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Hi I have read several posts about the K&N air filters. I am assuming the only advantage to going to a K&N type filter is that it is reusable and thus in the long run cheaper than replacing the stock filter over the life of the bike. Is there any other advantage? Besides all the hubris and claims, does the K&N actually have an impact on HP all by itself? I find that quite hard to believe so if anyone has any actual hard, factual information they would like to share I would be happy to hear it. Thanks in advance Chris -
Maybe this has been around for a long time? ( the bolt on the bottom of the filter) [ame=http://www.amazon.com/KN-204-Motorcycle-Powersports-Performance-Filter/dp/B000E2CVI8/ref=cm_cr_pr_pb_i]Amazon.com: K&N KN-204 Motorcycle/Powersports High Performance Oil Filter: Automotive@@AMEPARAM@@http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41Q8P2EBL7L.@@AMEPARAM@@41Q8P2EBL7L[/ame] I just think it is a great idea.. this above link might not be the correct filter for your bike.. I just had to show these K&N's Jeff
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Hey All: I just stopped by my local Advance Auto Parts here on Ole Lynchburg, VA and discovered that they had a special on Mobile 1 Syn - 15-50. Been using this since I got my Venture and change every 4000. Deal is: Buy 5 qts. (I know it only hold 3.5 during changes) and you get a Mobil Filter for free. I have been using the Mobile M-108 since I got the Venture. No problems with Oil or Filter since I got the Venture. I DO NOT want to start another Oil discussion. Just letting those who use this producet know about the deal. All in cost is $32.99 plus tax here in Ole Virginia. 5 qts oil at $5.20 each and 1 Filter at $6.99. Saved $23.95 versus retail price. OK. So I save some $$$ now and have 1.5 qts ahead for the next change whick will be a little saving then! Offer is till end of Month here. Not sure about other places... FYI...
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Is there an alternative to the OEM Yamaha gas filter 1FK-24560-10 That can be used in the stock holder? They have less expensive filters at Autozone & advanced Auto (like the ones I buy for my beetle), but does anyone know what application would fit the holder? http://www.bikergarage101.com/media/00/a20791f12fec63c7847cbc_m.JPG Also what size diameter inlets are they 5/16 (ok 8 mm)? -
So you just acquired an old Venture/Venture Royale. Stop right there Mister! Unless you heard it running, and even if you did, there are things you need to know before it travels another 10 yards, unless you are pushing it. The 1983-93 Ventures are among the most reliable and best handling Full Dress Tourers of their era. There are, however, things to know and do if you want to get anywhere close to the legendary 250k miles on it. The Venture, especially the earlier 1200 had very few real issues, but there are two things to check before you proceed. The first is the rear subframe that had a nasty habit of cracking under stress. Check all around the rear suspension, and clean off the oily bits so you can assure yourself this is not a problem with the one you have. The later models do not have this problem. Second gear is weak too on those bikes. If you rode it and it jumped out of second under acceleration, then yours is suffering. You have two choices. You can use the info on this site and in the Manual to rebuild the transmission, or you can change straight from first to third and forget about it. Other than that, any foibles are minor and are associated more with age than anything else. Before you even shell out the hard-earned there are a number of things easily checkable. Good plastic parts are rare and expensive. Repairing cracks in fairings, replacing broken tabs isn’t difficult, but it is time-consuming and should be reflected in the price. The engines are pretty bullet-proof. Like with cars, it is the bodywork that sells these bikes and top dollar should only ever be paid for one with a fairing and cases that are close to perfect. There is lots of pain doing it any other way. If the bike comes with lots of verifiable service history then the mileage is irrelevant. If it doesn’t then you need to do some work before it runs. You can check that the coolant is topped up and clean before you buy. If it is low, or gone, or brown then you have a neglected pile of iron, and bid accordingly. Be aware that coolant leaks can all be fixed, at a price. I know this because mine leaked coolant everywhere, and it cost me to fix it. O-rings at $3 apiece are a minor purchase, until you start counting just how many of them there are! If the cooling system is in good order then the fan will fully control the temperature within the green zone in any weather, at a standstill. Some early bikes had poorly calibrated temp. gauges and they climb nearly to the red, but they should never actually get there. If the gauge reaches the red zone, then a cooling system rebuild will be