Jump to content

Seaking

Expired Membership
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    2,307

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Everything posted by Seaking

  1. Seaking
    I have gone through two sets of E3s on my bike and like them quite a lot..
  2. Seaking
    Isn't that what loud pipes and blaring stereo tunes are for? Drowning out the whine? hehe
  3. Seaking
    Oooh never would have thought of THAT one.. good observation!
  4. Seaking
    Same thing here.. Riding a bike is my drug of choice.. the body pains go away and the voices go away allowing me to enjoy my long fun ride with the tunes blaring and the sun on my face.. if I couldn't ride I might as well take that long walk off the short pier.. That's why I'm looking at the auto clutch as something I might need in a few years.. just to make life easier.. I'm done with Safety Chrome so saving up for the comforts of the bike for more riding
  5. Seaking
    I had such problems with mine the other year.. and even after it was replaced by a shop who accidentally broke it on the bike while doing repairs, I was still experiencing some odd problems with my controller.. so it wasn't the controller in my case.. but to fix the problem, here's what I went through, perhaps one of these will help your situation. As others have suggested, clean the contacts of course, careful on the dielectric grease not to bridge the gaps between the pins.. you want grease on the pins but not bathe the sockets in them.. odd I know but something I was told by electricians.. One of the issues that I had encountered was weird.. the cable going from the controller to the box was being pinched at the neck by the other cables when turning the bars.. almost as if pinching off the flow of electrons.. (or blocking the smoke from traveling through the circuit, see "theory of smoke in electronics" for more on this.. I rerouted the cables and that took care of the problem for a while.. The next time I started having problems was probably more the reason why the previous fix had worked.. the socket that the controller plugs into the radio wasn't secure enough.. I guess with the cable being pinched before it would put a strain on the connection and worked something askew so that I would lose contact on one of the pins, making the system fail.. The fix to that was to take a bunch of zip ties and fabricating a locking system to force both ends into each other so that they wouldn't separate. And THIS worked for me.. that was my fix to the problem. You need 4 zip ties, one around each cable below the socket ends, fitted loosely. Then you run two more zip ties between these two so that when you cinch up the last two, it pulls the connectors tightly together. (I have a photo of it somewhere on here) But this keeps the connector socket from rocking or vibrating loose.. The only other time my controller doesn't work is when it gets too cold out.. it gets raw and cold out here but we refuse to put the bikes away before the snow.. hope something here might help.. Best of luck
  6. Seaking
    Yeah, unless you know what to look for, which most of us probably don't.. I asked a local motor head about this, saying what does this clip tell you about a bike's auto clutch and he raised his eye brows saying, "really, this is an auto clutch?!?" he was impressed.. Ok so what does it mean.. ? I guess what it means is that the clip shows you that the clutch engages solid, with little or no slip at all.. without having to use the clutch lever to get the right amount of engine power and clutch slippage to get that rear wheel turning and burning.. The higher the rpm of the engine the quick the clutch engages and stays engaged, almost locking up, more efficient due to less slippage.. I'm no expert obviously but it does take a lot to get that rear wheel to start slipping and turning like that in a burn out.. a weak clutch won't allow you to get it burnin and turnin easily.. Now whether or not you could do it on a RSV is another totally different matter My guess is that if you install this on your bike you're looking at having to adjust how to pull away from stops (a little more throttle, depending how quickly you want to pull away).. and while riding, you pull in the lever with a wee little finger pressure to shift gears.. When you drop the hammer at highway speeds, you won't get a weak clutch slippage.. It must feel weird though.. if you're under or over revs in the power curve as to how the clutch would react to the throttle inputs.. You'll get the sensation of slippage if your rpms are too low, not fast enough to engage the clutch fully but SNAP like a banshee if you're up in revs and into the power curve properly.. Would LOVE to see this thing in action on a large bike like ours.. Expensive? Heck yes.. Worth it? Dunno, I don't burn tires..
  7. Seaking
    I have close to 90,000 miles on mine right now with a heavy duty clutch.. not bad for an '06 I went through the various HD clutches and prefered the Banette setup better.. better lever travel and seems like better grip.. I liked it better than the.. Can't remember what it was called PCW racing? something like that.. Nothing wrong with their product, but I liked the Barnette set up better for my needs..
