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Ok finnaly found a bit of chrome for my bike anyone use these grips on a first gen? any feedback on them i'm thinking about bidding on em. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Yamaha-Venture-XVZ-Buffalo-Grips-7-8-new_W0QQitemZ320134448283QQihZ011QQcategoryZ35580QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
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I am seriuosly considering buy a new 05 RSTD. What scares me is what I have been reading about a whining and a chirping noise that some say is really loud and aggrevating. Is this common on all RSTD bikes? I know I probably wouldn't like to hear these noises cruising at highway speeds.Some say the noise problem can be fixed, some say it will never go away. I just don't want to have to get rid of the bike soon after I buy it. I like everything else about the bike. I know all new bikes have their problems. But is this a serious enough problem to keep somebody from buying this bike? Your honest comments will be appreciated.
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...and what a huge disappointment I suffered. The bike was picked up at noon, and the owner of this cycle business did take time to walk me out to the bike, and go over some basic things about it (mainly its operational procedures). He opened the trunks, and there - in the top one - laid a full gallon of antifreeze. We both did somewhat of a double-take, on this, and I immediately began to have some concerned thoughts. Why was that antifreeze in there? Was it something that had no bearing on a continuing problematic condition with the bike's cooling system, and just absentmindedly left? Or, was it directly related to his experiencing a defective condition, which required very frequent fillings? (These are the things which ran through my mind). ...................................................................................................... Then he proceeded to start it for me, and it was hard starting. He fiddled around with the choke, a few times, then got it to start. The bike coughed, for a little, and then began straighten up some. I finally got it to myself, and headed home. I found the bike to be sluggish, and then it began to backfire. The more throttle I gave it, the more frequent the backfiring became. When I arrived home I parked the bike, as I had errands to run which required my truck. A few hours later, I returned home, and decided to take the bike out on the expressway. It didn't really have the 'pick-up' that I remembered my former friend's VR having, and I thought that (maybe) it might have been sitting for a good while, and just needed some 'pushing'. That is when the backfiring became REALLY bad. I mean, it sounded as if someone was shooting a shotgun right behind my head (I kid you not). Then the bike began to lose power. Now (mind you) I am still on the expressway - with the throttle WIDE OPEN, and my speed began decreasing on its own. At that point, I opted for the nearest exit, and the bike shut off as I came to the off-ramp's traffic signal. I had a bear of a time restarting it (which I had to do numerous times), and - when it would restart, the engine could be heard in a very tired, lazy & sluggish laboring. It was all I could do to get it home, and more than a small portion of that distance was within coasting (because it KEPT shutting off). ....................................................................................................... So now, I feel like a fool. Do you remember the cartoons where the character, in the aftermath of a foolish act, would stand before this wooden contraption with a rope hanging from the front - and a boot attached to the back of two sticked ends? Well if you do, you also remember that character pulling the rope, which would cause the boot to kick him square in the butt. If I had that device I would be on it RIGHT NOW . Seriously though, I hope that things will work out with the bike. The dealership's service department DID promptly send a truck out to pick the bike up. But being a much older bike, I am sure that they will NOT lean towards doing the best job that they can to correct whatever the issue(s) is/are - but will, more than likely, take the 'band-aid' approach - giving just enough satisfaction to last for not much longer than the 30 day warranty period. When I do get it back, I am really considering taking it to another cycle shop, for the purpose of having an in-depth diagnostic test procedure done on it. I don't know what that might set me back, monetarily speaking, but it may be worth whatever the cost. Let me know what you think.
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After reading the great article on how to fix the "H" pipe baffle rattle,I'm wondering if any one has tried this without removing it from the bike???? The only down side that I see is trying to weld it back together while laying on your back. Any thoughts??????????
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Well i must say thanks to all for the tips and to this site for all the good info. I have saved a chunk of money by not having to go to the stealer for repairs besides "they dont work on old bikes like mine". So i have changed all the fluids and Im going to do some minor repairs on the plastic, install new seals and progressive springs just as soon as they arrive next week. With the info on this site it should be a piece of cake. After that me and some of the guys are riding to the Ozarks for a little fun. Everybody at work likes my bike and says they wish they had a cb and a radio and all that trunk space. Im happy because i told the wife i wanted a bike ( havent had a bike since i sold the cb 900 12 years ago) but it had to have a windshield and a good back seat so the both of us could ride easy. Well i must say momma is very happy with the rear seat and the view. She says she likes to ride on THIS motorcycle. So i guess were keepin it.