needed (and some of it should be done anyway). Draining, flushing, cleaning out the radiator and physically cleaning the smaller pipes is a must. Sediment gathers there and flushing won’t shift it. Once that is done, regularly changing the coolant and flushing will keep it clean. Now we can keep it cool, we can think about getting it hot. Before that the oil and filter need changing, and the air filter needs cleaning and/or replacing. K&N make one which can be had for around $50 with careful shopping. You will never need another. If your bike came with one, have a beer to celebrate. When you change the oil for the first time, what comes out will tell you much about the bike’s history. Firstly, about three quarts should come out! It should not be black nor have any metal bits in it. Any “foam” … like mayo, around the filler, filter or anywhere else tells you that water is going where no water should ever go. Waterpump shaft seals, headgaskets and the frail cylinder head connectors can all leak and cause this. About those plastic pipe connectors. There are two of them. They do not come out in one piece and are about $20 each. Each has three of the aforementioned o-rings. Do the math. So the oil should be plentiful, free of slivery streaks and wrist pin clips, and dark but not too black. It should not have gasoline in it either (rare). If it is like that then change the filter and fill it up. Do not overfill it. About halfway up the sight glass is plenty. Anymore and it will be spraying through the breather and all over your beautiful new air filter. Have another beer, you have a good motor. Leaks around the valve covers are common and not a big issue. Oil pouring out is a big issue. The original gaskets were poor but better replacements can be easily sourced. If any of the sixteen bolts holding the covers down is leaking, replace the rubber. If you try to tighten them down to fix a leak you will, over time, simply make it worse. If you are going to replace these gaskets then that is a good time to check the valve clearances. If they are uneven, especially if they are “tight”, then they need adjusting. This is fiddly but not hard and you can borrow the tool from members here. Replace the plugs and, if the plug wires are original, remove the caps and snip ¼” off the wire. Check the cap resistance. It should be 10k Ohms. Trying to fix dodgy caps is fraught with difficulties. I would get new ones. Moving on to the fuel supply. There is a hard to get to filter behind the fuel pump on the lower left of the bike. Change it. Cut the old one open and inspect the contents. A little bit of brown deposit is to be expected, but brown sludge or obvious rust means that the tank is suffering. Most of the tank can be cleaned on the bike there is enough access through the various ports. You did look down the filler for heavy rusting before you brought it home? It takes about five minutes to get the tank off my Triple, and about four hours (if you know what you are doing) to get the tank off the Venture. The petcock is likely to be stiff. Move it to “reserve” and leave it there. Use the gas gauge which is accurate, and carry a small MSR Fuel Bottle in the side case. That will get you a few miles if you run out. Be aware that leaking petcocks are a nightmare. Rebuilding one with new filters and seals will cost around $40. A new one can be had from about $54 up to $75, depending on where you buy. While you are down there, the gas pipe has a very sharp bend and could be quite close to needing replacing. While you were doing all of that charge the battery. If it looks old it probably is. Have it load tested or replace it. So …. We have fresh oil, fresh gas, new plugs and no obvious signs of distress. The coolant is clean and topped off and the battery charged. Turn the key, wait a couple of seconds and hit the starter. Unless it’s cold you will need little or no choke. Leave the throttle completely alone until the engine is running. Run the engine for no more than fifteen seconds then shut it off. Now feel each of the exhaust headers, carefully. They should all be warm. If one or more remains cold then the respective cylinder(s) are not firing. If they are all warm, then start it up again. Go quickly around the bike as it warms up looking for anything amiss. What you do not want to see are oil, fuel or coolant leaks. There will be a bit of smoke as it warms, but not much. There should be none from the exhaust. While we are on the exhaust …. One in poor shape will cost. Just the gaskets in the system add up to a hefty $100 if you need to replace them all. The collector can rot out, and it can rattle. The rattle can be ignored or fixed later. If the joints around the collector leak then it will need fixing. This is one to check before you buy because it’s a good negotiating point. Check out all the electrical components while it is warming up. Lights, flashers, horn etc. With luck they all work and the motor will warm until the fan cuts in. Let it cycle a couple of times before