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mbrood

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Everything posted by mbrood

  1. mbrood
    Those dimples in the can/base junction look like they could be straightened so you could pull the can off and see if you can't repair it... it's not going to hurt much.
  2. mbrood
    The southern Idaho potato fields are that way... after a good irrigation you REALLY don't want to wander off the road. We had a tractor/trailer driver decide that he could take a "shortcut" between fields. The cab started to sink so he pulled the logical trick... gun it and get through. Once it sank to the bed of the tractor frame and trailer (forget the axles, they sank in first.) he thought it a jim-dandy time to bail. We had one heck of a time digging mud and building wood board ramps. The cost for just the boards was pretty steep and thank goodness the trailer was empty. The tractor took about 4 days... it was obviously much further in than the trailer. It also took a D9 but he had to go crosswise on the road, reset the tackle, back up and take another few feet. I was a mechanic for the farm and more than happy with letting it sit until the ground firmed up but the farm owner was of a different mindset. I thought it rather hilarious until I got shovel duty... wasn't so darned funny after that.
  3. mbrood
    A short must be between all three wires. Black is ground, one makes the dash idiot light go out and one goes to the sidestand relay. I have been "surprised" on other bike when I forgot and left the sidestand down when taking off... rather nasty with a beast as big as these... that light is REAL handy !!!
  4. mbrood
    The CV carbs NEED to see a specific restriction to air intake which the opening in the airbox lid provides... you can pull the filter and put the airbox lid back on and recheck... if there's a difference you would do well to toss the air filter.
  5. mbrood
    If you reamed the pilot air jets (#5). I would definitely replace but those are behind the diaphragms and could be done with the carb rack mounted. Since these see only air, I can't imagine them clogged, though. If you had the carb fuel bowls open, it would critical to clean the corresponding pilot fuel jets (#15) as these are super fine holes and prone to buildup and clogging. If it's THOSE you reamed... yep, pull the carb bank. Remember that you can split the bank with left and right pairs and work on the back of them like that... I've seen some that say an oversized hole can be soldered shut and redrilled but that fuel flow is also a tiny bit abrasive, SLOWLY trying to wear at the brass... so soft solder is not a long term fix in my opinion... especially with what's involved in getting back in there again. I've mounted my rack and it "looked" fully seated but she ran like junk... I pulled them back up and "really" cleaned the lower carb mount throat and the inner boots at the seal... I too used a bit of grease to ease mount... this time they seemed to "pop" into place rather than "ease down" like earlier and she was ever so much happier! If you can spray around the boots an affect idle, you have an air leak and vacuum proved it.
  6. mbrood
    The nauga's hide is very sensitive to extended sun and the surface breaks down and turns into a gum type coating... it doesn't matter if the nauga was range raised or from a ranch... once exposed to enough sun it gets that way... here's a silly hint... try gas... soak a rag and lay it on the surface for a while and then another soaked rag will do a pretty reasonable job of wiping the "gum" off. Goo-Off and several other "removers" were tried but this method worked best for me... and a LOT cheaper!
  7. mbrood
    Per the drawing... from 1k rpm to about 2.5 k, the idle mixture jet (#10) is a primary fuel meter. As the slide retracts, your #16 takes over... so probably 2k - 4k? When the throttle is very open, then #15 is uncovered and this is the MAIN fuel jet... so I would think you just richened the midrange, probably dumping unburnt fuel out into the exhaust. If you eased it up and eased it down, the transiotion would probably allow the fuel to be more efficiently burned and not notice backfire... aggressive throttle and when you back off... pow... but that's just my thinking !
  8. mbrood
    The "TCI disable" (here called B/W Kiickstand SW) kills the ignition if, in gear the sidestand is lowered, the tipover switch is detected or the "engine kill" switch is engaged... so you have three main areas to look at. The side stand switch is actually two parts, one goes to the dash monitor and the other to the TCI. Check page 7-3 of the service manual for these... http://www.bergall.org/temp/venture/pdf/8385servicemanual.pdf
  9. mbrood
    With the ignition ON, you should read +12 volts at each of the coil outputs on the TCI. With the ignition OFF, you should see a resistance reading of about 23k Ohm from the ignition fuse to each of the inside of the spark plug caps (10 for the reistor in the cap and 13 for the ignition coil secondary winding).
