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Seaking

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  1. Seaking
    Some engine oil got spattered onto the rear brake disc while riding. The rear brake is, as you can imagine, not grabbing it should be due to contact with oil.. Do Double H Sintered brake pads soak up oil and rendered useless or will it burn off after cleaning off the disc? Trying to sort out if replacing the rear pads is specifically required because they came in contact with oil or can they be cleaned off with brake cleaner fluid? Cheers
  2. Seaking
    Having gone through BOTH the PCW and Barnett's clutch upgrades, I have to say that I much prefer the Barnett for several reasons. The PCW upgrade recommends doing away with the 'half discs' which is not a problem, why use a half disc when a full one has more surface.. But what happens is that friction zone now becomes that much more smaller, out to the finger tips. For what it was worth, I found the PCW spring plate good enough with the OEM stack up.. Later, I got my hands on a Barnett's spring kit at a price I couldn't pass up as I wasn't happy with the friction zone feel of the PCW.. too narrow a zone.. With the Barnett's spring kit, I have a wider zone and feels more like stock, though needing a slightly stronger pull.. When I drop the hammer, its dropped.. There's nothing wrong with the PCW, for me it's just a preference thing, I simply like the Barnett's friction zone feel better..
  3. Seaking
    Earlier this year I was suffering a lot of cruise control issues where heavy head winds would disengage the cruise control and any little bump encountered, ants, blades of grass and broken pavement would also disengage the cruise control.. Turns out my throttle cables were loose. After adjusting and tightening the cables (only the one at the throttle grip was loose) everything works fine after that.. I've hit some major potholes and bumps and the cruise control stays locked on solid.. Check your cables.. if you have excessive movement when you twist the throttle gently, this would be a fair indication of loose cables.. Tighten them up and test drive.. Search out an earlier thread started by me where someone recommended what cables to check out. Cheaper and easier than letting a dealership do what you can easily do yourself.. best of luck!
  4. Seaking
    LOL it's been a while since I chuckled out loud reading someone's response on here.. That's a good one.. LOL.. hey watch me drop the hammer on this beast .. Bwaaaap Bwaaaaap clink.. oops, missed a gear.. bwaaaaaaaa cough (red light).. funny
  5. Seaking
    I have my buddy's bike in the garage to do a clutch overhaul.. riding his bike over here, I noticed how much more agile his bike is compared to mine.. Keep in mind I had thought to have blown my Works shock on the last road trip but turned out to be only in need of adjustment.. Who would have thought the roads here in Nova Scotia were nicer than down in the USA? I had hit a huge divot of a hole on the interstate that threw me up out of the seat and the handling went to hell after that. An adjustment to the rebound on the road fixed most of it, and adjusting the preload when I got home brought the bike back to normal, so all is good there.. However, as mentioned before, I thought my bike handled nimbly but his bike is much more nimble than mine.. The only difference is that I have the Works shock and his has the stock OEM shock.. When I measured the rear of the bikes, at the rear corner of the right saddle bag, with the handle bars turned all the way over, and on level ground in the garage, my bike sits 1 inch taller than his at this point.. We both have leveling links installed. Does the Works shock and leveling links affect each other? I'm curious if the leveling links has my bike a little too tall now and affecting the handling a bit.. If I were to go back to OEM links, would it make a difference in the positive? Anyone else with a Works shock notice this?
  6. Seaking
    if I'm not mistaken that is the oil light coming on, which is common when dropping the hammer on this bike as the engine is revving high, the oil level goes down as it's splashing all over the place like it's supposed to.. (something like that).. This is normal.. However, I stand to be corrected..
  7. Seaking
    I have one of those cross over kits but I don't trust it to seal properly.. I installed it the other day and found the air lower and lower each time after topping it up.. Can't seem to get the knobs on tight enough onto the fork valves.. If I can a pneumatic shop that can help I might try a better set up that actually seals properly.. easier to tighten up etc.. might not be pretty but hopefully work better.
