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Showing results for tags 'wires'.
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I saw Lonestarmedic during the week and asked if he would help me get the carbs synced on the ol beast. He called on Friday and since yesterday was supposed to be kinda crappy we decided to make a quick job of it. First thing was to replace the plugs and wires. Those E-bay custom wires are sweeeeeet! (unfortunately they sent yellow). I was determined not to have to strip it to the frame so that made poor JB's job a whole lot harder. Then we got to the battery box. It had never been removed and liked it that way. I I rounded one bolt off, broke another but it came off with only a little skin off both of our nuckles. (that will be another day to repair that). Everything went great after that until we started to sync the carbs. It still had a backfire at about 3500 RPM,s but with the diaphagms still on order I expected it. Then We start cleaning up. JB says "how many plugs did you buy?" "Well duuuh! i needed 4, so I bought 4." Why is there still a brand new one in the box? I had forgotten to replace the last plug while he was threading the wire. Installed that and OMG (oh my Gosh) the backfire was almost gone and I gained 200 RPM's on the idle. The carbs will need another sync after I replace the diaphragms anyway, but between that and fixing the intercom system. He was a miracle worker. Thanks again JB, you are awsome.
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I know this subject has been beaten to death, I am no electrical wizard and I've read the fix for the ignition switch, what I'm not sure of, the 2 red 10g wires going to the toggle switch, is one connected to the Brown/Blue and one to the red, or is the Br/Bl and red joined together and then the two 10g wires attached to that. My ignition would come on when the key is between the Acc and On, but when it went to the On position the dash cut out but radio still worked. I was trying to loosen those screws that hold the switch with a hammer and punch...I was a millright we were good with a hammer...and now the switch is working again, I've tried wiggling the key and off and on and its still working. So was it a contact problem and would putting in this "Emergency switch" solve the problem should it occur again. So my dilemma is do, I leave it or wire in this toggle switch. Advice Please. Ian
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I'm spending a little time tinkering and tuning while I'm recovering from a knee surgery and discovered something really strange. While testing my coils according to the manual you unplug the primary wires and test the primary first and then then test the secondary. My discovery is that unless I reconnect the primary wires before testing the secondary I get an open circuit reading on the secondary. I've never seen this before on any coil. The two windings should be completely separate from each other. When tested with the primary wires connected I get the proper reading on all secondaries. I talked to a technician at the dealership where I bought it and he thinks I'm right but he is going to call their techline in the morning and get back with me on it. I'm just wondering if anyone on here has experience with these coils and whether I'm right or not. If I'm right I have some bad coils. OK everyone, here's the latest from the factory rep. The manual doesn't mention that on the Venture the secondary winding of the coil doesn't get it's ground from the coil frame, instead it gets it from the negative terminal which means the primary wires, or at least the negative wire from the harness must be connected to get a proper reading on the secondary winding. I just got the return phone call from the dealership technician. He said he was happy to check on this for me because it would be helpful to him as well.
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Gonna show how stupid I am......
Guest posted a topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
Have new spark plug wires....figured it was time to replace the 21 year old wires. Obviously one end of the wires goes onto the plug, but never having done this before, I don't know the how and where the bare end attaches. How do I get there? Stop laughing....... -
in a few days i plan to start installing the buckeye stator...in the install info in this site, and from buckeye, it says that the 3 wire connector cannot handle the heat...so you must solder the wires together..my question is, is it the connector material itself that can't handle the load. or the actual wiring ( or pins ) that can't i would like to remove the wires from the connector ( not cut ), discard the connector and replug the wires to each other....shrink wrap each individual wire and then shrink wrap all three as a bundle together........................or.....go down to radio shack, purchase their connector, redo the wires with their pins and use that connector.....their connector and pins are bigger than the pins used in yamaha connectors
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hey everyone just want to update my thread on my lighting problem . and i want to thank GEORGES for all his help and everyone else who gave me little bits and pieces well after taking my bike apart (YES APART) i finally followed all the instruction the georges gave me and found the problem with my short in the lighting system . it was the tail light L.E.D.board that i had put in way back in june of 2008 at lake george . apperently there are three wires coming out from the back of the board and somehow one of the wires got pinched wich was very difficult to see and everytime i screwed the cover back on one of the wires was getting tangled up around the screw. sounds simple enough but let me tell you i had two weeks of hell with that problem any how thanks for everyone the helped me out especially you george thank you
