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frankd

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Everything posted by frankd

  1. frankd
    Any chance Locktite has been used?? If so, heat the threads up with a propane torch. Frank D.
  2. frankd
    I wish we could hear the noise......why don't you post a video with sound. I just got finished replacing bad carburetor diaphragms on the 89, and when I started it up the first time, it sounded like it was going to come apart. What I found was that the cylinders were way out of balance (syncronization). 2 of my cylinders were almost shut off, so the bike was idling basically on 2 cylinder--I had synced it with a couple of leaky diaphragms, and now that was fixed so the idle speed for those cylinders was wrong. What this caused was the engine speeding up and slowing down, causing the normal play in everything to go back and forth. It sounded nasty. Another way to explain this--when the 2 good cylinders would fire, the engine would instantaneously speed up, and then the 2 weak cylinders would drag it down again. Then the cycle would repeat over and over. After I syncronized the carbs, it sounded sweet. Are you sure your bike is running on all 4 cylinders, and that the carbs are synced? If the noise is heard when you are in gear and sitting still, it's NOT the transmission bearings. Can you tell which side the noise is coming from? Ventures don't have primary chains, the engine drives the clutch via gears on the right side. I suppose there is a possibility that your cam chain is loose, but it hasn't been a problem for Ventures. The cam chain is in the center of the motor. Frank D.
  3. frankd
    Yep--15W40 is fine. Yamalube used to be 20W-40. Frank D.
  4. frankd
    Noises are hard to diagnose by description. Maybe you could also record it and post the file so we all can hear it. Also, how many miles are on the bike, and what oil are you using? Does the clunking go away when the bike is in gear and the bike not moving?? Frank D.
  5. frankd
    A lot of Venture riders use 10W-40 diesel oil (Rotella or equiv) because it is a bit cheaper and does NOT have friction modifiers like car oil does. Also, the diesel oil has a higher level of zinc, which the bikes need to lower transmission wear. Some use Mobile 1, but I've never used synthetic engine oil. The easiest Motorcycle oil for me to find is Valvoline 10w-40. You can find it at Advance auto and also Farm & Fleet around here. It costs about $5/qt, and in an engine oil test I saw about a year ago, it had the lowest wear of any conventional oil tested. Then you have to find an oil filter......You can buy the Yamaha filter. I haven't bought them at my dealers for the last 15 years. When I used to buy them there, they were up to $12/each. I've also used the Fram 6002 filter cartridge, which is about $6 @ Farm and Fleet. Advance Auto and Auto Zone used to carry it for about the same price, but the last time I looked, it wasn't on the shelve with the other bike filters. Some people (including me) have had problems with the Fram car oil filters having cardboard spacers and being restrictive. The Fram 6002 bike filter is well made with as much filter media as the Yamaha filter. I wish I could find the Wix filter for our bikes, anybody have an idea where?? Also, how much are the dealers getting for Yamaha filters and Yamalube lately? Frank D.
  6. frankd
    Also, add the state to the town you live in. That way, we all will have a better idea where you're located. Frank D.
  7. frankd
    Tim, Did you ever get a print drawn up for the amplifier? Frank D.
  8. frankd
    Ventures don't have a solenoid like a GM car does, the starter drive is like a ratchet. Is the noise on the left side of the motor?? If so, your probably have the starter drive going bad. Dano has an upgraded custom starter drive that most of us install when we have this problem. You can just replace all the damaged parts with Yammie parts, but they will break again. Dano's system is bullet proof. Or is the noise just in front of the battery? http://venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=44547&highlight=starter Frank D.
  9. frankd
    Outkast, Seeing that your bike will crank, you know there is power to the R/W wire to the TCI. I don't remember which of you tried a new TCI, but if you haven't that's next. Then I'd either ground the black/white wire that goes to the fallover switch, or if you'd rather connect an external switch with the other side tied to ground to it--then when it won't start or goes dead, turn ON the external switch. I suppose you could also have an intermittent pick up coil. To test this, you'd have to measure it when the bike won't start. Another possibility -----I looked at the 2nd gen print, and it appears that the oil level light comes on when you're cranking the bike over. Does it? If so, next time it won't start, look at it and see if it's coming on. This will verify that your kill switch is making and your coils have 12 volts applied. Frank D.
  10. frankd
    I had the same problem with the orignal cables that came from my J&M helmet speakers/mike. First one became intermittant in the left channel, and then it quit completely. I swapped the cable between my helmet and my wifes, and yes, it was the short top cable that connects to the helmet plug. Mine were still under warranty (2 yrs.), so I called J&M and they told me to send it to them. About a week later a new one arrived. When my wife's went bad, (again the left channel), mine were out of warranty, but I called them anyway. Same routine....The told me to mail them my bad connector and a new one returned a week later, but no charge. Call J&M and see what they can do for you. Frank Warranty Registration for J&M Products How to contact J&M Phone Toll Free in U.S and Canada: 1-800-358-0881 Outside the U.S.A. 1-520-624-7000 FAX (24 hour) 1-520-624-6202 J&M Corporation 1415 South Cherry Avenue Tucson, Arizona 85713-1997 USA Hours of operation: Monday thru Friday 8:00 AM – 5:00 PM MST (closed Saturday, Sunday & Holidays)
  11. frankd
    Lil Beaver, If you know you have spark and it won't start, that narrow it down. Does the bike sound normal when you are cranking?? If so, you have normal compression, and that's good. If you don't have normal compression, it'll crank real fast. That leaves fuel. I've haven't worked very much on a 2nd gen, but if you can get to the carb air inlet without much problem, you could drip a small amount of fuel into the carbs and see if it starts, or at least fires. Before you dismiss this, 2nd Gens. have had a bit of a problem with intermittant fuel pumps. If that doesn't get you anywhere, I think the next thing to do is to verify that the spark is occuring at the right time......Connect a timing light to #1 cylinder and direct it at the timing mark on the left side of the engine. On a 1st. Gen, you take the chrome plug (approx 1" diameter) out on the left side of the crankshaft and from there you can see the timing marks. Frank
  12. frankd
    Have you verified that you have a spark problem for certain?? Next time these bikes won't start, take any one of the plug wires off and plug a spare spark plug in. Ground the base of the plug, crank it, and see if you do or do not have spark. Frank D.
