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Seaking

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  1. Seaking
    The unit that tibadoe listed from Amazon is the unit you want.. I have mine mounted on the RSV (first was on VStar) and it works flawlessly... Plugged into the bike electrical system and the audio to the stereo system.. With the Z450 or 550 you listen to the directions given so you don't have to take eyes off road and also serves as your MP3 player etc
  2. Seaking
    I have a Works shock and am happy with it.. rebuild-able when the time comes..
  3. Seaking
    dunno but when reading this I'm thinking "cross threading"??
  4. Seaking
    something you might want to try is to remove your steel plates and scratch them up with 400 grit wet/dry paper.. it'll take the shine off and give it a little more grab.. though the friction plates might also need changing? you can ride your bike as it until the new parts come in.. I'm loving the carbon fiber plates.. well worth the money AND as a kit comes in a ton cheaper than buying OEM parts from yamaha dealership..
  5. Seaking
    Evaporated, most likely.. that fluid gets hot when the clutch is worked hard.. To keep things 'fresh' when topping up the fluid I'll use a turkey baster to suck out the fluid from the reservoir and top it up with the fresh stuff in between flush periods. When on a recent road trip we got stuck doing 10 mph in stop and go traffic on an interstate highway for a couple of hours on a hot hot day.. tough on the left hand I might add. A stop at Wally Mart to get a baster and a bottle of DOT4 and refreshed the fluids for the rest of the ride.. Might sound excessive but it works for me and doesn't cost me.. easy preventive maintenance you can do on the road... But that's just me.
  6. Seaking
    I pulled my K&N filters off tonight after realizing they hadn't been pulled to be cleaned in say (cough cough) 20 or 30,000 miles.. ouch.. But looking at them.. I'm wondering if it was just the right time or premature or waaaay too late, hard to tell.. As the air comes into the box, it seems only the immediate area in front of the inlet hole is dirty while the rest of the filter looks pristine.. SO clean it's still fresh pink with oil.. SO weird. It might not show well in the photo but just that small area has dirt on it (albeit a lot) but the rest of the filter is looking darn new.. How often do you clean YOUR K&N? Cheers
  7. Seaking
    I'm figuring that the reason I kept killing the clutch is due to too high revs and dragging the rear brake in those slow maneuvers.. I just put in the Barnett carbon fiber plate kit and wow, what a world of different.. Tightening up the throttle cables (better throttle response) and keeping the revs low make this one heck of a nice handling bike in the tight corners and curves. A world of difference now. I always had that feeling of being on the verge of locking up the steering but now it's like I can turn the bars right to the stops and still maneuver the bike with ease. NICE! But for me the trick on the course is to do an exercise once or twice and then pulling off to let the bike cool down.. It really sucked when the clutch gave up the ghost in the small circle and it was like taking the throttle completely off.. boom.. down it went. Luckily was going SO slow it just stopped as it dropped on the guards.. no scrape no drag yeah, I'm REALLY liking my carbon fiber clutch kit and spring kit.
  8. Seaking
    NOTHING wrong with Yamalube oil (10W40 recommended for around here) and Yamaha filter.. I tried the synthetics but didn't like it.. only filter locally available is the Yamaha filter.. As others indicated, check the threads on choices and preferences of oils and filters. Simple little things while doing oil change is drain the oil when the engine is hot, the oil flows better.. loosen the filler cap to aid quicker draining, but leave it sitting on top to keep debris out. Before spinning off filter, it's best to CLEAN around that area to avoid accidental contamination from debris falling onto filter area. Its a shame to have nice clean oil and new filter only to foul things up cuz everything is filthy down there.. A good wipe down with cloth rags usually does the trick. Filter may not spin off easily when engine is hot / warm.. prolly needs to cool off. I just did three oil changes for friends and their filters were 'stuck' while engine warm but came off easy when engine cold. A wrap around strap filter wrench works best if you don't have time to wait for an engine to cool down. Always apply a coat of clean oil to the rubber gasket before installing spin on filter. When putting in new oil, you should use a funnel to avoid messes.. I typically put 3 full bottles and then shy of 3/4 of the 4th bottle and fire up the bike, shut it down, let the oil settle and see where it sits in the sight glass and add / remove as required. I can sit on the bike to hold it upright and use a long extension inspection mirror to look down at the sigh glass.. (tip for road trip when you don't have a travel buddy with you to help hold the bike while you get down to look at levels)... Oil changes on this bike are a snap and easy to do..
