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lonestarmedic

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  1. lonestarmedic
    Just thought I would let you know that a first gen uses a 140/90 16 bias ply tire. Not sure about the whole thing, but it is possible that the drive hub for a first gen will fit a second gen. I know we play with V-Max rear ends on both bikes. JB
  2. lonestarmedic
    You have o-rings inside that may be stuck to the tubes. Also, there are 2 thin round retaining rings in grooves milled into the tubes. The air collars will pull upward to remove, then you can see the wire retaining rings. These will need to come out before you can drop the fork tubes out the bottom. Watch the crossover air line. It has one rigid fitting and one swivel. It is probably a bit stiff and can be damaged. I disconnect the air lines and then twist/rotate the collars a bit to loosen the o-rings. then pull off. JB
  3. lonestarmedic
    Finally got to hit dark roads and get them aimed. These things burn holes in stuff!!!! I cannot see my headlight when they are on. I love the spot version. Note: defect in certain lights!! Circuit board causes FM radio interference!!!! Let Rigid know and they will warranty them and replace the circuit boards. Sending a call tag so it is no charge to me. Sounds like about 10,000 hornets in the speakers when you turn on the lights. It is a known problem to Ridgid. JB
  4. lonestarmedic
    Wasn't really too bad to pull off. Speakers are held on with conduit/cable clamps. I took the speakers apart and pulled the little inserts into the plastic out and used 1/4-20 truss head screws. And you are right, it needed them. Mixer Monkey is so happy, Now he can rock out!! JB
  5. lonestarmedic
    I decided to install a set of rear speakers on the 1986. Several tears ago I ripped out the cassette player guts and had wired the XM from my Garmin into the cassette input. Which worked very well. However the co-pilot did not have good volume since there are only 2 speakers. I purchased a Shark Audio kit with a wired on/off and volume remote and set about revamping the system. Tapped the front speakers and installed a line level converter. Sent that to the amplifier and on to the rear speakers. Consolidated my fm radio/xm input switch to one small 3 pole unit. Stuffed the entire mess into the metal cassette player shel and made a top for it. I still need a grommet for the remote wire. Also the yellow around the edge is grease. I put RTV on the plate and then greased the cassette box. Hopefully this will create a gasket that stays on the plate and is re-useable. I then picked up switched power and adjusted the line-level converter. It has potentiometers to set the input level. Right now I have it where 1/2 volume on the rear speakers sounds about equal to the radio at 1/2 volume. Trying not to rob too much from the front output. I am satisfied with the appearance and the sound. It is really very good! Total cost for the project was about $100.00. Don't believe the 100 watts! That has to be peak at full volume! I suspect about 15-20 RMS. JB
  6. lonestarmedic
    Look forward of the battery for a rectangular black lid. About 3 inches side to side and an 1.25 wide. It will be to the right of centerline. Under the lid are the fuses for the radio. They are ATC plug in not glass tube type. Should be 4 fuses in the holder. At least that is the location on my 1986. JB
  7. lonestarmedic
    I decided to run the spot version based on some angle computations and the distance chart on the Ridgid page. I have some work to do in order to mount them. Old Wal-Mart Platinum Burners need to come off and new brackets for the horn and lights. You are right. At 30watts these things are amazing. Once I get them mounted I will do some testing on distance and beam spread. We shall see which set works best in what applications. I have been running the Wal-Mart lights even with my low beam distance. Stock the Wal-Mart lights have a 40 degree beam spread. Now, I have no complaints for the pricing. The WM lights were $25.00 including tax. I put on stainless hardware for another $7.00. They have been running for 4 years on 2 sets of bulbs. Bulbs were about $6.00 each. Pretty inexpensive for the amount of light. They pull about 9-10 amps as measured by my digital clamp on meter. I had to put a screw in the rim to lock the bezel on. I used RTV to seal the bulb to the bezel and eliminate rattling that destroyed the first set of bulbs. Now the rivets that hold the housing to the bracket are loose. So they have met their life expectancy. I think the Dually lights are worth the money. And I am sure my stator will agree. JB