  13. frankd
    Have you checked the fuel level in the float bowls?? Maybe the floats were all adjusted too low? Frank D.
  14. frankd
    Fantastic!!!! Thank you, Frank d.
  15. frankd
    Starting on Oct. 1st, Barb and I will be travelling with some friends, heading west from Illinois and ending up in Albuquerque in time for the Balloon Fiesta. Our daughter lives in Albuquerque, and we were out there last year for the Fiesta. We live in northern Illinois, and our friends live in the southern tip, so it'll probably be best for us to meet near St. Louis, and head west to Colorado Springs. I've already decided that I want to ride through Wolf Creek Pass (again), and then like C.W. Mcall says in the song, end up in downtown Pagosa Springs, and from there we'll travel down to Sante Fe, and into Albuquerque. Something else I'd like to do is to ride up Pikes Peak. Is this too late in the year to think of doing that on a bike, or is there a posibilty that the freshly paved road up will be snow free? Any other suggestions of things to do in south west Colorado? We went to Sante Fe & Los Alamos last year, but our friends have never stopped there, so that's a stop we'll take. Also in the plans are to ride south from Albuquerque and visit Roswell. Anybody know of anything else to see in New Mexico?? Frank D.
  16. frankd
    Mike, It is available from the dealers----this is my local dealers page, but wherever you buy your parts from will have it.... http://www.richsyamaha.com/pages/OemParts#/Yamaha/XVZ13DS_-_1986/REAR_MASTER_CYLINDER/XVZ13DS_(1986_MOTORCYCLE)/REAR_MASTER_CYLINDER_(XVZ13DS_-_1986) UPDATE--I just clicked on the URL above, and it doesn't quite work right. You have to clear out the 'try again' message, and then enter the bike data (motorcycle-1986-xvz13dc-rear master cylinder). It's item #2, and the p/n is 4W1-W0041-00-00. Google the p/n and tons of places that have it show up. Skydoc is very busy---he's still moving. He has been answering his emails when time is available. Frank D.
  17. frankd
    I use Pliobond----I bought it at Ace Hardware a while back. It comes in a bottle with a brush inside. Frank D.
  18. frankd
    Cruise control
  19. frankd
    Bob, I miss read your message when you said you jumpered the blue/white wire on the starter solenoid (aka starter relay). That does prove that your solenoid and starter are fine. Now disasemble the start push button and do the same test by grounding the blue/white wire at the start switch itself. I suspect it'll crank, but we need to know for certain. Frank D.
  20. frankd
    Yep, that's what it means. But as Flyin said, there is a slight chance that your black wire has a ground problem. Ground the black wire with the jumper and see if it cranks when you push the button. If not, take the switch apart again and see what's wrong. Before you put it back on the bike, take an ohmeter and connect it to black and blue/white. WHen you push the button, you sould have continuity. Frank D.
  21. frankd
    Bob, There should be 4 wires going to the start switch----A black, a blue with a white stripe, and 2 others. The black wire is grounded, and when the button is pushed, the switch connects the blue/white wire to the black wire, grounding it. The other 2 wires are to turn off the headlight when the button is pushed. To verify that it's not your start switch causing this, you could unplug your start switch, turn the key on, and take a jumper and ground the blue/white wire (the bike side, not the switch side). If it cranks, you have a problem with your start switch. If it doesn't crank, go to your starter solenoid. You will see a small blue/white wire there. Ground it with the jumper, and the bike should crank. If not, you have a bad solenoid or starter. In between these 2 different blue/white wires there are the interlock relays (side stand down, in neutral) and after you make these 2 tests we can proceed. Frank D.
  22. frankd
    It's probably the start switch, but make sure it's in neutral first. If it's a Royale, you can verify the kill switch is OK by turning the cruise control ON and rocking the kill switch. If it's in the kill position, the green cruise control light won't come on. Speaking of cruise control, a couple of times I've had a 'no crank' situation, and when I looked I was pushing the Cruise release switch, not the START switch. If it's a Royale, make sure you're pushing the right button. Frank D.
  23. frankd
    That hole in the slide base doesn't mean that you can have holes in the diaphragms and not have any effect. That hole in the slide is a precise size. The size of the tract that connects to the outside of the diaphragms is also a precise size. Now when you have holes in the diaphragms, you upset the relationship of the slide hole size and the tract size, and not quite as much vacuum is applied to the outside of the diaphragm, and therefore your slide won't move as much. Frank D.
  24. frankd
    How old are the plugs?
  25. frankd
    Uncledj, You may also want to beef up the welds that hold the mounting bracket to the chamber case. I've had the mounting bracket come loose on 2 different chambers on my 83. When I cut open my last noisy chamber (on the 89), I cut 3 sides of a rectangle out of the bottom and then carefully bent the 'rectangle' so that I could get the pieces of bracket out. 2 of the baffles in this chamber pieces completely broken off. Then a friend of mine welded it back together. Frank D.
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