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GeorgeS

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Everything posted by GeorgeS

  1. 6k, and rear pads worn out ??? Did you ever use your front brakes dureing those 6 thousand miles ??
  2. Be sure to completly drain, the Fuel tank, and start with some fresh fuel.
  3. No windshield. Just another version of a Busa. I can find lots of good used Busa's for about 5 to 6 K And a lot more HP. Sorry Bemmmmer
  4. First thing first, Bleed thru All of the old fluid. Replace it all. When you have cover off Resovoiur, there are two very small holes, in bottom, make sure they are BOTH, open. One is easy to see, the other is so small its hard to see. After bleeding, it should work OK. If not, you will have to rebuild the Master Cylinder, and Replace, or rebuild the Slave cylinder.
  5. After reading several posting concerning failed Ignition Coils on 2nd gen bikes. And, don't recall seeing any, coils reported actually failed, on 1st gen bikes. Question comes up ??? Can 1st gen coils be mounted on the 2nd gen bikes. And of course would this be a wise thing to do. Remember, its pretty hard to tell if only one cylinder on these engines is not running correctly. Due to reported history, there must be some quality control problem with the 2nd gen coils. Just a thought ---
  6. I did the same basic thing on my 89 1st gen. Two Pc-680's, Switched, run either one or both. Works great, Always have 12.7 V to everything, even Ignition system dureing the start sequence.
  7. Don't think it can hurt anything. I took mine apart with about 45K on it. It was getting close to Dry inside the throttle joint. . If you do decide to open up that Joint, be careful, there is a spring in there, that will " Fly Across the Garage " and dissapear into to a Black Hole !!!! You have been warned . !! Letting light oil run down the cables can hurt anything either. Another thing, as long as your looking at cables, check the Pull cable at the Carb, end, make sure its not Fraying there. Mine did, cable broke, had to replace the cables. Big job on first Gen. I Keep Greese on the cable right above the Carb, now.
  8. Well, they do need a little warm up time. Usually 1/2 choke for about 1 min. does it. At least thats how mine always was, But I only need choke, for cold starts in the morning.
  9. I put in about 1 3/4 oz. less then then Spec. Or, fill to 5 1/2 inchs below top of tubes,
  10. Did you open up the Switch unit on the handle bar's, and Lubricate the Twist Grip. It might be binding right there. Look under the unit, there are 2 , #2 phillips head Screws, Remove them the unit will split, top and bottom. Now you can check the cables, and Lubricate the twist grip, Use greese. Maby you allready did this, if not start there, Before looking for the " Throttle Joint" I have not opened it on a 2nd gen, only 1st gen.
  11. Maby a bad plug, that start working good after getting hot. Have plug wires ever been replaced ? Maby check to make sure the Choke linkage to all 4 carbs is actually going to the OFF position. Have you ever cleaned the Plugs Pins, at the TCI Unit? Posible high resistance contacts in the Run-Stop Switch. Clean with electrical contact cleaner ? Have you drained the Carb Bowls in the Recent past ? Water in the gas tank ?? Have you ever completly drained the tank ? Just a few Witch Hunt items ---
  12. Well maby at this point, with everything haveing been done. You just need to Re-Do the Sync proceedure, with a Morgan Carb Tune, or equivelant tool.
  13. Calif. Bike--- Emmisions Control System. SEE: Page 7-160 of Service Manual " Carburetor Air Vent Valve, system "
  14. Some folks, even rig up a Rear Box of sorts, and have a Small Dog with them. Back in about 1969, I saw a Honda 90 ( not a typo) with a Box on back and there was a German Shepard rideing in the Box, and His Tail was dragging. ( REALLY )
  15. Agreed, Maby head gasket failure, and water in cylinder.
  16. Well, that would explaine why the starter is not cranking the engine. Take the Center Cover Plate, off the left side of crankcase. There is a Big Nut on end of the CrankShaft there. Bike on Center stand, in Neutral, and Try to Rotate the Engine with a Socket on the Nut. Maby good idea to pull out the plugs first. Also, if you really think its siezed, I would drain the Oil into a VERY Clean container, and then Strain the oil thru Cloth, of some type. We are looking for metal shaveings in the oil with this proceedure. :crying: However, all hope is not lost, complete 1300 CC engines come up on E-Bay quite often, Much much cheaper, then rebuilding. Question ??? Did you hear any wierd Noise's the last time you shut down the engine ????
