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frankd

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Everything posted by frankd

  1. frankd
    Orlin, I agree with Gary....If the bike overheated drastically, the front gasket would have been stressed also. I see that you have the engine in the bike, but.....it's a gamble if you don't change the front head gasket. Frank D.
  2. frankd
    28MPG is pretty low, and it's not the diaphragms causing that. It almost sounds like you're missing a cylinder, and it's not the carb. causing it. Are you 100% sure it's running on all 4? If it is, are you leaking gas somewhere? Do you have a dragging brake (that'd get real hot!)? When you get 28 MPG, how are you riding? A vacuum leak in the hose to the boost sensor causes the mileage to go down 4-5 MPG. To check this, hook up a vacuum testor (a Mighty-vac or equiv.) to the hose, start the bike and have somebody hold the engine speed @ 3000 RPM. Then pump up the vacuum....the engine should speed up, and the vacuum reading should hold. If you have a leak, check the first section of hose (between the engine port and the restrictor) first. Another thought.....how do your plugs look? If it's that rich, you will have dark plugs. Frank D.
  3. frankd
    Don't just change the regulator, because the regulator is probably the most reliable part of the charging system. First inspect the plugs that connect the regulator to the stator and bike wiring, looking for burnt connections (discolored). If that's OK, check the stator. There are a lot of articles here about checking the stator. Make sure you also check it go ground though.....a lot of stators become grounded, and they are ungrounded. This reduces the output. If the stator is good, then you probably need a regulator, but I've also written several times how to check the regulator. http://venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=70288&highlight=regulator Frank D.
  4. frankd
    Any chance those diaphragms were repaired with RTV or something that won't hold up in gasoline?? Mine had holes in them also, but were still reasonably clean. Now I've heard that replacing bad diaphragms would increase gas mileage, but I'm not certain that it did on mine. I'll have more to say about that after I finish the next tank of gas. Before I fixed mine, the gas mileage was about 42 normal riding and 40 MPG @72mph (cruise on 75). Good diaphrams made it sound a lot different (quieter) and also smoothed it out a lot. It also made it faster. Frank D.
  5. frankd
    13.2 volts is way too low--your battery can hardly charge. The Gen 1 spec. is 14.5 plus or minus .5 volts @ 3000 RPM. Most usually are about 14.2, and my 89 is 14.43V. As I remember, the 2nd Gen spec. is 14.1-14.9 @ 3000 RPM. Seeing that you don't have a tachometer, 3000 RPM is a medium engine speed, or about what you have going down the road. Idle voltage isn't part of the specification, but my 89 is probably about 14.0@ idle. The 2nd gens might be a little lower @ idle, due to the driving lights being ON. Frank D.
  6. frankd
    Welcome to VentureRIders. Here you will find others that can answer almost any question (motorcycle or not) question you have. This is a great place to spend $12. Your thermostat housing leak could be caused by a couple of things. Before you pull the top half off, notice if the top is completely in the bottom half. If so, I'd replace the O-ring. When I bought my 89, the thermostat housing top half was warped, so I replaced it and the O-ring. It only helped for a little while. My new housing was starting to warp. I looked at how the 2 bolts held it together and decided that I needed to spread the force a little. I made up 2 pieces that hugged as much of the top half ridge as possible. Think of it as oddball shaped washers. I made it out of steel hat was about 1/16" thick. Since then, mine has been dry. Another person on this site made it in 1 piece, but I didn't see much benefit of doing so, so I made it in 2 pieces. I may have pictures of the brackets I made on my other computer....I'll check Someplace else to look for loose bolts is: Remove the 2 bolts holding the right footpeg on and you will find bolts under it that hold the frame together. You will also have to remove the brake master cylinder lever to get the footpeg out of the way. Before you do, look at how the dot on the shaft is lined up with the slit in the lever so you get it back on in the correct position. In an early service bulletin, Yammie wanted all of the dealers to check them for tightness at every service. As for the tires.......Those of us that want them to handle good use Avons. Frank D.