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Can anyone tell me what wires I need to tie into on my 1999 Ultra Clasic to hook up a trailer plug .The plug has a red/ white/ yellow /green and black wire but I do not know what wires on the Harley to tie into as they do not match in color.Any help on this would be a great help. Ron
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hello all i just got a ram aqua box 2 for my ipod but it came with no instructions on the back there is a place that says to punch out for the wires but when i bolt the plate on the back there is no place for the wires to go. the plate will pinch the wires and not rest flush on the mount. has anyone have one of these to helpwith the wires where thay run the rest is easy to put on the bike thanks for you help bumble bee kevin wisor 1999 rsv jax fl
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I bought the universal adpater from edsets so I can use earbuds with the intercom system on my bike. The sound is excellent but I can't stand the clicking noise of the engine. With the regular intercom connection I can hear the noise but it isn't loud enough to cause a problem. With the earbuds with the adapter the noise is so loud it drives my crazy. I've read on here where you can move the wires around under the tank and sometime the noise will go away. Which wires under the tank do you move to correct this and are there any other ways to stop the clicking? Thanks, Eddie
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I have a 89 Venture Royale, 86,000 miles on her. Just bought it 3 weeks ago. I do not have a manual as of yet. Would like to change the wires due to the fact that one of them has electrical tape around the plug. Do I need to pull the faring off to do this. It also looks like I have to pull the seat to get to the rear plugs. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.
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Where do i check first? took antenna apart at mounting post No loose , broken wires that I could see Had right fairing off a while ago to replace right speaker and saw no loose , un hooked wires , leads FM radio works CB radio lights up Channels work but NO sound , no static , nothing! is it the controller box? switcher? PTT switch? thanks guys MIKE Q I should at least hear static right??
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My 83 recently started crapping out while riding-I pulled the left side cover and located the 3 white wire connection--difficult to even pull apart (you guys know what's coming next!) Once I got it apart-it looked bad and burnt and melted the plastic connector! The black plastic wire cover that is over all 3 wires is hard as a rock, splitting, oil leaking out! And the 3 white wires insulation is brittle. So, the $100.00 question is---since it needs to be replaced-is there an upgrade for the rectifier/regulator? I know sometimes VMAX stuff interchanges-and since I need to replace the r/r due to bad wiring--should I replace the stator at the same time-seems like the 2 go hand in hand, and if so, is there an upgrade for that? I don't have a lot of extra cash right now and would like to fix this the first time. Any recommendations for vendors or after market suppliers for these 2 parts? (My bike has 38,000 miles on it) Thanks for the help and advice in advance!--Steve -
I'm thinking one of my winter projects on the bike will be to replace the plugs, and since the plug wires are still the original I figure I might as well change them as well. Where's the best place to get a set and what are they worth?
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My charging system on my 83 went berserk about a month ago. Suddenly my volt meter dropped very low while riding. Got back to my shop and the next day I checked the voltage on each of the white wires while the bike was running and it was very erratic. I ordered a new stator and last weekend I got around to putting it in. When I pulled the old stator out it looked like new so I ran the tests like the manual says. Checked the white wires against each other and they came up with the correct .4 something ohms and the short test showed that the stator was good. I put the bike back together using the old stator and then found that the plug from the reg/rec going to the harness was badly melted. Not the white wires from the stator but the red ones going from the reg/rec to the harness. I put on a new plug from an old harness and I installed another reg/rec that I had. I started the bike and it charged normally. A couple days later The voltage dropped way down again so I turned around and was heading home when suddenly it started charging again. Now last night it started discharging again so today I checked all of the plugs, fuses and such to no avail. Before tearing apart again I would like to make sure the battery is not bad. It is one year old but since it is sealed and no acid, How do you check it? Any other ideas? Dick
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can I go to a bigger mm for my wires?? will it work?? -
So a couple weeks ago I broke down on a trip and a local shop replaced the ECU/ignitor on my Kawasaki Vucan. After replacing the unit they discovered the source of the problem was that some of the wires under the tank (lots of engine heat) cracked open or broke and shorted out the ECU. So in order to get me on my way without any more delay they spliced wires into the harness. Everything has been fine so far but before I paid the bill the service manager let me know that because the entire wiring harness was not replaced it was possible that the problem could recurr at some time and recomended that I have the harness replaced when I get home. So the question is: Bite the bullet and have local dealer replace the harness or Replace the harness myself or Try to redo the repair by soldering in replacement wires and insulating or ? This was an $800.00 repair and I am of limited $$ I appreciate all advice from you folks as you have saved my bacon more than once getting my old 83 Venture back up and going.
