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Seaking

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Everything posted by Seaking

  1. Seaking
    Without highway lights you should be more than fine with a heated vest (wussie).. minus the 35 watts x 2 for the highway lights will give back ample abilities to run your vest.. March.. we still got ice on the lakes and snow in the fields here.. and still crazy enough to try and get a ride in when possible
  2. Seaking
    Thanks for the tip Rick.. The job was done a month before putting the bike away for the season (snow) and I rode a lot at that time.. I do know the tracked well and handled OK but the rear shock was shot which cause some minor handling issues, which I was used to.. the front end did clunk when hitting a sharp bump as you suggest. I'm thinking that perhaps the bearings and everything else have seated after a few hundreds of miles of hard riding.. and may need another re-torque. I'll be seeing the shop owner on monday when he comes to pick up the vstar and I'll bring it up to him.. This being the winter cold snow months up here, it'll be better time of year for him to take it back to his shop and do it up proper again. His mechanic who got fired did shoddy work and he said he would back his shop rep and make it right if I found anything dubious (forks were installed 90' out looking at the air valves at the top etc). UPDATE: Shop owner came by to pick up VStar this morning and will take the RSV back to the shop after he returns the VStar in order to rectify the sloppy front end.. sweet.. New tightened front end, new rear shock.. spring is gonna be a lot of fun.. Thanks for the tips and suggestions M8
  3. Seaking
    Thanks Goose, the movement is less than when you had checked it last spring.. it doesn't make clunk clunk noise.. I'm curious to put my friend's bike up and test it on his to compare the two.. The shop who did the work in the fall is coming over to pick up my Vstar to do machine work on it, I'll show it to him and see that he'll redo the job as his ex-employee who did the job was fired for incompetence for another job on the bike.. (he's the type of guy who will make right any wrongs.) Thanks for the input..
  4. Seaking
    geesus, if it were the wheel bearings THAT loose, the bike would be unrideable lol As far as I can tell the bike rides fine.. I won't be able to tell until spring when the ice melts but I got to ride it for a month after the new bearings went in.. hmm
  5. Seaking
    Not sure how you mean Squeeze.. here's what I'm doing.. The bike is up on the carbonone stand.. I grab the front wheel of the bike and pull it towards me as I stand right in front of the bike.. the whole wheel, fork assembly moves enough to make a slight clunk clunk noise.. does that explain it well enough to show what I'm seeing or hearing? I can try a quick video clip to show you what I mean if need be.. Thanks.
  6. Seaking
    Thanks for the info SkyDoc.. does this adjustment with Dingy's tool still require the removal of the whole front end of the bike to access the nuts and such? I'll have to check it out and find out more about this.. Thanks. There's the poor man's adjustment where you tap it with the long screw driver thing? Its a high mileage bike yes.. hoping to really get the miles up on it
  7. Seaking
    I currently have the bike up on the maintenance stand for winter projects and it occurred to me to check the previous work done when I had a local shop do a neck bearing change. Though the 'bounce' check seems fine (not binding, not bouncing more than once when hitting the stops).. I do notice some 'play' in the forks when I pull forward on the front wheel.. Is there an acceptable amount of play allowed or should there be NONE at all? I would hate to think the whole front end has to come off in order to tighten all of this up again or worse, an indication of something even worse going wrong.. or perhaps, just a little loosening after the initial installation that simply needs a tap on the nuts to make it work properly.. (I can't believe I just said that.. ouch).. Thoughts, comments or advice?
  8. Seaking
    Well that sounds good.. I checked their site and see several versions of the slim line signal stabilizer, I'm not sure which is which.. and later find out that Custom Dynamics guys say that the GEN-7.5-30 Load Equalizer is the one that will work for our RSV bikes... nice.
  9. Seaking
    Many thanks M8! woot, ergh.. I had a second look and it doesn't appear that I have the SAME flasher unit as shown there.. mine only has TWO wires and no adjusting dial to change the flash rate.. no worries. My buddy saw the lights in front of the bike and now wants them too so he'll order the new relays in at the same time.. (what's an ELFR DOT???) Any idea what the socket is for the rear signal lights on a 2006 and 2008 RSV? The fronts are "3 pins" which confused me at the time of ordering.. now dunno what exactly the rear should be.. Thanks again for the link.. very helpful.
