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Showing results for tags 'brake'.
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Just got my ironbraid.com leather covered chrome plated levers installed today. They turned out great! I have the two toned 2009 Venture and so I had the leather braids done in cream and black...turned out really well. I also cleaned and lubed the clutch and brake while I had them off. Here are a couple of pictures, sorry about the quality, I used my iPhone (didn't want to break out the camera). By the way...what does the adjustment screw on the brake adjust? the brake light?
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I installed Speed Bleeders ™ on the clutch and on all brake bleeding points yesterday (perhaps I shouldn't have chosen Friday the Thirteenth) and flushed all clutch and brake fluids with new fresh DOT4. Everything was going swell until I replaced the last bleed valve on the rear caliper and could not get any fluid to come out of the bleeder when I attempted to bleed the rear brake line. I replaced the Speed Bleeder with the OEM and attempted to bleed as normal and again no fluid would emit. I removed the bleeder and depressed the brake foot pedal, but still no fluid at rear caliper. I can see that there is fluid in the open port where the bleeder fits, but none comes out when I depress the pedal. I have a very firm pedal and the left front brake works. I tried rebleeding the entire system and did not encounter any air at the front or at the metering bleeder near the steering head. I removed the plastic elbow with the reservoir fill hose attached to it and drained the reservoir. I examined the two ports inside the master cylinder that are visible when the elbow is removed and noted that the orifices were open as I depressed the pedal. I reinstalled the elbow, refilled the reservoir with fresh fluid and rebled the front left, the steering head metering bleed valve and attempted to bleed the rear once again without success. Same results, no fluid and no pressure at the pistons. Applying the pedal does not apply the brakes on the rear wheel but the front left brake works fine. It seems to me that the proportioning valve mounted on the master cylinder is stuck, perhaps, but I don't know enough about the internal plumbing of the master cylinder/proportioning valve to know if this is likely. It is not an easy task to remove the master cylinder and or the proportioning valve, so I am asking for guidance towards some other cause for me to have no pressure at the rear caliper. The last time I rode the bike a couple weeks ago, the brakes seemed to work fine, even two up. I only encountered a problem after I installed the Speed Bleeders™. (Thanks to your suggestion, Condor!) -
Anyone have any experiences with ebay item 280650803116. $1.20 for a set of 2 and shipping $2.00. 2 24 LED 1157 Car Tail Brake Rear White Light Bulb Lamp 2 24 LED 1157 Car Tail Brake Rear White Light Bulb Lamp 2 24 LED 1157 Car Tail Brake Rear White Light Bulb Lamp
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Hi, After caliper and brake rebuild, I am trying in vain to bleed the brakes on my 84. After 3 hours of using a vacuum pump yielding little success with quite a bit of air is out, the rear is still very spongy and cannot seem to get anymore air out..I have read a lot about the lack of a bleeder on the early models and am wondering if it is possible to get to the connection without taking plastic off???? I've bled the brakes before, but never a complete re-do from zero...Even having a terrible time with the front right brake... ughhhh.this is very frustrating..I want to ride. What is the correct order in bleeding considering the anti dives...??? Is it left anti-dive ,then left front caliper. then rear ....over and over again???? I;ve read a lot on this here, but still am struggling this time Thanks Clay -
Good evening. I replaced my brake pads, flushed the brake system, flushed and filled the rear diff, and went to flush my clutch and cant find the bleeder. Can anyone point me in the general location? I have a 2005 royal star AKA "the beast" New tires going on this week!!! Whoo whoo I cant wait for the weather to break in Michigan!!!
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just pull my trailer out of storage "not heated" and now the 3bulb led lights I added last year are extremely dim. i added these little lights to just the brake light so they act like an extra brake light. worked great all last year and now nutt'n. I checked the connections to the original led brake light wire and it looks good. these were $8.00 truck stop specials so my ?? is can they just go capute. its odd they both took a dump but the origianal brake lights work just fine. any ideas???