  8. Seaking
    That's just around the corner from here, thanks M8.. I'll pick some up.. Cheers
  9. Seaking
    Where do you get oil filters for under 3 bucks? not around here ya don't.. =( I'm not full convinced about these FLO filters, imagine being on a road trip and needing an oil change? erk.. it can be done by any shop.. Locally, here we have a POL recovery program at no cost to dispose of petroleum products so that's not a problem here.. But reading on their FAQ page... 4) How does this type of filtration compare to paper oil filters? We use ASTMF316 testing procedures which eliminate many of the user variables found in the SAE procedures. Basically, the filter media is pressurized from one side, and when the media starts passing particles, that is the micron rating. We sent filter media from several common brands of paper filters to the lab to be run through the ASTM test. We sent the media to the lab with no names, just numbers for identification so they wouldn't have any idea what brand filter they were testing. The results for the paper filters ranged from 48 microns for the best filter to over 300 microns for the worst filter. Our tests were right in line with other testing results we have researched that have paper media filters passing particles anywhere between 50 and 90 microns. What does this mean? Paper filters are rated on averages, percentages of efficiency (also known as beta ratios) and multiple passes, so a 10 micron rated paper filter (as advertised on the packaging) may be letting particles 50 microns and larger through. The medical grade stainless steel cloth that we use is consistent across the entire media surface and is rated at 35 microns, meaning nothing larger than 35 microns should pass through the material. The bottom line is we meet or exceed the filtration performance of OEM filters, eliminating any warranty issues.
  10. Seaking
    As everyone was saying, 7 lbs MAX is all you want to put in there lest you start blowing seals and such.. man if you had 40 psi in one and 16 in the other, that must have been a wobbly bike in the turns or hard impacting bumps on the forks.. ouch. I'm hunting for one of those small progressive zero loss air chuck pumps.. I have a 0 to 60 psi pump and all you can do with that is bring the needle up to one of the lines, but its small increments.. If someone knows where to get a 0-10 same time pump, please DO let me know.. I've not been able to find one.. My bike handles super well with the progressive springs and some air.. currently 5 lbs but I can tell one is off a tad.. but it's the best I can do with the pump I have.. Cheers M8
  11. Seaking
    I took the bike out today for the twisties and highway run and pumped the forks up to 4 or 5 lbs (hard to tell on that stupid gauge.. but less than the 7 lbs max) And WHAT a difference THAT made.. wow.. the parking lot riding is sweeter, no heaviness in the steering, no wobbling.. Less nose diving with heavy front braking.. highway speed tight curves are carving well again, and the twisties are fun again.. wow.. And I ran this bike with 0 air pressure most of last summer with no issues. But after hitting that big ramp jump of a hole on the I95, it did something to the front and rear shock of the bike that required re-adjusting everything over again.. The ride is a lot stiffer than before but tighter and smoother.. Anyone know where you can get an air pump that reads less than 30 or 60 lbs? The one I have reads to 60 lbs and you can almost get some accuracy below 10 lbs.. I remember seeing such a pump that only went up to 10 lbs by the same manufacturer but they don't seem to make them anymore.. or do they, I've never been able to find out.. Thanks for the assist and advice.. the bike rides NICE again..
  12. Seaking
    Anyone out there riding with these springs in the front, what air pressure are you running in the forks if any at all.. I was told that you needn't have to have air pressure as the springs were heavy duty enough to negate the need for air pressure. Not sure if I actually need to add air to my front end but ya never know.. ?
  13. Seaking
    And here I sit with 85,000 miles on my 2006 RSV... Hmm coulda bought two of them Anyone know how these are to be cleaned? Last time I used them in the aviation world we used ultrasonic techniques to clean them..