  10. Seaking
    Hi guys.. wondering if someone could help me out with something here.. I can't seem to find my way around this.. basically two parts to this, please bear with me.. (keep your clothes on, I didn't say "bare") Last year my signal flasher broke down and I had to replace it with a new one.. the mechanical flasher was located under the right side cover under by the seat.. simple plug and play.. However, while waiting for that one to come in, I picked up an Electronic LED FLASHER that would work for both incandescent and LED signal lights and not require load equalizers etc as it's all part of the package thing.. Its not a plug and play but someone had sent me info on how to splice it into the bike's wiring etc. Before I had time to attempt it, someone found me a proper OEM flasher unit and I put this electronic one on the shelf.. (photo with info on box and flasher) Does anyone recognize or/and know where I can get info about it etc etc? Now, the second part is that I purchased and installed a pair of Genesis Flat LED Turn Signal White BAZ Eclipze2 (Custom Dynamics) and wow, are these things insanely frikken bright!!! Perfect with the HID headlight etc.. They are white LED that stay on all the time but turn off as you signal to flash on off on off.. but they stay on all the time.. making you very visible to blind cagers.. hopefully.. But being LED they flash fast.. oh well.. I can live with that.. man these are bright! NICE! Someone stated that if you put load equalizers in the circuit to slow the flash rate down, you then lose the self canceling ability of the system.. Not sure if that is true or not. Then thinking.. Hmmm what about that LED flasher unit?? Put that into the system and voila.. the flash rate slows down and ... self canceling we'll find out. BUT the fun is I cannot remember where I got that LED flasher from, or how it splices into the system properly.. Anyone? Bueller?
  11. Seaking
    Got an email from F4 Customs.. unfortunately they currently do not ship to Canada.. dang.. And they measure from the bottom centre of the windshield to the very top centre of the windshield, unlike other companies that might be measuring from top of the glass to vertically down to top of the tank etc.. Hopefully soon..
  12. Seaking
    Do you recall how they measure their windscreens? From bottom to top of windscreen itself or from a height somewhere on the tank and up to the top of the windshield? I'm seriously thinking of getting this one but dunno which to order etc.. Cheers
  13. Seaking
    The shock was $700-ish plus $79 custom/duties/taxes at the door.. can't remember shipping. From what I've read and heard people tell about this shock, is that it is a set shock, meaning you can't easily adjust it like you would the OEM one with extra air or less air.. but there is a dampening adjustment which is relatively easy to reach at the bottom of the shock with an allen key wrench. The ride is reported to be a little stiffer than stock, but when you think that I went through TWO OEM shocks in one year, stiffer is better than fluffier.. no? Rick will preset the shock for you based on info you provide him so at least you get a better ride out of it.. I do prefer a stiffer ride, as I have progressive springs in front of the bike and now this shock.. cornering SHOULD be wildly impressive =) Though the OEM shock would have set me back between $600-700 depending where I got it, (bike is out of warranty).. and this Works shock cost me close to $800, it's still a good deal since THIS shock can be rebuilt and services unlike the throw away useless OEM shock Yamaha sells.. Though it costs more, this shock certainly outweighs the deficiencies of the OEM shock..
  14. Seaking
    I installed the new Works! shock this evening.. fun fun.. i did with the wheel, bags and fender on the bike.. It would have been TONS easier with them off of course but I just recently had them off for other work and didn't want to go through all that again.. so I did it the hard way.. not too hard though, kinda surprised.. Taking the left and right passenger pegs off and side covers made for easier access. Using an articulated socket also made it a lot easier and I think essential for this method of access, otherwise you can't get a square on purchase with the socket and will risk rounding off the nuts. Man.. the book calls for 59 top and 50 bottom NM torque but I almost upended the bike taking the nuts off those bolts.. wow. ape fisted lunatic torqued those on last time the shock was replaced under warranty.. Re lubed all the bolts and joints down there while she was up on the stand. The ONLY problem I had was with the upper bolt nut and washer.. I had to get my daughter with her dainty little girlie hands to reach in and get them on for me.. I couldn't even reach the bolt with my manly man-hands.. wow. tight fit.. Everything is bolted up, torqued up and looking pretty.. as soon as the bike touched the floor off the stand I knew it was an improvement.. before, on the replacement OEM shock, the bike would literally lean over when you pushed down on the right side of the rear seat.. but now the bike barely budges.. good shock.. Annoys me that Yamaha couldn't make a proper shock for this bike.. two shocks in less than a year.. Now the bike is out of warranty and I won't waste coins on a possible failure again.. Now just have to wait a couple of months for riding season to start when the ice melts around here.. Now to tackle the fuel filter since I got half of the junk out of the way..
