stroker ace

I'll take 10 of those please at the $2000 price:stirthepot:.

http://www.gregsmithequipment.com/Atlas-9OHSC-SS-Overhead-Two-Post-Car-Lift

A good friend of mine bought a 1975 Suzuki GT750 aka water buffalo over the weekend. He had one when we were all back in school. It needs a little work, looks really good was a one owner bike.

I prefer EBC brand HH compound myself a little noisy on the front but stop a lot better. You will get where you never notice it. It's not a big noise but is noticeable. MY

Yeah back in the early 70's not street legal race only bike even though I've seen several that were fitted with lights back in the 80's. It was the same bike that Kenny Roberts raced in AMA in the early 70's, it won the Daytona 200 8 or 9 times in a row. They had a dirt flat track edition also. I've heard different stories about them around somewhere around 350 pounds and around 150 horsepower. I actually got to ride one a couple years back at Barber's vintage bike bash. WOW!!!

The picture of the red and white bike is a 1984 RZ500 liquid cooled V4 never sold in the U.S.A. it is street legal. I reckon a few got brought in back in the day, the guy I got it from had bought it from someone in California. The old RZ350 went liquid cooled somewhere in the mid 80's just not sold here. They did fit the engine into the banshee four wheeler though and then killed it off some time in the mid 2000's. I always wanted one of the mid 70's Yamaha TZ750, I think if you have enough funds you might be able to dig one up.

By the way, the 750 Kawi triple was the H-2. Fast in a straight line, but, like the 500, it had a fork that felt and acted like it was made from cheap plastic - really scary on a winding road or coming off a wheelie! My body couldn't handle that riding position for long anymore, but it sure would be fun to go for a quick run again. Andy You are correct it was a H2 mark IV I think, the brain ain't as good as it once was. lol

You could still buy the RZ350 up through the mid-late 80's. I had a 84 RZ350 Kenny Roberts edition that I bought new, sold it like a DA in the mid 90's. I found the pair of 77's at a garage sale back in 2000 from the original owner been sitting for a few years. They still have the original paint, the seats need upholstered, tanks, carbs, brakes etc gone through. I've been riding the blue one since 2001 after my friend rode it he bought the red one from me. Last fall I found a RZ500.http://www.rz500.net/index_files/RZ500_1C.jpg This is not my Bike but what it should look like when done.... if ever My first new bike ever was a 1973 Kawasaki H3 750 triple at age 16 lived to tell about it. I traded it in on the 84 RZ350.

Both are 1977 models the blue one is mine and the red one a friend of mine. We still ride them quite a bit. This was from a ride we did last month. People sure can't figure out the 2 stroke street bike thing.

Back in my motocross days I used the Ventures version of Wipeout as my rider introduction.

I still have a 74 xl 100 a 82 xl 185s both need brought back from dead. I still have my one of my favorite ole bikes a 78 yamaha dt 400 that I still ride quite a bit. I sure get some funny looks with it on the street though.

Here I was thinking the ole XL100's

Yep that works also same but different idea.

I can speak for the wife and Myself, Great investment. We easily do 500-600 mile days after his work. Last year I did the 10-10ths without any issues. A+++ here

Take a 99 cent turkey baster suck most if not all of the old fluid out, fill with fresh unopened can/bottle brake fluid of your choice. Then take take a clear hose that fits the bleeder tightly put other end of hose in a container ( I use old dish soap bottles ) with enough brake fluid in it to cover the other end of hose. Then loosen bleeders, then around 6-10 pumps on front lever fluid should be clear/clean tighten bleeders wipe off done. 10 minutes max if you have your stuff ready. The rear takes a little longer because of reservoir location. You can do both fronts at same time or one at a time. I usually can do the bike in about 15-20 minutes by myself. Keep topping off reservoirs as you bleed and don't let them go dry!!

Good point... I also use/take a gallon pitcher of water in case I spill, rinse first then wipe.

Pretty much the same here except it came from CVS and we always have the Sunburn/Sunscreen lotion. Should cover most of the oh crap moments anything worse you've had a bad one. IMHO

I will agree to a point, for the average rider or non aggressive rider this will hold true IMHO. Those that ride more aggressive or spirited ( called where I live ) you would see a difference by buying a better ( higher grade ) DOT 4 because of the boiling point difference and less brake fade. I have a track only bike and have seen caliper temps as high as 700* degrees at times but using the Prospeed fluid never had brake fade as of yet. When you can out brake someone corner after corner it adds up. Fluid gets changed before every race and pads every other. Would I do this on a street only bike no but I do spend the extra few bucks for the better fluid for when I do ride spirited yes. I also use the HH pads for the same reason Better braking ability. again IMHO I change brake fluids twice a year in all my vehicles including the tractor. Have a brake bleeding party switching between the ATE amber and blue fluids you can see when fully flushed.