  14. Seaking
    Has anyone heard of or know of the FLO Oil Filters Stainless Steel Reusable Spin On Oil Filter? Re-useable / cleanable metal type oil filter supposedly tons superior to any brass or paper filter available.. $100 or so, it's not cheap but over time might be worth it? But is it worth it? Tech Overview: Constructed of laser cut, medical grade, 304 stainless steel micronic filter cloth In many cases filters provide 200 percent more filter area Stainless filter catches items down to 35 microns, which is about three times better than most good paper or brass filters Unlike glued paper filters, the FLO Oil Filter pleat seam is welded and able to withstand up to 600 degrees Filters maintain consistent flow under all conditions including extreme heat, the presence of water, and cold start ups where paper filters can flow so poorly that they often cause the bypass valve to open and allow unfiltered oil to enter your engine Should be the last filter you ever need; this high tech filter technology is widely used in all types of auto racing including NASCAR, Indy type cars, Formula 1 and in the Aerospace industry where filtration is of the utmost importance
  15. Seaking
    Yer killing me.. nice one LOL.. But yeah nice idea using PAM vegatable oil.. why not. Tres cool and many thanks!!
  16. Seaking
    Well after chatting with Rick at Buckeye, and sending him a video clip of what the shock sounds like when bouncing up and down on the bike, it turns out it's a normal sound.. just the fluid loudly doing its job flowing through the system. I turned the pre-load collar down some more and adjusted the pre-load again for less sag and the bike appears to be riding properly again. When I got the shock this spring, I had set it up properly as per instructions and the bike road OK this cold spring around here.. I must know where all the pot holes are around here as I really don't think I put the shock to the test with a big bump or hole.. But down the I95 the other week I hit a doozy of a hole that sent me flying out of my seat and the bike handled ever so weird after that.. A roadside rebound adjustment helped to quell the bike down enough to continue on the trip but some thing still wasn't right. I found myself able to straddle the bike with both heels down on the ground, indicating the rear of the bike was low.. too low. After I adjusted the collar, only took about 1/2 to 3/4 turn I'm now off the heels and the bike suspension is again very stiff. I still have to do some more test riding and aim for some normal pot holes and bumps to test it out but I think that's all it was.. Just that one big hit to show the bike wasn't set up right (by me) and the bump loosened things up.. weird. Time will tell. An emergency on the side of the road way to turn that collar is to get the weight off the rear wheel, and get a brass drift (punch) and removing the right passenger boards and side cover, you can access the collar.. some tapping on the collar in the right direction will get it turning.. There is a lot of tension on the spring so you have to get the weight off of it.. I don't know if it will turn with the bike's weight on it. If I had thought of it then early in the trip I should have tried it.. might have saved me some worry. Oh well, everything seems to be fine for now.. but time will tell.
  17. Seaking
    how about that.. good to know in case of emergency.. A few year back the rad in an old car my friend had a crack in one of the core (vertical tubes holding the water).. pepper would not have saved the day that time as the crack was too large.. However, he pulled out a potato of all things and cut an appropriate size from it and jammed it into the rad to cover the crack.. Once the fluid got hot enough, it swelled the potato and made an excellent seal.. a quick emergency fix to get us home.. Amazing some of the old time tricks we used to use.. When driving a cage through black flies infested country which would coat your car black with their suicidal carcasses, we used to coat the leading edges of the car with Vaseline.. Once you got home, you simply wiped it off and the flies wouldn't dry to the paint. I stopped at a garage to get fuel and they asked to pop the hood to check the oil (they did that in those days, remember?). The attendant's hands slipped on the Vaseline and he looked up at me quizzically to which I answered "tight garage".. lol Next time I ride down to Florida in the spring and run into those gluey sticky love bugs, I may actually use that trick.. took forever to get their junk off the bike last year.. Black pepper huh?
