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6m459

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Everything posted by 6m459

  1. 6m459
    You see them on ebay from time to time. The rears seem to come up more often for some reason. I have never bothered. Good luck! Brian H.
  2. 6m459
    Has this bike been sitting around for a while before you got it? Likely with gas in the tank and carb bowls? I'd run some Seafoam through it for a while before I went messing around with carb adjustments. Brian H.
  3. 6m459
    The first thing I'd do, if not already done, is swap out the OEM fuse box and replace it with one that accepts more modern ATO fuses. The spring clips on the OEM one are poor and will be a source of frustration if the '90 uses similar ones to my '84's. Also, the ATO fuses are easier to come by than the older OEM cylindrical ones. Here is what I have done to both my '84's Hope this helps. Brian H.
  4. 6m459
    I had a similar problem on my red bike when I first adopted her. A couple of the front reservoir screws were seized in place. The more I tried to shift them, the more butchered the screw heads got. I stopped before the screws were completely wrecked and went out and bought a fine flame Weller butane torch, a little hand held one like this: http://jeremy.zawodny.com/i/weller-wl100.jpg I struck the flame and aimed it at the screw head, from an inch or so away, for a few seconds. The screw being steel and the casting being aluminum, they expanded with the heat at a slightly different rate, just enough to unstick one from the other. After that, I was able to easily remove them with a screwdriver as normal. (Incidentally, although the mini torch worked well for this job, it quit working not long after and I wouldn't buy another from that manufacturer again, I'd look for something of better quality than Weller. Attempts to contact Weller about it were fruitless so I just wrote off the $15 spent on it and chalked it up to experience.) Hope this helps, Brian H.
  5. 6m459
    What was the occasional stumble like in detail? Did it happen at idle, on the hwy, while pulling hard, cold engine / hot engine ? My bike has a little misfire thing it does when not fully warmed up and I am running 3 - 4 k rpm (and sometimes higher rpm too). She idles nicely. When she is good and hot the misfire goes away, only to return when she cools down again. If I get caught in traffic, as I did at a level crossing the other day, and the temp gauge heads to the red line, the bike runs great after that. I have always suspected it is caused by thermal effects on some electrical connection or other, like a solder joint, so naturally I thought TCI. Especially since the TCI is above the engine where radiant engine heat would warm it gradually as the bike warms up. I also hear of folks putting their TCI's in the oven to warm and dry them. Sounds like I'll have to look at my side stand switch first though. Thanks, Brian H.
  6. 6m459
    I used to be plagued with similar behaviour. This year, I changed my front wheel bearings and put on new Metzler ME880 tires front and back. The difference is night and day better stability on the straights. Tar ribbons and long pavement cracks that I used to worry about are no longer an issue. I also had a mild wobble if I took my hands off the bars. Not any more, she runs straight and true now! I don't know which had the bigger effect, tires or wheel bearings but my suspicion is that although the old tires were worn down tread wise, the bearings really needed changing. I used SKF bearings and I posted a thread on here a few weeks ago detailing just what part I bought. Hope this helps. Brian H.
  7. 6m459
    I have had some email back and forth with the speedibleed guy(s) and they seem quite flexible and willing to put together a custom kit based on what you need. I'll keep you posted. Brian H.
  8. 6m459
    No, it works fine. I am thinking of adding a bit more reservoir capacity for bleeding air out of the line to the front caliper. I am also looking at this one man bleeding system, which requires a pressure tight connection to the reservoir. They don't offer ones that accommodate motorcycles, so making the adaptor would be up to me and I wondered how exotic that thread or fitting is. Thanks, Brian H
  9. 6m459
    Is there anything special about the rear brake master cylinder reservoir fill plug thread? Is it something I should be able to pick up a reasonable facsimile of locally? Is it a tapered thread? Thanks, Brian H.
  10. 6m459
    I was looking at this last night and its not all that easy to get to, especially to catch fluid that will drip from there when I open it up and get a wrench on it at the same time as I pump the pedal! I am not all together sure that I don't have a bad rear brake master cylinder. This bike is new to me and came with bad brakes. Could be just air or could be a bad m/c. How best to test the m/c without getting brake fluid all over the place? The bike looks to be in pretty good and unmolested state mechanically. Its odo shows low mileage but in kM's it could easily have been around once already, so its either an unbelievable 20,000 kM's or 120 or 220 I really don't know (P.O. said its 20k). My gut says its probably 120 which puts the bike in the same ballpark with my other xvz12, currently at 52,000 miles (US import). What is the general life expectancy of a rear m/c on these bikes? I have had my other bike since 20,000 miles and never had a problem with rear brakes and I don't read a lot of VR.org tech forum posts on the subject. My gut says 'there is air in the lines' but my old back says 'don't contort me all up to get at that high up fitting when the problem will be the m/c'. Then my brain pipes up and says 'while you are at it, why not modify that rigid line to put in a high spot bleed valve to make this easier'. (BTW, can I buy rigid line with the right fittings in automotive supply stores? What do I ask for?) Trouble is though, my brain talks a good game, but my back is less and less interested in helping out these days. Who do I listen to ? Thanks, Brian H.
