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mbrood

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Everything posted by mbrood

  1. mbrood
    "When I turned the key to start the bike again, everything powered on...but when I hit the starter button...NOTHING!!" Assuming this meant that the STARTER failed to engage or the starter soilonoid to "click"... this means we aren't dealing with an ignition inhibit like the sidestand or gear position/clutch safety on that issue. However, when she died on the road, that indicates either one of the "safeties" kickied in or power was lost. It seems to only commonality is power. Although the clips may mechanically be holding the fuses, these holders are older and brittle, first insure that they are clean in the contact area and then GENTLY try to rotate them in their holder, there should be definite resistance to this, not locked but a solid resistance. Rebending them to get more tension is REAL tricky as they will tend to crack, opening up a new kettle of fish. New clips are out there but tricky to find. Even a dash lightbulb with a 1' insulated wire soldered to the side makes a dandy voltage detector... when she dies, you could pull the false tank cover, open the fuse box, put the tip of the bulb on a good ground and probe the other end of the wire to the RIGHT side fuse clip of the ignition fuse holder with the ignition switch on... if she lights, check the others (since you are there). The small bulb and wire hides in a jacket or shirt pocket pretty easy. If there's no light there, there's no power getting to the ignition circuits, probe the clip on the LEFT side... there BETTER be power there or we are looking more toward the ignition switch.
  2. mbrood
    The cover is pressing on the intermediate starter gear. The cover needs to come back off and it needs to have the stock gasket, The tolerance for the intermediate starter gear is VERY sensitive to the correct fit on the cover. You can use an adhesive with the gasket but silicon is OUT around gas and oil, it breaks down and clocks stuff... hondabond #4 worked great for me, stays flexible and when it is needed, it cleans off pretty darned well...
  3. mbrood
    Ya mean we aren't suppose to hill climb or cross-country on these? I personally know that hidden cow pies are also instant death to traction.
  4. mbrood
    Anyone who ever raised a kid (or was one) will appreciate this. Click here: Biertijd.com // Media » Tablecloth Trick
  5. mbrood
    I would think simply pulling the needle and carefully repositioning it at or very near the end post should make everything happy.
  6. mbrood
    The boost sensor controls the timing advance but I don't see how that can change the fuel/air mixture. Most of the air jets can be checked for the proper size (they are stamped on the end) here's the main area to look and then there's one in behind the diaphragm. If somebody was trying to "optimize performance..." they may have downsized the fuel jets or increased the air jets. http://www.bergall.org/temp/venture/carbsup.jpg Here's a link to the stock main jets number in the different bikes. http://www.bergall.org/temp/venture/venture-carb-part-differences.html
  7. mbrood
    I would include a buried extra key, some coiled 14 gauge electrical wire, crimp connetors and electrical tape (this shorter length can be respooled around a small bolt)
  8. mbrood
    Heck, and here I thought it would be about being laid off from work, or a divorce !
  9. mbrood
    I am probably wrong, but all of the after-market metal radiator protectors I have seen were for the 1200 and thus the logo.
  10. mbrood
    Wiring inside a harness is seldom damaged (hence the use) however connectors are almost always suspect on older units. I would use a straight pin and an Ohmmeter... holding the needle against one of the meter leads, shove in into the wire just a bit back from the connector and put the other meter lead at the other end connector, reverse if no problem found.
  11. mbrood
    The starter switch has dual contacts so they should BOTH be shorted when the button is pushed and both be open when it's relaxed. There's a write-up in the tech section near the top.
  12. mbrood
    Springs don't get longer... they fatigue and get shorter... stretching one does not return it's original force, only it's fatigued length. Remember, the piston slides in a very tight sleeve and THAT hole in the end is a calibrated relief. Holes or tears in the diaphragm alter the effectiveness and rate of piston movement.
  13. mbrood
    A real handy reason to have one of those canned air, air horns... check any marine supply !
  14. mbrood
    One trick to separating thin parts is masking tape... wrap them in several sections and then work one section at a time, retaping as you go. A good single edge razor blade, carefully drawn to create the main "path" and then many fairly soft passes also gets away from the need to use pressure which is doom.
  15. mbrood
    Just pressed in and then the rubber snubber is pushed forward and the cap holds it all... use a pin or awl to make the hole in the end of the wire to aid shoving it in.
  16. mbrood
    The webpage cannot be found Most likely causes: There might be a typing error in the address. If you clicked on a link, it may be out of date
  17. mbrood
    If you are talking about the rubber nubs on the 1st gen... I used a soda straw, slice it and put one end in the hole and the other over the nub the worked them together to get the nub in... There's probably an easier way, and yeah, silicon spray helps LOTS of things!!!
  18. mbrood
    It's a solid metalic "tap"... not a rattle or creaking. No sound until it's up around 1500 then follows the rev rate but obviously at a reduced rate which speaks of valves, lifters and such.
  19. mbrood
    Not real experienced with this but it sounds like a lifter problem. Motor oil is up to level? I would put a long screw driver against the head of one bank section on one side and against your ear and rev it, listening for an increased level... repeat for each bank half.
  20. mbrood
    Most guys start with a couple holes drilled in the plate to see what they have so far... It's an easier route than straight pipes.
  21. mbrood
    An interesting option. You would need to gut the collector (do away with it ideally) and then gut the mufflers. Now you have a free ported V4 that you probably won't be able to start in your neighborhood due to city, county and state regulations. You WOULD need to rejet as you wouldn't have the designed backpressure of the standard exhaust. Real testing would need a dyno and a skilled technician to get the jetting back to a mildly rich setting but it's certainly able to be done. Please remember that sale value would be lowered considerably and proper mufflers reattached to make any sale valid. Most state vehicle inspections would likely be a real problem. Perferating or removing the last muffler plate will increase the sound dramatically while still holding the looks and probably legal decibel limits. A guy a few blocks away runs an open Triumph 650 and it's EASY to tell his work schedule. BUT he has a set of mufflers he can throw on when he needs to. I just figure, if it scares the dogs, the neighbors can't be too happy.
  22. mbrood
    Mechanically on the 86, I don't think it matters one little bit, there are bolt plates on the left and right. Original (and traditional) location is on the right.
  23. mbrood
    Yep, the picture is as she was suppose to be. Since it's a on the coupler for the choke mechanism, you wouldn't want ANYTHING messin' with it. There's a couple more, on the other side I think. They do look a little odd but we put 'em back like we found 'em !
  24. mbrood
    It's just a spacer for the 1-2 choke linkage. The "pull open" throttle cable routes into the large metal sleeve above it.
  25. mbrood
    HOW TO IDENTIFY WHERE A DRIVER IS FROM One hand on wheel, one hand on horn: Chicago One hand on wheel, one finger out window: New York One hand on wheel, one hand on newspaper, foot solidly on accelerator: Boston One hand on wheel, cradling cell phone, brick on accelerator: California. With gun in lap: L.A. Both hands on wheel, eyes shut, both feet on brake, quivering in terror: Ohio, but driving in California. Both hands in air, gesturing, both feet on accelerator, head turned to talk to someone in back seat: Italy One hand on latte, one knee on wheel, cradling cell phone, foot on brake, mind on game: Seattle One hand on wheel, one hand on hunting rifle, alternating between both feet being on the accelerator and both on the brake, throwing a McDonalds bag out the window: Texas Four wheel drive pickup truck, shotgun mounted in rear window, beer cans on floor, squirrel tails attached to antenna: West Virginia Two hands gripping wheel, blue hair barely visible above window level, driving 35 on the interstate in the left lane with the left blinker on: Florida
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