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Venturous Randy

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Everything posted by Venturous Randy

  1. And, make sure you have a good ground for the dash. RandyA
  2. Wow Jay, you really lucked out. That is a very nice looking 1st gen. You must have a real good brother. Looks like it has some sought after add-ons. If you will look at the top of the page, you will see Venture History. That will give you some good information. The 2nd gen data is a bit boring and slow, but so are the bikes. RandyA
  3. The air/fuel adjustment screws are just below and to the right of the diaphragm cover. They may have a plug over them if they have never been adjusted. Either way, before you remove them to clean them, put a penitrant oil on them to help them come loose. Before you try to move them, make sure you have a good screwdriver that fits snug. The slot can be damaged with a bad screwdriver. You will need to take the carbs loose from the mount that holds them together. When you take off the fuel bowl, most of the time the gasket/o-ring will come loose without tearing apart. This is also what I have seen when taking the little manifold off that holds the pilot jet. The pilot jet and another jet are under rubber plugs. If you do not change any sync screws adjustments, you should be able to start the bike, but as condor said, a good carb sync is required. Keep us posted and welcome aboard. RandyA
  4. Hummmm, is excessive posterior clevage allowed? RandyA
  5. Before you do anything, get down and decide where you want to put the fittings. You do not want them to get bound up when the suspension flexes nor do you want to put them where rubbing over anything will break them off. I used the ones I think were 1/8th pipe thread that are a little under 1/4 inch outside diameter. I did not find a tap that I had that was perfectly correct, but I found one that was close. I then found a drill bit that was ok for the minor pitch diameter on the tap and then pulled the shafts and drilled and tapped. I tightened the fittings up and grease the bike everytime I change the oil or replace the rear tire. I have never had the bike creak or groan again. RandyA
  6. Here is a picture of what it looks like with the lower's off and bikini side panels. RandyA
  7. I fixed my lower vents, I removed all the lowers and modified by side panels to now be bikini style. RandyA
  8. Scott, with this discription, it sounds more like a connection problem than showing you level is low. And you thought you were getting too old to learn anything more! RandyA
  9. He is not saying a 20-30% increase in effectiveness, he is saying the rear brake contributes only about 20-30% of overall brakeing. RandyA
  10. Jeremy made a real good point here. I believe we all have changed or worked on a bunch of stuff and when we start it, we have a problem and don't have an idea where to look for the fix. On checking and cleaning connections, it helps to squeeze the terminals slightly for a more snug fit. I also use a fingernail file to rub on the spade terminals to clean the film/corrosion off. Also check resistance on the kickstand switch to make sure it is not corroded internally as it can cause all types of problems. RandyA
  11. Ed, the next thing you will want to do is take it all off again and put grease fittings at the pivot points. It is not a hard job and when ever you service the bike, a couple pumps of grease will keep it good. I also suggest you take the bolts out where the swing arm pivots and grease there as well. And, if you have not pulled your rear end and remover your driveshaft and greased the splines, this is a MUST. A good driveshaft and coupling is getting harder to find. Also, grease the splines where the hub goes onto the rearend. And you thought you were done. RandyA
  12. One of the things I do when I change my oil is when the oil has drained out, I will turn on the ignition and see if the oil level icon shows. RandyA
  13. Neat story yamaduck. Just shows there are good people out there. RandyA
  14. I can see it now, Eck gets nailed and the cops ask the driver "Why did you not see him"? The response is "I was looking up in the sky, I thought I heard Santa Clause". RandyA
  15. Mine is an 83 Standard that did not come with a radio, but had one in it when I got it. I put a Blaupunt in mine several years ago along with 4 speakers. It does sound very good. I had to make the holder as the old Cycle Sound plastic holder was cracked bad. I am not sure how much you can use if you have a Royale. RandyA
  16. I have evidently lost or misplaced the plastic cover that goes behind the middle gear cover. This is the one that goes over the wires coming from the stator, etc. Have you got one? RandyA
  17. My wife's cousin had an 84 wing and there were no comparison on accelleration. My 1200 would walk away from his. His was also a lot harder to work on compared to my Venture. He had what I thought should have been easy maintenance and had to have the engine pulled to fix it. I think it was the stator. Being inseam challenged, I found the wing too wide where I wanted to put my feet down. RandyA
  18. Mark, if you go to this post, you can see what the collector is supposed to look like, after it is put back together. Does this look like your's? RandyA http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1002
  19. I did not take the fairings off when I took mine apart and greased everything, nor when I removed my forks and rebuilt them. RandyA
  20. I will never be the same again!!! RandyA
  21. When people have talked about the low end power on these 1200 motors, I felt like mine seemed to have more power (torque) than most. Mine at 25mph in 5th gear on flat ground would pull surprisingly strong compared to what other described about having to keep their bike above 3,000 rpm's. I also felt like at about 6,500 rpm's that the power was starting to taper off in that it was not pulling as hard. I know this bike pretty well as I have put 100,000 miles on it since I have had it for 13 years. I have patched the diaphragms a couple of times and it did seem to make it run a little better. With the new diaphragms, it is just opposite. Now, it feels a bit less torquey at low rpm's, but as I go over 3,000 rpm's in 1st gear at wide open throttle it now is almost scarey how quick it will pull to 8,000 rpm's. It now seems like just a few seconds in 1st and 2nd to 70 mph or more. I am wondering if I will get better gas mileage than before as I was getting from about 38 to 43, according to the road and my speeds. Now, if I am going to get anywhere near that good I am going to have to crank her down some as I am now catching myself looking for a place to crank it on. It's almost addictive how much pull it has as it is winding up and at 8,000 rpm's it is still pulling hard. I was just wondering if anyone has experienced this change with new diaphragms? RandyA
  22. Our Dodge Caravan headlights had fogged bad and I did the sanding route before. But a while back I used a kit that not only sanded it down, but had a clearcoat you put over the top. A couple of years later the clearcoat still looks good. I feel you need the kit with the wipe on clearcoat to last very long. Either way, it was a lot better than before. RandyA
  23. Don't know about those roads but we ought to get together for a m&e and ride sometime. I better not post it because the last time we talked about an East Tn get together, it bacame the longest (in time) post ever and we never did get together. I am just up the road from you. RandyA
  24. It sounds like someone has put together something that is not stock. I sounds like the tubes that come out of the collector have broken off. Can you take a picture and post it? RandyA
  25. I do believe so. If you have not done it, you need to drain the forks and put new oil in. I use 15W fork oil. I also put in 1/2 ounce more than the book calls for and that has stopped any bottoming out. RandyA
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