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Ok looking for suggestions. When I take out my '84 for a ride & then park her (in the garage) I get a gasoline/exhauset smell. I vent the garage but it comes back. Within 4 hours or so it stops. Bike runs fine & I get great mileage MPG. So far I have changed Fuel lines Vent lines Fuel filter all clamps Air filter PCV vent in air filter IS attached petcock is in good shape nothing is leaking, weaping or stuck Originally the bike smelled ALL the time but replacement of all lines fixed that. It's like she is running rich. I have narowed it down to the carbs & the floats are ok but is there anything ELSE on the carbs (washers fittings set screws etc) that anyone can suggest may be the problem? It's not a huge problem but more of an irritation. Any suggestions?
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So I thought I had it licked but back to the drawing board I guess. My 85 is kinda new to me. I bought it awhile ago but until the summer I just sat and waited for my attention. PO needed money and it was to good a deal. I have done alot of work thus far, from draining the gas tank to replacing the fuel lines and filter and ran a can of sea foam thru. After the filter was changed it seemed to run better but today I went for a good 200km ride and its not fixed. I have not opened the carbs yet. I was hoping to avoid that, seafoam has worked on other bikes I have owned in the past.....I believe the bike sat for 2 years ish before I got it. On the road it pulls ok up to 4000rpm then dies....like its running on pilot jets. Check the plugs and they are black? To much fuel? New air filter. The bike starts and idles perfect. Just won't pull on the road, I mean these bike were known to pull.....hell its a vmax motor....ideas as to why it would run aok up to 4000rpm and then die's out....hard to stay at 100kms/hr in 5th?? My Buell would go 100 in 1st/2nd!! HELP! Any, even bad imput is ok with me:) Does someone in Ontario excell at carbs? My budget is kinda tight and it seems to be a big job if the carbs need to come out according to my searches on the site. Thanks a bunch!!
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I just made my second attempt at an oil change on my trike. Attempt #1: Bought an oil filter, oil and and oil filter wrench. The filter wrench when attached to the socket wrench will not fit onto the filter. There simply is not enough room between the oil filter and the radiator housing. Since I had already drained the oil, I went to get another filter wrench that would work with an open or boxed end wrench. The only filter wrenches were made of plastic. PLASTIC!! The OReilly guy assured me it was designed to withstand the pressure of the wrench on the nut. It failed miserably! Since I could not get the oil filter off. I elected to simply replace the oil and try again later. Attempt # 2: I bought more oil and three of my friends assured me that the oil filter can be easily removed with a pair of large channel locks. It probably can, but there is no room between the carport floor and the filter to allow the placement of the channel locks!. Can someone with a trike explain to me how on earth do I get that #%$#&^ oil filter off! Am I supposed to forever take it to a dealer for a $78 oil change?
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I've changed the filter a few time but ya know. When you assemble the spring goes on the shaft between the filter and the magnessium cover to keep the filter tight to the motor right?!! Total brain fart! Pretty sure I'm right:) Tx Brad:fingers-crossed-emo
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I went to the local dealer to get some prices on a few items after I looked in the US online......(Yamahasportsplaza.com) Left Crash Bar - $390.99 CDN - $237.93 US Clutch Plates - $15.99 CDN - $6.95 US Oil Filter - $13.99 CDN - $7.95 US Air Filter - $44.99 CDN - $20.33 US Almost double to support the local CDN dealer......even with freight I'll still be in money. I guess I will have to support the US economy....again! Thought I'd share Keith
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I was looking on e-bay the other night and ran across K&N's for a RSTD. The numbers were different than the RSV and like $30 bucks less. I thought basicly they were the same bike except the fairing-gas tank-speedo deal. Looking @ K&N site they show the YA 1399 for both the TD and Venture. Maybe they had the years mixed up or something? Does anyone else make a filter for the RSV thats worth running? Unipro anyone run them?
