Seaking

You've been under the fairing to check all connectors are in tight and solid? Did you check to see if any of the cables (even the one going up to the controller) are cut or munged? Pull the fairing off, locate the large connector bundles near the radio box and check those out.. I had a similar problem with mine a while back and for what ever reason, the cables running down around the neck were being squeezed tight (improperly routed by previous owner) and oddly enough seemed like they were being squeezed so tight as to not let the electrons flow.. lol.. But once I rerouted them to take the pressure off, every thing worked perfectly.. Best of luck

oooh nice, I'll have to check this one out as the current Ram mount placement puts the Zumo450 in front of the left speaker, and blocks some of the indicator lights on the dash.. Thanks for the link.

Preload would mean how much tension you put on the shock spring by turning a large collar to compress the spring more or less to smooth out your ride. if you have a 150 lbs rider, he requires less preload.. if you have a manly rider (cough cough) he requires a lot more preload which is accomplished by turning that collar.. and unfortunately its buried under the bike when the shock is installed, and not the easiest thing to adjust.. so the remote preload adjuster is perfect for the rider who often goes two up riding.. he can easily adjust his preload for solo or two up riding and have a very comfortable ride. I think Cruiser Customizer might have that one listed wrong, as it might be for the newer VStar 1300.. the 07 and up models is a give away since most parts on 99 to current Ventures are compatible.. Close.. darn close.. Just not enough Ventures on the road to make it their while to mass produce.. le big sigh

As many have indicated, its more how well the bike is maintained than what the actual mileage is on the bike. I purchased my 2006 in 2008 with 20,000 miles on it but the bike was plagued with a lot of problems, mostly all due to improper maintenance and add-ons by the previous owners. Since then, and 80,000 miles later, the bike is such awesome condition, I'd have no problems jumping on it and doing a cross continent trip on it.. such confidence in this bike now. Bikes with higher mileage would show some signs of wear and tear, and some of the things to look for, in my opinion based on my experiences, would be the filters, air fuel and oil.. how often had these been changed and how frequently? The fuel filter is often neglected due to its location and for some, the difficulty of changing it. I relocated mine under the seat so I have no excuse for changing it now.. A bad fuel filter led to the premature failure of the fuel pump. Fuel pumps seem to go on these bikes, but they are not all that expensive to replace and easy to change out yourself. Neck bearings, have the bike up on a jack and do the steering bounce check and travel movement (grab wheel at the front and pull and push to see if it knocks or has a lot of movement. Remedy is to regrease the bearings but since you have to pull them to do so, might as well just put new ones in. There is also a 'poor man's adjustment' you can do to tighten them up.. See if this needs work or not. Not too expensive but makes a world of difference on the ride.. While there, might as well have the forks serviced, most people never get this done though it's a recommended maintenance procedure.. Check the front tire for cupping, it may be an indication of a loose neck, or low tire pressure. Rear shocks, though the bike is rideable with the OEM shock when it's lost it's oil, (I rode mine for a year before realizing it was dead, and the warranty replacement died a week after warranty was up on the bike.. blech) since replaced with a Works shock. The rear shock should be checked for leaks and such, as recommended by others. Again, something easy enough to do at home. While back there, also check the swing arm bearings for looseness. Mine was quite loose and after redoing it the bike tracked a lot nicer on the road. If you do purchase an older bike, see about having "leveling links" installed to make it an easier bike to handle at slower speeds. Clutch.. I replaced mine a couple of times already. They do tend to go after a lot of miles. I've read where most times its around the 40 to 50,000 miles if not earlier. Some last the life of the bike.. I first installed the PCW Racing clutch kit but didn't like how it left my friction zone way out there, so after a while I put in the Barnetts spring and plates kit and that made a world of difference.. solid. Again something you can easily do at home.. Valves.. On older bikes, if this hasn't been checked during it's life time, will most likely need some adjustment. You can tell if your valves are way out by riding down the highway and pressing your knuckles against the tank.. if you feel a high buzzing vibes, it may well indicate your valves are out of adjustment. Goose showed me how to do the valves and this was one of the little things I noticed since having it done. Most RSV will have a loud "whine" noise from the gears at some speeds and gears selections, and this alone is enough to turn people off from owning this bike. Mine is probably louder than most but I don't hear it anymore, I'm enjoying the bike too much to notice it.. (and louder pipes drown it out some too I don't think a loud whine indicates anything wrong with the bike but various parts replacements have been known to quell that noise down. Radios can be either spot on or iffy on the older bikes, depending on how well it's been stored (indoors or outdoors).. usually a quick fix with some connector adjustments etc. Other things to look for on older bikes is to check the trunk lid hinges and attachment points for any cracks etc. Best of luck, these are awesome bikes to travel on.. Hope some of this helps.. Cheers

I found these to be VERY bright on my bike.. http://www.customdynamics.com/yamaha_turn_signal_retro.htm