  8. lonestarmedic
    The weight capacity is ok. I had to fill the system and burp it. I also adjusted the pressure relief valve. It would not lift over 500 lbs. at first. It is stable and does a great job for the money. I altered the wheel chock and added a couple tie downs. It will lift me on the bike. And it will lift am Ultra Classic Harley with rider. JB
  9. lonestarmedic
    My wife cut out a coupon last year for $200.00 off and bought me a lift for Christmas. You find these in the one page ads in magazines. I bet one of my Diesel truck magazines has it. Someone has cut the add out of a magazine and is selling the coupon for a profit. Rules for coupons are specific. 1. You are paying for the service provided to find and cut out the coupon, not the item itself. 2. E-bay will not allow a legible bar code. Someone would try to mass produce them and copies aren't valid. I will look through my magazines and see if I have one. It can be yours for the asking. JB
  10. lonestarmedic
    Ok- I was thinking that the flood would be about right. I am replacing a set of Wally World burners. They are 55watt MR16 with a 30 degree pattern. Should be about right. I tried spot bulbs a couple years ago but did not get the side of the road like I wanted. Now, about that 6" double row spot under the front of the fairing...................... JB
  11. lonestarmedic
    Brad- As several have mentioned, the various things like Internet America work well. An antenna on the roof pointed to a tower. I have a small independent ISP and am right down the road from MikeZ06. Works really well. Not cable bandwidth but pretty good. I pay for a top end package. However, I have 10mbps down and over 3mbps up most of the time. It is unlimited in use and runs me $75.00 per month. It only goes out in the hard driving rain. My tower is a 30ft unit on the roof with a 16" little dish on the top. JB
  12. lonestarmedic
    Did you get the flood or spot beam? When you turned the mounting brackets vertical, did the beam pattern change on the road? Where did you place the mounting brackets? I like the tucked in look a bit better than my brackets. Going to order a set myself as soon as you hit me up with a coupl answers. I like the idea of a quality light with a lifetime warranty. Bet a long bar on the back of a fire truck would light the night. JB
  13. lonestarmedic
    This is without a doubt one of the best finds in my mind. It put me to thinking about replacing rhe entire system. Use an Autocom intercom and a bit of rewiring. I can see the following: An additional set of speakers in the rear. Autocom set up with headsets Switch to turn off speakers and send to headsets (line out converter needed) CB wired to the Autocom using original PTT My Garmin with XM put to the aux. input of the radio. I have been looking at the Autocom SPA set-up and wishing for the correct radio. Thought about eliminating the radio totally but it comes in handy. And this one has 4 speaker output. Many thanks for the post. JB
  14. lonestarmedic
    I get over 12,000 miles on the Continental rear with about 50/50 solo and 2 up. My worry is the age of tires left in stock. I should be ok, as I believe the discontinue point was after July of 2011. That was my last purchase of a set and they were on the Continental site then. JB
  15. lonestarmedic
    I have been using the Continental TK16 and TK17 ContiTour tires on our 1986 for years. Handle great, wear fantastic, and have a good price. So, to reward me for being a loyal customer since 1982 (1981 GoldWing), they discontinued the tire. HOW DARE THEY!!! Don't they know how many classic touring bikes have used these for years? Next, Dunlop will discontinue the raised white letter Elite II. Crap, they heard me! I guess I will try a set of Elite 3 tires on the old girl. Can you tell I hate change? JB
  16. lonestarmedic
    Add to the idea. Bore and tap a hole in the end for a ram mount ball if you really want to add a bunch of stuff. JB
  17. lonestarmedic
    Tom- Home safe. Ran some rain for a while. Had a problem dismounting when I got home. I pinched my sciatic nerve last week and by Sunday it was screaming at me. But a few narcotics and a stretch will fix it. Had to sit in the bike and drop my air suspension to zero to get off. What an old man I am. As to the date, if you want to move up a week we can make it a HALLOWEEN ride! JB