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does anyone have a spin on oil filter adapter for a 86 that you would like to sell? or can someone get the measurements from one so i could make one. thanks,bill -
First a little history: I've had my 84 Venture Std for about 1 yr, but before that she sat idle for quite some time. I know she has some rust in the tank, but I'm not yet ready to pull & treat the inside (I'm relying on the filter for now). Over the past year, I've disassembled/cleaned the petcock and replaced the fuel filter (which was suprisingly clean). I've also had the carbs off and cleaned the bowls, jets, etc. She'd been running just fine until... Now on with the current situation: My buddy & I recently went on a 1400 mile trip to Michigan's UP:biker:, and I put a bit of Seafoam in the tank at each fillup (per some recommendations here). On the way back I began to notice that the bike had more oil than when I last checked . I babied it, got home, drained the oil and it smelled like gas. It appears that 2 of the carb float levels are too high, 1 carb on each side. The filter still looks good, so I'm theorizing that some "gunk" has been loosened up from inside the fuel pump and migrated to the float needles/seats. Perhaps after shutdown, the excess fuel is draining thru the carbs and down into the oil. Has anyone disassembled their 1st Gen fuel pump, cleaned it, and managed to get it back together ? Anyone ever added another fuel filter, between the pump and the carbs? Any ideas on cleaning the mesh screen filters at the needle/seat assembly? Honestly, I'm thinking about just changing the oil, adding a whole can of Seafoam to the next tank of gas and seeing if that breaks up the debris that might be stuck in the needle/seat/screens. Any thoughts? Thanks all! BTW, M-22 west of Traverse City & M-58 west of M-77 are great roads! But stay on the roads...the sabertooth black flies of the shore & beaches along Lake Superior are really something else . -
I am trying to change the fuel filter on my 1988 Venture and I can't locate it. Does anyone know where it is located?
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Its funny. I go around to Napa, Autozone, and O'Rieley AutoParts... and no one has the K&N HP1005... 1004 and 1006, but NOT 1005, SPECIAL ORDER. Lovely, none the less Amazon has come thru, for 11.92, its coming this Saturday (Prime shipping) so this Saturday, I'll be doing a oil change, oil filter swap, spark plug swap, and maybe if I man up. A check of my diaphragms; I'll go with just... doing the on bike carb cleaner trick. Its mostly a lot of hope, the sliders, and diaphragms, I can't do anything with if they're busted, and I'm guessing the sliders are fine--the bike starts, and go its whole tank just fine--but the sliders are injured... and noticable scaring was evident on them when we had the carbs off for checkage during the whole three month snafu, and actually don't slide as GRACEFULLY as they should... so new sliders, new diaphragms hopefully next month, or the month after. Though I will point out, the diaphragms were actually FINE then. So hmmm. Though anyone got any info if I could use OTHER slides than the ones that come with the diaphragms on Ebay (VMAX slides)? some sliders are shiny metal........ So thats the plan..... now all I need to do is fine a nice size rubbermaid bowl for top ramen with sliced sausage this saturday while I work. but none the less... WHY IS THE K&N HP1005 A SPECIAL ORDER?!?!?!?!?! Oooh, should I stick with the NGK spark plugs, the DPR8EA-9 NGK is what I got in my memopad for spark plugs (and X24EPR-U9?) Oil if anyone asks, was thinking of 15w40, 50/50 blend from our local motorcycle dealer. --And if anyone wonders, K&N HP1005 is the screw on oil filter that fits on the Rivco Screw on Oil Filter Adapter. Took me a hour to find that... I think I use a jump from a NAPA number... or was it FRAM?
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Fighting another that don't want to go. I don't change this thing with every filter but was this time and can't get it to lay down in grove as it should. Not the 1st time!! What do the rest of you stick them on there with. Don't really want to see oil on my new floor. I leave enough spots on Skid's.
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I stoped and tryed to get some gas at a local station and it was pumping slow I got about 3/4 of a tank and went in to pay and said must be something wrong with your pump and she says oh I will tell the owner when he gets here. I get about 12 miles on the tank of fule and I am wondering if I will even get home. So to work I go on the cycle clean conections all that I can find move the TCI as long as I am at it. Still doent run very well take it for a ride it starts to run better but not like it did. Telling a friend of mine and he says sound like fule filter I just put a new one in a couple of days before I got the gas. So yesterday after checking plugs wires and everything else I could think of I decided to check the fule filter and here it is full of crud brown nasty stuff. And guess where it came from, found out that they let their tanks run empty and thats why it was puming so slow. So another new filter and its runing better but not the same as it was so I am sure that the screen on the petcock is coverd with this stuff and I hope that the tank wont have to be flushed out. Still waiting to talk with the owner I guess that he has been avoiding some other upset people.
