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Seaking

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Everything posted by Seaking

  1. Seaking
    well the oil is the YamaLube.. I did an oil change down in Oxford Alabama and there wasn't any appreciable difference in the thump vibes.. I had done some clutch oil bleeding that helped with the clutch when stopped on the I95 and other highways.. (an hour of slow riding on an interstate in the heat.. too slow to completely stop, too fast to completely let the clutch out.. ugh.. ) I'm not thinking it's anything with fuel as I was feeling it no matter what fuel company, which state, which octane fuel or even when I added SeaFoam or Yamaha fuel stab and conditioner.. I'm synch'ing the carbs this afternoon and will see if that was the culprit after all.. ya never know.. but I will let you know. Thanks for the comments and suggestions.
  2. Seaking
    that sounds kind of familiar.. it's similar to what I'm experiencing (I was thinking it might have been the carbs out of synch or chattering clutch plates?) However, does your vibe happen in all gears at all speeds, mostly when adding more throttle to engine? Do you feel this vibe in the floor boards as well as in the grips? Not high freq like a hand buzz but more in tune to the tire rotation or engine revs?
  3. Seaking
    I think some of the readers are missing the point.. I don't think the Synch went out of synch.. the bike felt like it was while down in the heat and resumed acting normal when I got back up to the cold.. Either the Canadian fuel is different, not too likely.. or it's something entirely different causing that effect.. I'll be working on the bike tonight / tomorrow and see what's what.. The whole run from Maine to Halifax was the smoothest running the bike had been since first hitting the heat down in DC or thereby last week on the down south from here.. Just odd is all
  4. Seaking
    Thanks for the info guys, I'd been in touch with him while on the road and sent him a detailed report last night.. I wanted to hear back from others who actually use the shock to compare.. Mine doesn't click, it makes a swishing noise when bouncing on it .. but it seems to be doing it's job well.. who knows.. I may have to nurse the shock through this riding season and send it in to them in the winter for work on it.. Not giving up a riding season waiting for mail and head scratching while they try to fix it.. not this summer I'll keep you posted..
  5. Seaking
    Thanks Gunk... much appreciated..!
  6. Seaking
    various answers... good to see comedy isn't dead around here I don't think it's a fouled plug as it felt more pronounced while in the south than up here in the cold.. I used fuel conditioner down in the south after a while and though it made throttle response much better, it did not affect the symptoms described.. I don't think altitude had much to do with it either due to areas we were riding in... the main contributing factor seemed to be the heat.. Hard to tell.. I'll redo a Synch later on and be extra vigilant on the needles.. perhaps I had one out of synch the whole time.
  7. Seaking
    Here's an interesting one for you... regarding carb synch.. This is a little unique for me as I travel north south and hit 40-50'F temp change within a couple of days.. Before going on this previous road trip, I had synch'd my carbs as precise as I could and on test runs it ran smooth and sweet in 38-41'F weather we had here mid month of May.. But once I get down to South Carolina, in the 90's temp and I can feel thumping as I put power onto the bike at highway speeds, so that could be head winds? When I got back here today, I could barely feel that thumping.. I had thought perhaps it's my clutch plates acting up or something... like that.. hot oil, clutch oil heating up etc.. but when we got up here.. it smoothed out.. but it's still there under the surface.. So is what I'm feeling more to do with my clutch or with my carb synch, and does temp make that huge of a difference on it?
  8. Seaking
    Hi guys.. I just got back from a road trip (ahhh..) and ran into an issue with the new Works rear shock on the bike.. When I installed the bike this winter, in a heated garage, I set the preload (sag) as per directions (I don't have the instructions with me to quote what it is).. but I measured and adjusted and measured and adjusted with full gear on etc.. Later this cold spring I took the bike out for runs and jaunts and wow, nice stiff suspension... seems the preload was excellent and the rebound adjust set just right.. And rode that way for a little while before the long road trip.. And then it happened.. Traveling from up here in 40-50'F weather, the bike started to ride squirrely when we got into the warmer temps down in the USA, in the 70-80's the bike was now acting like it had a dead Yamaha shock (I should know, I had two dead ones hence why replaced the last warranty shock with a Works). I had hit a divot on the I95 that literally threw my assets out of the seat to such a height my buddy who was following me said he could see the seat of my trousers as I came up out of the seat.. This might have oomph'd the hell out of the system. With my buddy's 08 RSV next to mine to compare, I could push down on the right side passenger hold bar and the bike would rock down a lot compared to his.. At home, my bike's suspension was stiffer than his and wouldn't rock.. When I sat on the bike, he noticed the sag was more than a few inches.. I also noticed that perhaps the rear of the bike was much lower as I could sit with both feet flat on the ground where before I was heel up on one foot.. ergh.. At no time, while the bike was sitting in the garage or in parking lots did I notice any amount of oil on the floor nor any drips from the bottom of the shock.. When I sit on the bike and press down with my weight, I hear a sound from the rear suspension.. my buddy says it sounds like a groan, I hear it more as fluid rushing under compression through a valve or chamber, almost like a swish sound. Needless to say, barreling down the I95 with a dodgy rear shock wasn't any fun at all.. ouch. I made contact with the people who makes the shock and they suggested I should adjust the rebound at the bottom of the shock.. and this helped a lot! Almost as new.. but I had no means or tools to re-adjust the pre-load at the top collar. As we headed back north into NJ and NH, the shock felt fine.. but when we got to Nova Scotia.. wow, there it was, the same shock I remembered having before, except it being a little droopy in the rear.. (somewhat like me I guess).. When I adjusted the rebound with an allen key, I did not feel any 'clicks'.. just free turning but it did do something.. I was under the impression it should "click" into various positions as you rotate it. Do you have a Work shock? Do you notice a difference in the shock from cold to hot? For us, we get this temp difference with one or two days or riding south, so it was rapidly noticeable.. really not fun.. I can't believe that 20-30'F ambient air temp could affect the spring or system that much.. The shock is covered under warranty so I'm not concerned about that.. But is it possible I actually didn't set it up properly in the first place and that one large bump in the heat proved it? Just curious if anyone else with the same shock can shed some light on (A) does the rebound adjuster 'click' or just turns... (B) do you notice changes in your shock from cold to hot etc? and © do you hear a fluid swish noise when you put your weight on the seat? thanks in advance..