  18. Seaking
    That's a new one, black pepper.. what would that do to the rest of the system though (no pun intended).. A quick road side repair tucked away for future use.. Hmm
  19. Seaking
    That's the hard part of asking for help... "describing accurately" what your bike is doing or what you're feeling.. Is it drive line or carbs? How one person interprets it is different than another person and how they describe it in text is again totally different My buddy was telling me his bike would lag when he dropped the hammer at highway speeds last summer.. almost like it would pause before spooling up.. he'd tried to imitate the sound the bike would make but it didn't make sense to me. I test drove the bike and couldn't duplicate his problem. Yesterday when testing his bike to see if his was making the thumping vibes I'm experiencing, he asked if I could hunt for that problem he's had since last summer.. and it's a slipping clutch... argh.. I should have guessed it last year.. ergh but as tx2sturgis suggested, start with what costs less in time and effort and work your way up unless you definitely know what it is.. You'll get a good carb synch out of it anyway
  20. Seaking
    I have the Barnetts HD springs in there now, and I've had the misfortune of burning out my clutch a couple of times by over heating them on Advanced Rider courses last summer.. I'm either too harsh on my clutch friction zone (too high revs) or there is something inherently wrong with the setup from the previous owner as the OEM clutch started to slip not long after I owned it.. But I wouldn't know where to start looking at a possible culprit.. I've flushed my fluids a few times (yesterday) and what came out was grey and dingy looking.. But I have the synthetic DOT4 stuff in there now and hopefully that will last a little longer. I'll be pulling the plates off soon as I get a gasket and looking for a sandblaster shop that can clean them off with glass or plastic beads to get the junk out of the little holes on the steel plates, as someone had earlier suggested. The bike has been running nice and smooth since the synch yesterday but still feeling that thump.. I rode my buddy's bike to compare and it's not there on his.. Hopefully its a minor thing but will give the stuff a cleaning as you suggested. I don't think I'm brave enough to start pulling things apart though.. I watched a friend do it once and wow, too much for me to remember what he did.. Its not a large issue to live with, I can well enjoy the bike with the slight thumping but curious to know what's causing it and how to eliminate it. If I ever get rid of it I'll let you know.. Cheers M8
  21. Seaking
    A gentleman and a scholar.. Kevin and I will treat you to a good steak supper next time we're down.. (next spring lol) We almost made it down there again this year but weather (tornado threats) kept us out of the area.. Cheers
  22. Seaking
    I saw that thread.. I'll look into it tomorrow and see if I spot anything "odd".. certainly can't hurt.. Good read for sure! With the age of the bike and miles I'd racked up, there might be something there worth investigating. Cheers
  23. Seaking
    I'm using the YamaLube 10W40 up here.. same as what they put into it in Alabama.. Some say it's not the best oil you can use but its the Yamaha oil.. it can't be that bad.. However, due to the amount of miles I toss on the bike (just rolled over 85,000 miles on this trip) I go through a lot of oil and filters in the course of a summer
  24. Seaking
    The many knowledgeable and helpful people here have saved many of us RSV riders a lot of money, time and effort in sharing their knowledge and skills when it comes to our bikes. They must have the patience of Jobe to re-explain over and over the same questions posed by so many.. I met Goose and wow, the guy knows his bikes and very helpful.. Kudos to the gentleman from Texas. One of these days I'm gonna meet up with some of you at one of these Maintenance Days
  25. Seaking
    Ok so I spent a good amount of time doing my carb synch, using two different type of gauges (dial needles and Carb Tune) to confirm what I was seeing.. at 1,000 rpm idle, the carbs are perfectly synched.. but when I rev and hold the throttle at 3,000 rpm they were no longer in sync.. not by much but enough to want to try to synch them up at that higher rpm.. but back at idle rpm, one was slightly off.. Hmm.. Ok take it out for a test ride.. I think I will leave it there for now as the highway riding, where I spend most of my time riding was totally different indeed! I still have that thumping vibe which now leads me to believe it might be time to rough up the clutch plates next... But synch'ing the carbs at 3,000 rpm really made a marked improvement at the smoothness of the bike when traveling at 55 to 70 MPH (calibrated speeds). Running the bike at 70 MPH in 4th was super smooth and impressive on this bike, I actually had to verify I was in 4th and turning at 4,000 rpm.. wow.. now THAT was fun.. MUCH! Keep in mind that the difference is half a bar on the gauge, but man.. I'm sold. I'll be running it this way for a while to see if anything else appears different over time. Now to de-glaze the clutch discs.. hopefully that will cure the thumping I feel (little up here in the north, a lot down in the south last week) Cheers
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