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Showing results for tags 'stator'.
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It's not a Venture but I am hoping someone has experience with these bikes. The problem; The battery goes dead and the engine dies. It happens faster if the headlight is on. The system. 1971 Honda SL125. A 6 volt balanced charging system (rectifier but no regulator). It has a four wire rectifier. Two from the stator, one battery neg and one battery pos. it has a two step 3 wire stator. White stator wire goes to headlight switch and activates second step of stator and is switched to the yellow wire when the headlight is on. The yellow wire, first step, goes to the rectifier. The pink wire goes to the rectifier and is common to the white and yellow. What we have done: We resistance checked the stator. Leg 1-0.3 ohm Leg 2-1.7 ohm. No continuity to ground. AC output out of stator leg 1 7.5 to 9.5 volts AC at rectifier. Leg 2 7.5 to 9.5 volts AC at rectifier. Diode check rectifier front .350 volts to energize, back open on all 4 diodes. Disassemble selenium rectifier and clean all connections just in case. Perform voltage drop on positive and ground wires to the battery. Resolution. The problem is not resolved. We have 6.3 volts 0.1 to 0.9 amp at the battery running and 5.91 volts and falling with -2.1 amp with the headlight on. Questions: Is stator resistance ok? Honda does not publish a spec. Is stator AC output voltage 8-9 volts ok for a 6 volt balanced system? Can the rectifier diodes test good and it still be bad? Any ideas? Plan; Our current plan is to wire in a rectifier from an automobile alternator and see what happens. Anything else we can try? Thanks Mike
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I have been chasing down a charging system problem. On the recommendationof a fellow rider, I replaced the stator. Charging system warning light still flashes. The new gasket that I had put on the side cover when I replaced the stator was leaking, so I went to replace it. Now, I can't get the transmission to shift out of first. I thought that maybe I had spun the shifter linkage when I put the cover back on, so I looked it the linkage and it appears to be ok. Put it all back together again, went to start it. It turned over for a few seconds then stopped. Now the clock reset itself, and when I turn the key to the "on" position, the clock goes dead and nothing is functioning. I am beyong frustrated and have no ideas where to go from here. Is it time to get rid of it?
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Just looking to hear from some of the electrical gurus out here. Monkey Boy's '90 is having a charging issue and I went to check it out today. I did an AC voltage test on the stator and wanted to make sure I did it correctly. Bike running, negative lead of multimeter directly on the negative battery post. Tested each leg of the 3 wires and came up with 4 VAC on 1, 6.1 VAC on the 2nd and 11 VAC on the 3rd. In my head this is a bad stator that needs to be replaced, I'm just wanting to confirm this with more educated electrical brains. The battery was fully charged and installed right before I did the test....give me your opinions. -
I have to enter this thread since my initial thread. I want to respond to some of the comments generated concerning the install of my Buckeye Performance high output stator install. First, I need to qualify something. My son-in-law did the install. He is a 15 year journeyman mechanic both heavy duty and automotive. In other words, he is a professional in his trade not a backyard mechanic. He did not cut out the connector and hard wire the new stator. My new stator will not leak contrary to all those who said it will. My son-in-law used professional grade material from his shop that in his career he has used countless times. In his fifteen years as a mechanic he has installed probably hundreds if not thousands of stators, alternators and every conceivable type of component found in an electrical charging system. He currently works in an agricultural shop working on tractors, combines, and diesel farm trucks of every description. I have been told that the connector is the weak link. That if you don't hard wire the stator your bike may catch fire and burn. Why is that? I have been told to use 12 gauge or even 10 gauge wire when I hard wire the stator. Why would that be? So here is my answer to all of that. I asked my son-in-law if there was a problem with retaining the connector. He said no. He said that $750,000.00 farm tractors putting out 185amps run it all through an identical little plastic connector. My car's charging system and all trucks cars, tractors, combines etc. all run their power systems through identical plastic connectors. I then asked him in his 15 years as a professional mechanic if he has ever in a manual, workshop, training seminar, or classroom ever seen a big red warning that states something to the effect, "WARNING! IF YOU CHANGE THE STATOR IN THIS TRACTOR, CAR, TRUCK, COMBINE, MOTORCYCLE YOU MUST REMOVE ALL CONNECTORS AND HARD WIRE THE NEW STATOR OR YOUR $750,000.00 TRACTOR, CAR, TRUCK, COMBINE OR MOTORCYCLE WILL BLOW UP AND BURN! He has never in his 15 years as a mechanic seen such a warning. Here is the thing. The wire harness on the OEM stator and on the Buckeye Performance high output stator is 14 gauge wire, not 12 or 10 gauge. If you install 12 or 10 gauge wire in your installation then yes, the probability is good that your new stator will possibly burn. My question is on what premise? Because by inserting a larger gauge wire the 14 gauge wire that is still in the circuit cannot now handle the increased