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Hi Gang, Just a quick question, I did read the post and saw the illustration on rejetting in the Tech Section but I wanted to know if anyone has done this on a 06 RSTD. Actually to that point what other Mods can be done to this bike. I love the size and look of this bike, I added the Baron Bag slashes. I like the sound but think the pipes are constructed somewhat cheap. I also get popping, and done all the reccomended things but to rejet and open the airbox a little. I love the bike, I just want to make it the best it can be. Any help would be great!!! Pedro
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After owning my '85 for about two years, I finally have it on the road (put on about 3000k) and it seems to run fine, but I don't have anything to compare the performance to as this is my first bike. Power wize I don't seem to have a problem overtaking a friend's '04 V star 1100. I do seem to have a weak #1 cyclinder because if I take off the spark plug wire at idle, there is no RPM change. I know it fires because if that is the only plug wire attached the cyclinder does fire. I did a compression test and it came in at just 130 (after 10 cranks) and up to 150 with some oil. The others seem to be at 150 -160 after only a few cranks. I checked valve clearance and they are right on. I'm thinking the rings are the problem. I read somewhere on this forum about using Sea Foam in the oil for sticky rings. Does this work? I think the bike sat for a number of years so it could be the problem. Is there any suggestions to trying this before I pull it apart?
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I'm getting ready to get rid of my bridgstones. They moan and I don't think they handle all that great and I didn't get that good of mileage on them. Question is when should I replace brake pads. I've got close to 6000 miles on the bike and with the new tires I could get at least 6k or more. Any advice here? Thanks, Bob
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hi all, hope someone can help. i have a 89vr 1300. The stator went out on me i bought a new one. took housing off unplugged wires , replaced stator, replaced battery. went to start the bike and i got nothing. when turning the key on lights come on when hitting the start button lights go out. thats all it will do. Anybody got any idea's what could have happened? Yes i plugged the wires back in, yes i replaced the oil, yes new battery has a full charge.yes kill switch is in on postion, bike in neutral.
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Well,I finally got some of the other bugs worked out,the only major one left is the terrible shifting. It upshifts most of the time if you give it a HARD upshift.Sometimes you need to give it a tap down before it will go up.Downshifting is worse,you almost always have to move the lever up between shifts down.2nd and 1st are the worst.Sometimes it skips 2nd and goes straight to neutral.The bike has 140,000 km(~88000 miles).It almost acts like the spring on the ratchet mechanism is weak.It used to shift better cold than hot but now it seems to be the same all the time.So far I have; --Bled clutch twice so completely new fluid there. --Made sure the master cylinder was only half full in case the vent was blocked. (incidentally it doesnt shift worth a darn even without the clutch...every other bike I've had would) --shimmed up the sloppy linkage at the shift lever and down at the engine case --Changed the oil (tried seafoam for a few miles in the oil before it was changed --made sure all the pins were present behind their tabs in the starwheel (behind clutch basket)and made sure all the tabs were bent over tight. I guess I should pull the clutch basket and start looking for stuff to replace?Maybe order a new shift drum assembly? I'm kinda getting sick of spending money on it though,I've put about 500km on it and spent about $1400 on it since I got it...Would have been more without DonB's help (Thanks!) It runs great now though (new carb diaphragms,valve adjust,carb sync) Still not as much power as I was expecting but maybe my GS1100gk spoiled me:confused24:. Any suggestions? Thanks Steve
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When the bike is not running lauri and i can talk fine to each other, but when I start the bike lauri barley hear me and i can barley hear her along with alot of noise coming thought the headset its almost like hearing the coils on the bike talking thought the headset. I thought it was just my new headset and i try two diffrent ones with the same results. is there a filter to put somewhere to block that? Also i havent tuned it and not to sure how to do that i have a SWR meter a old one but should work fine. i been surffing the web would one of these power filters work http://www.premiere-electronics.net/store/powercords.html
