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Harmonicashawn

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Everything posted by Harmonicashawn

  1. Harmonicashawn
    Update! I discovered what the P.O. did when installing these carbs. They are linked ALL the time! They gutted the v-boost butterflies and linkage and pooped on some epoxy to seal the linking mainifolds. I'm kinda thinking that I'm losing about 10 horse in the low and midrange as a result. I need to either get a working butterfly setup or block off the manifolds. It must be jetted pretty well (a little rich) as evidence by the spark plugs. "Sydoc"---once again I defer to you for your expertise! BTW--what I heard when turning on the key is radio static or feedback or something.
  2. Harmonicashawn
    I do hear "something" cycle when I turn on the ignition! I never bothered to find out how this works---should I just disable it? I didn't realize it was servo controlled (kinda thought it might be like a Carter AVS carb--counterweighted--pressure differential type deal). I should state that I am splitting hairs because this thing runs great with minimal issues (but I like my crap to be perfect).
  3. Harmonicashawn
    as far as the V-Boost is concerned---I am not familiar with this setup at all. I did not install it and am not sure if it works properly! This bike does have individual K&N filters. I have done some sparkplug reading and the mixture seems to be a little rich---so I'm not concerned about melting a piston or something. The bike runs very well overall, but does need some tweaking! Any tips on the V-Boost tuning would be appreciated! I was getting about 25Mpg until I removed the V-Max rear in favor of a stock one (now I'm getting 35Mpg).
  4. Harmonicashawn
    No--Previous Owner did. I think it works (gets crappy milage--LOL)
  5. Harmonicashawn
    I know this subject has been beaten to death, but I would like to add my thoughts (feel free to correct me). My bike idles great and runs great through the entire range, but just off idle--it goes lean and backfires slightly (this seems common). I decided to richen-up the "pilot screws". I agree with several of the other members who err on the rich side (milage will not be affected much). The "pilot screws" adjust the idle mixture. The Main jet size controls the main circuit mixture. What I usually do on a muscle car is adjust the screws until the highest vacuum reading is attained. What I found with my bike is that No amount of adjustment made any difference at all! That tells me that the entire "idle Circuit" is plugged or otherwise non-functional. The reason the bike idles fine is because the throttles are probably opened-up enough to draw from the main circuit. It's time for a chemical dip.
  6. Harmonicashawn
    Thanks for the quick response. I should also add that my bike has nothing beyond stock that would draw additional power. I was thinking that the R/R was out of spec.
  7. Harmonicashawn
    I founds some tech info on another Venture site (sorry--not disloyal, just thorough). It had output specs for the stator. Mine is perfectly within spec, but the output is less than I would like. Output is between 12.4v and 13.4v (depending on load). I'm looking at a new R/R since my stator is well within spec. Suggestions?
  8. Harmonicashawn
    My speedo only goes up to 120! That was good enough for me--still had alot left in 4th! I suppose I could do the maths and get a top speed for 5th---let me take her for a spin
  9. Harmonicashawn
    Is your fuel pump functioning normally? Will hear it clicking for a few seconds when the carbs are empty.
  10. Harmonicashawn
    Are the "Dashpots" functioning properly? Try running it with the airbox off. Each carb has a "choke-like" slider that should open as throttle is applied. If one or more of these diaphrams is torn--the bike will have very poor throttle response.
  11. Harmonicashawn
    My '89 just turned 50,000
  12. Harmonicashawn
    1986 Yamaha Fazer