  11. 6m459
    Remove the LHS luggage. Near the forward end of the frame member that the luggage braket hooks onto is a cylindrical device with rubber hoses coming from it. That device is the fuel pump. Follow the hose that exits the aft end of the pump, I think it curves around and heads back behind the fuel pump. Inline with that hose is a little white plastic cannister thing about an inch in diameter if memory serves. That is your fuel filter. I changed mine when my fuel pump died. Got the Yamaha one but surprisingly it was only a few bucks. Hope this helps, Brian H.
  12. 6m459
    I have looked at those ads too but I am just too darned cheap to pay the asking price. My plan, if ever I get some time to myself, is to rig up a manual over ride switch in parallel with the OEM themal switch that I can operate when caught in traffic to cool her down. In the Cadilac version (can we still use that analogy now that GM is bust?) I would have the manual switch operate a timed relay to run the fan for say 5 minutes and then go off again automatically. Likely it will just be a plain old spdt toggle switch though as time is so hard to come by. With a manual over ride, I am in control if I need to be. Otherwise the Yamaha design is maintained intact. I would also like to wire an indicator light to show me when the fan is running, but that is just me being anal. Hope this is of interest. Brian H.
  13. 6m459
    In reading up on rear brake bleeding, I found this excellent tech library article: http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=490 I have course have no such modification on my '84 bikes but I was wondering if there is a fittng that could be undone to get the bulk of the air out of the high spot on the rear system line to the front line? Thanks, Brian H.
  14. 6m459
    Hey, Any one interested in this '84 thats for sale a few miles down the road from me? Want me to go and have a look at it for you ? The owner says: I am looking for an excuse here, ................. anyone ? Brian H.
  15. 6m459
    Thanks, I've always wanted a pair but........... "Designed to bolt to the fairing" ? My fairing is rather too flimsy to support the stresses of a set of these. I have enough trouble keeping the mounting tabs on and the cracks under control on my plastic panels. Is this really how Airwings attach? If I'd been designing them, I'd be mounting them to something more substantial like a frame member. Brian H.
  16. 6m459
    I have two '84 standards and their key blanks are different. One bike I imported from N.Y. state and the other one is a native Canadian. The US import bike uses Ilco blank #YH49. The native Canadian bike uses a Curtis blank #YM59. The two key blanks are quite different profiles and don't fit in each other's locks. The flutes that run the length of the key are different. In fact, looking end on at the tip of the key, the profiles are mirror images of one another. Ironically I also have a native Canadian '83 XJ650 Maxim and its key is the same Ilco blank as the US import Venture's. Go figure!? The US Venture only came with an Ilco key. The Canadian Venture came with its original OEM key which I had duplicated by these folks who worked out the appropriate blank from the code on the OEM key. I don't know what any of this means but always thought it was intriguing and decided I'd pass it along for discussion. Cheers, Brian H.
  17. 6m459
    This is the fuel level sensor. Hope this helps. Brian H.
  18. 6m459
    My blue bike's frame is dirtier, but looks the same as your picuters other wise. I don't have access to my red bike just now but I think its factory issue. Hope this helps, Brian H.
  19. 6m459
    I have a 100% virgin Electrosport stator you could try installing to eliminate the possibility that you have a bad one. My bike passed all the static stator tests but the original one was bad anyway. I bought the electrosport unit but never used it as an OEM one came available. Yours on a approval, buy it if you like it. Hope this helps. Brian H.
  20. 6m459
    I have some, and access to more, so if any more are needed give me a shout. Brian H.
  21. 6m459
    Miy blue bike prefers to start with no choke on but likes to have choke added once she fires. She will die unless I add in the choke, but doesn't like it till she fires. It has always seemed an odd behaviour but we get on OK so long as that's how I treat her. Only downside for me is that it takes two hands to get her going. My red bike seems to need the choke on about half way first, but I don't have a lot of experience with her likes and dislikes, yet. Hope this is of interest. Brian H.
  22. 6m459
    This was an interesting thread Dave. Thanks for updating us on this. I'll be checking the boost vacuum ports on my bikes when I see them next. Cheers, Brian H.
  23. 6m459
    It was surprisingly easy to get the d/s back in. I looked up inside the swing arm with a flashlight, so I could see where the u-joint coupler was. Then I offered the d/s in with the spline headed to where I knew the coupler was, and with a couple of tries got it engaged by feel. I did this dry a couple of times for practice and then greased her up and popped her in for good. Much easier than I had expected! My favourite local parts n supplies shop didn't have any specificly "MOLY" grease. They recommended a penzoil grease that I used. All seems good so far. Hope this helps. Cheers, Brian H.
  24. 6m459
    I just calculated that my just retired metzler 'perfect 99' rear tire, lasted me for 16,600 miles. How does that sort of tire life seem ? Thanks, Brian H.
  25. 6m459
    I used this when I sealed the grommets and wires that pass through the grommets and, on a different occasion, I used this when I re used the gasket around the cover perimeter. Both worked well. Hope this helps. Brian H.
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