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Hello all. I just happened across Freebird's post (http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1066), and was so happy that I did. I am a little concerned over these issues (especially the Stator & the 2nd gear issue, as I assume that these two would be the costliest to rectify) because I just recently purchased an '83 Venture Royale, and will be picking it up from the dealership, tomorrow. I am not mechanically inclined, and really don't have the 'depth of pocket' by which to have any such needed work performed by a professional. I am sure that this will give lead for many to wonder why I chose to involve myself in such a pastime - when being positioned within such narrow financial parameters. The answer is, simply, that I love biking. I know that the bike I'm getting is 24 years old, and that parts DO wear out . But I am stepping out, on faith, that (first) the Good Lord will grant me safety & well-being, and (secondly) that I will know a decent amount of riding time before any heavy repairs are warranted. I will have a 30 day warranty period, and I was wondering if there was a way that the Stator, and shift assembly could be tested/checked for their levels of worth, and capability. Or would the situation with the Stator be such that you wouldn't know of a problem with it until it went? As far as riding the bike to tell how the shifting goes with it, I (naturally) have no experience with it - so I'd have no way of telling whether or not it felt right . I remember, 15-16 years back, how I had occasion to ride a number of different bikes. Some were very easy shifters, while others were not, and I would have no way of knowing what is characteristic for any particular bike - as opposed to something being wrong. Any direction in this matter would be greatly appreciated, and I offer many advanced thanks.
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Hello to all!!! I have noticed a front end wobble on my bike. I put on the cruise control and took my hands off the bars a couple inches and within seconds it started to wobble. I have never had a bike do that:no-no-no:. I read up on this in another section and how many foot lbs of torque do i have to put on the bearings after i repack them? This site is awesome:happy65:. So far i have read up on how to bleed the rear brakes on my bike and how to repair the suspension computer. I need to put seals in the forks so that will be my next project minus the stealer mechanics bill:rotf:
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Well, I am doing some last minute fixes and upgrades before Ft. Collins, so I installed the Venture Line front rotor covers and caliper covers I had laying around for a while. Somebody mentioned a while back that the rotor covers require a shorter axle spacer to adjust for the thickness of the covers. I bought the covers used, of course, without a spacer or installation instructions. Just gave it a try this afternoon while the bike was on the lift, unbolted the calipers, pulled the axle and dropped the front wheel. The covers went in without a major problem, just held the covers in place and then lowered the bike over the wheel. Really no interference with the extra thickness of the covers. I tightened the axle and torqued the pinch bolt and installed the caliper covers. The covers must have been made for an earlier bike, mine is an '89, I had to cut some material out for the anti-dive wiring and put a little notch in the lower portion to clear the fork tubes. Anyway, the front wheel now does not turn as easy as before, feels as if there is a lot more friction, most likely due to the thickness of the rotor covers. Has anybody installed these covers before using the original spacer? Was there a shorter spacer for the right side included with the original Venture Line kit? If that's the case, does anybody have a shorter spacer or an extra spacer that I can mill down to match? Or should I not worry about it and try a few miles? Another thing I would like to know is if the inserts in the chrome were available in matching colors for the bike, I can not recall ever seeing a blue inlaid set. The caliper covers are inlaid black and gold, the caliper covers brown and tan. Thanks in advance, Klaus -
Has anyone seen these on any bike before. I left a Email for him to get a price. http://www.saddlebagarmor.com/index.html
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Ok so here is my issue (the only thing keeping my venture royale from going down the road) My bike runs mint now bled all the hydralic systems fresh oil change and rearend oil but the clutch wont letgo. I start the bike on the center stand to test everything out, press on the front brake and clutch and kick it into gear, bike starts clunking around a bit and spinning the rear wheel even with the clutch all the way in. if i press on the rear brake it will stall out the engine. any ideas of what needs to be done? I've orderd new clutch springs as I dont realy want to mess with replaceing the whole clutch right now. I'm still new at working on bikes. I do know if I replace one spring at a time I wont end up dissassembling the clutch and it should be a realativly easy job. and just see if that does the trick. Could it be from not enough oil? I put 3 quarts in but not 100% that was enough. I'm working blind as I dont have a manual. bike did sit for 6 years could it fix itself if I just kept running it (clutch sticking from nonuse for so long?)