  9. Seaking
    Sorry but you complaining or bragging about a long ride on the RSV? Wasn't sure
  10. Seaking
    I think I found what the problem was.. I had bought a new Barnetts Carbon Fiber plate stack up which I replaced this weekend and noticed that the bail (wire retainer that holds the last steel plate and half sized friction plate) wasn't seated all the way in.. though locked in place, it sat a little higher up above the clutch hub which might not have permitted the next friction plate to touch that steel plate properly.. When ever I pulled away, there was a slight last minute 'grab' as the plates finally locked up at the end of the friction zone. When I installed the new plates in the weekend, I made sure that the bail was properly installed and flush with it's groove, and that took away the last minute grab feeling and thus made slow riding more positive on the clutch. I most likely burnt out the previous clutch with too high a rev on the engine to keep the bike stable. Now that I have the Barnett plates and spring installed, and the bail properly seated, the Iron Cross is SO much easier etc. all at much lower revs than I remembered on the previous course. I flush the clutch fluid 2 or 3 times a year (simple and easy to do) and use DOT4 synthetic.. Makes a world of difference.
  11. Seaking
    Ideally I would put the grooved pad on the inside.. why? Well the inside pad typically always wears out before the outside pad and the grooves would make it easier for you to spot them when checking your pads.. when the grooves are gone, time to replace them, easier to see. Just a thought
  12. Seaking
    The rev limiter is the setup on the engine that physically prevents you from over reving your engine past red line and damaging it. You'll know you've hit the rev limiter (limits your maximum revs) when you feel your engine stumble and no longer able to make more power. You can maintain power but you've reached the limit of how much more you can make, because the rev limiter prevents you from over reving your engine.. I'm not sure if it's electrical or mechanical to be honest. You'll know you hit it as it's a weird feeling if you're not familiar with it.. but its not something to fear.. it should be embraced Find yourself a quiet stretch of highway or an on ramp to a highway and while in first gear, drop the hammer and give it all she's got... let it speed up and hold it.. you'll feel the engine shudder, almost like what it feels like when you first hit reserve when you're low on fuel.. you'll be going rather fast at this point.. as soon as you feel it, shift and drop the hammer again... now you're going really fast and you'll hit the rev limiter again... You might be able to hit the rev limiter in third gear but you're REALLY going fast at this point. I can't remember what it is but I remember thinking it would be an expensive fine if I tried Basically what people are saying, is that if you've never hit the rev limiter on this bike, you haven't properly ridden it Now that doesn't mean you should hit it every time you accelerate the bike up to speed, but you should know where it is. Because these are indeed heavy bikes hauling a heavy rider (some heavier than others) you need to get the revs up when accelerating so that the next gear can work efficiently. If you're not going fast enough or the revs aren't high enough, you're making the engine work too hard and it's not efficient.. But getting the revs up before shifting makes the engine work more efficiently and gives you better control.. like dropping from fifth gear to fourth when passing a vehicle at highway speeds. Embrace the power, learn where your rev limiter is when dropping the hammer =)
  13. Seaking
    Its like Freebird suggests.. You obviously need to get the speed up before shifting otherwise you're lugging the engine.. go figure it's a 900 lbs bike with a rider on it.. it's a lot of weight to move. When taking off from the stop, get your revs up before shifting.. don't be shy with it.. then you'll get an appreciation what these bikes can do. I've often hit the rev limiter when in a hurry and it catches my attention every time.. wow.. big bike moves fast! But when cruising along.. I tend to go by the load on the engine for which gear.. if there isn't any head winds, no hills and everything feels right, I'm sometimes in 5th gear tooling along at 50 mph.. no load on the engine.. just enough to keep it rolling and holding speed.. but shift down to 4th or 3rd to get hauling again.. Yesterday's ride of combined highway and windy back roads got us close to 180 miles on that tank of gas before reserve.. For my bike, that's dang impressive considering the weather and terrain here. You could actually ride your bike in 4th at 65 mph and no worry about it.. you'll get quite the acceleration when you drop the hammer to pass but its harder on gas.. you're turning about 4000 to 4500 rpm around that area.. drop it into 5th and you're down around 3000 rpm If you have a local who rides a RSV, follow them and watch when they shift compared to yourself.. You might find you're shifting way to early and not getting the best out of what this bike has to offer.. Looks out window, sees sunshine.. no clouds.. no rain... what? CYA.. gotta go riding
  14. Seaking
    You can actually HEAR your tires?? I'm on my third set of E3 tires on this bike in 3 years (averaging over 26,000 miles for the rear and 29,000 miles for the front. I can honestly say I've not heard them at all.. hum buz or roar.. Could because of the engine whine, RK pipes or the tunes blasting on the bikes audio system... Nonetheless The E3s are one of the best tires I've had on this bike,, Its all about the tire pressures baybee.. 40 front 41 rear and rides nice, tracks superb and corners like there's no tomorrow.. Works for me. Managed to 171 miles before reserve today after a large day of riding the highlands..