  7. frankd
    It looks like Mk I & MK II use the same boost sensor. Yammie wants $177 (including 20% off) for one of these!!!! Did you check it at the hose, or did you go to the sensor itself? Mine had the first section of hose split. The hose that goes to the intake port is what I call the first section, then there is a restricter, and then the 2nd section of hose that goes to the sensor. On my 83, the sensor was mounted right next to the ignition module (left side). Frank
  8. frankd
    The water pump shaft has a drain, so it is unlikely that that is your problem. It sounds like your coolant system was very low and has a lot of air in it. However, if the coolant is getting into the oil, that makes it more serious. There is what some call a 'twinkie' in the 'V' between the cylinder banks, on the right side. There is an Oring or seal in it that has leaked on some bikes. You can see where the coolant hoses go to it. It also could be a blown head gasket. This has also happened to a couple of Ventures. You could pull the spark plugs and see if any are real clean. If they look like they're brand new, that's the cylinder that's leaking. To get all the air (or combustion gas) out of the coolant system, you need to turn the thermostat bypass to the bypass position. This bypass is in front of the motor, just a little above the oil filter, and it has an approx. 3/4" hex head on it. It should be in the normal position now. Take a marker that you can see (red or white?) and mark the hex so you'll know where the normal position is. Then turn the hex either way until you feel the indent again. This will be the bypass position and now the coolant will circulate freely and all of the air can work out. Usually I have the radiator cap off when I do this. BTW, make sure the radiator is FULL before you run the air out. After you get the air out, you can turn the bypass valve back to the normal position (where you marked it). If the oil level goes up, you are getting coolant in the crankcase. Coolant in the oil will trash the bearings and the motor will be history. I don't mean to scare you, but don't ignore this. Frank D.
  9. frankd
    Mine on the 89 holds vacuum perfectly. Frank D.
  10. frankd
    The sensor (aka 'Boost sensor') should hold a perfect vacuum. That includes the hoses and the sensor itself. If it leaks, it'll lean that cylinder out!! On my 89, the hose that attaches to the intake port had split (the first section). Frank D.
  11. frankd
    This is a replay from the other place you had this topic... Seeing that the cassette is also distorted, you probably have a bad amplifier module, but it'd be best if you could find another 1st. Gen (83-93) Venture and temporarily swap control panels (the top piece that comes off with the key). There is a slight chance that your volume control (in the control panel) went bad. When I bought my 89, one channel had the volume control messed up. The reason I asked about the headphones is that they have a slightly different path, including their own amplifiers. The amplifier module is located underneath the rubber cover, and it's the outer chassis. The inner chassis is the tuner, and if the cassette is also distorted the tuner probably is fine. Take the control panel off and inspect the 2 connectors as suggested. Then you'll have to find another Venture or purchase another amplifier (EBAY). See if you can borrow a set of helmet speakers.....2nd Gen Ventures use the same helmet gear. Frank D.
  12. frankd
    Kirby, He's a 'trial' member, so he may not understand how to use Seafoam for this. You could make a cover out of electrical tape and see how that sounds. Use only 1 layer though. Frank D.
  13. frankd
    Does your cassette work?? Is it distorted also?? Do you have a set of helmet speakers?? Are they distored?? Frank D.
  14. frankd
    In addition to loose steering head bearings and swing arm bearings, some tires make this a lot worse. Both my 83 (purchased new) and my 89 (bought 4 years ago) had Bridgetone front tires on them when purchased. They both had a tendency to wobble a bit here and there. When I put Elite II's on the 83, that tendency was gone. It was fine with Metzlers and Avons also. With Avon's on my 89, it feels great, but then I don't take both hands off the handlebars either. Frank D.
