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frankd

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  1. frankd
    Tomorrow (Friday) morning, Barb and I are heading on another trip. First off, we'll be heading down to south of Nashville to watch our grandson quarterback his grade school football team. (ScarryLarry---it's the weekend again, and I suppose you're busy.) We'll visit there, and then Sunday afternoon head back up to near Cairo, IL and meet our friends at their house (they ride a '12 Wing). Monday morning the 4 of us will head west. We're heading to Albuquerque by Oct. 6 so we can see the start of the Balloon Fiesta, but seeing that we have some 'extra' time, we plan on heading for Colorado Springs and doing some riding in southwest Colorado. I'd like to go up on Pike's Peak, if the weather is cooperating---I've head that they have the road completely paved now. It's been at least 15 years since we've been in this area, so maybe we'll visit Cripple Creek on the way west, and then ride over Wolf Creek Pass. After we get to Albuquerque, we're thinking of riding south and doing some site seeing there. I'd kind of like to see Roswell. Our friends have to be home by the 11th, so our route back home is still unplanned. The weather looks good now, so we should have a great trip. Frank D.
  2. frankd
    Some of the heat comes from the gears turning in the 80-90W and in the process causing the oil to move or flow. This is known as pumping loss. Synthetic lubricant does reduce the heat. It won't run cold though.....But I did notice a difference when I put synthetic in mine. Frank D.
  3. frankd
    Hogchain, You need to add step #16....change the oil. Glad you got it running good.... Frank D.
  4. frankd
    EBC's web site (ebcbrakes.com) has a lot of info on brakes. The part number for regular pads is FA123, and the sintered pads are FA123HH. The sintered HH pad have a higher coefficient of friction, but depending on who you believe, may also wear the rotors a bit quicker. They are great for heavy use, and were designed for race bikes originally. The conventional pads have a slightly lower coefficient of friction, but they're the equivalent of original pads. I use conventional pads in my front brakes, but because I've got an R1 caliper on the rear, Skydoc suggested using the HH pads. My last set of rears lasted about 24,000 miles Frank D.
  5. frankd
    Here's a wiring diagram for the cassette wiring.... White - 12V Gray - Enable Radio (connect to the White wire to make radio work. Black - Audio common Brown - Audio Left Blue - Audio Right Red - 6Volts -- Unknown use but a good source for the voltage needed to trip the CB mute Yellow -- Unknown green -- Unknown (Tim Gray previously posted this) What I did to mine was remove the cassette deck, and install an aluminum plate to cover the hole and give me someplace to hold the Ipod. Then I added a relay and a switch to handle the control functions. When I was doing some research for another Venturerider, I found a 3PDT (3 pole double throw) switch available at Fry's that would also switch between the radio and the Ipod (or MP3). Here's the info on that, including some pictures how I did mine. http://venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=41100&highlight=deck When I first installed my IPOD, the the treble was high (especially on the helmet speakers), even with the tone control all the way down. IPODs have equalization built in, and mine had been set to 'FLAT'. I switched it to 'small speakers', and this cut the treble and boosted the bass and made it virtually the same as the radio. Depending on your ears and helmet speakers you may have to do something also. I don't think most MP3's have adjustable equalization (I may be wrong), so if it bothers you, you could install small capacitors across the audio lines from the cassette deck, but their size is going have be selected by trial and error. I know you said you're not into electrical, but this isn't a difficult job.
  6. frankd
    If you fill it to the fill hole, it'll be way high. Do you normally fill MK I shaft units to the top? On my 83, I always fill it to the full line on the dipstick that is in the MK I toolkits. Frank D.
  7. frankd
    Well Mini, I was wondering how you could say "when Deadwood shuts down for the night, that's it"........It's probably a bit chilly up in Deadwood S.D. now also. Frank D.
  8. frankd
    It may be in 2 gears at once. Look at the gears and verify that you only have 1 engaged at a time as you shift the gears. Is it possible that you have a wrong shift fork installed? If not, you probably have something installed wrong so that it's binding the gears. Frank D.