  8. Seaking
    Hmm perhaps I did.. the last time I posted a "I don't like MotorKote" and the reason why I was set upon by wild dogs and took a while to find the pieces.. the other person wasn't paying attention to the point I was making that *I* didn't like the product and thought it had contributed directly to a couple of clutch failures.. So here's the story why *I* don't like motorkote in my bike's engine and why *I* wouldn't use it in my bike's engine.. I had put some in my engine the other year as it was a highly recommended product by some members here.. But what was noticed soon afterwards was a smelly exhaust and clutch slippage.. I had taken an Advanced Riders Course and burnt the clutch out.. ugh.. Ok so perhaps I was heavy handed on the clutch in the slow riding part of the course but the smell out of the oil had a strong motorkote smell to it. (it has a definite smell to it).. Ok maybe it wasn't motorkote.. who knows.. But after cleaning out the clutch plates and changing clutch fluids the bike was up and running again.. A couple of oil changes later I took the course again a month later and the same thing happened.. The clutch literally gave up the ghost in the middle of a turn and I ended up dropping the bike.. burnt out the clutch THAT bad that the bike needed to be towed home.. Again that strong smell of Motorkote.. I ended up having to replace all the steel and friction plates in the clutch, new parts that hadn't been touched by motorkote product.. Later that year I took the course again, but with new clutch parts and NO problems.. I had probably done 6 oil changes since the first contact with motorkote. My impression was that the product had left enough of it's slippery agents on the clutch parts that they would be too slippery, and thus slipping too much, over heating to the point of glazing the parts to total failure.. Yeah, sounds funny that a slippery agent would cause friction heat but that's the way it turned out.. How much of those clutch failures are actually attributed to the motorkote? Some, all, none? I don't know but "my" impression is that motorkote had some effect in the clutch failures. This is not to slag the hell out of the product, just explaining why *I* personally wouldn't put it into my bike again.. it may be proven that it's the super duper best ever product to put into your bike, but not for me.. twice bitten once shy.. Cheers
  9. Seaking
    Well isn't THIS the thing for people with arthritic hands! How would these perform for dragging the clutch in slow ride parking lot maneuvers I would wonder? I'm not sure if I understood their FAQ properly, do you still have to pull in the clutch to shift gears (they state it's a one finger pull on the lever etc) Interesting indeed..
  10. Seaking
    Oh sweet.. Not to be a pest about it but any chance you got a part number where I can look these up to see if they would retro fit the way I'm hoping they do? How hard would they be to swap out on an existing light bar? Thanks in advance! Cheers
  11. Seaking
    I know you're a keen believer in the Motorkote product but I ain't.. Last year I pointed out my observations to which you had replied your opinions of my opinions of the product.. So to avoid an argument that basically goes no where, I'll suffice to re-iterate that my issues with the product were of my own observations on my own bike, as to why I wouldn't use it again in my bike's engine. There, that should settle that argument (no malice intended..)
  12. Seaking
    I'd recommend NEITHER.. Motorkote in the rear diff maybe but not in the engine. I've had problems with it enough to say I won't use it again on my bikes.. The school of thought for 'some' people is that oil is meant to make metal parts slip against each other without much wear.. yet in our bikes we need the friction of the clutch plates to work in order to move the bike.. if we add additives to make the oil even more slippery in the engine, it goes to say that the clutch gets a little more slippery as well. A lot of people will argue this point but my personal experience hasn't been that great with additives in bike engines.. A good quality engine oil (and that alone is another debate onto itself) changed at proper intervals will do your engine better than additives.. In a car, it's one thing.. in a bike? Something else.. But that's basically just MY opinion, I'm sure many others will have differing opinions..
  13. Seaking
    Keep in mind that when your revs are higher, the readings are much faster and balancing out swifter.. if your revs are slower, you can actually see a wide bounce action therefore getting a better adjustment out of it.. I dunno.. something like that..
  14. Seaking
    That's close to what I remember about 'why' to synch at idle.. MIND you, I did a lot of testing on that last summer when I synch'd my carbs.. I found that if you push against the screws as you were turning them you would impart an irregularity into the carb adjustment so that they wouldn't be 100% spot on when you finished.. I fine tuned my technique and found that though the engine at idle didn't change much, it DID make a huge difference when at highway speeds.. I bought a new set of gauges to do my carb synch, the bank of 4 dials with needles, to try instead of the carb tune.. sorta felt the carb tune with it's metal rods might be giving me odd readings.. I dunno, gonna give it a try to see if I can get the synch down proper.. And I synch when ever I do an oil change, plugs change, clean the air filters and fuel filter.. Or before a large road trip . Its a quick process to do so no worries.. Luckily this spring I did all of the above so the carb synch should last a while..
  15. Seaking
    I hear what you're saying.. there had been a lot of discussion about synchin at idle vs higher revs, even up to the 3000 rpm.. I'm not qualified to give any proper reasons why one would be better than another.. though I wish there was a simpler answer..
