts (preferably about 13.8 - 14.0) when you start the bike and bring the engine above idle, then it can't even properly charge the battery if it is not already damaged, hence the "slow death" that will have you buying batteries more often than you need to.

Few people change the brake and clutch fluids as they should. DOT 3 and 4 fluids absorb water which degrades its performance. Look at the sight glass - fluid in good shape should look absolutely clear in that little window (poured out of a fresh can, it is about the color of corn silk). If it is brown, it is WAY too old. Changing it is not any harder than just bleeding it, so might as well do that instead. Either DOT3 or DOT4 is fine for the clutch (they can even be mixed), but stick with DOT4 for the brakes. NEVER use DOT5 unless the vehicle specifically calls for it; it is not compatible with the other fluids. In my experience, putting in the PCW spring and replacing that weenie half-plate in the back of the stack has always resulted in a clutch that engages positively with the lever much closer to the grip than the stock setup. Goose

There really isn't a 26,000 mile scheduled service - there is a 24K and a 28K, and they are virtually the same. I have no idea why Yamahaha specifies the valves to be checked at an odd interval like "every 26600 miles" instead of just putting that in the 28K service. Other than the valves, the only service that is extra big and should cost a lot more is every 16,000, when the swing arm and steering head bearings need to be repacked. The good news for you is the RSTD should be MUCH easier to do steering head bearings than the Venture, where you have to completely remove both the outer AND inner fairings! $800 and 9 hours for the valves sounds outlandish to me. It IS huge job, but it souldn't take a qualified/experienced mechanic with the proper tools 9 hours - hell we didn't even know what we were doing, and we did the valves on FOUR RSVs in that time! That's not to say that the valves should only take 2 hours, since we were working on multiple bikes at the same time, but it sure isn't 9 hours. I generally would expect to pay $400 to $500 for that service. I do NOT advise the service interval for valves be skipped, but neither do I think there is anything magical about 26,600. IMHO, waiting until 30K, or even 32K shouldn't be any problem at all. Goose

I have 75,000 on my 05 RSV, and I put almost 15,000 on an 07. I have done a LOT of very specific tire testing and comparisons on these bikes (see tons of information in my older posts). I have found that this bike is quite sensitive to both the specific tires used and having the correct air pressure. It is also critical to make sure the front forks are exactly equal (and 0 lbs is fine). I do not ride with less than 20 lbs in the rear shock, and usually keep it at least 30 lbs for solo riding and about 48 lbs for fully loaded. As for tire pressure, in my opinion 40 lbs is way too low for the 80H Venom. Ideal is between 46 and 48. Anything over 48 is bad and causes noticeable impact on handling. I generally keep my front around 36-38. If the tires are 5 lbs or more below those numbers, the bike wallows in long sweepers and feels a lot like the frame is flexing. If you run the Venom at max 50 lbs, it tends to feel fine under most conditions, but if you really load it up, you will get that flexing feeling on rough road in those long sweepers again. If you have a rear tire with max pressure of 40, like the E3 or Pirelli, put it at 40 and keep it there. 40 in those tires handles great, and anything above that is both unsafe AND makes the bike have the same handling problems as running the Venom at 50. Goose

In my experience, this is pretty normal if the pivot is not lubed on schedule. When my RSV was new and I had a maintenance contract on it, I noticed the side stand stiffening up each time as I got close to the service interval. The dealer would use a white lithium spray grease on that pivot, and others, like the brake peddle, and it always was supper smooth when I got it back. Now I just use a little spray chain lube on it when I change my oil. WD-40 is a perfect choice to clean it out - spray liberally while you move the stand up and down, then give the crack a shot of spray lube (any spray grease or chain lube is great). As for the up and down motion - that is normal. Goose

I rarely take my own time to try and ferret out this information from the poster's profile or earlier posts. If they are asking for help, they should either put the information in their request or make sure it shows next to their avatar. As for the particular forum, that doesn't tell you much. A 97 Royal Star is quite a different animal from the 05-09 RSTDs. In fact, if he IS asking about a 97, I have no idea if the vent hoses to which I referred are on that bike or not! My own personal knowledge is primarily on the 99 and later Royal Star Ventures and RSTDs, and I have made the mistake before of offering information that is not applicable to the poster's bike wen they do not say. I now do my best to remember to qualify my advice! Goose

Yes, all engines must be completely cold when valves are checked. Not really necessary to let it sit for 24 hours, but overnight is always the best, just to be sure. Goose

I'd bet your bike is running just fine. Your problem is you need to quit riding it like a V-twin. Gose

Two of those vent hoses connect to the air plenum drains (just above and behind the carbs for #1 and #3). Getting an occasional drip from the left drain is absolutely normal, especially on bikes with many miles and significant highway running (long times at high RPM). This comes from some of the oil mist that condenses on the inside of the air plenums over time,a nd it only tends to drip from the left one because that is the lowest point while the bike sits on the side stand. This is also why the left rear carb is always gunky with old dirty oil that has seeped out over from the rubber hose connecting the plenum to the top of the carb. And as others have already said above, over filling the engine WILL absolutely cause much more oil to be blown up there from the crankcase vent, and that will continue to slowly drain out those vent hoses over time, even after you have put the engine oil level back to normal. Part of the reason that those hoses never seem to completely dry up once you have overfilled the engine is that they both have check valves in them. Goose

This is about one of the most nonsensical things I have ever seen. It there was even a hint of truth in it, then everyone with the same type of bike would have the problem with oil loss, and it just ain't so! Stevel, you don't tell us what bike you have, but I am going to assume it is a 2nd gen. If so, then a few drops of oil from the vent hoses on the let side under the battery area is not uncommon, especially after extended highway riding or when the engine is over-filled - this is from normal condensation of oil vapor inside the air plenums above the carbs. I do not know where your oil went, but if you are really missing 2 quarts after 4,000 miles, that is very significant. If you saw any white smoke on starting in the morning (real smoke, not water vapor), then it likely is coming from valve seals/guides. But if it is burning that much oil, I'd expect to see some sign of it in deposits on the plugs. Goose

