lonestarmedic

I think it is just about a metric 3/4" Might be 15mm. Not sure how dash connects with shift lever. Only thing I am aware of is the gear position indicator. Think you have a lot of questionable wiring connections. And with a 30 year old bike, not unusual. I was pre-emptive on mime and found every ground and cleaned it up. Oh, check the main fuse in the black holder that has a clear cover. I seem to remember corrosion on mine. The fuse there is an exposed metal link between 2 screws. There may be spares in a slot below the installed link. I replaced mine with a 40 amp MAX style fuse/

Try Stadium Yamaha in Irving Texas. Good prices.

Pull cables and either flush and clean or replace them. I was pleasantly surprised the cables are not that expensive. I replaced a couple last week. Stand spring could be weak. Also if not stock mufflers the stand is known to hang a bit lower with Jardine or Mac mufflers. I have Mac and had to do a bit of adjusting on the stand stop on the muffler. Also check spring around rear shock.

Theottle- possibly as simple as gummed up lube under the right grip. Found it on mine when I bought it. Slid throttle tube off and cleaned inside and cleaned bar end. Rear tire pretty easy. Hole in tire or valve stem problem. Right switch sounds like root of electrical. Losing dash lights sounds like the original fuse panel is bad. The clips lose tension over the years and actually break. Replace with an ATC fuse block. Bottoming out sounds strange, especially one up. Check air suspension. Use soapy water on all hoses. Check the solenoid valves on compressor. To remove throttle tube on right you may need to loosen the cable adjustments. One near throttle and maybe even the one at carbs. Good time to adjust anyway. Good luck.

Mine will start without choke and run about 600. Warms up and the about 1000. And yes, warm weather a lot less choke. Full choke sends a lot of fuel through the carbs. Mine likes about 1/3 for a few minutes when first started. Maybe 2-3. It sounds like pretty normal, especially for hot weather. Think maybe you have been applying too much choke in the past. These bike carbs do not have a choke butterfly like an old carb on a car. When you choke the Mikuni carbs it pulls a plunger out that opens a passageway that allows more fuel in. Texhnically an enrichment valve. And the motor will run on a fairly heavy Seafoam mix. Just gets poor mileage. Maybe you had dirty jets and got them clean.

My 1986 is bone atock on the saddlebags. Nothing like that at all.

As you may have read by now, I have been rebuilding my carburetors and doing a lot of maintenance on the 1986 Venture. I would like to pass on a place I found with great pricing. Now you will possibly need to wait until they get stuff in. I do not know how deep their inventory is. But, I priced valve shims at $10 and a bit of change. Everyone els wants $15-$18!! Footrest pads are about $24 each everyone else has been Over $30. I have no problem going to my local dealer and purchasing and paying the prices for something in stock that I need. But these folks can order right where they do and get them onto my front porch. Also, the shipping for these items was only $11.00 USPS priority/ All little grommets etc. Their shipping charges are not inflated sky-High. STADIUM YAMAHA IRVING TEXAS Not affiliated in any way, shape, or form. But do the math. I saved $8.00 per valve shim times 12 shims needed. That is a mere $96.00 on one item. I just placed another order, and will report on how long it takes to get 12 line items shipped complete to my porch. And how well they did. J.B.

Now I have no idea exactly what fixed it. I started at the intake runners and had everything apart up through the airbox. Idle is a bit erratic as of yet. But the carbs were bone dry and cleaned so I suspect all needs to wear in. My Morgan Carbtune is not working correctly. My bench check will have to do for now. Two rods not moving. Going to pull apart and check brass bushings and slide rods. But, free revving is about perfect. And it sounds correct. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-T217A using Tapatalk

Ok, I did something right!!!! IT RUNS AND TAKES THROTTLE Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-T217A using Tapatalk

And I did the Peashooter and the Shotgun on the bike before going this route. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-T217A using Tapatalk

Restricters are at the carb end. Used Krud-Cutter and water for first bath. Then white vinegar and water. Finally just water. All heated to about 150. Carb cleaner was sprayed into orifices. Then compressed air. Should not have destroyed anything. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-T217A using Tapatalk

Compression on all 4 between 185 and 190. So it is not a lack of pressure.

garyS - not a bad idea even though filter is new and pump output looked good when checked. I get a great flow out of all 4 drains.

I agree something is not right. The cleaner is a 2.5 liter industrial unit. Heated to 150 degrees F. One carb at a time and at least an hour. Looked new coming out. There is vacuum, just not enough to move carbtune rods. Starting to think it is just so far out of synch that it will not register. However I am going to go basic tonight and come back at it. Acts like the idle jets are plugged solid.