  9. frankd
    I would say that all the plug caps, wires, and coil secondaries are fine. All 4 on my 1st Gens measure virtually identical. Over 10K ohm is bad for the plug cap itself, but when you measure them with the coil attached, you are also measuring the coil secondary. For both of them 21.3Kohm is fine. I don't see where you've checked that cylinder for spark. Pull the plug cap off the bad cylinder, and temporarily install a new spark plug into the wire. Make sure the base of the plug is grounded and start the bike, and look at the spark. If it's a nice strong, blue spark, you have something else wrong. Fouling like you have comes from excessive oil in the cylinder, a rich mixture, very weak spark, or a real cold spark plug. You know you have the correct spark plug installed, so cross that off. If the spark is strong, cross that off also. Leaves a rich mixture (high float, leaking needle & seat, or starting jet stuck open, jet falling out) or oil contamination. Does the bike use oil (I mean like a quart every couple of hundred miles or worse)? Probably not. Then you have a carb problem. As RSTDog said, after it's fixed, change the oil. But don't ride it like it is because oil thinned with unburnt gasoline will cause the motor and transmission to wear quickly. Frank D.
  10. frankd
    No, 50 ohms is the impedance (similiar to resistance) to the CB ouput power, so 50 ohms is only to a 27 MHZ signal. With an ohmeter, you should measure very low resistance to the bottom section of the antenna from the coax that attaches to the output of the matchbox. The loading coil will have some dc resistance, so if you measure to the top section, you will measure a little more. I'd expect you to measure less than 5 ohms. Actually the 50 ohms impedance you were referring to is at the coax that connects to the CB. Because the antenna itself is non-resonant and a matchbox is used, the coax between the matchbox and the antenna will have a different impedance. The cb is designed to have that 50 ohm load connected to it. The swr meter measures the difference between what is actually connected to the cb and that 50 ohm value. To use the swr bridge correctly, disconnect the coax at the cb itself. Connect this coax to the jack on the swr bridge that is marked antenna or output. Using a short coax jumper (made with RG-58, RG-8X, or RG-8 coax) connect it between the cb and the jack on the SWR bridge marked transmitter or input. You could take your ohmeter and make sure you have a good jumper===from the center of one connector to the other you should have very low resistance. The same for the outside of each connector to the other outside. And from the center to the outside (shield) you should NOT have continuity. Put the CB on a center channel, and with the switch on the swr bridge in the FORWARD position, key the CB and adjust the control on the SWR bridge so that the meter indicates full scale. Turn the switch to REVERSE and key the transmitter. Now you can read your SWR. If you get an swr of less than infinity, repeat at channel 1 and channel 40. To adjust the matchbox, install a top section in the antenna, and with the swr bridge connected as above, adjust the trimmer that you can get to through the hole in the matchbox. Look in the hole and you can see a small screwdriver slot. Probably the best way for you would be to mark where the trimmer is now. Then turn it slightly and measure the swr. Then repeat that until you get the lowest swr available. Frank D.
  11. frankd
    It sounds to me that this is the problem. The 2nd gear problem in the early Ventures won't leave you stranded. The damper gear however, could leave you with 6 neutrals and on the side of the road. You're going to have to take it apart and see what's up. Frank D.
  12. frankd
    The tip on my 89 is 18 7/8" from the ball to about 3/8" below the set screw. Are you checking the swr in the garage? You need to be over a 1/4 wave (108" @ 27 MHZ) away from everything, so take the bike outside. Also, on mine, the matchbox doesn't work that great. Mine has a low swr on channel 1, but it's over 3:1 on channel 40, and I can't get the matchbox to adjust. I'd shorten the top section a bit, but the setscrew is frozen. I just leave it alone because it works good enough this way. That brings up something.....Because the antenna works for AM, FM and CB, it isn't resonant at 27MHZ. That means that Yammie had to use a matchbox to get it to work. That matchbox is in the coax that connects to the CB. Have you been adjusting the matchbox OR just checking the SWR with the temporary antenna top section? Cut a wire to 18 7/8" and install it. Take the bike outside and check the SWR on channels 1, 20, and 40. If the antenna loads at all (less than infinite swr) anywhere in the CB band, that should let you know what to do next. With the original length top section, I'd probably try to adjust the matchbox next. Frank D.
  13. frankd
    Yes, but make sure you have the washer also.....otherwise the the spring will push the filter grommet out (ask me how I know). With the bolt in the filter cover, first goes the spring, then the washer, and then the oil filter. Frank D.
  14. frankd
    My name's not Gary but I did stay at a Holiday Express.... Yes, it probably would make the bike stumble. You had a cylinder that was very rich, and when you would floor it, it probably would clean out somewhat. Between the diaphragms and the jet, it'll run WAY different now. Frank D.