amperage flow from the larger diameter wire and it becomes a weak point or choke point that can potentially cause a fire. The only way the connector will be a problem is if the connector has rust or corrosion built up on the inside. Why is that? Because the rust or corrosion acts as an insulator and the increased amperage can cause it to heat up and possibly catch fire and or melt. If the connector is clean, and free of rust or corrosion it will not present a problem. If it is dirty, rusty or corroded then all you have to do is install a new connector. I do not believe that my connector will not burn or melt. Someone mentioned about the position of the connector, that, and I quote, "Well, when these bikes are assembled you can't really tell where the parts might be because they are all assembled differently and there is no way to tell where the components might be placed." When I sat down and thought about that, I thought it was an odd statement unless I totally misunderstood the reason behind the remark. It left me with the impression that these bikes are assembled randomly by 8 year old, blind drug addicts in a chop shop by throwing parts into the air and seeing where they attach themselves to the frame. To each there own. But I had to comment on all the comments about my stator install burning up and/or failing. I don't think it will fail based on what my son-in-law told me and the work he did. If it does fail, I will be sure to post it as a follow up. But I will also post at the end of the riding season so far so good. Chris in Red Deer, Alberta -
Actually I can't take credit for that. My son-in-law who is a journeyman mechanic did it, I just watched. As it turned out he did a totally professional job. We had trouble with one stator bolt that would not break loose. He had to actually take the stator assembly to his shop, weld a nut onto the bolt and then take it off. While he was there he cleaned it all up and then came back and he completed the install. We didn't solder the wires, he re-used the connector. Like I said he did a beautiful job. And I have to thank Brad (Squidley) for his comments as well. I'll be the first to admit I'm not a wrench. If I had attempted to do this solo my wife would have eventually found me curled up in the fetal position on the cold garage floor or sitting underneath my toolbox with a bottle of tequila gripped between my fists mumbling stark, imprecations against Yamaha, the government and realtors but not necessarily in that order. So here's the deal. Yeah so I don't know my Robertson's from my Philips head screw drivers. Who cares? I have a mechanic for a son-in-law. Anyway where was I...Oh yeah, the deal. I have a perfectly good OEM stator out of my 2004 RSV that I want to put in the classifieds and Ebay but I have no idea what it might be worth. Anyone have an idea what it might be worth? Thank you in advance. Chris in Red Deer, Alberta.
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I need a little help or advice on a goldwing problem
GS51 posted a topic in Honda Goldwing Tech Talk
I am looking for some help or advice on an 86 Goldwing 1200 My son got a n 86 Gold wing last spring, yea I know it’s not a Venture but he likes it and the price was right his other bike is a Valcon 1500 and he can’t keep up with me when we ride together and long rides are out on that thing it’s just not comfortable on road trips. Anyway last fall the stator went out so the project over the winter was to replace the stator. Well as you know if you have ever worked on a Goldwing to replace the stator you have to remove the engine. So while we had it out we replaced the clutch and the timing belts rather than waiting on them to break down. Well the stator is replaces and working good that’s another story in its self, and we double and triple checked the timing belts with the engine out and with engine back in place. The clutch works better than it ever did when he had it. After putting it all back together the engine runs good a little back fire but hardly noticeable when sitting still even at high rpm’s but when he tries to ride it there is just no torque when he lets out the clutch in gear it can hardly move itself on level ground any king of a grade and you have to keep slipping the clutch to go. When you release the clutch it stalls out completely, the clutch works fine fully engages and disengages just like it should we even flushed the clutch cylinder and checked to be sure it is working freely all is OK. We had the carb rack out at least 4 times to check for vacuum leaks or linkage problems but nothing. Timing is right on, all the cylinders are getting spark 2 of the cylinders look like they may be running rich (Plugs are wet) but no indication of unburned fuel in the exhaust. We really don’t want to rebuild the carbs without having a real good reason to. We are at the end of our wits and he is ready to scrap it out for parts if we don’t get it running soon. This bike ran good before we had to pull the engine to replace the stator. So any help or suggestions would be helpful Thanks Gary -
ok.....just got back from Daytona.........i had to use my heated gear, gloves, jacket liner, pant liner.....what would cause the charging system to , at one time , to be showing proper voltage ( 13.8) with everything on....then later , voltage down to 12v...and then back up to maybe 13.2 ,,etc...and i'm not talking about the thermostat cycling off and on.....if i turned of the pants and jacket, the voltage would go to normal......gerbing heated clothes..and i have the updated stator.........the way i understand the stator, is that it's basically has "3 phases "...so , one could be acting up ?......what else...