  15. frankd
    Bill, The port rubber plugs on my 89 have dried out and cracked, and after 3 years the replacements have cracked also. In fact.....this morning, Barb and I rode to J.C. Whitney's to pick up a set of rain boots, and stopped for lunch. When we came out, the bike backfired when I started it. On the way home, I noticed that the idle was a bit low, and the one cylinder dropped out when you took off, and then came back to life when you hit the throttle somewhat. I just installed new diaphragms and set up the carbs, so I figured I had one of the idle mixtures set a bit lean. Well, I pulled the sidecovers and found that one of the rubber plugs was missing---it blew off when the bike backfired. The brass port measures 5mm or .200". At Advance Auto and Autozone, they don't carry 3/16" Rubber plugs. I went to O'Reily's and they had 3/16" Doorman plugs. The last time I bought them at Pep Boys. Now, my 83 with 140,000 miles on it is still on the originals, and they are still in good shape. I guess the Mk II bikes get a bit hotter with the side covers closed. I'll bet they get a lot hotter in Arizona. You asked about the vacuum readings....I don't have a Carbtune, so I have no idea what scale it uses. My antique vacuum gauge setup indicates a little over 10" of mercury on my 89, and about 9.5" on my 83. I did find a conversion web site, and it gave the following... 10.25 inch of mercury [0 °C] = 34.710 483 834 kilonewton/square meter OR 32 kilonewton/square meter = 9.449 594 582 8 inch of mercury [0 °C] I set mine @ 1000 RPM Frank D.
  16. frankd
    Also make certain that the battery cables are tight----they seem to loosen over time. Frank D.
  17. frankd
    I agree the CB has it's uses, so I wouldn't want to eliminate mine either. In 2 weeks we've got a long trip planned with another bike and the CB is great for that. Seeing that your 2mtr. rig is in the back, yes, the passenger intercom plug might be a good way to get the audio from the bike to the rig (both TX & RX). There is a plug under the seat that goes to the rear intercom panel. You could make a 'Y' plug and then the 2 mtr rig could be used even when the passenger intercom is being used. For the TX audio, you will need an attenuator, and also may have to change the equalization, but you will have to see how it sounds. I think I might break the bike PTT wire to the CB, and insert a double pole switch to change the PTT between the CB and the 2 mtr rig. Then I would look into how the tx audio gets into the CB and see if I could use that for the 2mtr. rig. That would mean running a shielded cable to the 2 mtr rig from the front of the bike. I would try some of that small diameter RF cable because the shielding is better than audio cable and the capacitance is lower. To avoid the missed audio caused by using the intercom to get the RX audio into the bike, I do have an idea for a circuit I've been planning on building to get the GPS audio to mute the FM radio when the lady in the GPS talks (and also input the GPS audio to the bike system). The CB rx audio mutes the FM radio when the CB is unsquelched. I think that Tim talked about how this was done earlier in this message, but basically the CB squelch circuit has to provide a DC signal to switch the FM radio on and off. It probably pulls a DC level provided by the radio to ground when the CB is unsquelched. If you took an OP amp, then rectified and filtered it's output you would have a DC signal present when there was audio input. Take this DC signal and create a circuit to pull the DC signal down from the bike audio system that will cause it to turn the FM off and open the audio input from the CB. Then you could parallel the RX audio from the 2 mtr. rig and the CB. Then audio from the 2 mtr rig could be heard over the bikes system. If you kept the gain high on the added op amp, the 'click' of the 2mtr RX audio coming on would switch the FM rig off. If this isn't enough, you could add a PL tone, even though you are using simplex.---that'd do it for sure. You would have to size the filter you use for this circuit so that it switches back to FM after a proper delay and doesn't switch between words or stay switched for a long time. Frank KA9J
  18. frankd
    I run mine in the summer without it, and use it in cooler weather. It does block some of the air going over your feet. Frank D.