  9. Seaking
    I went through various slipons on my bike these past two summers.. The OEM slipons are super quiet and designed for the bike for optimum performance and mileage.. but boring. I then put on a pair of take-off Road King slip ons and those sounded nice.. you can hear the rumble when coming off the throttle but nothing earth shattering and you can sneak out of the driveway before the wife notices you're gone.. (take off slip ons are the OEM ones a customer removes to replace with an aftermarket system) THEN found a pair of Larossa downturns.. stupidly painfully loud.. what a racket.. but man.. it makes a V4 stand out in a crowd.. I would put them on for poker runs and bike meets but wouldn't travel far with them.. Unfortunately they are on my buddy's bike, and he drowns out my radios if riding 2 seconds behind me at highway speeds.. ouch. but he's nice enough to ride 5 seconds behind me so I can listen to my tunes.. After the Larossas, I found a sweet deal on a pair of black ceramic Rineharts (sp?) that had a nice mix of loud and rumble.. I could cruise on by the noise police yet through a loud bark at the twist of the throttles.. no rusting these puppies. And I can still hear my radios over them... depending on the load on the engine.. more load (head winds) means louder exhaust.. I then found another pair of take off Road Kinds as the previous pair had been dropped and damaged.. I installed the new set and they are quiet. I just got back from a 2 week road trip and really appreciated the lesser noise.. yet enough noise not to sound.. erhm.. you know. What I can tell you is that my mileage did go down some with the different pipes. Because I do a lot of riding with my buddy who rides with my old Larossas, we compare our fuel consumption all the time to see how it rates.. With his OPEN pipes and my typical Road King slip ons, , we are pretty well matched in fuel consumption. The only difference in our bikes would be the air filters where I have the K&N and he has the OEMs. Do you feel the bike being a bit more peppy? Yes you do.. Does it affect the handling of the bike? No it doesn't.. Does it affect your fuel mileage? It all depends... I think the extra noise makes you bark your throttle more Was it worth it? Heck yes.. I keep the Rineharts close by and typically ride with them more often.. but long hauls I'll toss on the Road Kinds for a more enjoyable time.. I can swap them out with the bags still on the bike within 20 minutes, taking my time..
  10. Seaking
    Can you explain how this process is applied? I bought black trim from Crappy Tire and used that... took a lot time and patience and sore hands but it looks good on my Midnight.. Holding up well except for where I scratched the leather with my fingernail of all things.. ergh Because I trimmed the leather away close to the plastic trim, if it were to pull out, there wouldn't be any way to redo the job as you need the extra leather to pull it taut.. But gluing it down? Might be a recourse if it pulls away. Cheers
  11. Seaking
    Do you know if the handle grip angle is different? I find the RSV grip angle to be too far inward for my big hands.. Best way to explain this.. If you're sitting on the bike, place your hands on the grips.. I'd love to have it angled more so that the tips are more forward, making the grips a bit more perpendicular to the bike's axis.. (does this make sense?) I find I have to twist my wrists outwards to meet the current bar grip angle, thereby making the heel of my hands sore after a 12 hour ride.. Does the RSTD bar have a different angle, or any other aftermarket bar?
  12. Seaking
    Personally, my thoughts on that is that once metal is 'bent' and then re-bent to original position, the metal is weakened thus compromised and will be prone to failure the next time the metal is stressed.. Esthetically good repair but I wouldn't count on it being as good for support the second time around. I braced my guards a while back and dropped the bike once or twice in slow speed maneuvers, and feel the braces saved the guards from needless bending. If I go down at higher speeds and break the guards due to the bracing, I think I'd be suffering other damages and / or injuries than worrying about if the bracing being a good or bad idea.. bracing would be a moot point.. Just my thoughts on the matter.. I just like the firmness of having them braced.