  15. Seaking
    No, I didn't.. When the mechanic deflated the tire and then had a look for the defect he had a hard time finding it.. Only when it was inflated that you could see it.. I was surprised I hadn't seen it any earlier..
  16. Seaking
    Well here's a tale of caution for thems who ride.. We all know to inspect our tires and keep proper pressures for tire longevity and good handling. Mid May while on a road trip down to the US I95 I hit such a huge divot in the road that it literally threw my assets out of the seat (no easy feat considering my size) but I was able to control the bike and carry on. Didn't see it coming due to the thickness of traffic and concentrating on not getting nailed by kamikaze drivers.. The incident left me with a Works shock that required re-adjustment, but the bike still rode a little dodgy for a while and I ended up getting used to it but doing the Dragon's Tail and BRP didn't feel 100% like it used to.. Checked the neck and all was good, suspension was good.. etc.. Oh well I must be getting old.. The bike still rode fine on the highway, and parking lots but it was that 30-40 mph windy roads that felt dodgy.. Now it's time to replace the front tire, the wear bars are showing, I got me my new replacement E3 tire and lo and behold, an odd looking imperfection or damage to the front tire caught my attention.. I'd not seen it before when inspecting my wheels but there it was.. About thumb sized depression into the tread, slightly off the centre of the tire, and a couple more smaller ones near it.. VERY odd looking and oddly enough never noticed it before. But it was readily visible this time. Luckily I was getting that tire changed! My best guess is a broken belt or something from when I hit that huge divot in May.. and it's now almost July.. wow. Its not that I don't look at my tires or that the depression was 'slight', it simply never caught my eye before then.. (any ideas anyone what that is?) Now with the new tire on the bike, I haven't been able to tackle any corners that gave me problems before (need to scuff them up on dry roads.. and we gots nuttin but rains here).. but already I can tell the bike tracks a lot better and handles a lot better (not just from the new from old tire feel you get after changing tires out). I just wanted to share this with you to keep an eye on tires, feel them with your hands, by rubbing the dirt off the tire is how the depression showed up.. I wish I had taken a photo of it before getting it replaced though I don't know if it would have shown as well. Cheers
  17. Seaking
    When my pump died, the engine simply 'quit'.. no sputtering, no surging.. just quit and wouldn't start again.. until after a few minutes to half an hour.. then it would run for a few days no probs and then quit.. My problem might have been a little unique at the time.. but when my buddy's pump died, he ended up with something different.. it would run but not start unless you tapped the pump.. As they mentioned, I think you have to bypass the pump as it's a mechanical blockage now if it's not turning.. kinda thing..
  18. Seaking
    Mine pooched the other year and dealer did replace it.. after another shop couldn't figure out the problem and instead replaced about $3000 worth of ignition, filter and what not parts.. 5 down time days while on the road but considering the new parts, well worth it.. The shop in State College, PA were spot on with the troubleshooting and actually pulled the pump from an 2009 floor bike to get me back on the road right away.. VERY impressive service at that shop.. So.. if you're in that area and need repairs, they got one heck of an impressive mechanic who knows RSV.. very conscientious guys when it comes to bikes. My buddy's 2008's fuel pump pooched as well and the local shop wouldn't replace it until it died.. "how do you know it's the fuel pump" they asked.. "when I hit it with a hammer it works.. when I stop hitting it with a hammer it doesn't work".. I think he ended up getting the bike towed down there to have it replaced.. They wouldn't give him the part to replace it himself, thereby costing him the trailering fees.. Fun how that all works out huh?
