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Showing results for tags 'plug'.
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Yesterday I pulled up beside a group of Harley's at a stop light. One guy was yelling and gesturing to the bike in front of him. (beside me) The guy beside me bent over and picked up a chrome plug that fell off the end of his handle bar. And here I thought you guys were just joking about Harley's losing parts.
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After reinstalling the forks and top triple tree clamp I can't find the harness end of the ignition plug. It's red and should stand out like Santa Claus at the beach but I've spent over an hour poking around in there and could not find it. Where should I look for the harness end?
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well I finally after 25 yrs of riding I finally got a nail in my back tire. I went ahead and put in a plug and I'm thinking it should get me to the end of the year. I plan on new tires next spring so the 1,000 miles or so left in this season seems like no big deal. I have plugged car tires with good results so hoping this should be the same. what sez all you wise people.
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I made one of these and it works perfectly. I used old motor oil for the liquid. Sync #1 to #2, then plug those and sync #3 to #4. Then hook up tool to #2 and #4 to sync left side to right side (make sure to plug ports on #1 and #3).
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I work overnights and last week on two different mornings the bike turned over but would not start at first. I cranked it repeatedly and after awhile it was like flipping a light switch it started. Figured it was the plug wires from the morning dew. I changed the wires and the plug caps over the weekend and rode it to work Monday. Tuesday morning it would crank and occasionally pop but not fire up. I even pulled the top of the airbox off and gave it a good shot of starting fluid and it still would not start. I left it sit and caught a ride home from a coworker. Went to work last night when it was warm and dry out and it started with the touch of the button. The tci has been moved to the top of the airbox and is covered. I can ride in the rain without any issues. When it's popping and not starting it almost sounds like the timing is off, and will all of a sudden backfire through the exhaust. Could this be corrosion in the plug to the pick-up? Any thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks, Ray -
Are the plug wires screwed into the coils the same way the caps screw to the opposite end, or are they just pressure fit into the coils?
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Had a flat on the trailer about 3 weeks ago. I think I can plug it though.
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For the most part, at anything above idle, my stock voltage gauge reads 14ish. Lately, it's been getting up there but it seemed a bit random. Tonight, I checked the wires leading to the R/R and man...did I ever get there just in time. One of the wires from the 3 prong plug had gotten so hot, it not only melted the plug, it heated up the connector enough to slide out of the crimp. One slight tug and it came completely free. I have been going over my bike and re-seating and greasing plugs as I come to them...I was planning on doing this anyway but damn...there was some serious puckering happening when I saw that bare wire. I pulled all the connectors out of the burned and melted plug, cleaned them up and plugged the wires together, without the plug, and insulating them. A quick startup showed the volts at around 14...right off of idle and steady as a rock no matter the load. Moral of the story; check those plugs. If you catch them in time, you may save yourself the time and effort of getting stranded and buying a new R/R. -
Alright I really want to thank all of you for your help. I have narrowed it down to my front right cylinder with no spark. Pulled the plug and it is as clean as when it went in. Where do I go from here
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My buddy who has a Triumph Tiger 1050 and I went on a three day, 1450 mile run last week through Western Colorado and Southern Utah. The second day rained much of the day, but still a nice scenic ride. Pulled into the Motel about 5 PM. While walking back from dinner, my buddy noticed a small (1/8") rock embedded in the middle of his rear tire. While trying to remove the rock, he noticed that it had put a small hole in the tire. This tire was near the end, about 1/32" above the wear bar. We couldn't believe our good luck, finding this in the Motel lot instead of on the side of the road. It had even quit raining. My buddy's string type repair kit's glue had dried out. I said not to worry, I have a "Stop and Go" kit http://www.stopngo.com/ and a Slime air compressor. I have had this kit for a couple of years, but never used it and all of the plugs were still sealed in the original plastic bag. The plug went right in and the tire aired up with no leaks. The next morning we checked the tire and it had not loss an ounce of pressure so off we went. We made it about 20 miles (two lane highway) when it went flat. The plug was gone. No choice but to install another plug. Plug once again went right in and held good. Off we went again. This time we made it about 5 miles before the tire went flat. At this point, we were about 25 miles from the nearest town. I rode to town to get a string type repair kit. My buddy installed a new plug. This time he made it about 2 miles before it went flat. Same thing, plug gone. When I returned, we installed the old fashion string and glue repair kit. This plug held the full 400+ miles home. I don't know what went wrong, but I am presuming that a steel cord cut the mushroom head off of the plug when the tire was in motion. Don't know if reaming the hole out better would have made a difference, but the bottom line is that the old style string and glue kit held. My buddy was suppose to ask the tire tech what he found in the old tire, but I have not heard.
