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Flyinfool

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Everything posted by Flyinfool

  1. Flyinfool
    The big ones are so good at getting away, even after they are dead. I did that with a buck (not as big) once but I dragged it farther off the road and hid it under a Pine tree so that it would still be there on the way home when I could meet up with the sheriff. In Wisconsin you would not dare put an untagged deer in or on your vehicle, you have to wait for the sheriff to put a road kill tag on it. Unless of course you wish to donate that vehicle to the state.
  2. Flyinfool
    And I'll bet that there are no taxes payed out of that making it a really good living. Unfortunately there are a lot of people that fall for these scams. A friend of mine got hit by the Craigs list scammer on his sale of a trailer. He just could not comprehend how a "cashiers check" could possibly be bad. And he is a business owner!!
  3. Flyinfool
    Did a quick Google search for "motorcycle engine stand" and they all seem to similar to this. http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/ProductImages/OG/0000_K&L_MC25_Metric_Engine_Stand_--.jpg
  4. Flyinfool
    Pull that fuse out and connect an amp meter across the fuse terminals to see just what kind of current it is drawing. Then while the fuse and amp meter are out try everything on the bike to see what no longer works.
  5. Flyinfool
    What Eck said. It is hard programmed to default to on. There is a switch that you can use to shut it off, but you will have to push that button every time you go into reverse. OR Do like Eck said and install your own switch. Or Do like my significant other did and get rear ended by a Chevy P/U to break a sensor on the back bumper.
  6. Flyinfool
    It appears to have a powered tilt and the front wheel holder crawls uo via a rack and pinion driven by a 12V motor. The ramp is removable in 2 sections. Should take very little effort on the part of the operator. More info here. http://www.blueox.us/Carriers/SC3000.pdf Looks interesting.
  7. Flyinfool
    It appears to have a powered tilt and the front wheel holder crawls uo via a rack and pinion driven by a 12V motor. The ramp is removable in 2 sections. Should take very little effort on the part of the operator. More info here. http://www.blueox.us/Carriers/SC3000.pdf Looks interesting.
  8. Flyinfool
    More pics and progress. Pic 1 The wire connections under the seat. Pic 2 The dressed out wiring under the seat. Pic 3&4 Light bar installed on Trunk with running lights on. Pic 5 The wiring in the trunk. The red rectangle is the diode board. Pic 6 The floor back in the trunk. Pic 7 Running lights from 50 yards Pic 8 Running lights Pic 9 Brake lights Pic 10 Brake lights from 50 yards The reflector backing was reinstalled using double sided foam tape 1/32 thick, with five 1.5 x 2 pieces and the original 3 screws. I have not glued the reflector back on since the backing was rather flimsy once the reflector was removed so I have to have it mounted to the trunk to hold proper shape for gluing. I have not yet reinstalled the reflectors. I am waiting to see if I want to increase the Turn signal portion to be more visible from the back. Increasing the turn signal area will decrease the brake light area. I may need to get someone to follow me to see what it looks like on the road.
  9. Flyinfool
    OK,here are some more pics and progress. Pic 1 The component side of the Diode board. Pic 2 The copper side of the Diode board. Pic 3 The new revised schematic for the Diode board that I promised you and the board layouts. The board was made using copper clad 1 side "perf" board. The holes are on 0.100 centers. The board was made by using a Dremel tool with a cut-off wheel to cut the lines as indicated by the light blue lines leaving the desired circuit. I left the components showing on the copper side for reference. Once the board is made, solder on the components as shown. After the components then solder on the wires. So that I could tell the difference, on ALL of the output wires I added a black stripe with a magic marker. Once all of the soldering is done I covered the board with shrink tubing. Colors are for both the board and bike; Brake - Yellow Tail lights - Blue Right turn - Green Left turn - Brown Ground - Black
  10. Flyinfool
    I will be following this thread. I have been looking at HID setups for a while now. I did find one for around $70 that actually has 2 HID sections in a single H4 bulb for the Hi-Lo beam. That may be one of my next projects once I am done with my LED tail lights.
  11. Flyinfool
    That sounds like a compliment to me. I often say Yum Yum when something is really good.
  12. Flyinfool
    Whenever drilling a damaged fastener, always use a left hand drill bit. Some times the bit will catch and spin the remains of the fastener out. I have seen a right hand drill bit catch just as you are getting through the head and run the remains of the screw farther into the hole, making it even more difficult to get out.
  13. Flyinfool
    With the dimmer switch right next to the cassette deck.
  14. Flyinfool
    Oops. In redrawing the schematic to make a nice pic, I messed it up, do not use the one from back in post #11. It will not hurt anything, It is just that the turn signals won't work correctly. I will post the correct one soon.
  15. Flyinfool
    Thanks Ron It looks even better in person than it does in the pics. At least that is my heavily biased opinion and I'm sticking to it. I have not even looked at how I will do the lower light bar yet. I do not have enough of the red LED strip left to do the lower light bar, I may be ordering another spool of red LED strip and a spool of yellow LED when I get that far. I looked at using yellow LEDs behind the red lens on the top but did not like the look. I plan to leave the stock incandescent turn signals so that I do not have to mess with adding load resistors to keep the computer happy, which ends up not saving any power. Hmmmmmm..... I was planning to use the hot glue so that the lens will remain removable with just a little heat, I thought that the RTV would be to permanent. Now I have more to think about. Reattaching the lenses will be the very last thing that I will do after it is all wired up and working and I am happy with the results. I am thinking about adding the last 3 LEDs on each side of the rear facing area to increase the turn signal visibility to the rear, as I have it now there is only a sliver of the turn signal visible directly to the rear. BUT that will mean decreasing the brake light area or getting a lot fancier with the control module to have the turn signals be part of the brake lights but still flash with the turn signals. I hope to get started with the wiring to the bike sometime this week. I have not looked yet but I am hoping that there will be a nice easy to access wire harness with the Tail, turn, break and ground wires, right under the seat. Or is this just wishful thinking?
