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Seaking

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Everything posted by Seaking

  1. But you COULD.. PAR36 lights? 45W each? Hell, there would be no need of a headlight then.. but what a price tag.. anything for your aircraft would cost a lot.. Interesting to see though.. Custom Dynamics does put out a full LED headlight.. I've no idea how it works out though
  2. Typical bike: Headlight 55/65W Highway lights 35W + 35W TOTAL WATTS 125 Watts HID LED bike: HID Headlight 35 W Highway Lights 12W + 12W TOTAL WATTS 59 Watts Difference of 66 Watts (I'm not sure where I got the info that the highway lights are 12W each.. I'd have to contact CD to find out for sure..)
  3. The lights I have from Custom Dynamics are more expensive than the BS ones from the marine green boat rip off people.. BUT the Custom Dynamics work and do not interfere with your radios. I added the metal duct tape as an added precaution.. Radios, MP3 and CB work excellent on my 2006 and on my buddy's 2008 bike. So yeah, they work well.
  4. erhm this is why you take the time to "AIM" your headlights and highways, no??? Same as with any vehicle..
  5. They are mounted on the engine guards with P-Clamps offered by the same source. I don't have the P-Clamp on mine but I used them when installing the lights on my buddy's bike. We both have forward highway pegs on those bars and the lights can fit ahead and below and not come close to your feet nor be in the way in the unlikeliness of dropping the bike down on the guards. I've gotten SO much help from the learned folks here that I am more than happy the help others in return when possible.. knowing fully well one of those learned types will steer me back on path if I deviate from the norms
  6. Keep in mind that a lot of cameras have difficulties capturing LED lighting properly in a way that we can translate in a photo. We also have the problem that the ambient light, camera settings etc also affect how the photo looks. In this case, the photo and camera are adjusted to show more of the 'whiteness' of the light than it's brightness. A normal headlight and highway lights look downright AMBER compared to the lights on mine. Installation of the 4.5" highway lights from Custom Dynamics is relatively plug and play whereas you do have to cut and crimp/solder new connectors to make it work. Not hard at all. I took the added steps of taping metal duct tape over the inside of the light to reduce the minimal amount of RF interference heard.. But installation is super simple.. As for blinding the oncoming traffic.. like all lights you have to take care and aim your lights properly. The HID is brilliantly bright and you don't need to aim it too wildly and blind on coming traffic. I have mine set properly and I don't get flashed by oncoming traffic.. The LED highway lights are brilliant as well but you have to see them to understand what I mean.. they will cast a good light on the road but they do not project blinding light into oncoming traffic.. what you mostly see is a bright disc of light. Same for day time.. Again, this is hard to capture on camera but as soon as the East coast Monsoon season abates enough to allow us to ride again, I'll endeavour to get some photos and video clips of it.. When I switch off the highway lights and the little bullet lights, running only with the 35W HID headlight, the road ahead is brilliantly lit up.. you simply cannot get that same effect with a traditional bulb.. Just simply impressed. As I mentioned before, the HID does so much illumination that it floods out the other lights.. but the combination of all the lights together make for a large blob of something coming towards you to capture a driver's attention that something is there.. Dunno if that makes sense or if I explained it well enough but soon enough I'll try some footage.. Cheers
  7. cough.. yes.. don't listen to me, I'm old and easily confused lol.. and I also have my controller cable connector cinched up using the 4 zip ties trick as well..
  8. I'm on a limb here saying it's the BLUE one.. However, it's not hard to trace the cable back under the stuff to make sure you got the right one.. I JUST had my fairing off last night to install a new windscreen too.. argh..
  9. Your thread is what then? did you not see the image attached to the post?
  10. Now, pity the fool who says "sorry, I didn't see you".. He'll deserve the beating he'll get.. 6000k single bulb double action HID kit from http://canadiancruisercustomizing.com/ (35W only) The 4.5" LED highway lights are from Custom Dynamics. (12w each) the super bright LED 'always on, signal off' signal lights also Custom Dynamics and the little bullet lights at the bottom are also from http://canadiancruisercustomizing.com/ (4w each) This is what I meant by presenting a large blob of light at oncoming traffic.. this is much more noticeable and attention getting than a single 55W headlight.. When seen sideways, there is a big glow of white in front of the bike and front wheel plus the side marker lights and the wrap around glow of the super bright tail lights... Will this prevent me from getting into an accident? Will this ensure I'll never get hit by an inattentive driver? Hell no.. but it should help justify the beating I'll give him when standing before the Magistrate (just kidding... a little) Your mileage may differ, this set up is gosh awesome bright and illuminates the highway like no one else's business.. AWESOME!!
  11. Many thanks folks!! I have the risers on the bike but also the longer cables for a lot of free play as well Much appreciated!! All's good now.. wow, that was a lot of slack and prolly explains what was causing the cruise control to kick off in the high winds.. Now I just have to wait for the 40 day and night flooding rains to cease before putting it to the test..
  12. Has anyone done this recently? I'm reading the procedure in the book but I'm not gasping it.. adjust at the handle and then at carb end? and then the cruise control end? Where is that located? (page 3-16 3-17) I have a lot of slop in the throttle that I need to tighten up once and for all..