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:confused24:I have tried and can't get the fileter off my wing. All my filter wrencehs ate to big. What are you other folks using??? thanks
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I was all packed up, helmet on and ready to go. Planned on an all day ride up to Ottawa for a new car-topper for the trailer, then down to Cornwall to pick up a set of carbs on the rack I had bought from Thirdbike. I kissed my wife goodbye....turned the key and ....NOTHING! I was up late last night playing with the running lights and I guess I killed the battery. "no problem" I thought, Just boost it off the car and I'll be on my way....a minor delay. Not so! It would not run. I could get it to fire, but it would rev up and die. It wouldn't stay running! Now I know my battery and charging system is OK because I NEVER have issues under normal operating. I suspected fuel delivery... I opened the one screw all the way out thinking it was the drain ...(it was the one that usually is 2 1/2 turns out) but no gas came out. I opened up one carb and removed the slider and diaphram to check and as I tried to start it I couldn't see any fuel misting in there or any other indication it was getting fuel. (Is that even a way to tell?) I checked the fuel filter. (What a pain to get to!) Sure enough when I blew it out I THINK a slug of something came out. I felt something bounce off my hand but it might even have just been a drop of gas. ( As gas was pouring out of the bike I realized I should have turned off the fuel supply first!!!) I charged up the battery while I was working and once I got it all back together I went for a ride for over an hour and it ran just fine. So now I don't know for sure if it was the fuel filter, or if the dead battery could have prevented it from running somehow. I had it connected to the car battery (car not running) so I have to believe it was the filter was plugged. Any thoughts?
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Friend of mine just stop by the house.... said he went to 3 of the 4 Walmart's here in Amarillo to get a super tech filter for his Goldwing. He could not find any of the filters. Ask at the counter and was told they do not carry them any more.
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Maybe this has been around for a long time? ( the bolt on the bottom of the filter) [ame=http://www.amazon.com/KN-204-Motorcycle-Powersports-Performance-Filter/dp/B000E2CVI8/ref=cm_cr_pr_pb_i]Amazon.com: K&N KN-204 Motorcycle/Powersports High Performance Oil Filter: Automotive@@AMEPARAM@@http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41Q8P2EBL7L.@@AMEPARAM@@41Q8P2EBL7L[/ame] I just think it is a great idea.. this above link might not be the correct filter for your bike.. I just had to show these K&N's Jeff
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Hey All: I just stopped by my local Advance Auto Parts here on Ole Lynchburg, VA and discovered that they had a special on Mobile 1 Syn - 15-50. Been using this since I got my Venture and change every 4000. Deal is: Buy 5 qts. (I know it only hold 3.5 during changes) and you get a Mobil Filter for free. I have been using the Mobile M-108 since I got the Venture. No problems with Oil or Filter since I got the Venture. I DO NOT want to start another Oil discussion. Just letting those who use this producet know about the deal. All in cost is $32.99 plus tax here in Ole Virginia. 5 qts oil at $5.20 each and 1 Filter at $6.99. Saved $23.95 versus retail price. OK. So I save some $$$ now and have 1.5 qts ahead for the next change whick will be a little saving then! Offer is till end of Month here. Not sure about other places... FYI...
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Is there an alternative to the OEM Yamaha gas filter 1FK-24560-10 That can be used in the stock holder? They have less expensive filters at Autozone & advanced Auto (like the ones I buy for my beetle), but does anyone know what application would fit the holder? http://www.bikergarage101.com/media/00/a20791f12fec63c7847cbc_m.JPG Also what size diameter inlets are they 5/16 (ok 8 mm)? -
ok, so i got a 42s fuel pump. it comes with a screw-in filter. should i leave this filter on as well as the inline filter i already have?? or should i just go to ACE and get a fitting, and leave my stock filter? thanks.
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Trying to find the part number for a alternate fuel filter. Not interested in relocating it just one that will fit for less than 21 bucks plus tax. Suppose to be in the library but my searches keep coming up blank.
