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roehlerich

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About roehlerich

  • Birthday October 6

Personal Information

  • Name
    Ralf Oehlerich

location

  • Location
    Collegeville, PA, United States

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  • City
    Collegeville, PA

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  • Home Country
    United States

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  • Bike Year and Model
    1985 XVZ1200
  1. I have the vacuum hose connected to the intake boot. That is correct? The smaller nipple is at the top on front left carb just like the fatter one was. I am using the 83 carbs on this bike. Have not taking it out yet but they seem to be fine. Just weird that the slides are just a little different. The springs are not interchangeable either for the slides. One set is a little wider in diameter and will not fit into the 83 slides.
  2. Update: Got a second set of Carbs as previsously mentioned from FleeBay. They are exactly the same BUT the slides are not. They bind up when trying to push them in if you are mixing them up like I did. So I got the 4 correct slides, ripped 2 diaphragms trying to take them off the wrong ones to move them over to the right ones (waiting for 2 replacements) but the bike now starts, runs and idles with 2 new and 2 old (repaired with sealant for now) diaphragms. Another interesting issue is that the Fleebay carbs do not have a FAT nipple on the front left Carb like the original set does but a thinner one. I have the CA carbon filter canister on my bike. So I just made it fit and kept the canister for now. I did not do a full carbs rebuild but just a cleaning of the idle jets. I did not pull the choke or small diaphragms apart since the first one I looked at was good. Thanks to all for your help. Could not have done it without you. 108k miles on this baby. Now I just need to see why I have no rear brake. :-) One thing at a time...
  3. Update: Installed new diaphragms today but the result is the same. I touch the throttle, the rpms bog down. carbs are synced. This happened to the PO on a ride on is way home. All of a sudden bike would not run right. I guess I have to completely take the carbs apart and check the intake boots for cracks as well.
  4. I am hoping the new diaphragms will do the trick. The old ones are dry and probably do not pull properly under low throttle. But you are right, they should not be in play at idle at all.
  5. OK. Got the last OLD diaphragm out and install another one of my siliconed one. Synced the carbs. Idles better but again, only under choke. I can get it to rev up to about 5k when pushing the throttle quickly past the dead point. If I move it slowly the bike dies. Revs evenly under choke up/down so I think the choke passages in the carbs are fine. I will wait for the new diaphragms and slip them in. Also installed new plugs just to be sure. If all else fails, I will pull the carbs again and check the jets.
  6. I knew these bikes were complex, but OMG this is very detailed info and I really appreciate it. I will pull the battery box and see if there are any hoses going up into the right side of the fairing from where? I did not take the carbs completely apart. I onlt seperated each pair so that I could open up one bowl and check the condition. The intake boot between the carbs and cylinder look fine. I think you are talking about the O-ring between the boot and cylinder, right? I never took the boots off. The guy I bought it from said it was running fine and all of a sudden it ran like crap. He took it to the shop, they pulled the carbs and they said the diphragms were bad. I do not think that they even opening all 4 slide covers. I still have one that has 3 stripped screws. But the 3 I took out did have small holes and were very dry. I guess I will have to do a full inspection of all jets and such on the spare set of carbs I have to see what might be wrong. Putting these carbs back onto the bike was not fun by myself. And the throttle cables are a real PITA.
  7. Yes, I do have one hose come from the intake boot on the front left cylinder going up somewhere. I assume that is to the cruise control. The hose to the vaccum canister is coming from the carb itself. I just ordered the Diaphragms today. She starts and runs but not evenly on all 4 and only with choke. I will try to adjust the idle and sync the carbs while I am waiting for the diaphragms. I did not clean the carbs since they were dry and the first one I took apart was perfectly fine. Are there any idle jets I can get to now that the carbs are back on the bike to see why she won't idle right?
  8. Ok, now this is interesting. I have a canister as you show it, but I did not attach the hose to the bottom of the canister bacuase of where it mounts to the frame. The picture confirms that I have the second hose correctly connected to the left front carb. The PDF you sent me shows that the drain hose from the T-piece goes back up to the air box. So there are 2 hoses coming down from the air box. One in the front and one in the back. No idea why the canister you show has a hose attached to the bottom bec ause the nipple sits firm against the frame when you mount it. I will go with the PDF version and run the hose up the air box. I did pull the diaphragms and use some silicone to fill the holes. The plastic is very dry on all 8 diaphragms I have. I bought a second set of carbs hoping the diaphragms would be better. I used the best 4. I will try to sync the carbs to make them run a little better. No idea why it wont idle at all without choke. I am running only on the two left cylinders until the other 2 kick in. I check the jets and they all looked good so I did not bother cleaning them.
  9. I am down to just one hose coming from the crank case t split going out on the left side. No place to connect that. I had one hose from the canister that connected to the front left cylinder carb on the bottom. The bottom canister does not connect to anything, right? Bike only runs on heavy choke and will not rev even when warm. Will buy new diaphragms now. Mine are pretty dry.
  10. I just picked up an 85 with carbs removed. I am not sure if i have all the hoses correctly routed and the book is no help. I also need some help on how to best press the carb bodies back onto the boots by myself in 40 degree weather. I see only 3 hoses on the upper section coming from under the seat that i believe should connect to the 4 carb air vents on the carb bowls that are on a 45 degree angle. I do have the 4 little drain hoses on the bottom. I also have the canister on the left side that is not completely connected. Any help with all these hoses would be appreciated I have worked many bikes but do not see how i can easily press these carbs back into place. Any suggestions besides brute force?
  11. I do not have a CB unit and no headsets either. UPDATE: I removed the radio control unit and saw some rub marks on the wiring harness below. I blow out the connectors again with electric parts cleaner and bent the wiring harness and pushed it out of the way. Distortion is now much less and volume levels are normal (about 1 o'clock when riding on the volume dial).
  12. You took the radio unit or the control unit apart or just cleaned all the connectors?
  13. I posted this in the audio thread but wanted to throw this out here and see if anyone had the same issue. I just picked up my 85 and installed a new set of 100W speakers since the old ones sounded like the cones were dried out. Well that was a waste of time and money. The new ones sound the same. It is very distorted and the bass and lower frequencies are the worse. The volume also appears to be very high. What would make the system distort and sound like broken speaker mebranes. Sounds the same with AM/FM/Casette. I do not have headsets. I do notice that when I walk around the bike with the radio on that the FM signal varies. Not sure how to improve that as well. AM/FM switch on the control unit does not work. I have to turn the radio on and off and then sometimes it changes between AM/FM.
  14. Cassette works. Same think. No helmet speakers to connect.
  15. I am new to the Venture riders and working on a weird audio issue. I just went and bought 100W expensive speakers and still have the same issue. I have a distortion noise regardless of source. The volume is very loud and the bass makes the noise worse. It sounded like busted speakers, that is why I bought them new. I just got the bike last week. 1985 model. Also, my AM/FM switch does not work but when I turn the radio on and off it sometime changes from AM to FM. The tuning controls on the handlebar work. Any idea what might be distorting the audio (crackeling like ripped speakers). And what can I do about it? It is not RPM specific. It is always there. Thanks
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