    From the album: My VR

  13. Harmonicashawn

    My VR

    Images added to a gallery album owned by Harmonicashawn in Member Albums

  14. Harmonicashawn
    Nice job--both changes are very cool!
  15. Harmonicashawn
    Thanks for the advise! All the solder joints look perfect--so I believe it is a chip /resistor/ diode (the most modern thing I've fixed is a point-to-point tube amp and some crystal microphones!). Skydoc--I will P.M. you with regards to your spare, but I may have to add your name to the title (half the parts are yours!). I would like to also pursue the chip replacement--thanks for the great advise there too.
  16. Harmonicashawn
    While doing another repair- I discovered that the electric dampers on the front forks were disconnected. Any opinions on why someone would disconnect them would be helpfull. I reconnected them, but have yet to ride it.
  17. Harmonicashawn
    I believe my CMS (computer monitoring system?) is damaged. Has anyone attempted a repair of the board or logic chips? I have an '89 VR and have had it for 3 years. It had a sealed battery when I got it and I know about the "resistor Mod" for the "Battery Level Warning". When I read about the Mod--I looked at my bike and saw that the probe was removed and wired into the fuse box. Mod done--right? I have recently addressed the issue of a weak charging system and shortly after solving that issue--my Battery Warning came on. I looked closer at the probe Mod and realized there was no resistor installed! I immediately installed one--then another---then a 100K "pot" in an attempt to satisfy the CMS. With the pot--I was able to try voltages as low as 2.2V with no success. I traced the rest of the circuit to the connector at the board, but all was good. I took the CMS apart looking for any obvious damage (blown caps--etc.), but all looks perfect. Despite this, I believe something within the CMS must have been damaged. I decided to unplug the red "LED" until I can fix it properly. Any help would be greatly appreciated--Shawn
  18. Harmonicashawn
    I'm sure this has been covered, but I thought it bears repeating. My starter cranked very weak. All connections were great and little loss through the solenoid. Skydoc_17 suggested that I install a VMAX starter (4 brush vs. 2 brush), which he sold me at discount (thanks). This Totally solved my problem-period! I read a tutorial somewhere that detailed removing exhaust pipes (it's not that involved and you don't need to disconnect the exhaust)! You DO need to remove the radiator and lower hoses. The bypass tube leading from the thermostat housing and the housing itself (remove the plastic elbow from the water pump and take the entire assembly out). Use new O-rings for everything and use some vasoline to lube them (or something similar). I have a first Gen and I needed to remove the air dam and it was easier with the right side crash bar removed. I spent about 3 hours, but I changed the thermostat and did some other things as well. I should have taken pictures, but that would have cut into my drinking time!
  19. Harmonicashawn
    One tip I could add as to shifting is to "blip" the throttle slightly during the shift. also the quicker the better. I have ridden an 82 / 84 / 86 Goldwing and feel that the VR has a smoother gearbox, but that is just my experience.
  20. Harmonicashawn
    The main symptom is poor throttle response off idle. Also (as mentioned)--irratic idle / racing or stalling. I have a "Motion Pro" Mercury Tool that I've had for over 20 years. I paid $40 for it, but I think they are like $100 now. You definately want a tool that allows you to see all cylinders at once. One tip I could add is to shut the bike off and open the throttle wide a few times (then "drop" it closed) to properly seat the adjusters. I usually do this a few times during a sync. If you do this with the engine running you will get bubbles in the mercury tubes and will have to shut the engine off anyway.
  21. Harmonicashawn
    This may seem obvious, but brake cleaner will take all the oil off and they will be good to go. I've had leaky fork seals before and would clean the pads before each ride (no need to remove--just hit them with the aerosol).
  22. Harmonicashawn
    I don't think ride height is an issue on the Goldwing. The Flat-4 engine makes the bike have a very low center-of-gravity and (I think) a little easier to handle. In contrast--The VR corners faster because the weight is higher. Both bikes have about 100 bhp (give or take). Timing belts are very easy to change (not sure about the stator). My biggest complaint about the Goldwing was: the engine is so wide that I kept hitting my shins on the motor everytime I put my feet down for a stop. I ended up with a VR, but that was partly brand loyalty. Like several others have said--both great bikes!
  23. Harmonicashawn
    Most of these bikes use "constant Velocity" carburators. There is a dashpot that responds to manifold vacuum and feeds air and fuel. Try removing the aircleaner and watching to see if the "sliders" are opening when the throttle is opened (engine running).
  24. Harmonicashawn
    The clutch slips at W.O.T. (all gears) or heavy acceleration in 4th and 5th. I suspect it was ridden hard despite this since the clutch was glazed. After a season of normal riding it worked much better, but still couldn't go W.O.T. without slipping. I use Yamalube oil so that may have helped--no idea what was in there previously. Master cylinder level is not too high and the clutch has good freeplay. It feels like a normal clutch that has just worn out (50,000 miles / unknown history / probably some abuse). My previous experience with bike clutches is mostly Ninjas and they are usually REALLY abused. I talked with Earl and he is going to hook me up with some new parts.
  25. Harmonicashawn
    If money is no object---put a VMAX motor in with a custom exhaust!. The heads and exhaust on the Venture are quite a bit smaller than the VMAX. Intake and Carburation will only go so far without the other half of the equation (exhaust).
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