  16. Flyinfool
    Here are pics of the controller for the new tail lights. It is a very simple board to build with all parts available at Radio Shack. Now I just need to wire up the bike and put everything back together. Edit. Oops. In redrawing the schematic to make a nice pic, I messed it up, don't use this one. I will post the correct one soon.
  17. Flyinfool
    That is as bad as at work yesterday, while at a design meeting for a new product, we were discussing the differences between the 50/60 Hz power supplied to homes around the world and the 400Hz used on aircraft and some other transportation systems. The C.O.O. (who also thinks he is a motor design engineer) asked the question "so how many Hz is DC power?" I had much difficulty keeping a straight face while trying to answer.
  18. Flyinfool
    Some people have all of the luck......
  19. Flyinfool
    Ya a lot of nice stuff traded in. I didn't think of it till it was to late, my buddy traded in his truck, same as mine but 2 years newer and 150K less miles, we could have traded trucks first.
  20. Flyinfool
    Hey Dan Thanks, The Pics do not do it justice, cheap camera. You are close enough that you could buzz over to check it out before it is all glued back together. I need to go out and buy a hot melt glue gun to put it back together.
  21. Flyinfool
    I am using red LEDs behind the red lens. If you use white lights behind a red lens then the lens will filter out all of the light energy except for the red. You end up wasting most of the light.
  22. Flyinfool
    Here is the first set of pics. The LED strip must only be cut at the cut marks located every 3 LEDs. Notice the power supply and the amp draws at 14V for the brake light (pic 7) and 6V for the running lights (pic 8). The running lights light both turn signals and only the top and bottom strips of the center section. The brake lights everything including the turn signal areas yet the turn signals will still flash. There is a pic of the center of the housing (pic 3) showing an area that had to be ground down to make room for the light strips. In the center of the assembly there are some missing LEDs in the area that will be behind the Venture logo. pics 3 & 5
  23. Flyinfool
    More Progress The lights will be red LEDs rated at 1000mcd each. The lights are from Super Bright LEDs, P/N WFLS-R300. That last 300 is the number of LEDs on a single strip that can be cut in 3 LED segments, you can but smaller/shorter strips if you do not need that much. With all of my plansI will still need to buy more. The set up will be; Each turn signal will have 12 LEDs that will operate as running lights, brake lights, and turn signals. The main center section will have 78 LEDs that are both Running and brake lights. There will be another 66 LEDs that will be just brake lights for a total of 144 LEDs in the center for brake lights. Since the turn signals are also brake lights there will be a grand total of 168 LEDs come on at full power when I hit the brakes (assuming the turn signal is not on). The running lights are all running at about 50% brightness, I will use a variable brightness control to determine the final running light intensity once it is all buttoned up and I can see what it looks like. I of course want the running lights to be visible at night (I don't care if they are visible in direct sun) but I want as much contrast between the running and brake or turn lights as possible. I will be making a controller board to make all of this happen. The controller will be mounted in the trunk. I will put a connector in the cable leading to the trunk in case I ever need to remove the trunk for any reason. The controller will be built in a 4 x 2 x 1 box with either 10 or 13 wires coming out of it. (I have not decided if all of the grounds should be connected together in or out of the box, depending on how much room is left in the box once the rest of the junk is stuffed in.) I have the schematic laid out and will pick up all of the parts at radio shack on my way home from work tonight. I will try to remember to bring the camera home from work so I can start posting pics of the progress so far. (hey cut me some slack, I'm old and the wolves are after me ) At least in the basement this looks awesome so far. I sure wish you could see it. I am very anxious to get this up and running on the bike. I just hate driving at night with just one bulb on the back of the bike.
  24. Flyinfool
    Thanks Rick But I got past this already. The two parts are NOT hot glued together. Heat only made the plastic soft. They are chemically welded, IE they used a solvent based glue. I was able to use a very thin blade screwdriver to crack the seal all of he way around each lens and get them out intact. This took several hours of tedious work, but I got it. Next, the lights.
  25. Flyinfool
    I know that there are other threads for adding lights. I will be using what I feel are the best of the ideas that I have found on this site and others. This is going onto my 88 Venture, (not a Royal) you may need to modify this procedure for your scoot. This project may last all winter as I acquire parts and install them. I will post pics but some buffoon left my camera on my desk at work. The first project is to illuminate the reflector that is on the trunk. I plan to make it a combination of running stop and turn lights. Step one is to figure out how to get the reflector off the trunk. It is mounted with 3 small screws from the inside of the trunk. Sounds easy huh, NOT!!! There is also a piece of double sided tape at each screw plus one more pirce at each outer tip. They used some REALLY strong tape. After a bunch of head scratching and a few failed methods what finally worked was to slide a sheet of .008 thick sheet steel up from the bottom and use the sharp corners to cut through the tape. This worked great and got it off with no damage to anything. Next getting the reflector off of the back. More head scratching to do.
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