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So you just acquired an old Venture/Venture Royale. Stop right there Mister! Unless you heard it running, and even if you did, there are things you need to know before it travels another 10 yards, unless you are pushing it. The 1983-93 Ventures are among the most reliable and best handling Full Dress Tourers of their era. There are, however, things to know and do if you want to get anywhere close to the legendary 250k miles on it. The Venture, especially the earlier 1200 had very few real issues, but there are two things to check before you proceed. The first is the rear subframe that had a nasty habit of cracking under stress. Check all around the rear suspension, and clean off the oily bits so you can assure yourself this is not a problem with the one you have. The later models do not have this problem. Second gear is weak too on those bikes. If you rode it and it jumped out of second under acceleration, then yours is suffering. You have two choices. You can use the info on this site and in the Manual to rebuild the transmission, or you can change straight from first to third and forget about it. Other than that, any foibles are minor and are associated more with age than anything else. Before you even shell out the hard-earned there are a number of things easily checkable. Good plastic parts are rare and expensive. Repairing cracks in fairings, replacing broken tabs isn’t difficult, but it is time-consuming and should be reflected in the price. The engines are pretty bullet-proof. Like with cars, it is the bodywork that sells these bikes and top dollar should only ever be paid for one with a fairing and cases that are close to perfect. There is lots of pain doing it any other way. If the bike comes with lots of verifiable service history then the mileage is irrelevant. If it doesn’t then you need to do some work before it runs. You can check that the coolant is topped up and clean before you buy. If it is low, or gone, or brown then you have a neglected pile of iron, and bid accordingly. Be aware that coolant leaks can all be fixed, at a price. I know this because mine leaked coolant everywhere, and it cost me to fix it. O-rings at $3 apiece are a minor purchase, until you start counting just how many of them there are! If the cooling system is in good order then the fan will fully control the temperature within the green zone in any weather, at a standstill. Some early bikes had poorly calibrated temp. gauges and they climb nearly to the red, but they should never actually get there. If the gauge reaches the red zone, then a cooling system rebuild will be needed (and some of it should be done anyway). Draining, flushing, cleaning out the radiator and physically cleaning the smaller pipes is a must. Sediment gathers there and flushing won’t shift it. Once that is done, regularly changing the coolant and flushing will keep it clean. Now we can keep it cool, we can think about getting it hot. Before that the oil and filter need changing, and the air filter needs cleaning and/or replacing. K&N make one which can be had for around $50 with careful shopping. You will never need another. If your bike came with one, have a beer to celebrate. When you change the oil for the first time, what comes out will tell you much about the bike’s history. Firstly, about three quarts should come out! It should not be black nor have any metal bits in it. Any “foam” … like mayo, around the filler, filter or anywhere else tells you that water is going where no water should ever go. Waterpump shaft seals, headgaskets and the frail cylinder head connectors can all leak and cause this. About those plastic pipe connectors. There are two of them. They do not come out in one piece and are about $20 each. Each has three of the aforementioned o-rings. Do the math. So the oil should be plentiful, free of slivery streaks and wrist pin clips, and dark but not too black. It should not have gasoline in it either (rare). If it is like that then change the filter and fill it up. Do not overfill it. About halfway up the sight glass is plenty. Anymore and it will be spraying through the breather and all over your beautiful new air filter. Have another beer, you have a good motor. Leaks around the valve covers are common and not a big issue. Oil pouring out is a big issue. The original gaskets were poor but better replacements can be easily sourced. If any of the sixteen bolts holding the covers down is leaking, replace the rubber. If you try to tighten them down to fix a leak you will, over time, simply make it worse. If you are going to replace these gaskets then that is a good time to check the valve clearances. If they are uneven, especially if they are “tight”, then they need adjusting. This is fiddly but not hard and you can borrow the tool from members here. Replace the plugs and, if the plug wires are original, remove the caps and snip ¼” off the wire. Check the cap resistance. It should be 10k Ohms. Trying to fix dodgy caps is fraught with difficulties. I would get new ones. Moving on to the fuel supply. There is a hard to get to filter behind the fuel pump on the lower left of the bike. Change it. Cut the old one open and inspect the contents. A little bit of brown deposit is to be expected, but brown sludge or obvious rust means that the tank is suffering. Most of the tank can