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Everything posted by Flyinfool
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Ah (Amp Hours) and CCA (Cold Cranking Amps) are two very different things. CCA is the number of amps a new, fully charged battery can deliver at 0° Fahrenheit for 30 seconds, while maintaining a voltage of at least 7.2 volts, for a 12 volt battery. Ah is a little more complex to explain. Basically it is how many amps can the battery supply so that in 20 hours it will be completely dead. For an example if you have a 22aH battery, you can discharge it at 1.1 amps and in 20 hours it will be completely dead. 1.1A X 20 hours = 22Ah. Typically, starting batteries are rated in CCA, and deep cycle batteries are rated in Ah. There is no such thing as having to many amps available to a correctly working circuit. The load circuit determines the amps that it will use, not the source. Just because you have a 20amp battery in your bike does not mean that it is putting out 20 amps when you open the trunk and that little light goes on.
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Some how I don't think that that was the first time that that ass has been in that position. That sure was a nice calm ass.
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side stand shortening after lowering, how much?
Flyinfool replied to cb1313's topic in General Tech Talk
And then the next question is, What is the proper lean angle when on the side stand. Mine has fallen over onto the right side while parked on the side stand. I was also thinking of shortening my side stand. HMmmmm........ Now that I think about it, just find some boards of various thicknesses drive the wheels up on them and when you get a lean you like, that board thickness is how much to shorten the stand. Dang, now I found another project to add to the list. -
Battery Cables for 2010
Flyinfool replied to lonestarmedic's topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
COOL Timing is working out perfect for me. I should get it just about the time I am ready to dive into the electrical on this thing.- 26 replies
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- battery
- battery cable upgrade
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(and 3 more)
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It took me almost 3 years to find a manual for my '88. I did get it on eBay for around $40. There are several sights where you can order a new hard copy for the newer stuff. You can call Yamaha and they will direct you to the printer to get a new manual. I don't know about the newer bikes but mine is 168 pages. That is a lot to print out yourself and might eat-up $40 worth of ink and paper. I am in the process of scanning my '88 manual to post up here. It will take a long while yet to finish.
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Spring is what comes to remind us that there is just 3 more months of winter left.
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My first memory is going to a dance with my dad and going home with my mom.
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Bob, Its THANK YOU for sharing your trip with us. It sounds like you had a great time. and most of us wish we could have joined you. Glad to see you safe back in your honeys hands.
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Unless you shop at stores for really big people, :stickpoke:most bathroom scales do not go up to the 500 lbs that you will need.
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Do not blast the friction plates, just all of the steel plates. I don't know if it really matters or not, BUT, I was always told to keep them in order so that they all go back in the same order they came out.
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You did surprise me. I was just going to PM you to see if it shipped. Once I get the left side of the bike all buttoned up, then I need move it over to get room and then open the right side to put in the PCW clutch upgrade. Then finish the oil change that I started when I cracked the left covers off. DOH!! Question; Should I use any kind of sealer on these gaskets during install, the old ones were all leaking along the bottom?
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Awwwwww Man And I just received mine from PCW last week and am going to install it this weekend. That is a great price that you have compared to what I just paid.
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I just got mine back from Dano. It looks good and I am hoping to get it installed this weekend.
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Battery Cables for 2010
Flyinfool replied to lonestarmedic's topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
Any word yet on when and where to send the money for these wires? Thanks- 26 replies
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- battery
- battery cable upgrade
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I go out to the shop at work and talk nice to the right people and collect up some scraps of approx 4x4 stainless steel. I keep a few of these in the trunk for when I forget them somewhere. I like when I can score the polished stainless, their purdy.
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Wow feel lucky now. In WI it has to be 20 years old for collector plates and 40 years for antique. You can drive it as much as you want except in January. And then you can get a temp permit for January at $5 for 5 consecutive days or $30 for the month. You must still show proof that you have another standard registered vehicle so the collector is not your primary transportation. The cost is equal to 2 renewals + $50 but is good forever. Like I said, Not being able to ride in January in Wisconsin is no big deal. We have had snow on the ground continually for the last 87 days. I just called my insurance agent to see if the collector plates would change my rate. He said that it makes a huge difference for cars but there is no difference for bikes. Bummer. Then he gave me a heads up about the masive increase in my premium that is coming in June do to the wonderful new state insurance statutes. OOPs, did I use the dreaded ins....... word???
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I just got my license plate renewal form in the mail. I decided that I will bite the bullet get the collector plates since they are good forever. No more renewals for this bike ever again. The plates are for my '88 so that covers the 20 year old part. The only drawback is that I can not drive the bike in the month of January, In Wisconsin that will not be an issue. I never had anything worth putting on collector plates before. There are so many people that look at it and will not believe it is 23 years old (manufacture date was in '87), at least not when it is clean right after its biannual bath.
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Center Stand
Flyinfool replied to SC89Venture's topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
Are you saying it is safe on the side stand during an earthquake? I would think the only safe place would be out in the driveway laying down on a mattress, or tied down with safety straps. I'm glad I live where a 3.5 quake is major news that is talked about for a week. -
Weird rear tire wear
Flyinfool replied to jimmyenglish's topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
Monkey wrench in the works time. I am not sure from the OP if he meant that there is a wear difference side to side as in left to right on the tire, or around the circumference where it is bald in one area and 1/8" tread left at 180° around the circumference of the tire? -
There here, I saw a Robin on the south edge of Milwaukee county on Saturday. Hopefully I will get my bike running this weekend just in time for 40° heat wave. Back to the regularly scheduled program. Man I sure wish I could of joined you Bob, it sounds like a blast.
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I tied it to the frame with a short line so that it could not go flying. It lets go with a bang that sounds like a gun shot. Be ready for it. I should get mine back by the weekend, it is supposed to be in the 40's this weekend, I might actually get to try it out.
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What you have recommended is the factory set up where the headlight comes on with the ignition. The reason to have a switch to turn he headlight off is so that while messing with the bike in the garage you can turn off the headlight so as to not discharge the battery as fast. I also like to switch off the headlight when coming up the driveway since my light will shine right into the neighbors bedroom window and wakes up the baby. There is plenty of light in the drive from the yard light.
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We can always go for broke and toss in some religion and Ford Chevy. Oops, thread jack, sorry.
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Ummmm...... Not to throw in a can of worms here but, we are only talking about an LED here and about 20mA (that is 0.02 amps) of current. Forget about all of the special relays and switches. What you already have on the bike will work. Just connect the LED and its resistor across the two terminals of your switch that is already there. When the contacts of your switch are closed, the headlight will be on and there will be +12V applied to both sides of the LED so it will be off. When the switch contacts are open so that he headlight is off, the LED will be in series with the headlight and use it for ground so the LED will Light up. Your headlight element is only about 3 ohms so it will not dim your led by a noticeable amount, or you can reduce the value of your resistor that you are adding to the LED by 3 ohms. All you need to add is 2 wires, the LED, and a resistor (the resistor is not needed if you are using a 12V LED). Forget the other junk. I believe in KISS. Now everyone should be thoroughly confused....