  19. Seaking
    Awesome to hear.. I wish I could say the same for around here.. two dealerships and both failed me when I took my bike there for service etc.. they simply don't see these bikes enough to do the job right.. so I either do most of it myself or take it to an independent shop who I trust to be diligent when working on the bike.. so far so good.. Thanks for the info!
  20. Seaking
    I tend to run 40 in front and 41 in the rear tire and get lots of miles from my tires. Depending on your weight, your cargo and so forth, the pressures should differ a bit.. Don't forget that the manufacturer's suggest tire pressure is for a "typical rider" of 160 lbs.. and for me and I'm sure a lot of others out there, that was ages ago.. cough cough.. however, a while back an old savvy mechanic showed me that to get the right tire pressures, or darn close.. At midday on a nice sunny day, run the bike up the highway on a nice paved surface and after a while, pull over quickly and put your hand on the tire and on the pavement.. the tire should not be hotter than the pavement.. His whole reasoning behind that is that if your pressure is too low, the sidewalls flex more, causing friction that causes heat felt on the tire.. when the pressure is proper, the tire is still warm to the touch but not hotter than the pavement.. I thought it sounded odd at first but after going through 2 sets of tires prematurely, set at manufacturer's recommended pressure, I then tried his advice and pumped up the pressures.. and my tires have always lasted a long time.. and handling was much better.. This works for me, however, others might think it's bunk.. but I don't go through tires as much as others
  21. Seaking
    New ones bought, thanks again folks.. Much appreciated
  22. Seaking
    I put K&N filters on my bike, the OEM's on this used bike were shot and I got a set of K&N's at such a good price I couldn't pass them up.. Then tried different set of pipes here and there from Road King take offs to Larossa to Rineharts.. My oem pipes were tossed long ago as they were damaged and not looking pretty. At no time had I had to 'rejet' the bike.. seems to run fine without being too lean or too rich.. What affects the bike mostly around here is the temp and humidity... As far as MPG goes, I can honestly say that with the more open pipes and K&N your mileage will go down some.. Because you have louder pipes, you might have a tendency to blip the throttle more, come onto the throttle more and be heavier on the throttle than before.. that contributes to some of the lower mileage but also you have a more open system.. more air in, more fuel to mix it up properly and pass through.. thereby more fuel consumption. (something like that) As far as how much fuel mileage you should be getting? Hard to tell.. I know that on the recent road trip, we did our mileage calculations at the end of the day and it varied from 32 to 54 mile to the gallon.. Mostly dependent on various factors such as head winds, terrain, types of roads and traffic and speeds.. Going through the 400 miles of the Blue Ridge Parkway we were getting anywhere from 44 to 54 miles to the gallon, depending on we were riding.. but it's mainly all 3rd or 4th gear and some nice gentle slopes. On the open slap, interstates and such, screaming down at 70 to 80 mph (true speed), the mileage dropped down into the 30's MPG range.. Slower IS better on these bikes.. I can never get better than 40 mpg around here due to the hills, high winds and such.. but its all on how you ride.. If you ride MPG conscious, you can get some great numbers.. but if you ride it like you stole it, and enjoying the bark of the pipes and the noticeable oomph the air filters and pipes combo give you, then you're gonna get lower. I'm currently running with Road King pipes as they are quieter for long hauls, but my buddy rides with more open and much louder (too loud?) Larossa pipes.. And our burn mileage always match within one or two miles to the gallon..
  23. Seaking
    forget where the oil came from.. that is not the issue (sheesh) it's been resolved and of no consequence.. look, shiny object over here.. The question was about oil on the pads.. not about where or how the oil came from etc.. degreased the pads and disc and ordered a new set of pads just to be happy campers.. Thanks to all.. Cheers =)
  24. Seaking
    Kinda makes you wonder that if these remedies and quick fixes are such a great idea, why hasn't mainstream manufacturers jumped onto this band wagon? I read the article and how it's explained would indeed lead you to want to try it, what 'harm' could it do? Like the OP mentioned, 2-3 mph saved is good indeed here and there.. but... still makes ya wonder.. If the manufacturers of spark plugs haven't heard of this or haven't jumped on this idea and marketed a new fangled dangled spark plug featuring this new idea, is it really any good? I dunno.. Curious though..
  25. Seaking
    Ok thanks for the replies folks.. I'll be changing them out for sure.. We know where the oil came from and no worries, it's been resolved.. Was just wondering if the pads would soak up the oil or if all it required was a good cleaning etc Cheers
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