Freebird

Do I know you. Not unless you are paying.

A big thanks to SeekerFor who sent this list to Marcarl who sent this list to me who uploaded it for you. whew.....anyway, it is a complete Yamaha parts list for the 1984 Venture. I hope that some of you find it useful. I have uploaded it to the First Gen Tech Library: http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?p=701545#post701545

This is the official Yamaha Parts list for the 1984 Venture XVZ12TD. http://www.venturerider.org/parts/XVZ12TD.pdf

Can't leave until Monday morning but the bike is cleaned, trailer cleaned, tire pressures checked, I am ready to get on the road. Just got in from a little ride just around the countryside here. Only about 75 miles or so but it sure felt good. Had a hard time moving the bike at first. Cobwebs and etc. had it tied to the garage floor.

I'm always confused when I see any posts about twitchy handling, stability, etc. on the RSV. My '99 is one of the most stable bikes I have ever owned and I've owned a lot of bikes. With decent tires, proper inflation and steering head bearings properly tightened, I've never had a moments issue with handling. I do have the leveling links but had no problem before adding them either. I've also always run the standard size from tire. Though some folks really like the smaller front tire, I've heard a few comments that some folks didn't like the handling after installing it. Mostly that was when used in conjunction with the leveling links though.

LOL......that's GOOD. Wimmins....you NEVER know what they are talking about.

I agree that the above statement was uncalled for. It's ok to have differing opinions but this type of comment does nothing to resolve any differences.

I got it fixed for you. The problem was the file name. You had it named me,brandy. Commas are not good in file names. I rename it me-brandy.jpg and it seems to work fine now.

I've owned several of them over the years. They were, and still are, great bikes. I may have to agree with the choice. There were a lot of bikes that followed in it's footsteps.

If the chains are connected properly and of the correct length, you would not likely be dealing with a loose trailer. They should be crossed under the tongue and short enough to suspend the tongue of the trailer. If all is done correctly, there is a very good chance of controlling the bike.

Well, this has been discussed before and there are differing opinions. This is just my opinion. The chains are there to protect OTHER people from a runaway trailer. I would feel pretty bad if my trailer came lose and caused the death or serious injury of another person. Whether or not it is safer or not safer for me is not the point. If a rider feels that using the chains makes it less safe for THEM when pulling a trailer then in my opinion, they should simply not pull one.

Here is the article which was recently discussed here regarding the use of car tires on a motorcycle. Though it did cause some of the typical bickering, I know that some were not able to read it. Please take it for what it is, an opinion. You don't have to agree with it but part of a discussion forum is actually....discussion. http://www.venturerider.org/darkside/darkside.pdf Thanks to Rick Butler for sending me the article. Remember folks. If your mind is already made up then that is fine but those whose minds are NOT made up certainly deserve to hear both sides of the issue.

WOW....blasphemy...BLASPHEMY on my own website. It's a terrible terrible thing to see.

I agree and you really shouldn't be using the air pump at the gas station anyway. You stand a real chance of blowing the seal in your shock. Most of us use the small Progressive hand pump. Quick and easy.

She had a special gift and her music will live on forever.

Now Now my fine feathered friend. I can count for you. You KNOW that I am good at that.

I put a FULL can to a tank of gas about twice a year. I've never had a problem with fouled plugs. I've never poured it directly into the carbs though.

Very nice. I do like the new tank emblem also. I hope it brings you many miles of joy. Keep us updated on how you like it.

I agree that it is very cool. Nothing on their website about weight capacities and etc. but nothing but sport bikes listed under their adapters. I'm almost sure that it would not handle a big touring bike. To be honest though, at $575.00, I would prefer to have a decent table lift. $575.00 for this lift plus $90.00 for the wheel set plus $149.00 for the bike specific adapters. Add that up and you could have your choice of several nice table lifts. Still, it is a neat idea and I can see where it would be handy.

Truly sorry to hear this. Jack please know that you are in our thoughts and prayers. I can't even imagine what you must be going through right now. Please know that we are here for you if there is anything we can do.

Anybody thinking about installing new throttle cables on their RSV, be sure to check out the excellent new tech article submitted by SMSgt. It is very well done. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?p=698593#post698593