Here is the brake fluid I use,( ATE Super Blue ) you can shop around for best price. I got from this place last time http://www.raceshopper.com/ate_brake_fluid.shtml. It will help with the rear brake fade when riding hard and loaded up but they will still fade. I use more rear brake than I should and also get rear brake fade. Had brake fade yesterday rear rotor temp around 600* degrees. Most 5.1 fluids dry boiling are around 518* degrees the super blue is around 536* degrees. Here is a list of brake fluids that are out there. ARRANGED BY DRY BOILING POINT(some prices from my 2010 list and some are updated, check with your favorite supplier, and look for case prices so you can change it often): DRY:401F -- WET:284F --- DOT3 MINIMUM (GLYCOL BASE) DRY:446F -- WET:311F --- DOT4 MINIMUM (GLYCOL BASE) DRY:500F -- WET:356F --- DOT5 MINIMUM (SILICONE BASE) DRY:500F -- WET:356F --- DOT5.1 MINIMUM (GLYCOL BASE) DRY:500F -- WET:???F --- FORD HEAVY DUTY DOT 3 PM-1C (new since 2006) DRY:527F -- WET:302F --- AP RACING 551 ($12.799/0.5L OR 16.9 OZ) DRY:527F -- WET:347F --- VALVOLINE SYNPOWER DOT3 & DOT4 DRY:536F -- WET:388F --- ATE SUPERBLUE/TYP200 ($13.99/1L) DRY:550F -- WET:284F --- FORD HEAVY DUTY DOT 3 PM-1 (pre 2006) ($4/12 OZ) DRY:570F -- WET:284F --- WILWOOD 570 ($7.95/12 OZ) DRY:570F -- WET:284F --- PERFORMANCE Friction Z rated ($6.27/16 OZ) DRY:572F -- WET:410F --- AP RACING 600 ($19.95/0.5L OR 16.9 OZ) DRY:590F -- WET:???F --- TILTON TBR-1 ($11.95/0.25L) (new since 2006) DRY:590F -- WET:518F --- CASTROL SRF ($74.99/1.0L 0R 33.8 OZ) DRY:593F -- WET:421F --- MOTUL RBF 600 ($15.99/0.5L OR 16.9 OZ) DRY:601F -- WET:399F --- BREMBO LCF 600 PLUS ($19.95/0.5L OR 16.9 OZ) DRY:608F -- WET:390F --- AP RACING PRF660 ($29.95/0.5L OR 16.9 OZ) DRY:610F -- WET:421F --- NEO SYNTHETICS SUPER DOT 610 ($11.95/12 OZ) DRY:613F -- WET:424F --- ENDLESS RF-650 ($33.00/0.5L OR 16.9 OZ) DRY:617F -- WET:399F --- MOTUL RBF 660 ($28.99/0.5L OR 16.9 OZ) DRY:617F -- WET:383F --- PFC RH665($28.99/0.5L OR 16.9 OZ) DRY:622F -- WET:???F --- TILTON TSR-1 ($17.95/0.25L) (new since 2006) DRY:626F -- WET:???F --- FERODO FSF050 Super Race Brake Fluid ($39.99/0.5L OR 16.9 OZ) DRY:626F -- WET:417F --- WILWOOD EXP 600 ($18.99/0.5L 16.9 OZ) DRY:635F -- WET:???F --- BREMBO HTC 64T ($32.00/0.5L 16.9 OZ) DRY:635F -- WET:430F --- PROJECT MU G/FOUR 335 ($45.00/1.0L 33.8 OZ) DRY:683F -- WET:439F --- PROSPEED RS683 ($39.99/0.5L OR 16.9 OZ) ARRANGED BY WET BOILING POINT: DRY:500F -- WET:???F --- FORD HEAVY DUTY DOT 3 PM-1C (new since 2006) DRY:590F -- WET:???F --- TILTON TBR-1 ($11.95/0.25L) (new since 2006) DRY:622F -- WET:???F --- TILTON TSR-1 ($17.95/0.25L) (new since 2006) DRY:626F -- WET:???F --- FERODO FSF050 Super Race Brake Fluid (new since 2009) DRY:635F -- WET:???F --- BREMBO HTC 64T DRY:401F -- WET:284F --- DOT3 MINIMUM DRY:570F -- WET:284F --- WILWOOD 570 DRY:570F -- WET:284F --- PERFORMANCE Friction Z rated DRY:550F -- WET:284F --- FORD HEAVY DUTY DOT 3 DRY:527F -- WET:302F --- AP RACING 551 DRY:446F -- WET:311F --- DOT4 MINIMUM DRY:527F -- WET:347F --- VALVOLINE SYNPOWER DOT3 & DOT4 DRY:500F -- WET:356F --- DOT5.1 MINIMUM (GLYCOL BASE) DRY:500F -- WET:356F --- DOT5 MINIMUM (SILICONE BASE) DRY:617F -- WET:383F --- PFC RH665 (new since 2011) DRY:536F -- WET:388F --- ATE SUPERBLUE/TYP200 DRY:608F -- WET:390F --- AP RACING PRF660 DRY:601F -- WET:399F --- BREMBO LCF 600 PLUS DRY:617F -- WET:399F --- MOTUL RBF 660 DRY:572F -- WET:410F --- AP RACING 600 DRY:626F -- WET:417F --- WILWOOD EXP 600 DRY:593F -- WET:421F --- MOTUL RBF 600 DRY:610F -- WET:421F --- NEO SYNTHETICS SUPER DOT 610 DRY:613F -- WET:424F --- ENDLESS RF-650 DRY:635F -- WET:430F --- PROJECT MU G/FOUR 335 DRY:683F -- WET:439F --- PROSPEED RS683 (new since 2010) DRY:590F -- WET:518F --- CASTROL SRF Some fluids on the manufacturer's web site did not specify wet boiling point, so I used the relevant DOT 3 value. Water absorption: DOT 3: This brake fluid has a glycol base with additives. It is clear to amber in color. It is hygroscopic (meaning it absorbs moisture) and has a minimum dry boiling point of 401F (205C) minimum and a minimum wet boiling point of 284F (140C). It will absorb 1 to 2 percent of water per year depending on climate and operating conditions. Castrol SRF remains as always the Wet boiling champ. I don't know of any other new ones. Now of course boiling temp is not the only thing to consider, as compressibility, water absorption rate, recovery, viscosity index, etc all play a part. But without a brake dyno, that data is hard to get.