you shut it down. Check again for leaks. Yeah, I know you want to ride it but you can’t yet. Have a beer. We have checked that it will go but we haven’t ensured that it will stop. Tires should be less than ten years old (they have a date code) and free of any cracking. You are pushing 800lbs down the road on them and they need to be good. It goes without saying that they should have sufficient tread. Check the brake pads for thickness and freedom from oil. If the fork seals have blown then fork oil easily makes it onto the calipers. It’s obvious and needs fixing before you ride. Check rotors for thickness and that they are not binding. There should be no signs of brake fluid leaking anywhere, and the fluid should be changed. Check that the steering bearings are not obviously worn. While we are on the subject of hydraulic fluid, change the clutch fluid too J Now you can go for a ride. Just a few careful miles is enough. Check that the handling is not too strange … it should track true and not meander. The suspension should be compliant and not induce nausea causing your lunch to end up all over the instruments. The brakes should stop you in a straight line and the gears shift fairly smoothly. If your ride checks out okay and it doesn’t leak all over the driveway when you get back, then you have the makings of a great motorcycle so … Have a beer to celebrate. There is a whole bunch of stuff not included here. There are some minor fixes that are likely to be needed to things like the starter motor and electrical items. There is lots of information on the site to help. If you fell at any of the hurdles above, then there is an issue that needs resolving. All I tried to do here was go through a routine that would get you up and running safely. Above all, have fun, and lots of beer but not before a ride. Others will chip in to add stuff I missed, and correct mistakes I made but I hope this helps. -
ok, so i got a 42s fuel pump. it comes with a screw-in filter. should i leave this filter on as well as the inline filter i already have?? or should i just go to ACE and get a fitting, and leave my stock filter? thanks.
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I need to replace my air filter and am looking for advice. I find I can get a K&N filter for less than the OEM filter, or an Emgo replacement for less than that. Any bad experience from using K&N as far as flowing too much air for the stock set up? Any bad experience with the emgo? Thanks for any advice. -
Anyone has the Carrier Infinity Electronic Air Filtering system installed. I'm needing to install a new Air Filter. It is the GAPCCCAR2025 that actually filters out bacteria. It is supposed to be the similar filtering technology used in hospitals. My question is that a new one cost around $90.00 and was wondering if someone has figured out a way to clean these filters to get longer life out of them. I'm guessing not but thought I would would just ask.
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Does anyone have a part number for Fuel Filter Options at local auto parts stores? Thanks for any replies.
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hey Wingers... what brand / part number oil filter are ya'll using on your GL1800 ??
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Anyone know of this ????
FuzzyRSTD posted a topic in Royal Star and Royal Star Tour Deluxe Tech Talk
I saw this on the web and was wondering if any of you all have tried this ? Would this be of real use on these engines, or a no/no ? Claims to give better fuel mileage and looks good/good reviews and so on. But I know nothing of a crank case filter on these engines. So any and all information appreciated here. I would like to know more about a crankcase filter ? Thanks, https://www.denniskirk.com/emgo/crankcase-breather-filter-kit.p301754.prd/301754.sku#tabs Fuzzy -
89 VR 27k The PO kept telling me it needed 5 qts at an oil change because he had installed a spin on filter adapter. I noticed that the oil level window was covered with oil. Spec is 5 total, 4 on a change w filter. If he was adding 5 at a change, I guess he was running w 6 in the case. It's as it should be now, but has anyone heard of this happening with any effect of some kind? T
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Fuel pump died yesterday so did a change out today. I went with the Mr. Gasket 42S model and the NAPA 3011 fuel filter. Was a very easy job and cost less than $60 total. WAY better than the $213 price I found on line. Only caveat I can give is to make sure you get the 90 degree, 45 Degree and the nipple and do not use the filter that comes with the pump. There is absolutely no way it will fit in there otherwise. Set it up like this picture I cut the line from the original pump and just connected it to the new wires just to keep it cleaned up. I also cut down the line from the filter to take the bend out and. I did not fasten down the new pump as it all tucked in fine just under the original mounting bracket.