  13. If it's not tire imbalance as Goose suggested or the wind buffetting.. my only question is "are you wearing glasses?" Sometimes the wind comes up from your legs and starts to rattle your glasses just enough to impair vision without you feeling the wind. I had a buddy suffer from that problem and after so much trouble shooting, he wore goggles over his glasses and that's how he discovered the real issues. Any vibration noticed in your mirrors at the same time?
  14. As Gunboat indicated, it's simple enough to do.. order the right parts and take your time doing the work.. I also did not do the fold over option and if it ever came to the need to lower them, I have to wrench them off.. In the past two riding seasons I haven't had the need to do that..
  15. Good stuff! How far down are the pads? The danger is when the pads get much further down in wear and you run the risk of running metal on metal with the inside pad when the outside looks like it has a lot of life on it.. usually past the 3/4 worn out range ya never know, you could also have a good pair of HH Sintered pads on there now.. Cheers
  16. I had the PCW spring but then later switched to the Barnett spring as the PCW left your clutch lever travel a little too far out (smaller friction zone).. I never could find those carbon fiber discs.. do you have a part number / location to order them? Do they make enough of a difference to warrant the costs? Thanks in advance.. Cheers
  17. My 2006 RSV was reading the speed 10.5% too high, in other words, to ride the posted 110 Kph, I had to show 120 kph on my speedo.. to ride the posted 80 kph, the speedo had to show just under 90 kph etc etc.. Basically I just rode 10% above the speed limit.. made me feel like a bad boy, speeding in all while in fact I wasn't.. After installing the speedo-healer, I did notice the 'distance' was reporting differently but not by a lot.. something like 3% difference.. which means that my odo reading 1,000 miles means I actually traveled around 970 miles.. not bad. In the large scheme of things I prefer having an accurate speed reading and living with 3% discrepancy in my odo.. Cheers
  18. I got mine from Custom Dynamics.. They are not cheap but they are VERY well built and put out very little RF interference. I covered mine with metal tape to reduce the effect even more. I don't hear any RF interference at all now. The match the brightness 'white' colour of the HID now. And only take about 6W each from the bike instead of a total 70W.. If you think about a typical RSV lighting, 55/65W headlight and two 35W highway lights, that's a max 145watts on the system.. With the double action HID and two LED highway lights, you're now looking at only roughly 60watts in all.. I'm VERY happy with it.. good lighting all around the bike..
  19. LOL.. geesus, it's ONE wire to run to battery, it's to power the ballast.. everything else is SIMPLE to install folks.. You unplug the H4 plug like you would anyway to install a PIAA light bulb... plug THAT into the HID H4 connector, and then plug in the other HID components.. To make it ANY simpler than that would be having to send someone to do it for you.. But if you can't read simple instructions or are deathly afraid of electrical work, then yeah maybe this isn't for you.. but ITS THAT SIMPLE.. lol.. I'm trying to encourage you here,.. If you purchase and replace a new H4 bulb, you're almost 95% done the same work as you would have for the HID.. but with a less brighter light bulb..
  20. Is there not an adult section to see other people's melt down rants? I do so love rants.. I do a lot of rants.. some funny.. some sad.. I just wanted to check out someone else's rant just for the fun of it..
  21. The "hardest" part of the whole installation is taking off the front fairing and running a power cable and ground cable back to the battery.. You pull out the H4 bulb and install the HID bulb in place, all the connectors are idiot proof (they can only go one way).. you stuff the components aside and mount the ballast, the silver square looking thingy, somewhere where the heat won't affect anything.. Your regular light switch for high and low beam work as per norm... The only caution about the whole thing is that you should not flick hi to low to hi quickly on this system. The reason why it's so efficient and cost effective is that it's a single bulb double action set up. When you hit hi lo switch, an actuator moves the HID bulb in or out for hi and low beam.. if you flick the switch too fast too often you can damage or weaken the actuator. They just recommend you don't go crack crazy with that switch is all.. nothing to worry about. Everything else is just plain simple.. SO simple.. and reliable. Seriously..
  22. the HIDs sold by http://canadiancruisercustomizing.com/ are ridiculously Plug n Play simple to install.. they'll cut through the night and make your hgihway lamps useless.. but you can replace those with LED 4.5" lamps.. Go HID, you'll be impressed, and they ain't expensive!
  23. I find these to be the better pads for this big bike. What IS interesting is that we all know the rear inside pad wears out before the outside pad and some people get caught short if they don't check both pads.. I did a lot of riding on this set of HH sintered and this winter pulled the pads to look at them up close.. Compared to how bad the difference is with the normal pads, there was little difference between the HH sintered pads.. wow. I swapped them around anyway but there was little noticeable difference between them.. NICE!
  24. Gees, they have to issue warnings for a typical breezy day over there? Those are our typical winds here.. its when you get the 'blowing 40 gusting 70' that the trips get interesting on winding roads... Nothing like being in a good lean into that nice curve of a road and poof the wind gusts or stops gusting and woops, what a fun time that is!
  25. You're OBVIOUSLY not traveling fast enough through the wind to cut through it.. Most people make that mistake
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