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Hi, I purchased a high output stator from Buckeye Performance and have been reading the threads both here and the step-by on the Venturers.org site and have a couple of questions. In a thread on the HOS install someone said this: Basicly just remove both Case Covers on left side of engine. ( You have to remove the aft cover also, to access the Wireing bundles) After cover is off, Its just a few small bolts, to change the Unit. The one sticking point is the Gasket that Seals the 3 large wires from the Stator, and the 5 small wires from the " Ignition Pick Up Coils " Be sure to order New Gaskets, for the Case Covers !!!! ( Both of them ) Also, the Lower Bolt, on the Aft Cover, has a Brass Crush Washer, that makes an Oil Seal. Its advisable to order a few of those and keep on hand. In the step by step photos on the Venturers.org site it looks like someone is taking the exhaust apart and considerably more is involved than removing a few side covers. Am I missing something here? Do you have to drain the oil from the bike in order to instal/replace the stator? If anyone could help clarify this for me and or give me some additional information it would be much appreciated. Thank you in advance. Chris in Red Deer, Alberta
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1983 XVZ12TK About 2 months ago I had to replace my stator because I thought I was having charging issues. I carefully took the cover off taking note of how each of the gears were positioned and then put each one of them exactly as before. Replaced stator, oil, gasket. After reassembly i hooked up the battery and tried to start the bike. Immediately the starter turned over but before the bike started one of the gears disengaged with a gear grinding. I can start the bike but if it doesn't kick off right away the gear disengages. I have taken it back apart 3 times. I even have taken apart one of my parts bike to compare the two thinking I reversed a gear or over looked something. But I can not find any way any of the gears could be installed wrong, I then swapped the starter thinking that maybe the starter was getting ready to bite the dust but the starter that worked perfect of the parts bike does the exact same thing. When the starter spins the motor everything sounds normal. There is no binding or grinding. Has anyone ever made this error? Any ideas on what I have done wrong. I have spent over 30 hours taking it apart, putting it together over and over and I have had it. I love this bike but have to get this fixed. I am beyond the point of spending too much time and $$ .If I can not fix it soon I am either selling or going to take a LONG and expensive road trip to find a reputable tech that knows how to work on this bike. There are no reliable mechanics that are WILLING to work on a bike this age. Add the fact that something is wrong after I worked on it won't help them jump at the opportunity to fix it. Any help is appreciated. PLEASE SOMEONE HELP!!! Chris -
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I have a 1990 VR with 96K miles on it. Been a GREAT bke! Recently had the stator go out. During my research here for threads on replacement ideas I came upon a discussion about replacing the R/R whenever you replace the stator. From reading these posts I concluded I should also replace the R/R. Just for good insurance if for no other reason. Question: Is there any way I can get in on the group buy deal for one of those Shindengen FHO12AA regulator / rectifiers ? Does any one have an extra one they would part with ? I can find them else where but you guys worked the best deal I can find. GREAT job ! Thanks for the help. Red Baron -
Anybody ever have a new stator put in, the mechanic breaks something, and then you have to pay for it???
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I have a friend who has an 83 and he did some repair work on it. Now - when he pulls on the clutch lever it won't move - but when he loosens the bleeder - it will. He also can't get it to shift even into Neutral. I know he had to replace the stator cover. Any suggestions.
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I'm sure it's been mentioned somewhere here many times, but when I 'searched' nothing jumped out. On my 89, I'm in the process of changing my alternator stator (and my starter drive clutch, and my rear wheel bearings and my....). I think that the last time I did it (on my 83) I sealed the leads in the grommet and the grommet in the case with RTV. Is there anything better to use, or does everybody still use RTV? Thanks, Frank
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I have a friend who needs a left side crankcase cover for his 83 Venture. Anyone have one lying around? Email me at mrkyoung@gmail.com. thanks! The stator cover!!!