Its the 'pumping' of the fluid that builds the pressure to allow the check valve in the speedbleeders to operate and not allow air back up into the system. This is why they are great for the one man job of bleeding the brakes. When you pump the brake lever, with the reservoir open so you can monitor the fluid levels and keep topping it up, you're forcing the new fluid down through the system, building up pressure, pushing any residual air bubbles and old fluid out through the speedbleeder as the check valve is pushed aside to allow the fluid out, and prevent air from coming back up into the bleeder.. I could be wrong but that's how I interpret the instructions and how I've been shown to use the speedbleeders, and that works. Its not that I'm getting into semantics over terminology, but querying how speedbleeders in the clutch system is supposed to work when you can't build up pressure to displace the check valve.. just opening the speedbleeder enough to let the fluid flow is the same as having the OEM bleeder in place.. Cheers

Can anyone explain HOW a speedbleeder is used for the clutch bleeding? The way the speedbleeders work is by building up pressure from behind to dislodge the spring loaded check valve to get the fluid flowing past it without it allowing any bleed back (air) into the system.. But if you've bled the clutch before, this isn't the case, you can't build up the pressure, as the fluid squirts out the top via the vent hole.. so how is a speedbleeder supposed to work in the clutch system? Just curious..

I have one of these mounted on the bike.. looks great and easy to install.. Lovin it..

This is all dependent on your local Motor Vehicle Act (MVA) Here in Nova Scotia, it states that they shall be of a colour between white and orange.. So it works for me. I have mine white which I prefer though I realize they might not stand out as well as bright amber colour would in contrast..

On the RSV, everything is easily hidden under the fairing.. To be honest I can't remember what the front of a RSTD looks like or what areas you might have to tuck and hide things under.. All the components are black except the ballast which is silver metal in colour.. My buddy, with a Nomad has the same one installed and the only thing you notice is the ballast where he mounted it on the side of the neck. I think it's about 4 square inches or so and less than an inch thick.. only one more part that is black isn't bigger.. Next time I see a RSTD I'll check it out and let you know.. Cheers

Thanks.

Thanks for the info.. Another refill of fresh DOT4 won't hurt Cheers

After flushing out my clutch oil today because it was 'dark' in the sight glass, I notice it's still 'dark' in the sight glass after all fresh new DOT 4 went into the system.. The brake reservoir sight glass shows bright oil but the clutch is still showing dark oil.. Is this due to a dirty sight glass and can it be cleaned? Cheers

I've been on several bike forums in the past and this one is the best one yet.. Well informed, helpful people with tons of experience. no flames, no trolls and just the occasional well intended barb for good measure Money well spent.. And yes, nods to the Frogg Toggs.. I'd always thought that they would be the wimpiest and inefficient rain garment whenever I had seen them but after your first torrential downpour, you quickly appreciate how well they work in repelling rain and keeping you cool. My previous set of rain gear were excellent HH set that were water proof but didn't breathe so you sweated and ended up wet anyway.. Not the case with the Froggs.

That's very odd.. the last three oils changes I've done in the last 30 days had the same results.. I always change my filter when I do an oil change, and let the bike sit a while when it's draining.. Upright to as much of the dirty oil out of the bike as possible.. But with 3.5 bottles, I'm just at the top of the sight glass when checking after starting the engine and letting the fluids settle down again.. (I sit on the bike, hold it level and use an extension mirror to look down at the sight gauge) I appreciate the fact that the book calls for 3.9q of oil but that would be when it's completely drained (new or rebuilt) cuz every time we do an oil change there is always some left behind oil puddled up inside the engine that doesn't drain out.. Regardless, drain it when its hot so the oil flows easier, top it up to the proper level in the sight glass when the bike is on it's wheels and level.. run it up (to fill the filter), and top it up as or if required..

With the bike up on a stand, and the front end allowed to make contact with the steering stops, a properly adjusted steering system should allow you to push the bars freely to one side until they make contact with the steering stops, bounce once and come back to rest against the stops.. (If you have risers, make sure those aren't making contact with the plastic cover on the tank..) Too tight and they might not make it to the stops or hit the stops and not bounce back.. Make for stiff steering. Too loose and they hit the stops and keep on bouncing.. bouncing... until they come to a rest against the stops. Makes for sloppy steering and worn out bearings.. While the bike is up on the stand, grab the lower forks at the axle while the bars are straight and pull forward and push backwards, there should not be any play in there either.. if you have play in there, it will feel like a thunk thunk.. a sign your bearing may be done.. Hope that helps.. (and if someone feels my info is erroneous, please do correct me)

I just had my steering bearings replaced properly in June and it still have that nice bounce back as it should, forks evenly balanced with 6 PSI and with progressive springs in them (I like a stiff ride And I too have that 'click or tick tick' when coming onto the front brakes.. not distracting or loud or overly cause for issue but curious to know what's causing it.. I checked everything up closed, torque checked everything and there is nothing amiss.. All is good.. But curious to know what might be causing that little noise.. I notice it more when coming to a stop sign / light and applying the front brake sharply.. ideas?

