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6m459

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Everything posted by 6m459

  1. 6m459
    Yup, it fits under the tank cover OK but only just. The corners of the clear fusebox covers just touch the inside surface of the tank cover and that is what keeps it in place on my blue bike which has all the miles on. On the other bike, which is still in the project stage, I have done the same mod but I have put some holes in the plasic base of the fuse box which I have used to run some cable ties to strap it to the strap over the battery. Cheers, Brian H.
  2. 6m459
    Hi and welcome neighbour! I am just down the road from you in Uxbridge. Here is a photo of my upgraded fuse box. Hope it helps. http://home.powergate.ca/~bjh/pix/P0002238.JPG The OEM one is a piece of CR4P and needs to be replaced ASAP regardless of whether you think its causing you problems or not. It certainly wasn't Yama's best work. ATM, blade style fuses are the way to go. The glass cartridge ones are not so readily available and are much more delicate. I have done two bikes like this now and one has about 30,000 miles on it since I did it, with no problems at all. I use a pair of Littelfuse part #03500417BP's ganged together. That gives me space for 10 fuses so I can fuse accessories like heated clothing, trailers, air horns etc seperately with no knots of inline fuses hanging about. What I do is get the new fuseblock ready and then put the old and new side by side. Then I cut one wire at a time from the old and connect it to the new one. That way I don't have a bunch of wires all loose at the same time to confuse me. Works for me. Oh, and also I have recently modified my set up by including a strip of multiple ground terminals connected to the ground wire which originally went to the OEM fuse box accessories terminal. This gives me access to multiple grounding points which always seemed to be scarce before. I cut a piece of 1/8" plastic the same size as the aft face of the battery and tucked it down into the battery compartment behind the battery. At the top edge of the plastic piece, just level with the seam on the battery, I mounted my ground strip to the plastic. It looks as if the ground strip is part of the battery. I'll try to get a pic posted of this soon. Hope this is helpful. Cheers, Brian H.
  3. 6m459
    Don't over look the fuse box as a potential source of problems electrical. The OEM fuse box really needs to be swapped out as it is not Yama's best work. Most folks swap in a fuse box that accepts the ATM blade style fuses. I put in a pair of littlefuse part #03500417 on my bikes. Hope this helps. Brian H.
  4. 6m459
    Here is a picture of mine, this one is on my blue bike but I have done the red one just the same. Clears the tank cover but only just. I used a pair of Littlefuse part #03500417XP's ganged together. http://www.powergate.ca/~bjh/pix/P0002238.JPG Works great and has lots of miles on it now. I think that the blade type fuses are the way to go as the old glass cartridge ones are getting harder to find. Hope this is of interest. Brian H.
  5. 6m459
    My front right brake has recently begun to squeal quite loudly when I use it. The pads aren't that old. I can't recall what manufacture they are but they were a quality item recommended by a trustworthy wrench at the time of a tire purchase. The rotor looks ok but I have yet to get a measurement of its thickness. Perhaps tomorrow. Assuming the thickness is ok, I am thinking of swapping inboard and outboard pads one for the other on that side. Suggestions? Thanks, Brian H.
  6. 6m459
    Is this happening with an OEM original fuse box or a replacement one? Brian H.
  7. 6m459
    Thanks for the suggestions. Actually, I have the mirrors from my XJ that I have tried on the bars of the Venture. I just don't like the look or feel of it at all. I am also watching ebay auctions and thinking about ways of rehabilitating the remains of my now broken mirror but I think the solution I propose in the original post is worth pursuing. BTW, BongoBob, it has been on my conscience that I never did thank you for the other faring bracket that you so kindly mailed to me earlier this summer. Thanks very much for that. It did arrive and it is installed and holding my lower fairing steady. Thanks again! Cheers, Brian H.
  8. 6m459
    I had a little mishap in the driveway this week. Long story short, the bike rolled on my sloped driveway after I thought it was safe on the side stand and fell against another vehicle. Another LHS Venture rear view mirror bites the dust! Fortunately, no other damage to me, the bike or the other vehicle but I am now down a mirror. I am thinking that instead of looking for yet another OEM replacement, its time to adapt some standard lollipop m/c mirrors to my Venture. I understand some have done this successfully by drilling out the cast mirror base to accept the stalk ends of standard m/c mirrors. Thanks to this weeks adventures, I have one LHS mirror base but no RHS unless I deliberately sacrifice a good mirror. Actually I'd be interested in lefts and rights in case things don't go well. I'd like to wind up with a pair. So, I am wondering if anyone has any orphaned cast mirror bases that they could spare? Thanks, Brian H.
  9. 6m459
    Have you considered this option ? [ame=http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=40414]After market TCI[/ame] I am watching this with interest as I had a TCI fail on me earlier this year. Sooner or later these 25 year old TCI's will be unavailable at any price. I think encouraging these Ingnitech guys makes sense. Hope this is of interest. Brian H.
  10. 6m459
    I ran a black wire spiraled down the speedometer cable to power mine. (Ordinarily I like to use red wires for +12V but in this case I wanted it to be less noticeable and so used black.) Hope this is helpful. Brian H.
  11. 6m459
    They really are BUTT ugly when they're naked! Brian H.
  12. 6m459
    Nice work indeed! Thanks for sharing. Brian H.
  13. 6m459
    Hi, What is the approximate cost of parts to do the second gear repair these days? Not the labor, just parts. Thanks, Brian H.
  14. 6m459
    Thanks for the update Todd and such excellent detail. I second the motion that Todd's report be filed in the tech library. Good news indeed! I am looking forward to future news too, please keep us posted on how it runs in the field and any tweaks that you do to the settings. Thanks again. Brian H.
  15. 6m459
    Thanks Tod, I'll be watching this space to see how it goes! I had to install my spare TCI this week and I'm feeling a bit exposed with no more spare. Thanks again! Brian H.
  16. 6m459