  18. lonestarmedic
    A very well executed modification. Please report back on your MPG loss:rotf: Just had to say it. JB
  19. lonestarmedic
    Jim- First off are you working on a 1987 diaphragm clutch or a 1983 multi-spring clutch? In the U.S. a lot of us use the OEM parts from Yamaha. There is a couple of routes you may choose. If it is a 1986 and newer more than likely the problem is in the diaphragm spring more so than the friction discs. Also think pilot bearing while you are in there. And an inch-pound type torque wrench. Little bolts that snap easily. I would even replace them with new ones. Brands other than Yamaha that I trust: EBC-CK series and Barnett. They both have kits for multi-spring and diaphragm. Barnett has replacement springs for the multi-spring unit. Barnett also makes a drop-in multi-spring unit for the later models. Some folks do not like the diaphragm spring style. Below reference the 1986 and newer unit 1) The stock system uses a half ring at the most inboard friction. A company called PCW Racing has developed a kit with a full disc and a stronger spring diaphragm washer. Many owners install just this kit and it solves the problem. It was first developed for the V-Max. Both series of Venture starting at 1986 until present day use the same discs. Earlier Ventures used a multi-spring clutch. 2) Use the above listed kit and change all of the friction discs in addition. If the steels have not been over-heated they will be ok. Might possibly use fine sandpaper to break the glaze. There is a specific method to do this. Flat sand them on a piece of glass or ather very flat surface. This merits its own discussion if you need help. 3) Double up the stock diaphragm spring. Vastly increases clamping force. If age has attacked the original spring and the friction discs are good, this works. Downside is a thicker stack and a very stiff operating clutch. I used option 2 and Barnett friction discs. Solved my problems several years ago and has performed well solo and 2-up. Don't even notice the slightly greater operating force of the stronger spring. I am leary of option 3 as I do not like double stacking the springs. Many have done it with no adverse effects. You might even send a message to SKYDoc17 (Earl). Not sure if he could get the components down under in an economical manner or not. Also, contact AussieAnnie. She may be able to direct you on local parts or how to get them shipped over. JB
  20. lonestarmedic
    I am running about 3800 on the tachometer at 70mph. My GPS says I am running 70-71mph. As far as I know my 1986 is all original. My rear tire is a Continental Conti-Tour. JB
  21. lonestarmedic
    I had a 1200 for a few years. I really enjoyed it. I think you will need a set of bar risers to get comfortable. Possibly a set of Wild Bill's pegs for the occasional stretch. The 1300 is wicked smooth and very nimble. Triple digits slide up very easy. You might want to keep the 1986 around for a few months just in case you miss the creature comforts. If not, then someone will get a very nice 1st Gen. JB
  22. lonestarmedic
    Mike- As I recall, the chairs gave you about 25mpg. Wpould not have thought 2 fairly round objects like folding camp chairs in bags could do that. But, when he turned them in-line to the bike it was worth almost 5mpg!! Just imagine if he would have left them unfolded. JB
  23. lonestarmedic
    Earl- I have a K and N installed. So, I washed it and dried it out. Then to be sure it caught all of the dust I used 90 weight to oil it. That red stuff looked too thin and wimpy. The diaphragms have over 5000 miles on them since I installed them so I think they are limbered up. I will probably check my valve shims this fall when I rip the tupperware off for a repaint. I need to seal my valve covers-- again. I will have around 85,000 miles on the original factory shim job. My plugs are from last year. Might put in the new set to see what happens. JB P.S. the cast washers are good for slowing slide response to give 2nd Gens a chance to catch up.
  24. lonestarmedic
    I heard that new ride gets 50 MPGE (Miles Per Gas Eruption) JB
  25. lonestarmedic
    More to come. Just wanted to get the 2-up and the new ride showing. The muffler is a HARLEY muffler! It just needed to go down the road to FALL off! JB Pics taken between carb syncs and BS sessions!
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