easy-rogere

RougerRay I have been trying to find what is causing a continuity reading across the Neg pole and the Neg ground wire of 12.75. With every fuse out and a new RR and the condenser out I got a reading of 3.5 which is what you think to power the memories on the bike. Then connected all the fuses and the 3.5 reading held. When the last fuse (always the last) the backup fuse was put the 12.75 returned. Sooooooo figured what ever was causing the reading had to be somewhere in the backup system. Also the radio fuse was taken out and left out as well. The bike with new RR now charges at 14.3 and with backup fuse out, condenser out and radio fuse out the reading is 3.5 volts so my question was trying to determind if anyone saw any harm to the bike if I rode it like that at least long enough to see if the RR didn't short out or start to charge back down at 13.4 which is were the old RR was doing. I have another condenser comming and when it gets in I will put it on the bike and see if the 3.5 holds if it does then I will add the radio fuse and see if it holds at 3.5 and if those things happen then I would again try the backup fuse back in to see if it stays at 3.5 or goes back up to 12.75 reading. At this stage I am ready to even leave it in and see if it drains the battery or rather the reading is just some kind of electric ghost.

I seem to have traced a short to the backup fuse. I am not sure what the purpose of the backup fuse or rather the power of the line the fuse serves. I think it goes to the condenser and the RR. When the bike is off and backup fuse out and condenser disconnected I get a reading of 3.2 volts at the neg pole and neg wire on volt meter accross both. The condenser was bad I am guessing by radio problems and the fact with it connected the volts reading goes up to 12.75. Now when I put in the backup fuse it sparks but does not blow and the volts go back up to 12.75 even with the condenser out. Would it hurt the bike to run it with the backup fuse removed? What would cause a short in the line that the backup serves does it go to something beside the condenser and RR? Thanks for any help with this. Roger

the 1992 was my old bike I now have a 1999 and that is why I posted in the 2nd generation site. The radio will not turn off nor the CB as I tried to do that which of course to me suggust a radio problem again. I will do an amp test. I agree with Condor that the voltage is low and that is why we started all this when the radio acted like it had a mind of its own like being vol off and became very loud all by itself and would not answer to controls. The guy I bought the bike from said he put in a new high output 80 amp stator and that was tested at three white wires by the battery and seems to be ok. It has a new R/R as well. The idea of a short or bad ground was the next investigation and that is ongoing. I do appreciate all the help and ideas, You guys are great on this list. My bad for posting on the second gen. list without stating it was a 1999 but assumed lol that by posting on that list was enough to inform of the nature of the bike but I should of said the year sorry about that. Thanks Again I will post if we find the Ghost. Roger

I bought the bike and the guy told me he had problems with radio going out and he put in new stator, new R/R and battery. I got on bike and rode it 300 miles and about 125 into that the radio started comming and going like a weak station break but was not station. Spent night in motel got up next morning and started the bike no problem rode it 300 miles with radio still acting up but cruize did fine. After night in Garage took it over to a friend who tested the battery was a little down but came back up to 12.8 disconnected. At idle charged around 12.5 at higher rpm got up to 13.4. Checked Stator OK, but the voltage from the neg post to the neg. ground connection reads 12.8 when battery is disconnected and of course bike is stopped with key out of bike. I know it could be a radio problem but friend says the 12.8 at the neg connection is not right thus he thinks short somewhere in system. We have everything apart except the tank and doing testing. Another Friend said he thinks it is more likely a ground problem and not a positive short issue. Hope this is clearer.

I have a new battery on bike it reads 12.8 volts disconnected. With red positive connected and the black wire off post a volt meter reads 12.8 when connected to neg post and to the disconnected black lead neg wire. I have several opinions on whats going on with the reading. 1. dead short (open connection somewhere on bike electrical) is causing the the reading. 2. "floating ground" problem is causing the problem. When hooked up and motor running the voltage to battery is reading 13.4 which is a little low and that plus a radio that goes off and on while riding. I had the crurize control on and when radio went out cruize was working fine. Bike set overnight twice and fired right up the next mornings so what ever is going on did not kill the battery over night. Any ideas on what is causing the reading and the low voltage charge? Thanks Roger

Bert I assume you already had mounting hardware. Where did you buy that? Roger

Jeff The battery unconnected and out of bike was at 12.9 volts. Put it back into bike and tested from neg post to Neg connection wire and got a reading of 12 volts. Did the same thing on a Harley next too my bike and it read less than 2 volts neg post to neg ground wire. Unless the Harley battery has ran down to that low of volts both bikes should of had close to the same reading of Volts going through the neg pole and wire shouldn't they? Bike running and tested battary at idle was 12.5 and if you raised up RPM it went up to about 13.4 which is a little on the low side at raised RPM so checked stator and it passed just leaves the R/R or the short issue which in itself could be causing the low charge? Thanks for help Roger

