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V7Goose

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Everything posted by V7Goose

  1. V7Goose
    Not absolutely positive about this 'cause there are a few minor differences between the RSTD and RSV, but look at the plastic mud shield next to the fender under the left side of your seat. You will see a round plastic plug that covers a hole that is already the right size for a standard cigarette lighter type power port. Basically, this is the same place your rear shock air valve is, just on the other side of the bike. And being so close to the battery, it is very easy to route a new fused 14 AWG or 12 AWG wire to the new plug with a 20 amp fuse so you can run an electric air compressor or other power hungry device (such as an actual cigarette lighter, if that is what you are wanting, instead of just the power port). Goose
  2. V7Goose
    Yes, it IS bent. Unless you have examined a bike with it not bent, then compared it to yours, you generally cannot tell, but that doesn't change the fact that it IS bent. An RSV with a bracket that is not bent from someone trying to force the lid closed while the strut is locked will allow the lid to open to a straight up position, where it will sit on its own without using the strut lock. You can either fix it like I described in my post above, or you can continue telling yourself it is not bent. Goose
  3. V7Goose
    It is not the ignition switch - you have a bad battery. Goose
  4. V7Goose
    Your bracket is bent from someone trying to force the lid shut with the arm locked. Just gently push the lid back until it is straight up, this will pull the soft metal bracket back into place against the rear of the trunk. Goose
  5. V7Goose
    Where did you get your carb tune? If you bought it new, the restrictors came with it. All they are is a small piece of clear tubing with a VERY small hole in it that you are supposed to cut into 4 pieces, then put one piece into each of the hoses. Goose
  6. V7Goose
    FWIW - here is the particular tool I have used for over 30 years, and this is the lowest price I have seen on it in 20 years! JC Whitney used to sell these for reasonable price, but their price doubled last year - ugh. http://www.sportingforless.com/servlet/the-50/Carburetor-Synchronizer-carb-sync/Detail (I have never ordered from this place, so don't take this as a recommendation) Goose
  7. V7Goose
    Hey man, hope you have a safe trip - and if you come through the DFW area in North Texas, y'all have a place to stay right here - just give me a shout! Goose
  8. V7Goose
    I'm sure nobody is disagreeing with you on that. My only point, which I wanted to cover in this thread for new members that may not have seen the older discussions on this, is that there are multiple options. For the same or lesser price, there are other options that work at least as well and may or may not be of interest to them. If you (meaning any reader) have a reason to prefer the Carbtune, then great, it is the right tool for you. It is not the right tool for me, but that is just personal opinion, not a condemnation of your choice. Goose
  9. V7Goose
    Anyone looking to buy a tool like this should consider alternatives before deciding on a particular one. Each type has ardent followers and detractors. Personally, I dislike the Carbtune because it tends to stick so much and cannot be calibrated. I prefer the mechanical vacuum gauges - very rugged, reasonable price, and can be calibrated. Goose
  10. V7Goose
    Many auto parts stores carry it - a black and yellow can with a pop-top, about half the size of a typical Seafoam can. I have reset the float levels on MANY Royal Stars, and with only a single exception, every bike with more than 10,000 miles on it has always shown a slight orange/brown sediment film inside the float bowls, even from bikes where the owner said they regularly used Seafoam. The only exception was from a bike with about 30,000 miles - the carb bowls were so danged clean I couldn't tell they were not brand new! The owner, Tom in Blanco, TX, told us he used 44K occasionally. Ponch was there when I did that bike, so that is how he knew about the stuff. Based on that one observation, and now Ponch's testimonial, I think I'll switch my allegiance to 44K! Goose
  11. V7Goose
    More proof that the AIS actually lets you know when there is something about the fuel or ignition that needs attention, and that a properly set up and tuned RSV with the AIS in working order will NOT regularly pop and bang on decel! Thanx for the report Ponch, and glad you got it straightened out so easily. Goose
  12. V7Goose
    There are a few of us around the area. C'mon over and bring a 12 pack - we'll bench race a while, check out your bike, and give you a head's up on a few things you should know about it. Goose
  13. V7Goose
    Personally I would never use the stuff. I have seen it run in a gear box with a clear plate on it, and it tends to foam a lot. Air in oil is very bad, as it significantly reduces the amount of actual oil that gets pumped between two surfaces (think of a soap bubble vs a drop of soap). I do not know if it would foam as much in an engine instead of a gear box, but for us, it makes no difference - our engine INCLUDES the gear box. Goose
  14. V7Goose
    Quite trying to guess what is going on by riding it. Test the battery and charging capacity with a volt meter. You don't even need to know too much about it to do the preliminary test: With the key off, check the voltage across the battery. If it is not 12.9 volts after being off for more than 3 hours, the battery is NOT fully charged. Get it charged before doing anything else. With a fully charged battery, start the bike and bring the RPM up to somewhere around mid-range. The actual engine speed is not too important, just make sure it is higher than idle. With the engine running fast, the voltage across the battery should be around 13.7 volts. If lower, your bike is not charging properly. I see you are in Texas. If it is North Texas, bring it over here and we'll get it sorted out. Goose