A huge thanks to SMSgt for this excellent article. Kent did a great job and it is much appreciated. Installing throttle cables on a Royal Star Venture. I did this project while I was doing a change over from RSV handle bars to RSTD bars. As with most jobs on the RSV you will need to remove the driver’s seat and gas tank. This not only protects the tank from damage but gives you access to the throttle/cruise control pulleys. After you have removed the tank remove the black plastic left frame neck cover then you will have complete access to the throttle cables and clutch hydraulic line. If you are doing the clutch it will need to take off the left side lower fairing and to take that off it will easier if you take off the right lower fairing as well. To make your job easier take off the left air cleaner and the mounting bracket. As far as break and clutch hoses are concerned it is a simple remove and replace. You will need to bleed the lines. If you don’t know how to do this you might seek a little help from your friends. Remove the clutch and front brake master cylinders. This is necessary to access the screws that secure the front controls and if you are doing a bar change you will need them off anyway to reinstall on the new bars. Once you have removed the master cylinders you are ready to split the throttle handle bar control/twist grip. http://www.venturerider.org/cables/cables_files/image001.jpg Remove the two screws securing the right handle bar control/throttle twist grip. It is easiest done with a stubbie phillips screw driver. Sometimes a long screwdriver will not fit between the fairing and the screw. I replaced my phillips screws with allen screws because they are less likely to strip out while loosening them. http://www.venturerider.org/cables/cables_files/image004.jpg This is showing the right control split. http://www.venturerider.org/cables/cables_files/image005.jpg You can take the aft (the half with the stop switch on the top) apart by just taking the wire bundle out of the slot on the side with the cables coming out of it. This will give you more working room. http://www.venturerider.org/cables/cables_files/image006.jpg With the control split you can slide the twist grip and all off the handlebar. If you don’t have enough slack you can loosen and rotate the handle bars down this should work for you if all else fails you may have to take the handlebars off. http://www.venturerider.org/cables/cables_files/image007.jpg Once the control is off the bar you can lift the grip up and out of the control giving you access to the cables. Simple rotate the cables to the slot and it will come from the grip. Note, I hadn’t separated the two halves at this point http://www.venturerider.org/cables/cables_files/image008.jpg Once you have both cables loose you should feed them around the front of the triple tree so they are on the left side of the motorcycle. http://www.venturerider.org/cables/cables_files/image009.jpg On the left side of the motorcycle you will find the pulley assemble for the throttles and cruise control cable. http://www.venturerider.org/cables/cables_files/image013.jpg Slide the plastic cable guide back to give you room to work on the pulley assembly. It is the same kind as on the handlebars it should just slide one direction or the other then back. http://www.venturerider.org/cables/cables_files/image015.jpg Showing the cable clamp moved back to over the carburetors. http://www.venturerider.org/cables/cables_files/image017.jpg With the cable clamp pushed back and cables pulled to the left side of the motorcycle the pulley assembly will lay over without any trouble. This will expose the screws and make it easier to work on the cables. http://www.venturerider.org/cables/cables_files/image020.jpg Remove the two screws that are now on the top of the pulley case. (Picture shows screws already removed.) http://www.venturerider.org/cables/cables_files/image023.jpg Opened cable pulley case. The Cruise control is the pulley on the top. http://www.venturerider.org/cables/cables_files/image024.jpg Another view showing the inside of the case. The one cable end in the front of the picture is the cruise control cable. Be careful not to let the spring not zing into space. http://www.venturerider.org/cables/cables_files/image026.jpg Lift up on the single piece of spring and the other end will come off and not be any problem. You will be able to see how it comes out once you look inside the case. http://www.venturerider.org/cables/cables_files/image028.jpg The hook end of the spring goes on the bottom, next to the pulley. http://www.venturerider.org/cables/cables_files/image030.jpg Inside of the cable case without the spring. The blue arrow is pointing at the place where the spring end will set when it is together. The red arrow is pointing where the hook end of the spring goes against the top pulley. Remember this is the cruise control pulley. http://www.venturerider.org/cables/cables_files/image033.jpg With the cruise control pulley removed you can see the cables going toward the carburetors and handle bars. http://www.venturerider.org/cables/cables_files/image034.jpg The two silver buttons are the cable ends for the throttle twist grip. Make sure you put the return in where the return cable came from and the pull where the pull cable belongs. This isn’t hard if you just pay attention. http://www.venturerider.org/cables/cables_files/image037.jpg Remove the screw and bracket that holds the return and pull cables going to the throttle twist grip. http://www.venturerider.org/cables/cables_files/image039.jpg This shows the screw and hold down bracket and the throttle cables going to the top of the last two pulleys in the case. http://www.venturerider.org/cables/cables_files/image040.jpg Remove the cables one at a time so as not to get mixed up. http://www.venturerider.org/cables/cables_files/image041.jpg Wrap the cable around the pulley the same way it came off. http://www.venturerider.org/cables/cables_files/image042.jpg Remove the return cable and install the new cable the same way the old cable came off. http://www.venturerider.org/cables/cables_files/image043.jpg Hold the new cables completely in the cable indentations. http://www.venturerider.org/cables/cables_files/image044.jpg Install the clamp and screw with the cables completely against the indent. http://www.venturerider.org/cables/cables_files/image045.jpg With both cables in and secure you will need to put the top, cruise, pulley in place. There are notches in the lower pulleys shown by the arrows and on the cruise control pulley shown by the small white squares inside the pulley. Make sure they are aligned correctly so your cruise control will work when you are done. http://www.venturerider.org/cables/cables_files/image050.jpg This is the bottom of the cruise control pulley. The arrows are pointing the notches that will go inside the notches in the lower pulley. Put the pulley in so at to allow it to pull the throttle open when the cruise control is set. http://www.venturerider.org/cables/cables_files/image053.jpg Showing the cruise control pulley in place. Notice position of cable end. It should be about the same position as when it came out. http://www.venturerider.org/cables/cables_files/image055.jpg Spring in place on pulley. Note position of “hook” as it fits in top pulley. http://www.venturerider.org/cables/cables_files/image057.jpg Spring pulled around to stop. http://www.venturerider.org/cables/cables_files/image059.jpg Cover back in place. Don’t forget to put the screws in. http://www.venturerider.org/cables/cables_files/image060.jpg Pulley case back in place with cables routed around front and cable clamp back in place. http://www.venturerider.org/cables/cables_files/image061.jpg Replace all the parts you have taken off in reverse order and go for a ride. Disclaimer…… YOU CAN’T FIX STUPID. NOTE: This article was originally submitted in Microsoft Word format. Some of the formatting was lost when I converted it to htm format. Things like arrows, pointers, etc. If you have access to Microsoft Word and would like to view or download it in Word format with the original formatting, I have uploaded it here: http://www.venturerider.org/cables/cables.doc

That's tough. Yours looks a lot worse than my Avalanche from us hitting a deer Saturday night. It looks bad but certainly repairable and should be as good as new when they are done with it. I'm just glad you are both OK. My wife was upset also but more for the deer than anything else.

Done and sent PM to Bill to let him know.

OK...works for me. I'll create an area for Wildbill in the classifieds and then he can post his services offered there.