  19. frankd
    There is no low oil pressure warning on a Venture, only oil level. That being said, there is no way it'd run 150 miles without oil pressure and not lock up. As soon as you lost all oil pressure, it would start making knocking noises, and they'd get worse and worse until you threw a rod or it locked up. The only way you will be able to tell for certain if you had no oil pressure would be to drop the pan and pull a rod bearing cap and inspect the bearing. If you can replace the damaged oil pump drive gears without pulling the motor, I suppose you could fix that, then run the engine and see how it sounds. Then drain the oil through a rag and see if there are bearing particles in the oil. Also inspect the oil filter element. 200,000 miles isn't end of these engines.....there used to be one on a different web site that had 340,000 miles on it before it got totaled by a lady hitting it in a parking lot. However, if you do have to do that fun job of pulling the motor again, by all means find a lower mileage 1300. Frank D.
  20. frankd
    Here is the cassette color code that Tim wrote about in June of 2009 in this post. White - 12V Gray - Enable Radio (connect to the White wire to make radio work. Black - Audio common Brown - Audio Left Blue - Audio Right Red - 6Volts -- Unknown use but a good source for the voltage needed to trip the CB mute Yellow -- Unknown green -- Unknown The impedance of these inputs is problaby 50 Kohm, and it'll take about .5 VAC to drive the amps. Wouldn't it be better to use the CB input/output from the amplifier module?? That would let your PTT on you handlebar work (and also the helmet mics and spkrs.) The PTT line gets grounded when you push the button, so that should be the same as the Icom. Or did you want to preserve the 11 Mtr rig? Frank D. KA9J
  21. frankd
    I think that was Arco Graphite. Arco used to be a gas station chain. They drained the oil and drove in New York city, and I think it was in a taxi. Frank d.
  22. frankd
    Something else we forgot to talk about......On my 1st Gens, I use 3.5 quarts of oil, and I think that 2nd Gens are the same. You don't want to over-fill these motors. Frank D.
  23. frankd
    My current rear tire on my 89 is an Avon with about 8kmiles and it's 3 months old, and it still looks great. My front is also an Avon, and it has about 12Kmiles and it's 18 months old----still fine. But then I've been using Avons for about 10-11 years, and I've never had cracking problems. Some have been on the 83 for 6 years and 24,000 miles, and except for being worn still look great. Actually the worst problem I've had with Avons is that they attract nails, expecially when they're new. Frank D.
  24. frankd
    Yes, that'll be fine oil (Rotella 15W-40). Check the price at Wal-Mart before you guy it at Advance Auto. Frank D.
  25. frankd
    Tim, Well, congrats on your new job.....I hope. OK on the print. It "appears" that I have cured the regulator noise problem. Every time I'd taken the radio out and then re-installed it, the noise would get better....at first. Then I'd hit a bump and it'd come back. Last Saturday I had the left fairing piece off the bike, and the tuner and amp. modules hooked up on a table set next to the bike. I was trying to determine what was intermittent on the replacement radio I'd purchased. I tightened the PC board mounting screws, and I couldn't get it to quit working any longer. I had the tuner and amp grounded through jumpers, and when I touched one of the jumpers, the radio made some noises. I moved the jumper around, and I found that it had a hard time making to the case. I took my original amplifier and with my Dremmel, I cleaned the coating off a small spot on the case, and then soldered a wire to the case of both the amp. and the tuner. I put a terminal on the other end (also soldered) and then used the mounting bolt to connect to the bike frame. Previously I'd added another ground wire to a different bolt on the frame. It's been great for the last week. I don't know for sure if the replacement is fixed, but as long as my original setup works, I'm happy. Did you know that there are 2 different radios in First Gens? The replacement tuner and amp. had part numbers that were lower than my original(replacement amp 26H-88132-00, orig. is -01----replacement tuner 26H88132-00, orig -02). The high frequency response wasn't as good on the older unit. The replacement came off an 87, and mine is an 89. On the surface, they look identical, so maybe the equalization is the only difference in the amp. I have no idea what's different in the tuner. The replacement tuner wasn't as sensitive on FM as the original, but I figure that's because of alignment. Frank D.
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