    TCI pix Yuck

    6m459 replied to 6m459's topic in Picture Folder

    Actually it did but it was getting grumpier by the day. If I'd known how bad it looked I would have swapped it out long ago. I am hoping it will again once I fix up the diodes and resolder the connections. I'll keep you posted. Cheers, Brian H.
  17. 6m459

    TCI pix Yuck

    6m459 replied to 6m459's topic in Picture Folder

    Ya, sorry my bad on that. I tried out a new hosting service and read the instructions thru rose tinted glasses. Should be better now. Many appologies. Brian H.
  18. 6m459
    Here is are couple of pix of the insides of my blue '84's TCI. http://www.filesanywhere.com/FS/M.aspx?v=917162868c99757cb4a5 http://www.filesanywhere.com/FS/M.aspx?v=91706b8f8c8f6fab6e
  19. 6m459
    Hi, I keep records of all my gas purchases. I have a gas book and I keep it updated every time I put gas in, quantity, date price etc. I am quite anal about it and I have 6 years worth of data on this bike. At the end of the season, or if there is a slow time at work, I crunch the numbers. Based on previous years data, I am doing high 40's sometimes 50 mpg Imperial gallons. 1 Imperial gallons is 1.2 US gallons. So if I am doing say 48 mpg Imp/1.2 miles = 40 mpg US It is a 20 litre tank. That is 5.25 US gallons approx. So theoretically, I could go 5.25 x 40 miles = 210 miles. In practice, my commute is ~130 kilometers (80 miles) round trip. I start out with a full tank each morning and have to put in about 8.5 litres (2.25 US Gals) in the evening, assuming I don't go anywhere else. My gas gauge goes down to about the half way mark after a round triip to work and back. If I go further and my gas gauge gets down to say 1 finger left, I find I have to put in about 12 litres (3.2 US Gals). I find that the gas gauge is a very poor indication of what is in the tank for someone who doesn't know the behaviour outlined above. Much of my commute the gauge is pinned at full. Once it starts coming down, it comes down fast through the top half and slowly through the bottom half. I have rationalized that the top 1/3 of the tank the gauge is pinned at the full mark. The gauge reads less than full from top to bottom across the middle 1/3 of the tank and when the gauge reads empty or almost empty, there is still 1/3 of a tank left. I have also rationalzed that the shape of the tank is likely responsible for the non linearity of the gauge reading. Hope this is of interest. Brian H.
  20. 6m459
    Hey Jim, Good work, congrats! Was that a replacement for an existing grounding strap, or did you add an additional one? Thanks, Brian H.
  21. 6m459
    I buy my m/c oil filters at good ol' Canadian Tire. About $7.75 I think. They stock the Fram ones which come with the O rings. Its Fram #6002 if memory serves, but I don't know what the Can Tire catalogue number is. They are out on open shelves at my local CTC but some smaller stores keep them behind the scenes at the parts counter I've found. I buy Can Tires house brand 4 cycle motorcycle oil too. It ticks me a bit 'cause they package it in 943ml (=1 US pint) jugs instead of a full litre. If I go next door to WalMart, theirs comes in full litres. Always seemed odd to me that the Canadian company would go metric in name only where as the American chain would embrace it fully. Go figure!? Hope this helps. Brian H.
  22. 6m459
    Good use for the old ironing board! Along the same lines, but slightly different purpose, I built one of these as my garage work bench. http://www.hammerzone.com/archives/workshop/bench/wswba40.jpg I have to say, its is as sturdy as he11 ! I built it so that the lower frame is just a bit lower than a pair of 4 wheel dolly's I have so that I can use my shop jack to lift the bench an inch or so, one end at a time, and slip the two dolly's under side by side. Then I can roll the thing around the garage if I need to. I have done this while several hundred pounds of floor tiles have been on the lower shelf. No problems. Hope this is of interest. Cheers, Brian H.
  23. 6m459
    Hi, FWIW: My '84's steering wobble went away when I changed the front wheel bearings. No head bearing adjustment was applied. Hope this is of interest. Cheers, Brian H.
  24. 6m459
    I have a pair similar to these on my bikes: http://imagehost.vendio.com/bin/imageserver.x/00000000/safevehicleproducts/CP2.JPG Bought them on Ebay from this guy. Seems like a good guy and they arrived fast and well packed. They get attention. (In fact people see them and ask to hear them.) I have them in the same location as the stock horns. One horn is shorter than the other, I mounted the compressor behind the shorter one on the RHS of the bike. I used a heavy duty bracket from a local hardware store to mount it. The longer horn has the LHS all to itself on a lighter gauge bracket. I bought some extra air hose and ran a line over from RHS to LHS through just below the fuel fill cup. I have run that way a couple of years now no probs. Hope this is useful. Brian H.
  25. 6m459
    What type of stator did you install, OEM or aftermarket? Perhaps your stator is not good at operating temperatures. Got a warranty on it? Might be time to claim on it. Brian H.
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