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I had rust issues with my gas tank a couple years back so I took the dive and tore the bike down and did a reseal using the Caswell epoxy treatment. That was a new product for me to use and I wondered about the long term results. I've had some failures before with other products. Every spring I pull the sending unit to inspect the tank and it has always looked fine. It's like a Thermos bottle inside with the epoxy. But I figured the true test would be the fuel filter itself. So while I was changing plugs the other day I changed the fuel filter. So with a bit over 12,000 miles since the last filter change I was happy for find NO sediment in the filter at all. Nada. That was a first. So if anyone is considering treating their fuel tank........ Go for it. The long term benefits are worth it. Not a single carb issue since the treatment. It's worth the time, effort and money to get it over and done with. Mike
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With all the good info I have read on this site I thought i would chime in with a tip. First of all the fuel filter is difficult but not impossible to remove but i didnt want to repeat that madness everytime i needed to change it. First of all to remove the filter i used needle nosed pliers,a flat blade screwdriver, phillips screw driver, 1/4 drive ratchet, a phillips bit (from my cordless drill)and a socket to hold the bit. You will also need to visit NAPA and get 3 zip ties and a NAPA 3011 fuel filter, It costs around 3.50 and it is a paper element so it will stop all the bad stuff and it is encased in clear plastic so you wont be guessing if there is any crud in the filter. I removed the sidecovers and shut off the fuel valve and freed the fuel line from the metal strap that holds it in place under the fuel tank. On the other side where the filter is i used the 1/4 ratchet with the bit and i was able to loosen and remove the screw that holds the filter in place. It wasnt easy but with a little dexterity i was able to fit the ratchet between the swingarm and frame with my right hand and hold the head of the ratchet with my left hand to maintain pressure on the screw till it was off. I removed the screw that holds the filter bracket to the frame and removed the bracket and now the bracket has a home in a drawer. Use the needle nose pliers to squeeze the clamps and slide them back on the hose. Use a flatblade screwdriver to pry the fuel line from the filter on both sides and toss that milky colored filter.The beauty of this whole post is a napa 3011 fuel filter will work and is shorter and easily fits in that tight spot and it will not collapse when you are at full throttle. Just clip off the smaller diameter ends of the filter tube and attatch to the fuel lines. Slide the clamps back over and now you have a nice clear filter but the whole thing kind of flops around. Put a zip tie through the hole where the filter clamp screw was and wrap it around the fuel filter. Now you can use the other zip ties to secure the fuel line. I just tied them to the frame and did it so the fuel filter is nice and level. You can put some electrical tape on the fuel line before you zip tie it if you think the zip tie might rub a hole in the fuel line. Dont forget to hook the line back into the metal strap on the other side. Now you can change the filter next time quicker than the guys changing tires on a racecar at a nascar race. Just use a pair of snips to cut the ties, loosen the clamps,replace the filter and reassemble. Put on 3 ties and you are DONE. This filter is close to the diameter of the stock filter so you purists out there can put it back in the clamp if you want. It is not as long as the stock filter but hey i can replace it once a year for 3.50 versus not replacing the filter this year because the stealer wants 20.00 bucks. Good Luck:sun:
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Just relocated the fuel filter on my 96 Royal Star yesterday after reading several posts on this site. It was an easy job and well worth while for future maintenance. The hardest part of the job was the mounting bolt and nut for the Roll-Over Valve that so many described as a PITA. To resolve this I put the bolt through the hole from the back of the metal bracket and put the nut on the front side with some loc-tite and now have a threaded stud that will stay in place. Just put the plastic holder on the bolt and install a lock washer and another nut. This doesn't have any earth-shattering significance but may be a tip that some might find useful. Happy,safe riding Doug
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I am trying to do a search for posts containing the words "fuel filter". I don't want posts containing only the word "fuel" nor do I want posts containing only the word "filter". I want posts containing both words. How do I do this? And, if you're reading this and know the answer to the following, it would save me searching... What fuel filters (in-line, non stock) can I use instead of replacing the stock one (brand & part #)? I recall reading a while back where someone posted this info inclucing pics ... there was a metal one that I'm particularly interested in. My end result will be to install an in-line filter in the line under the seat and eliminate the stock filter. I've read several posts about this but for the life of me I can't find the ONE POST that lists the specific filter I want.