  10. mbrood
    Check to see if pin "D" is grounded.. if it is... one of the safety switches is killing the ignition. You can actually back the pin out of the white housing and the ignition WILL be turned back ON... but it won't care if the side stand is up or down or if the kill switch is thrown or not.http://www.bergall.org/temp/venture/tci/tciplugs.jpg
  11. mbrood
    Here's the thing, it's not the metal grind of pad rivet to rotor... more like the sound when your bracket fails and you drag a muffler... My friend's 84 has had a "griding" sound when medium to hard brake is applied. Not constant but seems to come and go. We changed the rear pads (for giggles I guess) and the old ones showed lots of life but we still put new ones on. Added the supplied lub to the back of the pad, cleaned all the parts and assembled. He was tickled for about a week and then called again...
  12. mbrood
    I believe these wedge bulbs are called T-10 style... nonetheless, most auto shops around me sell one or two but no wattage indicated. WalMart carried a fair variety from 3 to 5 watts... the normal being 3. (My 86 2nd gen calls for 3.4 watt versions) You can replace these with fundamentally brighter LED variants but remember, they aren't incandescent so when you try to "dim them" the rate of change between them can be fairly severe. For static ligting these are just great but ganged on a dimmer is not as consistant and their "cutoff" is much higher than the incandecent so you probably end up with a shorter and "finer" dim control from max. with nothing near the min. end.
  13. mbrood
    I would also do an immediate OHM reading of that spark coil... They should all read in the same tolerance around 2.7 Ohms.
  14. mbrood
    I noticed that my clutch fluid needed bled to get good clutch action and then a couple days later`would need it again. The rebuild kit went in fairly easy and the seals that came out were deteriorated to little more than gum rubber, able to be crumbled in my fingers. Sure solved the problem.
  15. mbrood
    If the valve assembly isn't routing air from the compressor and through it to the front or rear, the line from the copmpressor to the valve assembly represents a TINY enclosed system so the pressure WOULD rise almost immediately... sounds like the valve assembly needs attention.
  16. mbrood
    Just in front of the side stand is the left engine side cover and the timing pickup and alternator wiring exit through a rubber grommet at the rear... It sounds like with the engine turning and the oil splashing around, it's leaking there and when you stop the bike the oil level drops below that point... you would do well to pull the middle gear cover and check... the bottom bolt has a copper washer as it's a "through bolt" into the engine so that needs to be the last bolt out and quickly put back in when the middle gear cover comes off. Yeah, you'll probably need a new middle gear cover gasket ! It might not leak when on the center stand or when rolling down the street, but leaned over on the side stand aggrivates the oil level on that side.
  17. mbrood
    I actually thought they were going to describe the heads up display (eyes), the audiotory detectors (ears)... multilevel analytical analyzer... (brain)... marvelous inventions !
  18. mbrood
    European description of avoidance technology for motorcycles... gone ALL wrong... http://biertijd.com/mediaplayer/?itemid=21816
  19. mbrood
    The rotor bolt is torqued to 94 ft-lb while the starter clutch assembly bolts need 17 ft-lb and staked.
  20. mbrood
    26H-82566-00-00 side stand switch. Bike Bandit $81.22 Zanotti Motor $57.51 https://www.zanottimotor.com/shopping/pLookUp.php
  21. mbrood
    I've only worked out the tray interconnect for the cassette... http://www.bergall.org/temp/venture/radio%20tray.jpg
  22. mbrood
    VentureBob, if THAT wire is in series with the 2.2K resistor to switched +12 volts, the battery icon should go out... if the key is on when you connect it, it won't respond... it has to SEE the connection when the key is turned on.
  23. mbrood
    The "TCI disable" (here called B/W Kiickstand SW) kills the ignition if, in gear the sidestand is lowered, the tipover switch is detected, the "engine kill" switch is engaged... any of these provide a ground to pin "D" on the TCI large connector... pop it out and you have no ignition disable... however, after you resolve your ingnition issues, you need to keep in mind you have bypassed these safety switches ! You also need to insure that, with the small TCI connector removed and the ignition switch "on" that you have 12 volts on pins 2,3,6 and 7 (from the ignition fuse, and through the coil primaries.). http://www.bergall.org/temp/venture/tci/tciplugs.jpg
  24. mbrood
    although a bit more work... removed, the service manual check is: http://www.bergall.org/temp/venture/oil-level.jpg
  25. mbrood
    The nuts holding the power transistors stay... you've pulled the 5 screws, now you need to CAREFULLY desolder the 14 connections to the output connectors. http://www.bergall.org/temp/venture/tci/tci2.jpg
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