Thanks MiCarl, The carbs were pulled apart including the jet blocks and the jets. Sprayed cleaner through before and after the ultrasonic bath. Installed new pilot jets because of small diameter. Floats were set and fuel flows freely from all 4 drains. I set up a level stand next to bike and ran fuel from bike pump to each carb to set the floats. All were at 16mm below the line on the float bowl. All 4 cylinders have spark, but I have spare new plugs to install. I used a spark plug in each wire and grounded to motor. However I did not check each INSTALLED plug for spark. I am going to do a compression check tonight. If that proves good, I intend to pull the carbs, split them in half and go back through the passages. Intake boots were not removed from bike so I will use a propane bottle and hose to check around them ffor leaks before pulling apart. I agree that it sound like a fuel delivery problem on the primary circuit. I am frustrated but almost bet I missed something someplace. JB

Ok, I am ready to bury my bike with a backhoe!! It started running like the idle jets were plugged up. Erratic and low vacuum readings on the Morgan Carbtune. So sinc the carbs had never been off I decided to do a rebuild. Pulled carbs and used an ultrasonic cleaner on them. While cleaning I re-shimmed the valves. They were a little tight but not unusual for 30 years old. Replaced all carb gaskets. Replaced the cut off valves on the side of the carbs. Installed new rubber plugs in the jet block. Along with the usual O-rings. Main diaphragms are almost new. Replaced them a couple years ago. Started bike and it idled fantastic for not being synched. However it will not rev at all. Any throttle will cause a stall. And the carbtune registers no movement. It is all the way at the bottom!! Now, if I use the choke, it will rev up like the throttle was twisted open. I tried adjusting the idle mixture to no avail. Carbs are on square in the boots. Airbox is on tight. Something is drastically amiss here. All 4 cylinders have spark. Tomorrow I am going to check the compression, and install new spark plugs, and check for vacuum leaks. Bike ran great until a 5 month storage where I was unable to ride. Very frustrated at this point. Lack of vacuum points towards either a massive leak or worn out motor. It has 80,000 miles. Choke causing revving engine points to a lean condition. However idle mixture has no effect. With no vacuum, I cannot adjust the synch even though I know it has to be way off due to removing screws and springs. Any ideas will be considered. JB Floresville, Texas

Try a K and L carb kit. Might download the PDF catalog and get a part number. Sometimes even find the kits on Amazon!! Also Old Bike Barn. You can even call K &L. Very nice folks. They sent me a picture of all the parts in the kit so I could see what was in them.

Melts in your mouth, not in the bike. Yes, M&M is a decent approximation. But not a coating that will chip off. JB

Bought what I needed. Got a bag of 5 of the 265 and a bag of the 260 coming. Found them from a place in Austin, Texas. They only sell the refill packages so will have a few left over. Yamaha shop had a huge bin of 280 and up. Full of dust. Did spot a place selling genuine ones for a bit over $10.00 but they do not stock them. The one mechanic tossed me a 262 that I can use in a pinch. It puts me in the tighter acceptable range. JB

Thanks for checking. I have part numbers for other brands at hand. Will buy the one at dealer if I have to. JB

Hey folks: Checked all my valves and end up needing one shim I do not have. I can trade shims under valves and purchase a 5 pack of 265s. However I need one 260 or can use one 262. Will be putting seven of 270 into Buddy Rich's kit. Will also check local dealer in the morning. One shim cannot be too bad. J.B. Floresville, Texas

Don't worry, there is a pump available from Airtex that fits a Honda Civic. It works with only very slight modification. I believe body size is just a bit larger. Inlet and outlets ate off the end in the same configuration as the OEM. The filter on the outbound side of the pump is not needed. The one on the inlet side is enough. Do not damage the crossover hose from the petcock to the pump. It is discontinued. You can make a new one but it will not be as neat. Problem is keeping the hose away from the rear tire and the shock body. I have a normal thick hose in place right now. I am going to purchase a hose with a thinner wall so I can get it threaded through the clamps and holders easier.

Tearing down the bike to rebuild carburetors and adjusts the valves. I have brand new V-max cams. Seems like a good time to install them. However I do not have the springs. Not intending to rev up over stock Venture redline. So, are the springs needed or just a nice extra? Next thought is carb jets with the cams. Sizes? Should I increase the mains a bit? Bike is stock except for Mac mufflers. J.B.

Would like a tool if possible. JB

A bit more trouble but might be an alternative. Centerstand the bike. Tie centerstand forward to a crash bar. Put couple sacks of salt on back seat. Pop calipers off and tie up. Pull front axle and front tire. Push down on front end and it will pivot on centerstand until front forks touch down. Can remove one sack of salt and it will kneel over and raise back up easily. With both sacks strapped on it will not stay kneeling. JB