be cleaned on the bike there is enough access through the various ports. You did look down the filler for heavy rusting before you brought it home? It takes about five minutes to get the tank off my Triple, and about four hours (if you know what you are doing) to get the tank off the Venture. The petcock is likely to be stiff. Move it to “reserve” and leave it there. Use the gas gauge which is accurate, and carry a small MSR Fuel Bottle in the side case. That will get you a few miles if you run out. Be aware that leaking petcocks are a nightmare. Rebuilding one with new filters and seals will cost around $40. A new one can be had from about $54 up to $75, depending on where you buy. While you are down there, the gas pipe has a very sharp bend and could be quite close to needing replacing. While you were doing all of that charge the battery. If it looks old it probably is. Have it load tested or replace it. So …. We have fresh oil, fresh gas, new plugs and no obvious signs of distress. The coolant is clean and topped off and the battery charged. Turn the key, wait a couple of seconds and hit the starter. Unless it’s cold you will need little or no choke. Leave the throttle completely alone until the engine is running. Run the engine for no more than fifteen seconds then shut it off. Now feel each of the exhaust headers, carefully. They should all be warm. If one or more remains cold then the respective cylinder(s) are not firing. If they are all warm, then start it up again. Go quickly around the bike as it warms up looking for anything amiss. What you do not want to see are oil, fuel or coolant leaks. There will be a bit of smoke as it warms, but not much. There should be none from the exhaust. While we are on the exhaust …. One in poor shape will cost. Just the gaskets in the system add up to a hefty $100 if you need to replace them all. The collector can rot out, and it can rattle. The rattle can be ignored or fixed later. If the joints around the collector leak then it will need fixing. This is one to check before you buy because it’s a good negotiating point. Check out all the electrical components while it is warming up. Lights, flashers, horn etc. With luck they all work and the motor will warm until the fan cuts in. Let it cycle a couple of times before you shut it down. Check again for leaks. Yeah, I know you want to ride it but you can’t yet. Have a beer. We have checked that it will go but we haven’t ensured that it will stop. Tires should be less than ten years old (they have a date code) and free of any cracking. You are pushing 800lbs down the road on them and they need to be good. It goes without saying that they should have sufficient tread. Check the brake pads for thickness and freedom from oil. If the fork seals have blown then fork oil easily makes it onto the calipers. It’s obvious and needs fixing before you ride. Check rotors for thickness and that they are not binding. There should be no signs of brake fluid leaking anywhere, and the fluid should be changed. Check that the steering bearings are not obviously worn. While we are on the subject of hydraulic fluid, change the clutch fluid too J Now you can go for a ride. Just a few careful miles is enough. Check that the handling is not too strange … it should track true and not meander. The suspension should be compliant and not induce nausea causing your lunch to end up all over the instruments. The brakes should stop you in a straight line and the gears shift fairly smoothly. If your ride checks out okay and it doesn’t leak all over the driveway when you get back, then you have the makings of a great motorcycle so … Have a beer to celebrate. There is a whole bunch of stuff not included here. There are some minor fixes that are likely to be needed to things like the starter motor and electrical items. There is lots of information on the site to help. If you fell at any of the hurdles above, then there is an issue that needs resolving. All I tried to do here was go through a routine that would get you up and running safely. Above all, have fun, and lots of beer but not before a ride. Others will chip in to add stuff I missed, and correct mistakes I made but I hope this helps. -
looks interesting. was wondering if anyone tried it. http://www.ebay.com/itm/120813345975?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649.
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I need to replace my air filter and am looking for advice. I find I can get a K&N filter for less than the OEM filter, or an Emgo replacement for less than that. Any bad experience from using K&N as far as flowing too much air for the stock set up? Any bad experience with the emgo? Thanks for any advice. -
Anyone has the Carrier Infinity Electronic Air Filtering system installed. I'm needing to install a new Air Filter. It is the GAPCCCAR2025 that actually filters out bacteria. It is supposed to be the similar filtering technology used in hospitals. My question is that a new one cost around $90.00 and was wondering if someone has figured out a way to clean these filters to get longer life out of them. I'm guessing not but thought I would would just ask.
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Does anyone have a part number for Fuel Filter Options at local auto parts stores? Thanks for any replies.
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