  16. Seaking
    If you don't ride at night, what do you do with that half of the day? Sleep??
  17. Seaking
    And these were the H3 bulbs? Was it the whole light bar you installed or just the lamps themselves? Cheers
  18. Seaking
    The place I got my H4 HIDs also sells the H3 version which you could then use in the highway lights.. I've looked into retrofitting my existing lights but that ain't gonna work.. My friends have a newer model VStar that has H3 lights in them.. seeing how a lot of my 05 VStar parts are interchangeable with my RSV, I wonder if their light bar would work on a RSV.. Just one of them things that might need to be buck-sheed.. if you do find a solution drop me a line. I currently have the Moon Shinez white driving light / signal light on the RSV.. the white of those lights match the HID well enough but makes any PAR36 bulb look yellow.. I'm almost tempted to ditch the light bar all together so that I can get that all white light look on the front of the bike.. but... maybe... I dunno.. Still gotta figure out how to make those Moon Shinez slow down their blinking.. (load equalizers won't work due to the special circuitry in the lights..)
  19. Seaking
    I have a buddy who can actually set idle speed by ear (sonar specialist in subs).. Its best to get a tach and set it by that.. you'll know you've set your idle speed properly and that your carb synch will be spot on.. I don't think I've ever spiked my carb tune up like you described it..
  20. Seaking
    What I would love to find is HID lamps to replace my PAR36 highway lights.. I've given up on the LED due to the radio interference but the HID would work just fine.. 35W each for HID is the same wattage as the 7616 for example (36.5)..
  21. Seaking
    bongobobny put it well.. Two other schools of thought goes with the use of switch and relays.. in layman's terms. (I call it juice as I couldn't tell ya if it's the amp current or voltage word that applies A lot of electrical juice gotta flow from the bike to the lights, and you can use a switch to turn them on and off but you would need a large heavy duty switch that can handle the heat and juice without burning out.. using a relay solves a lot of problems.. Basically think of it as the LARGE switch you can hide somewhere that gets operated by the little switch you place on your handle bars and such.. It doesn't take a lot of juice to push the relay into the open or close position to turn on the lights, that's why you can use the smaller switch to operate the relay.. In a nut shell that's how I learned to use a relay and why.. My OLD school of thought was always based on the Electrical Theorem of Smoke.. If you didn't use a relay you had a better chance of letting all the smoke out of your light circuit and that it would be expensive to put all that smoke back into the circuit.. That's still basically why I use relays.. the smoke..
  22. Seaking
    You're welcome M8.. I oiled up the pancake filters and hmm dunno if I like how it looks.. Seems these filters are a little too open or is that just an appearance?
  23. Seaking
    the typical method is the K&N recharger kit.. it comes with a cleaner agent and an oil charger agent.. You take a clean filter and spray the oil (usually red) onto the element.. the trick is to get it just right, not too much as to clog it up and not too little as the oil is what traps the smaller particles. Usually you go by the colour of the oil onto the filter.. light red means you have enough on there.. When the oil gets dirty, starts looking grey and let red then it's time to clean it.. You spray the cleaner onto it.. let it sit for 10 minutes or so and then run it under HOT water from the inside out to flush the dirt off the filter surface.. Let it all air dry natural and 'recharge' it with the red oil spray when it's completely dry.. Very simple.. I have the K&N filters in the bike and it's more of a chore to remove the filters than it is to recharge them once or twice a year..
  24. Seaking
    If you want to throw a lot of intensely bright light on the road ahead of you, try one of these $70 plus shipping http://canadiancruisercustomizing.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=3&zenid=4l2kig398mmq0gbibbr662l0k5 I've installed three of these in various RSV and these have been running for well over a year of serious riding in all conditions, rains, dry, heat and numbing cold.. All working great. SIMPLE to install.. And the company is super to deal with.. The only problem we ever had installing one was one gent had a headlight modulator in his system that needed to be removed in order for this to work. if you want bright and you wanna see through the dark, nothing beats an HID.. And just in case IF your HID fails on your while you're on on the road, you simply swap it out with a plain H4 bulb until you get your HID repaired.. Simple as that.. quick change
  25. Seaking
    I tried both the Green Boat sucks canal water light as much as their customer service, and the Custom Dynamic light and though the custom dynamic light was SUPERBLY built and have superb customer service, unfortunately the lights have the dread static problem as well.. if the bike never had a radio or if I never used the radio, I'd ride with Custom Dynamic lights on and have a brilliantly lit WHITE light parade on the bike.. all white.. but I need the tunes on them 12 hour a day rides I do a lot of.. I guess then its to start looking for an H4 driving lamp and installing HID in those somehow..
×
×
  • Create New...