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I need help on installing air horns on my 2005 Venture. I have taken out the two horns and I need to know which wires to hook up to the horn wires to make the compressor work.
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So awhile ago, I replaced my stator. I did not put any kind of sealant around the plug that the wires go through. I remember having a dickens of a time getting the wires through those plug holes! The wires are covered by some kind of woven material...but I managed. Now after returning from a 6 day trip, I find I get a few drops of oil, under the side stand. I removed the cover, and the wires coming out of the stator have a covering over them, rubber or vinyl or something of that sort. When I squeezed this covering, it was saturated with oil, and a lot came out. I am thinking that since it was full, it would continue dripping. Now that I have squeezed oil out, it will probably take awhile to saturate the covering again. Finally to the question....would it help to apply silicone or gasket seal material to the outside of the wires where they exit the stator? I probably will never get all the oil and grease off the outside of the wires and am not sure if this stuff would stick, or even do any good. Whats the concensus? Just put up with the drips once in awhile, or try and stop it? Sorry for long winded story. Thanks.
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I tried to e-mail Frogman about this but I don't think it went so I'll try this route. Wed. morning my 93 VR didn't won't to start. I put about 3/4 choke turn on ign. and hit the start like always. In only a few seconds I smelled fuel like it was flooded. I shut off the chock held throttle wide open and hit start after about 15-20 sec. it fired ,I applied choke and it idled just fine. rode it the 23 mi. to work. That afternoon it fired right up and I rode her home. Thurs. Morn. no start. tried same tech. but no go. Got home started testing and found I have no spark to any plug wire. Came to the great VR web site and found Frogmans post about the TCI.(oh yea I tested the coil plugs and found I had no voltage going to the coils). Here's my problem. My 6 pin connector to the TCI has different color wires than the post describes. I have black/red, Black, orange, black/yellow,blue/red, and black/white. I have good ground to chassis. The black/white checks like frogman describes. The blue/red has 98.2 ohms to battery ground wire. The rest have no connection to battery grd. My 8 pin connector has 6 wires to it.It has 3.7 ohms to battery pos. with switch on, on the orange, gray, yellow, and white wires( about what frogman says). I have a red/blue and a black with .9 ohms to battery pos. with switch on. This .9 is probably 0 just not making good enough contact. So I think my problem lies in the black wire on the 6 pin, it reads out of limits to battery ground. I trace it along with the orange in the 6 pin all the way through a 2pin connector to the stator housing in left side crank case cover. I removed the cover and I can ohm out the wires all the way from TCI plug to where they go into the pick up coil. I cannot get any reading on either wire to the pick up coil bracket or the exposed metal sensor on the face of the pick up. ( I would think you would get some kind of reading from the wires to something there) I've cleaned several connectors but all looked good. I have yet to find the 5 pin connector under or below the front of the seat. From what I gather from all this my pick up coil is bad. It's $307!!! but hey if I need it I need it.( ridiculous price for that) I just need to see what you all have to say. This is almost over my head but I can generally figure things out. If it's not the pick up then I'm at a loss. Any ideas or experience you all have is greatly appreciated. Dan (shadow) Joyner.:bang head::bowdown: 's
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How 'bout that warning light in the upper left area of the LCD panel? I bought this very clean '85 from a local for $800 , but he didn't have an owner's manual. The only issue I have is that little red warning light. He monkeyed around with the tail light wires adding chrome junk and now only the brake light works (no running or signals). I've cleaned the wires up by removing everything that wasn't O.E.M. and checking all connectors. I don't know if the lights have any effect on the warning light or not. Any ideas while I'm waiting on a factory manual to arrive?
