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shadow

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    23

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About shadow

  • Birthday 07/04/1962

Personal Information

  • Name
    Dan Joyner

location

  • Location
    Stokesdale/ Piedmont, United States

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  • City
    Stokesdale/ Piedmont

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  • Home Country
    United States

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  • Interests
    3 or 4 day bike trips, canoeing, pool volleyball, skiing ,tubing
  • Bike Year and Model
    '99 Royal Star Venture
  1. shadow
    Sorry I haven't gotten back sooner. Ruffy is right. I should of been more specific at the time. What happened was I was 2up and low on gas so rather than gear down, or use the front in the curves, I was using the rear brake down hill more than usual.( I didn't think is was THAT much) but all of a sudden I have no rear brake. Well, it cooled and came back and we rode the Dragon and the Cherohalla Skyway the next day and never had another problem. I plan to flush out the old and replace it tomorrow. Probably just stick with the DOT 4 since this is 1st time in 30 yrs. of riding this has happened to me. Thanks for all the responses. Dan
  2. shadow
    Hey didn't see this asked or ans. anywhere. Need a few opinions. Wife and I are in Asheville rode the Parkway here yesterday and my rear brake overheated. It's an 09 RSV and this has never happened to me before. We had planned to ride the Tail of the Dragon today and I was wanting to know what others thought. Would it be safe? Does them overheating once make it easier to do again? I think once they have colled they should be fine but I'm not 100% sure. Need thoughts
  3. shadow
    Well. I finally got it out. After Church went by Lowe's and bought an automatic punch. First I tried my air hammer with a punch on it. I put on goggles, long cuff leather gloves, and covered the tool with a heavy quilt. I wanted to protect myself from this thing when it exploded. So I hit the air hammer and hit it and hit it............ Nothing, I take the auto punch since the point on it is much sharper, I think maybe that will do it. I punch and punch and...... well you get the picture. So, now my safety from this thing has taken a back seat to getting the darn thing out. So a cold punch and a 3lb. hammer takes a shot. I beat and beat..... Well you get it, nothing. I can't remove the chrome fender rail because the rear fender bolt won't budge. BUT I can remove the other bolts in it and swing it up off of the saddle bag mount. I do that and I have to twist the mount back and forth but eventually it comes off and the broken tap is in it. I try to turn it and twist it but it and the rest of the bolt is still in there. I take the punch and hammer and well same results. I have these steel rods with #'s stamped on the heads I got in a box of tools at a yard sale. One was the perfect size and I put the mount over the open vise and drove that steel rod till it drove the tap and bolt out. Halli-lou-ya!!!! So any way that's what it took for me to remove a broke tap. I love the Driver's backrest and I'm sure I'll appreciate it more with all the effort to install it. Thanks to all of you for your ideas and concern. This is the best group of people you'll find.:thumbsup2: Dan
  4. shadow
    Gee Whiz Wes, You are probably correct. There is a piece of the bolt still in there. I'm thinking if I can break the tap out I may have to just put a nut on the inside. I hate to do that but breaking another tap is not an option. Finding a bolt that matches is another problem. The one I drilled out was an inch and a half long and only a couple of mm's stuck through. I haven't seen a 1-3/4 so 2in" maybe be only option. What are ya'lls thoughts?
  5. shadow
    WoW, So many fantastic ideas. Tom. I try the center punch idea first. If that don't work I'll get me an automatic punch. And if all that fails I'm gonna take short haul up on his offer on the extractor. I just got this bike a couple of weeks ago. Bought it from a Harley dealer in Fla. and had it shipped to N.C. Due to weather I've only ridden it about sixty miles one Sat. Morn. Found me a drivers backrest that uses the forward fender bolts as one of the mountings. I was so excited when it arrived today then the bolt head strips and the tap breaks. I was at a loss when the cobalt bits wouldn't cut it but I have renewed faith now. Thanks Guys, Dan Joyner:thumbsup2::thumbsup2:
  6. shadow