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I am thinking of going to ride the Dragon next week. I really know nothing of it. Does anyone have an address of something in the area that I could Plug into my gps to get me there? Thanks
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I started up the bike and started pulling off the spark plug wires one at a time. The ideal change on all them but right rear. I pull the plug and put a new one in and put the plug wire back on and pulled back of the ideal didnt change like the others. i pulled the wire back off and i could hear it fireing and as i was pulling the wire out I could see the arc and it shock me. any ideas. my #843-452-8615 my name is Brantley -
last night i was having issues with not all cylinders running at the same time, i had no to low fire on a rear cylinder so i popped of the cap while running to see if the was any change in idle. and as soon as the cap cleared the plug i got some good zaps so it would seem my caps and wires are no good. where can i get the best replacement? -
I'm going over my 87 Standard, trying to resolve this miss that the ol' gal acquired. While I'm at it, I'm changing the carb diaphragms, which has needed done for a while, small holes in the first two I changed out. (A much easier job than I thought it'd be) I got a set of replacement spark plug wires, and a set of used coils on the way just in case I need one. The coils don't seem easily accessible, and I'll need to get at them to replace the wires, and I'd like to check the coils themselves while I'm at it. Do I need to remove the entire fairing, or can I get at them by removing the battery or what? I'm sure if I do a search I'll find the checkout procedure for the coils, but if anyone knows the quick and dirty on that, please lemme know. I'll also take a look at the plug for the TCI that I've seen mentioned so much. Any info on not making more of a job of this than need be would be appreciated. Thanks. -
number 2 carb wont sync
OrlinEngh posted a topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
On my 84 Venture I have 1,3,and 4 synced but number 2 will not, It also when warmed up will go from 1000 rpm to 2000 rpm up and down and have noticed a small back fire when running down the road. And at a idle you can hear it miss and then smooth out. I have good fire to number 2 spark plug. I checked the slide when runing and moves the same as the rest and checked the diaphragm and it looks good cant find any holes. Orlin -
went to NAPA this morning to get a spark plug socket to change my plugs(none of mine fit the NGK). Was advised by buddy up there that it is 18mm and they don't carry a spark plug socket to fit it....OK here comes stupid question,WHAT DO YOU GUYS USE TO CHANGE YOUR PLUGS WITH? Just a regular 18mm deep socket? or do I have to get one from the Yamaha dealer.OR??????????
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I got a leak from the oil plug. I don't know if it is the plug or the oil pan threads that are stripped but I would assume that it is the oil pan threads. What do I have to do to fix this? I have a 8 hr trip to Sioux City planned for Friday. Iowa Guy
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I love listening to my tunes on my Android phone plugged into the Aux socket. When the right channel went dead, I checked all the connections and the head phones. Tried the radio... STEREO! Checked the plug and lead. DAMMIT! The end piece of the plug had broken off. Found it! Inside the socket on the bike. Any suggestions on how to get that little sucker out of there? (2008 Venture.)
