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bongobobny

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Everything posted by bongobobny

  1. bongobobny
    Have a new set of plugs handy when you do the seafoam routine as it can tend to foul up plugs if there is a lot of contamination broken loose from it...
  2. bongobobny
    I will be working Saturday morning at Moog, but will be off all afternoon if you want to ride out to Arcade. Adventurer is also from the area and has a 1st Gen. Just look him up in the member directory. There are also several 1st Gen owners just over the border in CND (C eh N eh D eh) who may offer their expertise. There are a couple of other 1st Gen owners in Clarence if you search the NY member directory...
  3. bongobobny
    Those fuel level senders have been known to be wrong. The real question is just how much fuel did you use?? You should be getting close to 40mpg, and considerably less if you drive over 70 a lot...
  4. bongobobny
    OK if the fan is cycling, then the sensor is working reasonably OK. The fact that the fan is cycling means that the temp is staying within normal operating ranges. If the fan was constantly on then I would be more worried. You probably should flush your cooling system and refill with fresh coolant. Just make sure whatever anti freeze you use is safe and reommended for aluminum engines. It should say so on the label somewhere...
  5. bongobobny
    Great news!! Now we can go riding! We're having a BBQ for Ventureriders (if anyone shows up) on the 28th if you can make it...
  6. bongobobny
    I think Rocket may be right, but try the old solder thingey anyway. Worst case senerio, I have another compressor assy on the '85 of unknown condition if you want to try it out...
  7. bongobobny
    So far both of my guesses have been mentioned. Yes, it does sound like a bearing problem, and it wouldn't hurt to check and clean/repack them, but the first thing I would check is the front brakes. If the rear caliper were hanging up I would suspect a pull to the right rather than to the left... I would suspect rear bearings moreso as it would seem that front bearings would cause a noticeable wobble!
  8. bongobobny
    Buddy beat me to the punch! You can test the output with an old fashioned dwell meter if you have one. If not, then most likely your expensive TCI is most likely malfunctioning. Yes, they can "half work" but usually they are completely dead.
  9. bongobobny
    If not, then the proportioning valve, which is a common failure, would be next in line for clean/rebuild followed last by the rear caliper. I agree with the other guys that a good place to start is the master cylander though... A good flushing of the entire brake systems as well as the clutch system should be performed as peventative msaintenance every few years anyways to keep the systems in top operating condition. Every 3 to 4 years is good.
  10. bongobobny
    Just had to replace a bunch of similar P.C. mount switches on the tuner control module due to weathering, I assumed. I used some switches from a display panel for an old CD player but the push part was much longer so I cut them down and filled in the hollow center with some ABS plastic weld. I agree, Radio Shack USED to carry the right ones, but no more. You may try some commercial electronics supply companies like Allied, etc. If you find a solid source, let me know as you never know when one of those switches will fail...
  11. bongobobny
    I have looked at those, but never bought. Before you bid, go to www.jcwhitney.com and look at what they offer for handlebar grips. There is a pair that looks a lot like those only cheaper... These http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/Product/tf-Browse/s-10101/Pr-p_Product.CATENTRY_ID:2002125/p-2002125/N-111+10211+600014737/c-10111
  12. bongobobny
    Seems to me that a few members were dissatisfied with them due to blowouts about a year or so back... Or was that on the "Other" site??
  13. bongobobny
    You may also want to check with your local Stealership and see if they can come up with a key using the VIN or something like that. I know it's been done before on other models as long as you can prove ownership...
  14. bongobobny
    My nest set will probably be Avon's. Soooo many people recommend them! However I am running the Elite II's and so far so good...
  15. bongobobny
    Your computer monitor may be suffering from the common "Broken Solder Connection" syndrome. What you want to do is remove your dash and resolder all the connections on the pins of the connector. This may fix all those problems. A;sp, check for corrosion on the connector and clean as best as possible and add a little dielectric grease when reconnecting.
