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GeorgeS

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Everything posted by GeorgeS

  1. You Ain't seen Nothin Yet !!! I heard our Sec of Treasurey, got laughed at in China yesterday, concerning them buying more of our super safe bonds. VAT tax, that comeing also.
  2. Deffinatly !! Progressive Suspension, Order a set. Better then OEM Yamaha, bye far.
  3. You seem to be lumping together 2 different relays. Side Stand relay, and Start circuit cut off relay, are two different items. Scroll down to item #41 " Relay assy for side stand P/n 295757-001 Or item #37--- " Starter Relay Assy " 45152-001
  4. Somplace around the filler cap, is a Vent Hose. Remove the hose, from the short pipe exiting the tank. There is a brass fitting inserted in the pipe, It has a very small hole going thru it. Make sure this hole is Clear. I think you have some more problems, but check this anyway. Another thing worth trying, is with low amount of fuel in tank, put in some HEET, and run to burn out Moisture in the tank. And remove hose, from petcock, install a length of rubber hose and completly drain tank with HEET added. Flush it a few times. I'm also, suspecting some dirt or Crud Blockage INSIDE of the Valve Assembly Itself.
  5. OK, I assume, you have the New Relay, and are trying to decide which one installed on the bike, is same as the one in your hand ??? Part Number!!! --- Compare Part numbers, should be stamped on the side of New and Old relay !!! Also, I believe the Plugs on Will only fit on the correct relay. Compare the Pin layout of plug to relay, as a double check,
  6. Go down to your local Gym!! Find some BIG Guy, offer him a bottle of something to come over and give you a hand !!!
  7. 10,000 miles, is sort of the average, if you ask lots of folks. Or once a year, just consider it part of the cost of haveing fun. I change once a year, no matter what-- ( but thats just me ) Stay with the Stock NGK plug numbers--- Nobody has found anything better. ( except the NGK Iriidum plugs ) that cross to the stock number. You might notice a little better cold starts, with those. ( If thats any problem on our bike )
  8. The hydralic system just, Dissengages the clutch, the Springs on the clutch Re-engage it. You will have to Replace All the old fluid, and Bleed the system. Its the same process as bleeding brake calipers. ( I use Valvoline Synthectic Brake Fluid ) If you cannot get it to work correct after this proceedure, you will have to rebuild the Clutch Master Cylinder ( Rebuild kit avialable ) About $18.00 And, Rebuild , or Replace the Clutch Slave Cylinder. ( I reccomend just replaceing it ) About $35.00 Its located under the Aft left crankcase cover. ( you will need a new gasket for that )
  9. First, check the " On - Off " contacts of the Ignition Switch-- They are known to fail -- ( High failure rate ) Follow cable from Ignition Switch, to a Plug, Open plug, use ohm meter to make sure that set of contacts is showing zero ohms, with switch in the " ON " position. Next. pull couple of plug wires, install a test spark plug, to frame, and see if you are getting any sparking. Plugs, might be fouled-- If so, pull out all 4 and see what they look like. Untill you get it running, best RE-Charge the battery, with a Battery charger, then keep your trickle charger hooked up. By now, your battery is most likley in a very low state of charge, do to all the failed starting attempts !!! ( Use a REAL battery Charger ) not just a trickle charger.
  10. Well if they reversed the leads, then ALL the Electronic Units on the bike are probably " FRIED " -- Well, they are fried. However, there might just be some blown fuses. I would go there first.
  11. Park bike on center stand. Under an open garage door, works good. Hang the Mercury stiks from door center handle, works good. Keep the mercury tubes " vertical " You have to position the bike, so the hoses reach the carbs.
  12. Its also a good time to Remove the Starter motor, Dissassemble it, and clean it inside, The Commutator section, And inspect the Brushes, for wear. And check the bearing. Also, clean up the End of RED battery cable, and resolder the end stud. After replaceing, Seal the cable end with Silastic, to keep it dry. And inspect all the Rubber Radiator Hoses that you now have easy access to.
  13. Thats what the ones I order were made of !! Kind of a soft, Aspestos type material. I'm thinking if a person could just find that material in bulk, and make them, then add some high temp Sealant, at the Joint, That might work. Or maby some sheet copper material, would work, to Fabricate them.
  14. Thats rediculous !!! Check several dealers ON-LINE IPC. Those seals are only about 6 or 7 bucks each. You need 6 of them. ( the ones for the Canister ) You can price ANY part On-Line, don't let dealers rip you off for part priceing. !!! The canisters come up on e-bay, often, 20 to 50 bucks usually they go for. Take it to a Welder, and have the Rattleing part removed !!! It takes about 45 min. to remove the Canister, at best, And thats with time off to drink 2 beers !!! UPDATE: !!! OK, my mistake, I checked IPC on a Seattle Dealer, the 6 Seals for the canister are total $163.70. But I bought a set 2 years ago, don't remember where, but does not seem like I paid anywhere near that much for them. ??? $250 must be his total for parts, and labor. There must be a cheaper way to duplicate those Seals ??? Anybody have any ideas ?????