I just bought a 1999 Venture. Guy I bought it from had changed stator, R/R, and put in a new battery and said all was well. Well it wasn't. Riding back 500 miles to home about 90 miles out the radio starts to make static and go off an on as does tape deck. I turned it down to zero vol. and was riding alone an boom the radio come on LOUD and I start pounching buttons no effect and then it just goes off. I have tried to push the Audio button to turn it off and it will not go off (held it for like 15 secs) Bike started fine after night in motel and started fine this AM when I took it over to a buddy to look for the problem. Battery was reading 12.5 disconnected and came up to 12.8 after 3hrs of being disconnected so batter is OK. Stator checked out OK. Havn't got to R/R yet but buddy tested the neg pole to the neg wire and got a drain like 12 with no key in bike. turned on acc and the drain didn't change on the meter. Disconnected the fuses to the left of the battery to no effect. Battery is getting 12.8 charge at idle and 13.4 reved up which is low. I used the cruise control and no problems with it and lights seemed to be fine only the radio is the clue. The guy I bought it from says the radio was what made him look for a problem as this list suggused it to him. So we are back to sqare #1. I don't think the bike is haunted so there must be an answer but judging by all the problems I have read about mine will just likely be another one added to the list but would appreciate any advise or suggestion as we plan to take the tank off and get at the fuse box to start testing each one. One question what is the best way to get at the R/R to test it? don't have a lift and can't work under the bike so that leaves? Taking off the radiator to get at it? Thanks for any help and other than calling ghost busters I am open to advise. Roger

My bike shakes or wiggles at slow speeds but once I get above 30 or so no hands straight line or even leaning into curves is possible. However I have notice that when I "shake" the handle bars while bike is setting still it give me a "wiggle or shake of the front end" back to me through the handle bars. I have seen the discussion for the "brace" and to be honest the ride is not as scary as yours as lane changes is not a problem. I changed the tire on the front and stopped the bad wiggle I had and the back tire while good tread wise is an old Dunlap 491 but since the "vibration or wiggle" is from shaking the front handle bars I doubt my issue is with the back tire. Nothing is more important than trusting your bike good luck on finding your problem mine may be the brace or bearings starting to go but I still trust the bike so guess will play the waiting game for now.

I have a 92 Venture and live in Dallas area anyone have any experience with getting work done at shop or even dare I say a dealer? Carbs need some adjustment so looking for anyone with good luck in Dallas, Ft worth area. Thanks

This list has been a real help as I struggled to get my 92 Venture back up and running. Starter Clutch replaced, Carbs redone and sync. changed all fluids out, all with help or advise from this list. The results is about 700 miles so far on the best riding for comfort bike I have ever ridden. I have had goldwings and Harleys and none of them takes a pot hole or railroad crossing or that invisable bump like the Venture. Even my Harley die hard was blown away with a RR crossing I dared him to take. The bike matching the feeling in new car (well ok close real close) For a guy with a bad back that is a must. It cost a lot of time and money to get the bike running and I hope I avoid any more trouble but for the ride I will just continue to throw money at the bike to fix it when the problem comes up. Thanks to all on this list who post and help others. My abilities and knowledge is limited at best so about all I can do is say thanks you guys make a difference.

My problem is I have 4 new diaphragm but how do you get the plastic ring and alum. slide free of the plastic slide to put in the new diaphragm? Pulling the old hole ridden diaphragms was not hard but now I have 4 pistons with the plastic cap and alum. slide that I can't figure out how to "break Lose from the plastic Piston" in order to work the new diaphragm's into place. Is there some secret to this or am I totally off base in what I think I have to do?? Thanks for any help

Sorry if this is the wrong place to post a question about a shop or person in Dallas/Fr worth that works on 1st Gen VR but I need to find a good shop or person within 100 miles of DFW that knows what they are doing. Carb work mostly. Appreciate any advise, help or clues on how to find a repair place for my 92 VR which has several issues. Thanks Roger

Thanks for all the help. This has to be the best board around. I had after I posted my question figured out how to use the forum a little better (still learning so this reply my be in wrong place) and found out what you guys pointed too from your previous post on that subject. My bike has less than 23,000 miles on it but had set up for a long time and been working out bugs now for about 9 months. I have a friend who does my work for me and he thought that was the problem. He has worked of Kaw's but this will be his first Venture and I will show him all the post on this and if we decide on using the kit rebuild by Dano I will need the address so..... Not sure how the PM function works or I would PM Dano and will try to figure that as well but if not can someone post a mailing address or phone info??? Again my thanks for the speedy replies, great help, and bothering to answer a question you all had answered before. Means a lot to see that kind of folks in today's world. My bike has been way too costly and way not riden enough and still one repair after another but has to be the best riding bike I have ever ridden as far as a old and messed up back is concerned and I like the way she handles also. I sold a 2002 goldwing and had 3 others as well so not sure how the newer Ventures ride comparied to the late models Gen 1 but nothing I have ever riden comes close. Thanks again guys I try to find how to the PM thing lol. Roger

My bike has started clicking if it does not start right up. So far I have continue to try to start it and it starts and the clicking stops. I have been told that the 1300 do not have a silonode (sp) but has some of typ of gear engage system instead and that is what might be causing the noise. Anyone now or had any similiar problems? Thanks