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I had the two side lamps installed when I bought my rstd new. they have a little toggle switch to turn them on and off. I thought they either stayed on all the time, or came on only on low beam. Is there any particular way these lamps are supposed to be used? or is it simply a matter of personal preference? I must admit, I can't tell that much difference as far as better visability when they're on, but maybe that's just because they're not aimed right. Another question I had was concerning the stator output capacity. I know the older Goldwings came from the factory pretty much at their peak handling capcaity, and you had to be careful about adding on additional light accessories. I was just wondering if the same was true for these yamahas? Thanks for your help. bill -
I just dont seem to be having any luck this year. I finally got the new brakes working. Talk about a nightmare but we wont get into that. The bike has been in the air for about 3 weeks now while I change the rear diff, Rear shock to a Works and add the R1 brakes. Finally I got to test drive it tonight and barely made it down the block and there is a hell of a rattle and rubbing noise under the stator cover. Now it came on all of a sudden and I dont have a explaination. Last year I added a High output stator but that was a year ago. I havent taken off the cover yet so Im just looking for some Ideas and things to look for. PS if I put a screwdriver against that cover I can actually feel the hitting. What do you think? -
Okay, The bike has 28k on it and it's an '87 royale. Looks great. rebuilt carbs. But now the problem is the darn thing has left me stranded 3 times. I'm seeing voltage gauge running typical range (highest is 14v read on handheld meter) . However, after an hour of driving or so...fan running...etc. hot day...all of a sudden the voltmeter shows no charging (reading 12 v) no matter the rpm, immediate battery drain, fuel pump dies, and I roll into a shady spot to sit for awhile until the bike cools and I know i can start it without the fan coming on. Once it starts, runs fine for some time then it does it again. On a 80 degree day it's not happening. Stator checked out 55 vac across the board, and .7 ohms. when it's running good. Rectifier seems okay, but the manual really isn't clear on the test points. After reading similar stories, (except for the intermittent part) I decided to replace the stator. And if it's not the problem, well, at least now it's something I won't have to worry about. And no, I haven't had the opportunity to run electrical checks when the bike died. which would have been more telling. Now, I have checked and cleaned some grounds, but being an old car mechanic I also think that the main symptom of it only happening after bike gets hot and pulling heavier load with fan, tells me it could be stator wiring breaking down under load and heat, and not a bad ground, which I would think would be more of a consistent problem, and not typically heat related. I also checked continuity of pos / neg from rectifier to frame/battery and it's good. Any suggestions on what else this could be? thanks I'm taking my license road test this friday, so I need to ge this this fixed NOW. LOL.
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So, since I'm new and don't know any better, could someone tell me the difference between the 1200 and 1300 carb. diaphragms? Are they different in size or length or maybe they prefer chicken to steak. It looks like there is no difference to me, but this is relatively new to me. I've had this bike for 3 to 4 years and I love it, but I can't bring my self to pay the ridiculous price for some yahoo to fix. I'm pretty handy and had to replace the stator my self three months after I got it...twice. I'm sure you guys (and gals) covered this already and I don't wanna be a bother bringing up old news but the season is about to really get under way here in Wisconsin and I wanna be out there a little earlier this year. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
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I have a 83 VR with an 86 motor (previous owner changed motor, instead of fixing 2nd gear) and have bought a heavy duty stator and regulator/rectifier from Buckeye Perf. and installed the stator OK and works good, but then noticed that the instructions for the R/R said to cut off the brown wire in the wiring harness and discard it. The R/R is a knockoff and not a Yama part. I am wondering what the brown wire is used for and if I can cut it off without any bad effects. Can I safely cut and discard this brown wire? Electrical wiring diagrams are just gibberish to me, so they are no help. I know enough to get in trouble and electrocute myself. The Service Manager at the local bike shop said it was OK to cut it off, but he didn't sound like he knew what he was talking about. He didn't even ask what year or model bike I had. I just told him I had an older VR. The bike has been sitting in the back of my garage, since last fall, because of overheating problems, and not charging. Put the new stator in, in the fall and then lost interest because of the overheating problem. I have a GW, so there was no hurry to fix it. If I can get the R/R unit in and working, I might work on the overheating problem (long story) and if I can't, then I will part out the bike over the summer. I have owned this bike for three years, but have only ridden it sporadically because of the overheating problem and now the electrical problem. Thanks for any help. Jim -
1ST Gen Replacement Stator ? Who has the Source, and part number for the Aftermarket upgraded STATOR for the 1st Gen Bikes, I lost the link---
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Recently recieved the new stator from Buckeye Performance. Is there a thread on information with step by step directions with pics on the removal of the stock stator and the installation of the new stator? I've been searching, but unable to find anything. Any help is most grateful. -
i did a search, but i didn't find the information i was looking for, specifically, does anyone have an idea of how many watts at what rpms the stock stator puts out for the mk2s? anyone have any experence with any of the aftermarket "higher output" stators? it's winter and i need something to do, so of course i'm looking at farkles!
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http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=260367822392&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWAX%3AIT Basically is this a even better version of the upgraded stator or is that all marketing hype and I should get the one from one of the sources listed here? I'm spoiling the bike now that I have a new job. I figure that if I have it apart, I might as well upgrade the stator as I am upgrading the Voltage Reg so I dont have to worry about it on the road this spring and summer... -
Well it looks like I need a larger stator..... I only have the yamaha passing lamps and a set of Motolights and the bike cant handle it... Drains the battery.... if I turn off the 55 watt Moto lights I could save the 8.3 amps... but I bought them to be seen....... I was going to pull the plug on the carb heaters, but this is wisconsin......I ride until it snows...never too cold with the buckeye stator I hope to have more than enough power -
Hi Guys, Could someone tell me if a stator from a V max engine will fit a 1990 XVZ1300 Venture Royale ?. I've been told that it does, just wanted to check. Also any tips or instructions on the process of changing the stator out, as I don't have a manual of any kind with my bike, do I need any special tools to get the flywheel off/out. Thanks Waz
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