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OK Got another question, My bike seems to have a viberation of sort under throttle. When just cruising it is smooth but when you accelerate it has that old Harley feel. I don't know how else to explain it other than it isn't smooth. I changed the plugs and put in new air filter over the winter and other than that nothing has been done. It runs smooth when it idles and if you rev it up in nuetral it doesn't miss. I was wondering if maybe you guys think it could be one of the diaphrams or maybe something else. Also mileage has dropped from 41 to about 35 mpg but also remember I more than likely ran it harder trying to figure out what the heck is wrong. Open for suggestionsps, I have never changed the fuel filter. What does one run like when it needs carbs synced? 2000 RSV MM Edition, I bought it in july of 2010 with 18,000 miles on it and I now have 39,000 so I assume it must have set a bunch
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After joining the website I found so much awesome info! I went and purchased a gallon of Rotella T 15 /40 and a good filter recommended here and went and changed my oil and filter today! I also charged the air in my shock up to 40 psi for me and the wife and what a difference. New shock will be in my future soon from the looks of things. Looked at my Air filters and feel great because I always took my bike to the shop before. Not a Mechanic but I want to learn about my bike and how to take care of her. I just wanted to thank you all for all the great info and let you all know I am taking on a few more projects. Thanks again Carl
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I have been using the NAPA Gold filter on the RSTD with Shell Rotella 15-40. Good enough for a 500 HP diesel then it must work well in a bike. Same or better SAE values. What is the general concensus on filter brands? I am switching back to K&N oil filters. Always had good luck with them and the Harleys. Or is NAPA (made by Wix) OK?
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Has anyone heard of or know of the FLO Oil Filters Stainless Steel Reusable Spin On Oil Filter? Re-useable / cleanable metal type oil filter supposedly tons superior to any brass or paper filter available.. $100 or so, it's not cheap but over time might be worth it? But is it worth it? Tech Overview: Constructed of laser cut, medical grade, 304 stainless steel micronic filter cloth In many cases filters provide 200 percent more filter area Stainless filter catches items down to 35 microns, which is about three times better than most good paper or brass filters Unlike glued paper filters, the FLO Oil Filter pleat seam is welded and able to withstand up to 600 degrees Filters maintain consistent flow under all conditions including extreme heat, the presence of water, and cold start ups where paper filters can flow so poorly that they often cause the bypass valve to open and allow unfiltered oil to enter your engine Should be the last filter you ever need; this high tech filter technology is widely used in all types of auto racing including NASCAR, Indy type cars, Formula 1 and in the Aerospace industry where filtration is of the utmost importance
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Are there supposed to be any little holes that look like drill holes in the sides of the air cleaner box? I think I have about 4 or 5 of them. I didn't do it. They are in the filter area. If not, what is a good way to plug them? Duct tape? lol -
--- some pics of the new adventure that has come along. Hey Tom, was that me you were hinting about in midrsv's survey about how many GW riders? I don't think I'll ever get all of the use out of this thing that I wish I could. I also think I'd like it if it would be a lot easier to check/change the air filter! Some engineer had a brain fart when he did this.
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Okay here is the story; Bike has been in the shop for several weeks 38 days to be exact, getting Ma Yamaha to finally fix the over heating issue which as we thought here back in January/Febuary that it was a bad head gasket. Okay they finally get it all back together and the service manager calls me to tell me it is not running good. Says running great on side stand, 1st and 2nd gear runs out fine but 3rd and up it acts as if it is starving for fuel. They are checking the vacuum lines, I told them to check the filter for clogs, and to check for contaminated fuel as it is the 10% ethanol that has been sitting in the tank. I researched here and that seems to be the normal advice, (I had a similar issue on my 03 VTX which was a fuel pump bike also and Turned out it was a clogged fuel filter. Would run fine the for no apparent reason it would shut down. It only did this if the bike was low on fuel. I first changed it over to a gravity feed system but that did not help, changed out the filter and that fixed it. I had put a new filter on and apparently it did not flow as well as the oem.) So can anyone here think of any other reasons that this may be occurring? I had recently sync'd the carbs, and was in the process of fine tuning the pilot's as I had put new pipes on the bike and it was running lean. but I don't think any of that would cause it to shut down like it is doing. Thanks
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I searched the site and found this site directed me to this site: http://www.calsci.com/motorcycleinfo/FilterXRef.html, I spent some time to print out the list so I would have it handy. I went to Napa when they had there 2for1 sale. and bought some for the shelf. I turns out that the above filter list show that the Napa gold was the same as my wife's Subaru. WOW, now I only have to stock 1 for both on the shelf. No the bad news.... The filter fits but will not seat. The threaded plate on the filter is convexed and does not allow the filter gasket to seat causing a great leak. The Walmart filter I took off was concaved and seated. I went back to Napa and mos of their filters are convexed. A word of warning is not to rely on that site for cross referencing oil filter for the 2 gen. Thanks.
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