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Can someone tell me why yamaha made clutch and brake levers to fit a gorilla hand? The reach on these levers is rediculously far with no adjustment! And my hands are not small, I'm 6'-0", 190#. Does anyone else agree? Does anyone have a solution? -
I am sure many of you have seen the filler panels that Harleys have between the rear fender and the saddle bags, most of the time they have tail lights, brake lights and of turn signals built in. Has anyone tried to do this on a Venture? I am looking at some leds ideas, but most of what I have found are single illumination (all leds on or off at the same time) strips or bars, nothing that you could use as both running and brake or running and turn signals. Just like to get a little more light back there to go along with my signal dymaics LED bar and my LED tail light. Thanks for any ideas. -
need yellow reflector by front brake caliper just need one. If anyone has one let me know thanks
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Does anyone have the Parts # for the EBC REAR brake pads which will fit a 2nd Gen? Thanks in advance.....Boomer
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I am thinking of adding the Kuryakyn RTB module to my 2005 RSTD.... I do not have an owners manual and the one i downloaded doesn't appear to have the wire colors for the brake and turn signals on the rear... Does anyone know where I can find this information?? Thanks, Robert C. -
Well I have a little problem. I was bleeding out the front brakes and got one side to bleed out nice then moved to the other side. Well I cannot get it to bleed out. I get nothing from it when I squeeze the lever. Is there an easy way to fix this or should I replace the line. I will NOT ride without a front brake, four wheel boneheads make that WAY to dangerous. Shaun
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Looking for some info re drum brakes.....1.do I need to go to an auto brake master or will a 90VR rear brake master do the job? I have de-linked the fronts from the rear. 2.what type of tires would you recommend for rear wheels? Thanks :canada:
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on 83. Did not notice when last was working (maybe last year), but just finished fuse upgrade and added running/fog light and stebil horn. Running tail light works. Also added 4 relays 1. headlight and acc bypass ignition key switch(at fuse panel){to limit load on key switch} 2. fog light 3. horn 4. spare, not used at this time checked foot brake switch and have 12v on1 side, and 12v on other side when either foot or handle brake applied. 0v when switch normal. CMS no indication of problem. pulled and replaced both brake bulbs, no change removed truck and got to rear 3 wire connector at brake light 12v on blue(running) 12v on yellow(brake) when brake applied//??4v when brake off?? good ground on black temp jumpered power to yellow side of connector and bulbs worked(sockets ok) semi perm installed jumper from rear brake switch output to yellow at brake housing now all works ok, but have CMS fault(tail lts) only when brake applied Thinking lack of current(amps) to drive brake lights due to corrosion or partial open even though I have 12v at brake housing. Unsure why I have 4v when brake off(corrosion )? Probably need to pull seat (if I can remember how) and check underseat harness, but I am suspecting problem with the CMS(such a pain to pull dash) any other ideas?
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I have had the LED tail lights (from CruiserCustomizing.com)sitting on my desk for several months. I looked at doing the install myself, but chickened out, as I am not the most mechanically minded rider on the road. Then I met Rick through this site. He lives 10 minutes from me. We had a coffee, and he offered to help with the install. So... today we did it. Four and a half hours, including going out for a replacement bulb, as I dropped one, only to find that they do not bounce on concrete. The running lights and signal lights look great, but there is no change when the brake is applied. I can live with that. I will probably get an LED Brake light one day in the future. HUGE thanks to Rick for the use of is tools, garage, lift, and most of all, his knowledge and confidence in tackling this job.
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anyone out there ever buy the emgo brake kit listed on ebay?? need new brakes and want to but the kit for all 3 calipers and not spend a fortune. thanx brake kit is around $$60.00
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Replaced front brake pads on my 97 RSTD about a month ago and now my right rotor has enough warp to cause bad brake pulsing. Torqued according to specs .Kinda strange.. Can anyone give me a good place to shop for rotors? If anyone has one for sale here I would consider buying it from ya. Thanks Steve
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I want to install a wing on my trunk. Does any one know where I can get one. I'm looking for one that has the brake light in it. I need it for a 2nd gen. Thanks, Ken:fingers-crossed-emo
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Had a signal dynamics back off brake light flasher install since last august, now it won't flash, wired to the led bar, removed it wired it into the stock brake light, no flash, wired it into both, no flash, took it up to the "factory" here in FL, 10 miles away, they were VERY helpful, talked to the owner/engineer, he tested it and gave it back, rewired it including a resistor he provided, no flash, took it back, they tested it on several heavy and light load light, worked perfectly, gave it back, "incompatable maybe" he said...can't seem to make it work on my bike, he did give me a 10 cent tour of their place, very cool, he said that could build all their products over seas but they don't to keep jobs over here, if you are looking for cool products, check them out, "signal dynamics"....any ideas what to do now?
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Just thought I would share this experience with you. Having stripped my machine down and doing a complete service on it before the Spring I tried to remove the slide pins from the front brake to strip the calipers down and clean them and change the pads whilst I was at it. At first I carefully tried to remove the offending pins. Needless to say they would not come loose and the allen key just stripped the head even after tapping it to try to loosen any corrosion. I soaked them for a few days in release oil on the caliper. I ordered four new ones but was amazed to find the part number had been changed from 4TT-25914-00-00 to 5JU-259141-00-00. (I'll explain later). The lower one on each side of the caliper came out no problem by inserting a torque bit no. CR-MV 45 into the rounded allen hole after a little bit of tapping with a hammer. I did have visions at one stage of having to drill them all the way out. The upper of the two pins were real pigs I ended up drilling through the center of the head with first a 4.5mm drill, followed by a 7mm drill and lastly a 9mm drill go as deep as the thread so you can get the other torque bit in comfortably, this was a CR-MV 10 has more splines on it and gets a good grip. They came out easily with a ratchet and attachment. Be aware that the caliper pistons retract as you work on the brake so I periodically operated the brake lever to put them back into position. I could find no signs of corrosion on any of the four pins, they were clean and looked almost new. The part has changed from an allen bolt to a 12mm socket head in line with all newer models, I did comment at the time I ordered the new parts that if I knew these newer type pins would fit I would have had some of them fitted. It turned out that they did fit and the reason for the part number change was obvious. I applied copious amounts of copper slip to the pins on re-assembly and torqued them to the recommended 25nm. Did Yamaha know something I did not, before I started this? Key to photographs. 1. Slide pins. 2. Left to right. Lower right caliper. Lower left caliper. Upper right caliper. Upper left caliper 3. Two torque bits. 4. Torque bit fully home in 9mm hole. 5. The new slide pin, with copious amounts of copper slip. 6. Nearly in one piece again. Neil. (Old Miner).