    Hello Everybody, Shadow here. Can anyone tell me how I can remove or rather drill out a broken tap? It is in the foward rear fender bolt hole. Long story, but the head on the bolt striped when trying very carefully to remove it. So that entailed drilling out the bolt but, my bit did not come out center on the inside of the fender. So I took a tap and slowly with oil proceeded to tap new threads. Almost to the end and the tap breaks. I guess it's case hardened cause drilling it even with new cobalt bits seems futile. I've been at this for most of the day. I can't take the chrome fender rail off because the other bolt holding the fender won't turn. They have the red loctite on them. Funny thing the other side bolt came right out. I know heat would help with the loctite but how do you heat inside the fender without removing the rear wheel or hurting the paint. I just need to know if anyone knows, do they make a better or harder drill bit than the cobalt? I still think drilling the tap out is the best way I just need a drill bit that will cut it. I'm sure I'm not the first one of us to break a tap or easyout that had to be drilled. I appreciate all ideas.
  7. shadow
    I need an upper fork tube for a '93. By the way, anybody know if an upper fork tube from an '86 will work on a '93? I know the fork assembly is a different part # for the 2, but I only need to replace the tube that mounts to the triple tree and slides through the seal. Mine has a scratch and causes the seal to leak.
  8. shadow
    I need an upper fork tube for a 93 1300. The left if it matters. I think the 1200 is the same part #.
  9. shadow
    Well, just wanted to say WE DID IT!!! George mentioned added acc. maybe causing it and well that got me thinking in another line and turned out to be the trunk switch screw had come out and the light was staying on. Thanks for aw ya'll's input and ideas. What never said "all of you allls" like that?? I'm country. Dan
  10. shadow
    I just sent George a message and thought I'd put this out there. Charged Batt.( 2yr old gel) Watched it for a day and held charge good. When I go to install I notice an arc and find that the red cable off the pos. side with the fuse link is causing it. I check and find it reads 5ohms to battery grd. I haven't yet started to trace it futher I'll need to start removing fairing. Any past experiences or thoughts??
  11. shadow
    Thanks guys I'll follow through on this in the a.m. George S got back to me. I had sent him a message about this. He helped me another time on an electrical problem. He's a well of information and he thinks the stator is good too. By the way my work drive is 24mi mostly 60 mph. Thanks again.
  12. shadow
    Went to start my 93 Venture Royale to ride home from work the other day and weak battery. Didn't start and had to boost. Noticed comming home gauge showed right on 12 and seems to me it use to be a little higher. Had to get gas after about 10 mi. and it started right back up. Got home went to testing. Battery showed 12.07v, stator output showed 7.04-7.25ac to ground on all 3 connections @ 3 wire plug. I charged the battery and now shows 12.30 not running and 12.50 running idle @ 700rpm. If I rev to 2500rpm I,m getting close to 13v. I have a pair of driving lights I added a couple of years ago and noticed when I shut them off I pick up about .25- .40v. They are 50 watts each. I had not had any problem at all, before this so I think the lights are ok, and I just got back from a 500mi trip 2 days earlier. I had the battery tested and it showed good-low charge before I charged it. From what I'm seeing on here the stator should be putting out more. And if I understood correctly I'm suppose to test the stator between the connections not to ground??? I'm wondering if the stator is weak, the lights are to much, idle too low (should be 1000rpm?), or something else altogether. Sorry so long here I tried to tell all I know and if anyone can shed more light here I'd appreciate it.
  13. shadow

    parting out '83

    shadow replied to a topic in Watering Hole

    I need the fuel "knob" or "dial" that goes on the square shaft to rotate for on-off-res. All I need is that knob my screw came out and I lost the knob the screw stayed on the floor boards. My email is shadow66@bellsouth.net Thanks Dan
  14. shadow
    I'm looking for the "knob" or "dial" you turn to go from on- off -res. Just the knob that goes on the 1/4 square shaft.
  15. shadow
    Would you happen to have the fuel switch? By that I mean the, I guess you call it a knob, that you turn to go from OFF to ON to RESERVE on the fuel. The screw came out and I found it on on the passenger floor board but the "knob" was gone. Please e-mail me @ shadow66@bellsouth.net Thanks Dan
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