  15. That looks " Lean" to maby " too Lean " Deffinatly , NOT Rich --- Do you still have the old plugs you pulled before doing the needle mod ? compare them if you happen to still have them
  16. There is a Rotary Switch, located under the AFT, Case cover on left side of CrankCase. Shaft comes thru sidewall, of lower crankcase. This is a 6 position switch, 1 thru 5 and neutral. 6 wires from switch, run up to the Indicator ( CMS Unit ) Switch, applies electrical ground, to " One of the Wires " for whatever gear you are in. The Switches, are Notorious for going bad. To get access, you have to pull OFF the AFT left side cover. ( sorry ) ( New Gaskets needed ) Now follow the cable from the switch, to a Pull Apart Electrical Plug. Open Plug, and apply a " TEST " ground, to each of the 6 pins going up to the CMS. As you do this, the Indiator will change numbers. If you get 1 thru 5, plus N. Then the Indicator is Good, and the Switch is bad. To fix switch, Remove it, and Apply, a light coating of Solder to each of the contacts, and they will start makeing good contact again.
  17. Your now a certified, licenced, amateur mechanic !! Congrats
  18. Remove clamps from the Rear Cylinder headers. Remove the front headers. then, from Under the Collector, and to the front of header, Verticly, there are Two 13MM Bolts to remove. Very hard to see. Hold mirrow under the bike with light to locate them. Use 3/8 drive 13MM socket, and 6 inch extension. Then it drops out. With some wiggling. Also, there are 6 gaskets on the inputs and output of the collector, Most likley you will have to order new ones. Its not a fun job, but not that hard.
  19. Drop the fuel Petcock out of the fuel tank, It has Screens, inside the tank, they might be Plugged. ( Good time to completly rinse out the fuel tank ) Remove the Fuel gauge sender unit from top of tank, makes cleaning out the tank a lot eaiser.
  20. Two bad coils ?? Thats a new one, I wonder, if all the bad ignition coils on 2nd gens reported on this web site, could be narrowed down to one or two model years ?? Just a thought.
  21. They only have O-Rings. Even if they look good, or if you replace them, you can still have leaks between manifolds, and heads. Maby lift the manifolds, and apply Sealant. ? Several folks have reported doing this to solve leaks at that point.
  22. Has the fuel tank been Drained ?? Completly drain at petcock, maby change fuel filter, then start opening the 4 drain lines, and let the fuel pump run clean new gas with SEA-FOAM added. Repeat the proceedure for a few days, several times, the sea-foam might clean everything up. Also, Those Vent Hoses, from top of Carbs, 4 of them running down to the bottom of rear shock. They could be plugged at bottom, with road tar etc etc. Make sure those hoses are not plugged, as they provide a VENT for each Carb Bowl. IF Plugged, No fuel flow thru the carb. ( Left field possibility, But?? worth cheching ) Another possibility, is the Fuel Pump itself, it might be partially plugged, or working poorly. These pumps do not make High pressure. Might be a problem there. One other thing to check is the fuel tank Vent Line, ( next to filler cap ) . Pull hose off,make sure that very small hole is not plugged. But if this was plugged would effect all 4 cylinders, -- But??, worth checking
  23. You will have to assume that the Carb Sync is Way out of adjustment. You can do a basic set up manualy. Not to hard go do. First, make sure there is about 1/8 inch of slack in the Throttle Pull Cable. Now Set the Main idle adjust Screw under the #2 Carb, ( left, forward ) to " just makeing contact " with linkage. then Set the Single " Sync Screw " on the left side. to " Just Makeing contact " with the Linkage. then on right side, Set the Forward Sync Screw to Just Makeing contact then set the Aft Screw to Just makeing contact. Now try to run the engine, and Raise the SINGLE, Main Idle Adjust, CW, ( UP ) to Increase the Basic Idle adjusment. Re Check the Pull cable, to 1/8 in. of slack. Hopefully you can get all 4 cylinders fireing. Try this, and see what you have. ??? Next setp would be to start looking for Dirty Electrical Contacts. ( 1 st thing there would be clean the two plugs on the TCI ) Also, make sure the Vaccume ports, have the Rubber covers installed, and Check the Vaccume Line from the lft Fwd Carb, going up to the Pressure Sensor. Make sure its installed. Also, Be sure the Carbs are properly Seated, into the Intake manifolds, this is always a trouble spot.
  24. Get a set of Iridiums, !!! Are you going rideing, or are you going to play polker with Spark Plugs ??? Put in 4 NEW plugs, and quite messing around--- Its Spring, the Sun is shinning !! Its time to Ride ---- And don't forget, your not paying Sales Tax!! on a new Harley !!!!! And I was the guy, who got Bad New plugs on a few occasions over the years. Once for a Chevy V8, and one set of new stock NGK's for my bike. ( one of them was bad. )
  25. I would assume that you do a lot higher percentage of High Speed running down there in Texas , Those Wide Open Space's !! you know. :hihi: I would estimate that here where I live, 80 percent of miles I put on any tire, is only going to be an average of about 50 MPH. ( average speed that is )
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