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Just thought I would share this experience with you. Having stripped my machine down and doing a complete service on it before the Spring I tried to remove the slide pins from the front brake to strip the calipers down and clean them and change the pads whilst I was at it. At first I carefully tried to remove the offending pins. Needless to say they would not come loose and the allen key just stripped the head even after tapping it to try to loosen any corrosion. I soaked them for a few days in release oil on the caliper. I ordered four new ones but was amazed to find the part number had been changed from 4TT-25914-00-00 to 5JU-259141-00-00. (I'll explain later). The lower one on each side of the caliper came out no problem by inserting a torque bit no. CR-MV 45 into the rounded allen hole after a little bit of tapping with a hammer. I did have visions at one stage of having to drill them all the way out. The upper of the two pins were real pigs I ended up drilling through the center of the head with first a 4.5mm drill, followed by a 7mm drill and lastly a 9mm drill go as deep as the thread so you can get the other torque bit in comfortably, this was a CR-MV 10 has more splines on it and gets a good grip. They came out easily with a ratchet and attachment. Be aware that the caliper pistons retract as you work on the brake so I periodically operated the brake lever to put them back into position. I could find no signs of corrosion on any of the four pins, they were clean and looked almost new. The part has changed from an allen bolt to a 12mm socket head in line with all newer models, I did comment at the time I ordered the new parts that if I knew these newer type pins would fit I would have had some of them fitted. It turned out that they did fit and the reason for the part number change was obvious. I applied copious amounts of copper slip to the pins on re-assembly and torqued them to the recommended 25nm. Did Yamaha know something I did not, before I started this? Key to photographs. 1. Slide pins. 2. Left to right. Lower right caliper. Lower left caliper. Upper right caliper. Upper left caliper 3. Two torque bits. 4. Torque bit fully home in 9mm hole. 5. The new slide pin, with copious amounts of copper slip. Neil. (Old Miner).
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I bought a 2000 RSV last year. Currently have 35,000. Little overwhelmed from going through the maint book on what I am "supposed" to do. Planning on changing oil, filer, final gear oil, spark plugs, brake pads and I need a near tire so I will lube up the spline also and fuel filter. Carb tune was done last year (thanks Squidley) but I guess that should be done again if I have the valves adjusted which I am assuming hasn't ever happened. Based on records, brake pads, brake fluid, coolant and final drive oil was changed at 15,000. Quite overwhelmed with the other things the book tells me to do where I am completely clueless including the following. Engine Oil Pressure Test Repacking Swing are bearings Repack wheel bearings Valve clearance Fork oil change replace brake hoses brake fluid and cluth fluid (just confused on this one. If it ain't broke why do I fix it?) Most important thing to me is safety. The next most important is reliability and the last thing is the bikes longevity. What really needs to be done and what doesn't on a 10 year old 35,000 RSV? Thanks, Bob -
Came across this in a magazine recently and was wondering if anyone had checked into it or has tried them. If it functions as described, I might try one on the rear brake of my RSV. http://www.eglidegoodies.com/id254.html
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After an hour of fiddling with installing a speedbleeder to assist in replacing the fluid in my clutch reservoir, I reinstalled the old bleed valve and reversed bled the clutch lines (thanks Condor). Now, when I sqeeze the clutch lever, I don;t get any "pressure" until the lever is approx 1/4" from the grip. Essentially, the clutch lever travels almost all the way to the grip before I feel any fluid pressure. I took the cover off to have a look...I can see the plunger moving and I can see the fluid "swell" over the small hole. Having read on this forum that some folks have squirted themselves with brake fluid by rapidly activating the clutch lever. I took the appropriate precautions to prevent brake fluid spraying every where...but to my dismay...no spray...just a "swell" in the reservoir. It just doesn;t seem like I have any clutch. I can squeeze the clutch, and put it into first gear, but after releasing the lever about an 1/8 of an inch, the bike begins to move. What have I missed?
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This Intregrated Brake is new to me. So when I hit the foot brake, one front rotor and the rear rotor are activated. Are the fluid pressure 50/50 front rear or 60/40 or ##/##? When I hit the front brake only with the right hand brake then are both front rotors activiated or just one front rotor? I'm from the old school riding 27 years ago and so I'm still not too comfortable when needing to brake in a turn and say it is wet out. The whole idea of Intregrated Braking seems strange to me. And not having ridden much so far, would welcome any thoughts of comfort. Like does one brake differently in different situations with intregrated brakes vs the old fashion brake system. Or do I brake as if I have the old system and just forget that the brakes are intregrated, and let the new technology do its stuff. As for now I ride kind of conservatively until I get a better understanding, more experience and a better feel for the braking.
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