  15. V7Goose
    But Boss, he ASKED! (blubber blubber . . .) Just joking with you - of course you are right, and I should not have allowed myself to be goaded into that response. But you did make me think about the subject a bit more - I have completely avoided making any sort of comment on the darksiders forum because I know they don't want me there - their minds are as closed about the subject as mine is, just for different reasons. BUT, that means there is absolutely no place for someone with an OPEN mind to get good balanced information on the subject before they get persuaded to just jump in and try it. I guess I'll just have to start watching that forum and provide some responses when the questions are being asked by someone who actually seems to want opinions on both sides. But I'll do my best not to respond to the subject out here any more! Goose
  16. V7Goose
    Yes, they are unsafe, particularly the car tire on a motorcycle. But like you said, "That's your opinion and it's good that you have one... even if it's wrong." Goose
  17. V7Goose
    To grok the sync process, you must have a better idea what is going on. You cannot adjust any individual carb throttle position by itself. Each screw just changes the connection between TWO carbs, so turning it one way causes carb "x" to open more and carb "y" to open less. At whatever point they BOTH pull the same vacuum, no matter what that vacuum level is, they are in sync. So you don't have a choice of what vacuum level to sync them at. Once they are all at the same vacuum, if the idle speed is too high or two low, you use the idle adjustment to change the opening of ALL of them together, which keeps them in sync. And as others have already said, none of that changes the fuel mixture at all, it just ensures that each cylinder is working equally hard. Goose
  18. V7Goose
    Your bike would probably be dead WAY before you could ever blow that 30A fuse from too many add-ons! The only time all that current would be pulled through the fuse is if EVERYTHING was turned on with the key in the on position and the engine not running. When the engine is running, the stator will provide as much current as it can for the load, with the excess being sucked out of the battery (and through that fuse). That's why you really need a volt meter and/or an ammeter to monitor what is actually going on at any particular time. Goose
  19. V7Goose
    Despite many of us here jumping in to try and help this trial member when he asked, he seems to have lost interest in us. He never even saw fit to respond to any of our suggestions. He doesn't ride his bike, and I suspect he won't be back. Goose
  20. V7Goose
    I don't fully grok the question. You can find the max current that can be generated from the stator in the technical specifications. How much is needed by the bike depends on what you turn on. And as I stated at the bottom of the first post in this thread, anything more than a stock Venture with Yamaha Yamaha driving lights added is too much (when the carb heaters are on too). Goose
  21. V7Goose
    The signature, along with any other information, such as your location or bike type, is done in the User Control Panel. Just scroll this page to the top and click on "User CP" at the top of the left column. When that page opens, just click on "Edit Your Details" in the same column. Goose
  22. V7Goose
    Yes, I noted that, but after extensive testing, I have determined that the narrower front tire is a poor choice on this bike under most conditions, especially if the rear is raised. Before I went that route I'd think about putting an Avon Venom on the front and the Conti on the back. Goose
  23. V7Goose
    I just looked at the Continental web site again for both of the tires they specify for our bikes. I find it interesting to note that they no longer specify mounting the "rear type" 150/80-16 backwards in the front. Instead, they have made a very subtle change and show the tires in that size (and ONLY that size) as Universal fitment instead of front or rear. Even so, they are either TL17 or CM2 tires, which are all labeled as rear tires in any other size. I'm not saying that this is either good or bad, just an interesting note. Personally, I am still hesitant to not have the front tire tread design on the front, but I'd like to hear an evaluation of them from someone who has actually run a set. Goose
  24. V7Goose
    Maybe a smart move for you, but NOT for me. Any tire in the proper load rating for the machine is technically as safe as any other, so any suggestion of reinforcement is meaningless to me. Tread patterns have a LOT to do with handling in different conditions, and on motorcycles, handling is where the safety or danger really lies. And your comments about tread design and the reason for reversing the tire are wrong. the tread patterns are NOT simply reversed; they are different - just looking at them will tell you that. The front treads are different shape for handling reasons. The rear tire is reversed when mounted on the front because of the way the belts overlap. Rear tires have their stress forces applied from the tire to the ground during acceleration, but front tires have the stress forces applied from the ground to the tire during braking. Reversing the tire keeps those stress forces applied to the belts in the same way. A little research on the tire manufacturer sites will tell you that. You get to put what you want on your bike, but I'll stick with motorcycle tires mounted in the proper position on mine when riding on two wheels. Goose
  25. V7Goose
    I looked at those several years ago - really wanted to try them, but they do not make a front tire in our size. Their fitment guide suggests putting on a rear tire mounted in reverse. I tried to contact the company with questions on that, since I have serious doubts about their claims of specially matched tread designs in one place, and then their suggestion that it really didn't matter some where else. The company chose to never respond to me, so I chose to not buy their product. Goose
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