You need to back up and tell us what you have done so far. Probably the most important first check is for you turn the key on and verify that the neutral light is on, then push the starter button and tell us if BOTH the oil and temp lights come on when the starter button is down. Goose

Not only do you NOT need to let a dealer perform maintenance to preserve your warranty, but it is even illegal under federal law in the US for a dealer to even tell you that! Not DOING the required maintenance CAN void your warranty, but only for claims that the manufacturer can reasonably show are directly related to the required maintenance you did not have done. In other words, if you skip the valve check/adjustment at 26,000 miles and later have a burned valve, they can deny that repair under warranty. But if you later have a gear fall out of your transmission, they cannot deny that repair, as the failure would have absolutely no relationship to your skipping the proper valve maintenance. You will need to buy valve cover gaskets to do the service - just keeping that receipt is reasonable proof that the service was done. If you want more, all you need to do is take a picture of the bike while it is torn down. Federal law specifically allows you to do any scheduled or required maintenance yourself (or have it done by anyone else whom you choose) and still keep your warranty valid. I know Ponch has already offered to help, and I will too - I have the tools needed, so just ride that thing on up here and we'll get 'er done! Goose One other service related comment for all of you - Do NOT skip checking and adjusting the steering head bearings! If you ride many miles with them loose, you WILL ruin them, and if you didn't do the scheduled lube at 16,000 miles (I think that is the first one), then you probably won't get Yamaha to fix them under warranty. That lube is a HUGE job, kinda like the valve adjustment, and it IS important. But keeping them properly adjusted is MORE important!

Your bike is under warranty, so why did you go to a second dealer? Just tell 'em to fix it and quit talking about it! Goose

That is the relay that activates the carb heaters. No, it shouldn't make any noise except one click when you put it into gear. Goose

Stock rear tire load rating for the RSV is a 74H tire. The E3 is 77H, and Avon Venom is 80H. You generally should not put radial tires on a bike that was not designed for them (that is straight from the tire manufacturers). As far as I know, there are no radial motorcycle tires made in the stock size for the RSV, so you don't need to worry about it. Goose

Well, first of all, my post was just a joke (at least the part about the cost of the cassette). But you are wrong that a manufacturer doesn't give a damn about the cost per unit of manufacture. Yes, they almost always do pass it all on to the buyer, but a smaller increase is ALWAYS better, all else being equal. The only justification for choosing to do something more expensive is if they expect the perceived value to offset the increased cost and generate higher sales. The really bad part of even a minor design change is that the up front cost on the manufacturing process is generally quite large, and that total cost must be amortized over the expected number of units over a set period of time. Since the RSV is such a small volume item, they would never get their cost back without pricing the bike like a typical HD. That is why I keep saying there is zero chance of seeing ANY changes to this 10 year old design until they completely update it with the expectation of at least another three to five year run. Goose

The price increase is completely understandable - it is costing Yamahaha a high premium to source those cassette decks now. Nobody's making them anymore, so they have to be specially sourced just for the Venture! But changing the design drawings and assembly line to just put in a plastic accessory box in its place would cost even more. Goose

You are right - for some reason I read that as a '94 model, not an '04. Thanx for the correction. Goose

The problem getting someone to check the code for free is the year. The federally mandated common interface for the on board computers did not go into effect until 1996, so MOST vehicles that had such a system before 1996 have a proprietary interface that only the manufacturer will be able to use. This started out as a deliberate trap by the manufacturers to force you to go back to their service shops, and that is the very reason we now have a law that makes it possible for anybody to check the codes. No harm in asking Autozone to check it, but don't be surprised if they say they do not have the correct equipment. Goose

MV85 The fitment guide on Dunlop's web site shows the correct front and rear size.

I'm surprised if you haven't already seen this comment in older posts about tires (some of mine have a huge amount of data comparing tires on this bike), but I'll briefly repeat it here anyway. GET RID OF THAT CRAPPY OEM BRICKSTONE RUBBER!!!! Your bike will feel like a completely different machine, about 300 lbs lighter and much more stable. That rear tire has absolutely NO traction and wears very fast. You have already gotten a thousand miles more than most of us can get from that POS, and by now it is dead flat across the center with sharp ridges on the corner. It howls in the slightest lean, and the edges grab onto any road imperfection or groove and throw the bike back and forth like a drunken banshee. Your front has LOTS of tread left, especially in the center (harder rubber compound there), but it is so grossly misshapen with an extra wide shape and poor profile that the front forks feel like they are trying to slam all the way to full lock as soon as you start a turn at slow speed. ANY tire you can buy will improve both issues, but the D404 is just an average tire, in both handling and life. You may think it is cheaper, but it is not. When you compare the shorter life and the extra cost of changing it more often, you are much better off with the longer life of an Avon Venom or Dunlop E3. Goose

This information is not correct. There is NOT a separate coil circuit in the ignition switch - at least not directly. If you check the schematic, you will see that the main 12V power to all four coils comes off the same power wire that fires the rest of the bike (through the kill switch). There IS a separate section of the ignition switch, but it passes only a ground from the neutral switch to the "SS" pin on the Ignitor. Goose

Yes

By the same logic, you are FAR less likely to . . yada yada yada ... if you just leave the bike in the garage, or on the showroom floor. Me, I bought my bike to RIDE, so that's what I do. If you bought your bike to do something else, then do that. Goose