Yeah the 'rebound' adjustment takes some playing with to find that just perfect feel.. But the "sag" as they describe in the adjustment directions is where the firmness or stiffness of the ride comes in.. I installed mine this past winter and rode most of the spring on what I thought were good settings for the roads around here.. but after smashing into a harsh pot hole on the I95 I found the settings needed to be readjusted once again.. According to the superb tech support I got, the shock was deemed to be OK but needed to be re-adjusted.. and all was good after that.. Just a freak pot hole incident that killed my front tire though.. I keep my front forks at 6psi with the progressive springs in them and I end up with a nice stiff ride that cuts the curves well and handle quite responsively for a massive bike like this.. BTW, when you adjust your rebound screw, do you feel it "click" into position or does it just turn without feeling clicks?

Wow, after a week long road trip with the bar snake installed what a HUGE difference that made in riding comfort and endurance.. though once in a while I can feel a buzz in my hands, it was never enough to numb them or cause discomfort. Truly amazing and impressive.. Worth every penny

Fer sur!! looking forward to it =) Whats the dates for the Kruisin? Cheers

So says the lucky bastid who lives out in the mountains to the poor sods who live out the middle of no where... SIGH Though we enjoy beautiful scenery routes in Nova Scotia, the one big problem we have is that to go any where else, we have to travel the same 8 hours of highway before we get to change direction to some where different.. Gotta drive west through NS and NB and then decide in Moncton to go north or south.. and then to the US border or up through PQ.. Next summer, I'm planning on doing a cross country run from Cape Spear, NFLD to BC.. Looking forward to the mountains.

hi Sam, the size of your windscreen CAN affect your gas mileage enough to notice. I have several windscreens for my bike and can EASILY tell you that the Tall Wide Clearview installed is harder on the mileage than the shorty windshield installed.. Why? Simply a lot to do with aerodynamics. On a very windy day, you'll notice with our bikes that you get much better mileage going downwind than traveling head on into a stiff wind. The large fairings on the bike catch so much wind, its like riding with a parachute dragging behind you. Add a larger windscreen and you add to this. Same is to be said about going faster.. I couldn't figure out how the heck people were getting 45 - 50 MPG on their bikes while I was lucky to get 32-38 mpg at best! But then realized after chatting with some of them that your actual riding speed has a lot to do with it.. I tend to travel in the 70 to 80 mph zone (true speed) compared to their 50-55 mph speeds.. So I to conserve fuel and get farther down the road, I slow it down a lot and get super mileage.. but that's boring You stated you installed a 'shorter but wider' windshield on the bike and suffered significant mileage drop? Is this consistent or just noticed it on that one trip? Winds, speeds, hills etc can affect your fuel consumption on this bike a lot.. It could be purely coincidental that something else is wrong with your bike that suddenly sparked up just after you installed the new windshield.. best of luck!

I'll tell you one thing about the F4 windshield.. they can take a hit and keep on ticking.. On a recent road trip I took a rock right dab in the middle of the windshield and what a loud SMACK noise it made.. scared the begeesus out of me.. I could see the rock coming (falling off a semi way in front of me, it must have bounced a few times before I actually saw it).. I tucked my chin down so it would hit my helmet and not my face as it might crash through the windshield but no.. SMACK-cha'wing noise and all was good.. I dunno if an OEM windshield would have survived that impact.. I'm impressed. I've ridden with the F4 all summer and it's still in great shape, no scratched but just the small nick left behind from that one rock.. Unfortunately, the windshield is just a tad too tall for me, I need it perhaps 2 inches shorter to look over properly. Because the cost of getting it cut for me is more than buying a new (albeit lesser quality) windscreen, I'll have to replace it.. If I attempt to cut it myself and pooch the job, then I'm out a windscreen anyway which is why I won't attempt cutting it.. But man, what a great solid piece of windscreen..

NICE riding trip.. Sounds like you should join my buddy and I on a road trip lol We just finished an 8,000 + kms road trip through the USA (chased westward by Irene no less), riding 10-12 hours a day on the highways in 7 days.. All over this side of the USA, Maine, NH, NY, Carolinas, Virginias, Kentucky, Pennsylvania, Ohio, Indiana, Illinois and Michigan.. And on the return trip home, rode from Pickering Ontario to Dartmouth NS, 1,850 kms in 22 hours non-stop.. stopping long enough for fuel, bilge pumping and a little rest here and there.. And that's the Saddle Sore run for ya, though it only asks for 1600 kms (1000 miles) in 24 hours.. And the Venture makes all that riding soooo nice..

YAY!! Eagerly awaiting the photos, like many others I'm guessing.. =)