  15. frankd
    Something else I've done to tilt the bike to the right is to put it on the center stand, and then put something about 1" thick under the left center stand leg. I just rock the bike to the right and slip the shim under the center stand leg with my foot. This is also enough to get the oil to the right so you can pull the left front engine cover (stator replacement) and leave the oil in the engine. Although I think you may need it tilted further to the right to look up the bottom of the middle gear cover, and that's why I suggested a floor jack. Frank D.
  16. frankd
    Derek, Thanks for the info, especially showing us how the bearing info is hidden in the Yammie p/n. That will help over and over!! Frank D.
  17. frankd
    Bob, In view of the fact that 1 cylinder has been flooded with a lot of gasoline, I'd also change the oil after you get the carb. fixed. Frank D.
  18. frankd
    If you pull the rubber cover for the slave cylinder bleeder and also look up from the bottom, you can get a pretty good idea where it's coming from. To look up from the bottom, it helps to tilt the bike to the right, and I've used a floor jack to do this. Before you pull the middle gear cover, make sure you don't just have a valve cover gasket leak. In addition to the slave cylinder, it could be the neutral light switch, the slave cylinder or the stator or ignition pickup coil wiring leaking at the grommets. Frank D.
  19. frankd
    I agree with Gary...sounds like something in the shaft drive. Frank D.
  20. frankd
    Paul, Do you have the part number for the front wheel bearings (I've got the right rear bearing number)? How about the seal numbers also? Frank D.
  21. frankd
    If you take the tail lamps out and disconnect the anti dive solenoids, the only thing you have left (I think) that normally draws current is the anti dive relay, and it shouldn't draw very much current. For the headlight to light brightly you will have at least 5 amps flowing. If the headlight glows bright, you still have a short circuit. To give you an idea of what the headlight will do, connect it accross the fuse before you disconnect anything OR pull the tail lights. Because you know it would blow the fuse, the headlight will come on bright when you step on the brakes. Now start disconnecting things, and when you get to a point that the headlight doesn't glow bright when you step on the brakes, you will know what's causing your problem. Frank D.
  22. frankd
    I don't know about what can be used to replace the seals, but.....you can tighten up the bags somewhat. Move the latches inward a bit. As I remember you have to take the latchtes off (2 screws each) and then enlongate the hoses so they move inward a bit. Or, if you weld you can build up the latch a little so it holds the bag closed tighter. Frank D.
  23. frankd
    It'll fit fine. Frank D.
  24. frankd
    Dan, Either you have a wire that has the insulation worn and is touching the frame, a brake light socket that has fallen apart, OR if you're lucky a shorted brake light lamp itself. The first thing to do would be to remove both brake lights and look at the filaments. IF they're both OK, leave them out for now. Then take the seat off and inspect the wiring harness. Next unplug the tailight. Then unplug the fork anti dive solenoids. 2 other possibilities are that one of your brake switches has fallen apart or the anti dive solenoid relay has a shorted coil (unlikely). Does you bike have any added brake lights? If so, this wiring would likely be the problem Doing all these tests is going to blow a lot of fuses. To avoid this, you can take an old car headlight, and connect jumpers to 2 of the pins. Touch the jumper leads to the positive and negative battery terminals (car or motorcycle) and verify that the headlight lights bright. If it lights dim, move one of the jumpers on the headlight to the other terminal. Then connect the jumpers to both fuse terminals (no fuse installed). What the headlight will do is 1)light when a lot of current is flowing and you can tell that the fuse would blow if it was installed. 2)Limit the current (no damage). 3) Save a lot of fuses and money.
  25. frankd
    The 83 has the original bearings in the front wheel....140,000 miles. I'm thinking that I really should change those though. I've had more problems with the rear wheel bearings than the front. There's a lot more weight, heat, and dirt in the rear. There was a Venture bearing interchange chart going around (I don't remember if it was here or somewhere else) for the 1st Gens. I purchased the right rear wheel bearing (not the needle bearing) from Motion Industries (an industrial supply house) for about 1/3 of what Yammie wanted. Do the 2nd Gens. use different front bearings than the 1st Gens? The left rear wheel bearing (the needle bearing) on the 1st and 2nd Gens are the same, so that means the right rear is 'Probably' the same. Frank D.
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