  13. Seaking
    GROAN... I just discovered what was blocking up my road king slip ons from installing properly on my RSV.. The clamps that I have are those fancy ones, all chromed and such, but had a shoulder in side which prevents the slip ons from coming up higher on the pipe.. So the only way to make them work is by using one of those ugly clamps that simply wrap around the outside of the slip ons neck.. At least the problem is solved.. but begs to question why the previous RK slip ons fit and why my current Rineharts fit as well with the current set up, but not the last two new sets of RK slip ons.. weird.
  14. Seaking
    I have large hands but still found it easy enough to get it on the valve.. could simply be the angle of the dangle when you're trying to fit it on? Are the threads on the valve OK etc?
  15. Seaking
    I first found the front brakes on this bike not to be 'weak' per se but not aggressive would be the term best to describe the feeling. Keep in mind this is a 900 lbs bike with a rider on it and that is a lot of weight to bring to a stop compared to a VStar 1100 or similar smaller bike. I've since installed HH sintered brake pads on which really helped and installed black braided steel lines to the front brakes. I didn't not add braided steel lines to the rear brake as I found the rear brake to be prone to locking up. The rubber line tends to absorb a lot of near panic induced stomped on braking when someone cuts in front of you, or if your bike has a tendency to nose dive during heavy front braking which raises the rear of the bike taking a lot of weight off the rear wheel, causing the rear wheel to lock up and skid. But with the progressive front springs installed, the bike doesn't dive as it used to, and braking is rather quite aggressive without that feeling of locking up. Proper braking technique, like everything else, is something you need to practice so it becomes second nature for when it really counts.. Fun fun fun..
  16. Seaking
    Yes, I'll certainly clean out the connector and check the vent and toss in the seafoam before pulling the sensor out.. Thanks again folks.. MUCH appreciated.. 2006 bike out of warranty now anyway.. learning all this fun stuff is.. fun.. Cheers and safe riding..
  17. Seaking
    Super info.. many thanks.. if I'm going through all that trouble to pull one out I'll prefer to put in a new one.. last few things I got from Pinwall didn't work or were not as advertised, unfortunately.. and being 'electrical / electronic' there is no return.. sigh.. Cheers and thanks again
  18. Seaking
    Any guess to the cost replacement of these units? Mine will read full after a bit so I don't think it's leaking but it's a good thought.. Cheers
  19. Seaking
    So it's accessed from UNDER the tank? Four bolts and everything comes out through the hole? Simple as that or is there a little more to it than that? not hard to empty a tank of gas is it..
  20. Seaking
    Looking through the manual all I can find is 'how to put it on' and fuel pump.. but haven't been able to find anything about the innards of the tank as to where the sensor might be at.. Its possible there is something mechanical in there sticking thus not allowing the smooth motion of the thingy'ma'bob.. Anyone know where to look? I'll toss in a fresh can of SeaFoam to see if that helps to clean things off as well.. Cheers
  21. Seaking
    Well this is very odd.. Its happened more than once this year where I would pull in for fuel, top right up to the gunnels and when I ride away, for the next 2 to 4 miles down the road, the gauge will read two to three bars down from full.. then slowly add bars until full bars are showing. I'll arrive at destination, 12 or 20 miles down the road, shut off the bike and then roll away after a while.. the fuel gauge shows 1/2 full bars.. but only 20 miles total run since fill up.. then the bars creep up to full or down one bar. Something is sticking.. On a long round about right hand turn off the highway, with the bike leaning hard to the right side, the fuel gauge once again read much lower that it should have for the amount of distance travels but the bars didn't increase. Its doesn't happen all the time, can't seem to pin it down to any specific conditions.. but oddly enough, my buddy with his 2008 does the same thing from time to time.. His bike did this often last summer but it cleared itself.. Any idea what we might start looking at to start trouble shooting this issue? 15 days to road trip, it's something I'd love to clear up.. Cheers
  22. Seaking
    yeah, not working on these.. there IS a weld inside as you mentioned, I hadn't noticed it before.. but nothing happening as there is no way to get it close enough to even get the one bolt in.. rats!! Cheers
  23. Seaking
    Not hard at all.. just watch for little springs near the switches.. Just did my VSTar levers, similar set up. Clean up old grease, add new.
  24. Seaking
    Understood but I meant I cannot slide the slipon up high enough onto the pipe so that the rear mounts will work.. I can't see what might be obstructing it or preventing it from going in deep enough. I tapped it with a rubber mallet and flat block of wood to get it up there but to no avail.. All other slipons I had before worked like a charm but not these.. There are brand new.. I typically ride with my Rineharts on the bike but next month planning a long road trip and wanted quieter pipes to reduce noise fatigue just for this trip.. now hunting for alternatives..
  25. Seaking
    I just tried installing a set of RKs on my bike, newer ones and they won't slide up the pipe far enough like the other ones I have.. dang. Is that also part of the problem if you get the newer slipons??
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