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Alright i know spark plug replacement should be straight forward. But I've used every swear word i know, and I've even made up a few. I'm trying to get the new plug into the front cylinder on mt 85 venture royale. the other three went right in. do i have to take off the whole front to gain easy access to that spark plug. Pl;ease help, I'm at my wits end. thanx Lazy
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Did this on the Wing so posting here ... The dilemma I was facing was how to put together a nice, clean, somewhat out of the way wiring connection for the trailer. Different hitches might present a different way of doing this but the design of the Rivco hitch doesn't offer much for possibilities. So, I figured I could install a "flush mount" type round plug underneath the trunk, next to the side bag and trunk release levers. As I had already installed a trailer wiring isolator kit designed for plug-and-play at the back of the bike, it was just a matter of taping into the wiring coming out of the isolator. Here's pics of my install... Product Used... [ATTACH]68744[/ATTACH] Backing Plate... [ATTACH]68745[/ATTACH] Wire Routing... [ATTACH]68746[/ATTACH] Marking for the holes using the metal template... [ATTACH]68747[/ATTACH] All cutout and ready for the plug... [ATTACH]68748[/ATTACH] The plug from underside of trunk bellypan... [ATTACH]68749[/ATTACH] The inside of the plug waiting for wires... [ATTACH]68750[/ATTACH] All wired up (had to use same color wire coz I didn't have others but that's no problem) [ATTACH]68751[/ATTACH] Finished Product ... male connector yet to wire up. [ATTACH]68752[/ATTACH]
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First I want to thank Freebird for his excelent how to on fixing the class controller board. I had nothing on my class display, most of the time. occasionally I would show 0 psi and then an e4 error then the display would go blank. I tried the solder fix and now when I switch to acc position my display lights up showing front rear manual auto on the left side and 0 psi I can select med hi or low or switch to auto mode momentarily then it goes into an E4 error. after 30 seconds or so everything recycles through the same sequence. I can hear a relay click under the trunk every time the display cycles but no compresor comes on, should I be able to hear the compressor if my pressure is too low IE: 0 psi. Looking at the wiring diagram I see a two connector plug going to the pump as well as a larger multi connector plug just upstream of the plug for the pump. I assume the compressor is under the trunk and these connectors are also in that area. can anybody tell me where the class relay is and the connector asociated with it. Where is the compressor and it's connector are located. and where the large multi connector plug just upstream is located. do I remove just the trunk, or also the seat? Again thanks Freebird, and thanks in advance to anybody who can help with my questions Al -
well it has been a while since i could look at bike i ck the compression today 140 in all but rt rear it has 130 i am getting fire to plug i have cleaned the carb jest 4 or five itmes so i have a valve problem? bumble bee 1999 rsv
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How much power/volts does it take to keep the pre-sets alive on the 2nd gen ? Wanting to remove my main battery and put another type in as I am doing some experimenting for the Deka and Odyssey battery's , so I was thinking of making something up to plug into the AUX plug in the fairing to keep them alive while changing out the battery, any tips ? Thanks, Jeff
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Went on fairly long trip last weekend and notice the bike was sputtering a little and had a little backfire once in a while. Anyway, I pulled the plugs and found that the front left was much darker then the rest as you can see in the photo below. Some history, I replaced the TCI with the new electronic one from the group buy, I run a shot of seafoam with every gallon of gas, I only use Premium fuel. After replacing these plugs today, I installed Skydocs Shim Mod on the sliders and since the Torx screw was not present I have to assume the previous owner was already into these carbs. Diaphragms looked new with no holes at all. I do have a set of new NGK spark plug wires I bought from ebay but i have yet to install them. I know I will need to have the carbs synced soon, but I am having trouble finding a dealer that will work on this vintage in my area. http://i906.photobucket.com/albums/ac264/bobandlou3/IMG_0368.jpg -
See the attached pictures. The wires in question look like Black with red line running the length of the wire and black with intermittant white bands. They go into the wiring harness thru the plug shown on top of the chrome bar. 2nd picture shows black with white bands better. Neither one seem to carry power! I've tried lights, brakes, accessory switches, cruise on/ pushed set, accel, cancel....nothing! The large clear hose you see is for my air horns. Also, the soft rubber plug on the air intake for the cruise pump...is it supposed to go into a hole somewhere? I don't see anywhere for it to mount into. Or is it not a plug? Almost feels like it could be a bellows or something. My cruise isn't working so I'm trying to figure that out also.
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