  16. bongobobny
    I have a set of Carbs I bought cheap on ebay in need of rebuilding myself... As far as any starting issue, well the first thing to do is put in larger battery cables. Member Squidley sells some upgraded cables in a kit that makes a difference fer sure, especially when the bike is hot. A second modification is springing the money for an "Odessy" dry cell (lithium I believe) battery that has a lot more cranking power. These go for around $100 but it makes a huge difference, and will be the last battery you will have to buy for it. Do a search on this to find a link to a few online sources. The Recommended model is the 680MJ (MJ for metal Jacket) but it is the same as thre 680 without the jacket, which is quite cheaper than the MJ. I am super happy with mine, as are several members. The last mod is to switch to a 4 brush starter which is a vmax starter and also the 2nd gen starter I think. Haven't done that mod but have done the cables and Odessy battery. To give you an example of the difference, when my clutch went out at the foot of the 219 in Springville, I started in 1st gear 3 times in a row with no problem, something that I never would have been able to do before the mods. There was a recent thread about starting, but in general I just choke it and push the button. I don't dare blip the throttle for at least 15 seconds or so, but I'm suspecting with the new plugs and wires that will change. I haven't touched my carbs since I bought it either 2 years ago. Even before the electrical mods, it always started, even after being stored for several months...
  17. bongobobny
    Wording for Oriental provided translation required when this is reading...
  18. bongobobny
    See my other thread... http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=12150
  19. bongobobny
    ...Extra week of riding time?? Around here in the Buffalo area that's almost half of our riding season!!:banana: Yes, that sounds typical to have problems like that with a combination of bad gas and rubber drying out from lack of use. Indeed make sure they flushed your gas tank, and put some Gas Stabilizer in the tank. I would also highly recommend a couple of good Seafoam treatments followed by a set of new plugs afterword as the Seafoam treatment has been known to foul plugs. You should be running fine after that! Enjoy and we will get together some time soon!
  20. bongobobny
    If you end up replacing lines, you may want to consider going the extra step and rebuild your slave cylander as well. Keep in mind how old the rubber is... I'm presently in the middle of the same job myself. Not exceptionally difficult to do but getting the slave out requires a little coaxing. Right now I'm waiting on my new line to be delivered hopefully Friday.
  21. bongobobny
    Replace lights with LED's after checking ground...
  22. bongobobny
    Your front end is similar to what I would like to do with my project '85 VR. I want to extend the front tire about a foot forward. You already answered my question about handling. Did you do your own welding ur did a fabricating shop dso it? I was considering lowering the yoke about an inch as well as increasing the angle a few degrees if and when I do mine...
  23. bongobobny
    OK thanks for the responses! The bike is on the centerstand. I had no real problem breaking the 2 screws loose with my long handled allen wrench and a crescent wrench. I had more problem with the bolts on the cover. The guy before me painted the covers black to hide the yellowed/chipping clearcoat. I actualy broke a cheap allen wrench in two (Actually a couple of them) with those screws. Finally broke down and got my good Craftsman set out of the trunk of the scoot. The slave is still in the engine waiting on the new hose to come in this Friday. Figured on using a set of slip joint pliers to grasp and wiggle the slave out when the time comes. The manual recommends disconnecting the hose firstr. I see where it is a great idea to move the stator wires out of the way too!! Haven't changed the oil since last summer so it's a good a time as any to change! Also doing new plugs and wires while I'm at it... Oh, yeah, also a good time to replace my defective sidestand switch ans remove the jumper on the connector!
  24. bongobobny
    OK I started on the rebuild of my Clutch Slave Cylander, and following the instructions in my service manual, it says remove the middle gear case cover and then says "NOTE: ...be sure oil does not leak out of the case." Well. oil did leak out of the case, about a half a cup, give or take. Well, the manual doesn't say what to doif it does leak. So, what is it trying to tel me?? Careful, oil may leak out so replace it, or if it leaks it means you have a bad gasket or seal somewhere?? Any ideas???
  25. bongobobny
    Yes, I am about 40 miles south of you in Arcade! Just read this thead. By any chance is the dealer located on Main St. in Clarence?? Got mixed feelings about good old Don. I do my own work whenever possible. My local dealer is Pioneer Motorsports around the corner from me and their work seems satisfactory but they are a little high priced IMHO. Anyways, hope things work out for you and if you need any spare parts, I have a lot, including a whole spare bike which I may or may not convert into a chopper in the future. I'll be glad to offer any advice and help when I can. There are a coupe of other 1st gen owners closer to you in Clarence, Amherst, West Seneca, and Niagara Falls as well. Just go to the member list, and look by state. You may even find someone almost next door to you
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