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Anybody else have the occational 3rd. to 4th. gear miss? It dosen't happen very often. It dosen't slip out of 4th. but rather it just seems to go somewhere in between. I'm just curious if it's my own fault or if it's something mechanical in the tranny I should look into. I plan on taking care of the second gear issue this winter before it becomes a problem and wondered if I should keep an eye out for anything else. This bike is an 84 w/35000 on it. 4000 I put on this spring already. Man I love this bike. When does the second gear usually start to slip out anyway? Thanks in advance for all yur info. Bill
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Plugging the AIS System The AIS is an emissions system which introduces oxygen-bearing air into the exhaust ports on the exhaust stroke. This induces further combustion of hydrocarbons in the exhaust pipe and greatly reduces emissions. It is driven by intake vacuum pulses. The only purpose of this system is to help satisfy our good old EPA requirements. Though good in theory, it's bad in that under certain conditions it can cause a HUGE backfire on deceleration that actually sounds like a shotgun going off. The first time this happened to me, I thought we were being shot at and my wife almost jumped off the bike. Disabling the AIS is a simple process and one that will not affect the performance of your bike in any way. The following is one way of doing so. There are two assemblies that you have to deal with. One on the rear and one on the front. We'll start with the rear and it is very easy. On the right side of the bike, just below the rear shock, you will find the first one. You'll want to disconnect the large hose with the gold clamp. Now..you can use most anything to plug the hose. I used rubber stoppers that I had picked up at a local Home Depot store. You can find these in the hardware department but a wooden dowel rod or most anything of the proper size will work fine. Look carefully and you can see that I have stuck the rubber stopper into the inlet on the AIS valve. Now in this next picture, I've simply stuck a piece of duct tape over the end of the valve and stopper. You can probably skip this step if you want but being born and raised in Texas...it's just part of my upbringing. Any job worth doing is worth using a bit of duct tape on. Besides...it keeps the plug where I want it and not up in the hose somewhere. Now you put the hose back on and you are done with the rear. That wasn't so bad was it? Don't worry...though essentially the same process, the front will give you plenty of grief simply because it's harder to get to. Now the front AIS valve is located just in front of the oil filter. The attached blurry picture is a bit hard to see but you can see the gold clamp that secures the hose you'll need to remove. Now....there are two ways to do this to make it a bit easier. The first way would be to do it when you do an oil change. With the filter removed, you can pretty much forget the rest of this write-up. Simply disconnect the hose as you did on the rear, insert the rubber plug, add the duct tape, reconnect the hose and you are done. If you are ready to do this and you are not ready for an oil change, here is a tip that will make it easier. Just below the drivers floorboard on the left side of the bike (shifter side), you will see two allen bolts. These are the bolts that secure the AIS assembly in place. Remove those two bolts and the assembly will be free, held only by the hose that you will disconnect. You can now pull down on the assembly enough to get to the clamp without skinning your knuckles. Once the hose is off, the assembly just drops out. Now...just plug this hole in the assembly as you did on the rear. Put it all back together and you are done. Not a difficult job at all. Figure about 30 to 45 minutes total.
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Will an 86-93 rear rim and rotor fit on an 83-85 Venture, and also without having to change the rotor if it does?? I have a '88 rim and I thought it might be easier to take it down to the local bike store and have a new VenomX I have mounted on it and then do the R&R on the '83 all at once.