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I pulled up to my local auto parts store at about 7:00 this evening to pick up some spark plugs for my RSV and I parked next to a young guy and his Vstrom. He had the seat off and was starting to take the plastic off. We exchanged hello's and commented that he hoped I didn't have his problem. A short in the electrical system due to melted insulation on several wires that had made contact with head. As I walked away to go in and get my spark plugs I noticed that he was from out of state with an Arkansas plate. When I came out I asked what I could do to help. While Riley (the owner) had fortunately found the short it was in one of those places that you could see but couldn't reach into. Neither he nor I had ever worked on a Vstrom. After I had assured him that I would not leave him stranded we spent the next 2 hours in the parking lot stripping the bike down by taking off the fairing and tank in order to get access to the wires. The store personnel were great in that they let him borrow tools from the shelf. We managed to get enough slack in the wire bundle and separate the melted wires in order to wrap them with tape. While we worked we got to know each other a bit and I found that he is a photographer who shoots weddings. So do I, or I did. So we were able to talk photography as well. Just as dark fell we had the bike back together and running well. He had another 40 miles to go tonight to make his next stop. He was very appreciative of my help and I enjoyed helping a fellow rider out. Hopefully, I'll get my spark plugs installed tomorrow night. DT
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Hey y'all. My 2000 MMLTD (41,000 miles) accelerates just like it should under hard throttle going up through the gears. Seems to run great then. However, it vibrates (misfires?) when I try to accelerate at higway speeds like 50, 60,70, etc.. Acts somewhat like if you tried to accelerate in 5th gear running 20 mph. Shakes. I checked thoroughly and really don't believe it is anything in the drive train like the middle drive gear bearing or anything in the shaft or rear diff. From what I see using my timing light, I think my front two coils, wires, plug caps, whatever are the culprit. Took them out (such a pain) and did the resistance test on each item. All checked well within tolerance. Carbs are synched up perfectly. I've been wrenching for 37 years and am looking for the simple. Don't want to buy coils if not needed. Any body had any wires or wire insulation failures. Any ideas? Thanks. Rusty
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I pulled my radiator overflow tank and pulled the 3 white wire connection apart... I ohmed it out to each other... nothing... I started the bike had black wire to neg side of batery and red probe to all 3 wires (1 at a time) and I got no Voltage... Am I doing something wrong? or did my stator wires some how become disconnected? Does the white plug have to be connected to produce voltage? I'm thinking the Dealer did something to this when I had my Shock Replaced, Cruise & Fuel gauge fixed under warranty. Of course my warranty is run out now and the work was done in March and I haven't done any long trips and have been putting on a tender every night... I kinda knew something was up a while ago when a few times I got a weak crank. Any suggestions??
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Where do these wires go????
Coach posted a topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
I took off all the fairing and removed the TCI box. Put the TCI box back in about 3 weeks later and now I have these wires that I can't remember where they go. They are on the left side of the bike. Help!!!!! Thanks Coach Ron -
I know it is way to warm to be thinking about the juice the carb heaters pull if they EVER come on again, but what better time to prepare for the coming cold weather? In case you don't know, the carb heaters on the RSV pull a total of 60 watts of power, and that is an awful lot when you are riding in cold weather and want to use other stuff like extra lights or heated clothing. Here is a very simple mod you can do that will let you turn off the carb heaters any time you like - typically this would only be in very cold weather after the bike has finished warming up. the carb heater thermo switch is under the right battery cover, right next to the radiator overflow tank. In this picture it is the nondescript item in the rubber cover on the right side: [ATTACH]19342[/ATTACH] The blue item on the left side in that picture is the carb heater relay. This is a "normally closed" relay which is activated by the neutral switch. When this relay comes on in neutral, it cuts the power to the carb heaters. The two black wires coming out of the thermo switch connect through bullet connections to a black/white and a black/yellow wire. It really makes no difference which one you chose, but I unplugged the black/yellow wire (it is the wire running directly to the carb heaters). You can see the new blue wires I used to connect a small toggle switch in -line. The toggle switch is mounted in the black plastic cover behind the battery on the right side, near the rear shock air valve. [ATTACH]19340[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]19341[/ATTACH] That is all there is to it! Just make sure that the switch you buy can handle 10 amps at 12 volts DC (if you can only find a switch rated at 125VAC and 250VAC, you are generally safe with a 10A @ 125VAC rating). By using bullet connectors on the new wires you can just insert the switch in the circuit without cutting any wires or making any permanent change to the bike wiring. Goose
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