  17. Maby:-- Again, charge it a high rate dissconnected from the bike, and let it sit for a couple days, it should maintain at least 12.7 Volts, if the odyessy battery drops to below 12.5, just sitting then, probably its time to order a new one.
  18. Well, removeing the battery, for two days, and doing the bench test, then replaceing the battery, will not effect the warrenty. And, besides, I won't tell them that you did it !!!
  19. I think at this point, with many unknown's you should remove the starter. And open it up and check its condx. However, as a general rule, the starters on these bikes do not fail, most of them last to well over 50,000 miles. ( but, anything is possible. ) Clean the commutor, and lubricate. I would still suggest, Removeing the Grounded end of the Neg. Bat main Cable, at the Engine case, and Clean that Stud end. Dip in solder flux, heat with torch, then Resolder the Stud to end of cable. The Start Switch has a second set of contacts, which " open's " and this cuts of the headlight during the start sequence. ( this is normal ) There is a Cable of 3 , #14 wires runs from Stator, to Voltage Regulator, there is a large Plastic, Plug enroute. Open this plug, Clean it, Inspect the male and female pins for Burn , and corrosion Damage. This is a high Failure Rate Item on these bikes. Also find the Main 40 Amp fuse holder, open it, and clean the fuse element contacts. Also, find the Plug " FROM " the Regulator Unit, has 2 reds, and 2 blacks going thru it, Also, Open this plug, clean the contacts, and inspect !!!! Also, on the Main fuse block, ( 6 fuses ) find the Ing. Fuse ( 15 Amp ) Clean the prongs that hold fuse in place, Make sure tight fit to the fuse. Also, resolder the wires to each side of this fuse, ( THIS FUSE SUPPLIES ALL POWER TO THE FOLLOWING ITEMS ) 1. TCI. 2. All 4 Ignition Coils, primary windings. 2. Fuel pump Relay, 3. Fuel pump 4. Pressure Sensor --- Be sure this fuse, is in good condition Also, the Red--- " RUN-STOP" Switch on right handle bar, open it up and clean and inspect the contacts !!! ALL CURRENT FLOW " FROM " the 15 amp Ignition fuse runs thru this switch. IF THIS SWITCH GOES TO A HIGH RESISTANCE , condition, it will DROP the Voltage to all the above items. Also, Your Starter Solinoid, is highly suspect, These solinoids-- installed by Yamaha, ARE NOT, high quality items, they have been a High Failure Rate item . The main contacts inside, them Burn Up, get highly carboned, and turn into RESITIVE HEATING ELEMENTS. This high Resistance in Series with the Main Red Cable to the Starter motor, WILL DROP THE VOLTAGE TO THE STARTER. Also, Fwd, and Above the #2 Carb, ( left , fwd carb ) follow the vaccume line to the Pressure Sensor, ( Its there ) ( hard to see ) Remove the Rubber Boot that covers the 3 wire plug on this Item, MAKE SURE THE BOOT IS NOT FULL OF WATER AND CRUD. WHY?? IF, it is, this can cause a Voltage drop to the TCI. NOT GOOD !! Ok, consider all these items a Witch Hunt-- These are all Known Trouble Spots on these bikes.
  20. REmove the battery, and charge it overnight with a battery Charger. ( Not a Trickle Charger, a real charger ) Let it sit 24 hours, and recheck the voltage, make sure it hold at least 12.2 to 12.3 V, out of the bike, Are there any aftermarket accessories wireed up on this bike?? If so, pull the fuse for those items, untill you get the bike working normal. Popping Noise ??? like what, electrical sparking ?? Check the Red battery cable, all the way from battery to Solinoid, and from Solinoid to the starter motor, Maby, cable is worn thru somplace, and shorting out. ??
  21. Has this bike been parked, in storage a long time?? How many miles is on it. Do you know how old the battery is ? Your trouble could be a lot of things, with more information we can help pin it down.
  22. Try the Hot wire the Ignition Switch, Mod. Wire up a By Pass for the On-OFF Contacts of the Switch. Many many of those Switches have gone south. ( Order a New one )
  23. Any luck ?? How about just removeing the bags, and checking for some loose parts ??
  24. Did you open up, and physically check that switch ??? All power to the TCI, goes thru that Switch
  25. How about a vaccume leak, where the Intake Manifolds, mount to the Cylinder heads ?? I have heard of a few folks, removed them and replaced the O-Rings, and still have vaccume leaks, Next fix, was remove them again, and apply gasket sealant.
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