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When cruising down the road, everything sounds and feels great, until I get to 70 MPH. From 70 mph to 80 mph it feels like the bike is beating itself to death. Over 80 mph it smooths right out. Put in a tankful of Seafoam, changed the spark plugs and wire caps. Changed the oil and filter and synced the carbs. Replaced the fuel filter last year. The only solution I can think of is it probably needs a valve adjustment. According to the manual, it should have been done at 26K and I have just over 31K on the bike. Does this sound right? In reading the manual it is a job that I don't think I can handle by myself. Any and all suggestions appreciated!! :confused24: :confused24:
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Coming home from work today, I heard a weird noise from the rear of the bike. At first I thought it was a brake pad dragging. Nope. Then I thought maybe something stuck to the tire. Nope. Only 250 miles on my week old RSV. Called the dealer service dept. The service man asked if it was a "creaking" noise, regaless of bike running. Yep! Taking the bike to him in the morning. He said he has seen it before. The splines to the final drive (? i think that is what he said) were not set deep enough. Anyone else have this problem? Is it safe to drive the bike the 10 miles to the service dept? -
The '96 - '01 Royal Stars have a different rear suspension than the 2nd gen Ventures, and no one makes any leveling links for them, so I'll be making my own. That opens up the option of being able to raise the bike any amount I want. Since the 1st gens are said to handle so well I compared the rake angle of the 1st gen to the 2nd gen, and did some calculating to see just how much the leveling links change things. The rake angle on a 1st gen is 28.5*, and the 2nd gen is 30*. The 1" that the standard leveling links raise the bike changes the angle of the bike by .86*, creating a fork rake angle of 29.1*. To get to a 28.5* fork rake angle the back of the bike would have to be raised by 1 3/4". I could always split the difference somewhere by raising the rear say like 1 1/4" and dropping the front 1/2". As long as the rear rise plus front drop equals 1 3/4" it's all the same thing. Myself, I would prefer the full rear rise for the most cornering clearance, and I'm such a tall guy I wouldn't mind the higher seat either. This weekend I propped the rear wheel up 1 3/4" with boards and sat on the bike and it felt fine. My only real concern is that with that much rise on the bike the kickstand will be a little short. On the boards in the garage it seemed okay, but I wonder how it would be if a parking lot somewhere was sloped the wrong way or something. So the question is - for those of you with the standard 1" leveling links, how much concern is there about the slope of the ground where you park? Any at all? I'd like to get a feel for how much rear rise I could get away with as far as the kickstand length is concerned. I'd really like to not have to make these more than once. I suppose with some extra work I could design an adjustable link. Then I could make a height change in only a few minutes. Thoughts anyone? -
Seems nobody wants to admit to anything .... or few have had embarrassing moments (I doubt that). In 40 years of riding, I've only dumped my bike three times...and each time was when it was standing still !! First time I was parked at the edge of a grassed area. We were all at a party at a campsite. I decided to move my bike, went running across the grassed area and jumped onto my bike (from the side of the kick stand) as though I was the Lone Ranger mounting Silver or something. Granted, I'd had a few brewskies by this time. Well, my momentum when I hit the saddle caused the bike to fall over the opposite side. There I was, sprawled on the ground with my bike on top of me. That was sure the topic for quite a while. Second time was no biggie...it just fell over as I was backing up over bunch grass mounds down a bit of a slope. I didn't get caught under it but needed help from a neighbor to lift it up. Third time (with my 85 VR) I was parked in front of a bike shop. Came out, got on my bike (from the side stand side), plunked my butt down on the seat, heard a *snap* and down I went. Managed to push myself clear as the bike and me fell over. Several "bikers" were milling around and a few got a chuckle at my embarrassment. Had to get help lifting it again. Danged side stand broke. But that wasn't the worst of it. When I got home, I was having trouble getting off the bike and keeping it steady so that it wouldn't fall over... I'm a slender, older guy and that was a bit too much of a task for me (at the time coz I was still rattled from falling off it) so I had to ask this lady and her quite a bit older father to hold the bike steady while I got off and was able to get it onto the centre stand. Unfortunately for me, neither of them spoke english!!! Amazing what sign language can do! Well, I should count my blessings as at least I've never fallen off while in motion (and hopefully never will). That wouldn't be funny or embarrassing at all.
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I am in the market for a touring bike and have the opportunity to purchase a low mileage 2003 Venture. Is there anything I should know about this particular model year or marque? The bike is fully loaded and sounds like a great deal. Any gotchas for the 2003s?
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I am in the market for a touring bike and have the opportunity for purchase a very low mileage 2003 Venture. Is there any thing I need to know about the 2003 model year or the marque?
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