  15. Seaking
    Or go order some plugs for the bike and he brings you out "two spark plugs" for the 1300 Royal Star Venture.. Then I make him order me two more.. silly bunch at times.. You can't expect them to know 'everything' now can you?
  16. Seaking
    You're thinking too 'high' up.. lol
  17. Seaking
    BAH, be a man and install a 12 gauge kill switch for your bike and leave the key in.. Someone asked me what a '12 gauge kill switch" was.. I showed them my semi-auto Remington Wingmaster... 'nuff said... Touch the bike, I touch the 12 gauge kill switch... Seen that one someone's bike one day.. thought it was very manly.. cough cough.. but it was on a woman's big bike so I kept my comments to myself.. just in case she really DID have such a switch.. ya never know..
  18. Seaking
    I honestly think that straight out to the side is the best 'look' for this and closer to the engine as possible so it looks more like it's part of the bike instead of a Elmer Fudd add-on buckshee job like the 45' forward one looks like (sorry, just an honest opinion as requested lol).. Erhm.. time to clean the bike up, say wot? egads man... you can't pretend to tell us you ride it so much you haven't time to clean it.. do you? hehe Thanks for sharing such a neat project.. looks quite interesting indeed!!
  19. Seaking
    Now that's purty!!
  20. Seaking
    My apologies, I missed that part in your original post about it being replaced and still draining.. (glasses on now.. ) Cheers
  21. Seaking
    I'll take an easier stab in the dark over this one... is this the original battery the bike came with? or even close to 5 years old? Bike batteries do have a finite life to them, some longer, some shorter. And they can slowly or suddenly lose their ability to hold a charge over time. I just had to replace the battery out of my 2005 VStar, the batter wouldn't hold a sufficient charge over a period of time to crank the engine over so it had to be replaced. The Battery on my 2006 RSV is holding up strong but I'll be replacing it this summer as a precaution due to previous electrical issues I had. If nothing else, it's just an OLD battery you're suffering.. Take it out of the bike, put it on a trickle charge and after a full charge, meter the battery.. let it sit off charger for a few days and meter it again.. most likely your battery is just old and can't keep it up.. No pun intended..
  22. Seaking
    Sorry about that.. I run with HID lighting instead.. not sure which Silverstone would work best for our bikes. BC guys sells HID kits that works GREAT in our bikes, easy to install, around $70 delivered and strongly reliable light.. Been running it 30,000 + miles at least now, no issues, no problems. Insanely bright..
  23. Seaking
    I tossed the stock windshield on mine as it had been crazed and damaged by improper cleaning by the previous owner (looked like someone used a gas station squeezy cleaner on it..??!).. I replaced it with a Tall Wide from ClearView. Impressive windshield indeed.. Too tall for rains in the city.. highway it will blow off but in the city the rain is too sticky and makes it hard to see.. Then purchased a ShowChrome medium that I can see over but the dang thing had a couple of big defects in it that I didn't notice till someone following me asked about the distortions.. and now I see them all the time lol.. dang him! I'm looking to either cut down my Tall Wide or ordering a shorter one.. I also have a 4 inch black windshield that looks similar to the HD have on some of their highway bikes.. Nice, but the winds will buck you at high speeds.. cough cough.. One thing I have noticed with these different windshield is how much they affect average fuel consumption.. the taller / wider the windshield the more fuel you'll burn overcoming the drag.. So the happy medium for me is a medium wide that I can look over the top..
  24. Seaking
    lol.. the first time you do anything to this bike, the average guy will feel like "what the heck do I do and how?!".. but once you did it a few times it's simple.. Fuel filter is a perfect example.. I know a lot of guys who won't tackle it because it seems so daunting to them.. but I dive in there, rip it out shove a new one in in less than 15 minutes.. but they would take hours at it.. Although I've taken this bike apart several times, I still had to ask around about the little tricks to change out my rear shock.. Not a Dumb Ass.. just wise to ask around for help.. =)
  25. Seaking
    Superb feedback, gents! Just what I was looking for indeed.. Documentation will show you what you need to do but doesn't give you the little details that make it easier =) I had planned to do Honda Moly up the bolts and such back there.. good reminder, thanks =)
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