Yep stay off the rears so much use more front brake, or just slow down.

2006

I personally don't worry that much with a tool kit just keep up/with the maintenance. If something is going to break that I haven't taken care of already more than likely I won't have the tools or equipment to fix it. I do carry a good plug kit and compressor along with CO2 cartridges, fuses,tape etc. not much. Usually every time the wife and I get out it's 300-500 miles per day the norm for us. Last year the wife went to the beach for 2 weeks, I took off on the bike. A friend and I did a 10-10ths ride 10,000 miles in 10 days had a great time. It wasn't that hard if you like riding, we rode 500 miles out eat a good meal 500 miles home for 10 days straight. We rode no particular direction just tried to run around 500 miles each direction. We both started on fresh tires and oil changes checked tire pressure every day, even done a oil change.

Make it a combo, Put the wife in the tube top go to Kansas for some BBQ

You will need to go south 28 east 64 out of Franklin,NC toward Highlands,NC to get to Bridal Veil Falls. Driving directions to Bridal Veil Falls3D Franklin, NC 1. Head south on Iotla St toward E Main St/US-441 BUS S 161 ft 2. Continue onto Phillips St 358 ft 3. Turn left onto E Palmer St/US-441 BUS NContinue to follow US-441 BUS N 0.7 mi 4. Turn right onto N Carolina 28 S/Highlands RdDestination will be on the left 15.7 mi Bridal Veil Falls If you turn right on 64 and go about the 6 miles you can turn right on Wayah Road and it comes back out on hwy 19,74,129 turn left then a left on 129 at Topton,NC. It takes you back to Deals Gap, makes a big loop.

I think it all depends on where you live the roads you ride and your riding style as for the mileage goes on tires what ever brand they are. I mainly ride curvy two lane back roads and usually rum them at a good clip, but that is where I live. I am 5 minutes from hwy 116 about a hour from hwy 129 ( in TN ) a couple hours from GA hwy 60 and 75 ( not interstate 75 ) along with NC hwy 276 215 107. That's not including the Blue Ridge Parkway and several other roads that we stay on in this area. Throw in a spirited riding style and you get tire wear. I go through a set of brake pads a year front and rear, usually average around 30,000 miles a year on just the venture not counting the vmax and a couple other bikes that we also have. I tried a shinko on the rear of the vmax lasted around 2,000 miles but it was a $60 tire new compared to the $160 metzler that last around 14,000. My