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Showing results for tags 'light'.
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Started when I switched dash lights out with LEDs. Suspect issue always there, but unseen with incandescent dash bulbs. I noticed every time I shifted up or down, any gear, neutral light would illuminate for just a fraction of a second. I was at first thinking mechanical, (play in shift shaft against neutral switch) as it seemed to happen just as clutch was re-engaging. Then I remembered that there was a clutch lever switch in the neutral cutout starting circuit. After playing with clutch lever some more, I believe the issue is in this electrical circuit. Does not matter if I shift or not, nor how much I may feather the clutch, always lights at same point just before clutch lever at full release (suspect point for lever switch). Also always just a fraction of a second flash, even if I play aroung the spot of the lever switch, I can not get neutral to stay lit for any more than a flash, unless in neutral of course. Not sure what exactly is happening in the circuit, but as I found out with the RLU dash light, the new LED bulbs will illuminate full bright with less than 2volts stray voltage. Not calling it a problem, and not likely worth time to figure out and correct/bypass/mod..etc. Just interesting fluke from using LEDs.
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I just picked up my venture not too long ago and am still in the process of getting my motorcycle license and have been doing some work on the bike since I got it. Got a couple of problems that I can't figure out though. The gas guage only works when the bike is near completely full or near empty but nowhere in between, anybody have any ideas why? Also the light on the computer always says the kickstand is down even when it isn't. If I actually put the kickstand down while it is in gear it will run horrible so it is obviously getting the signal so I don't know why the light doesn't go off. The guy that had it before me said they changed the actual sensor that is attached to the kickstand so I don't think it is that but I can't be sure. Once again, if anyone has any ideas, I would greatly appreciate it. I am new and you have made me feel very welcome and I greatly appreciate it, the tech articles have helped me alot so far, and it feels good to be part of such a tight knit group. Thanks again Brian
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Now and then I see"low fuel light" mentioned. I have a 1999 venture with no such creature. I even walked once and nothing. Do all ventures have them or does mine just not work. If mine doesn't work, does anyone have any ideas where I might start to get one. Thanks Richard
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Ok,here is my CMS mod. Due to failed tail light I tracked problem to the CMS and decided to complete the mod I had been planning to do... I kept all high,low,tail,brake current running thru the CMS per stock(had considered bypassing wiring external CMS but trying to not modify stock wiring),but wanted to keep the fail indicators working, but change to LED lighting that would cause fail indicators to turn on. So instead of the fail indicators being activated by the reed switches-I extended the reed switch wiring external the CMS for external input 1st pic the corrosion causing my tail light problem First removed all 4 coils and reed switches second drilled oversize holes for 14ga solid copper wire where the coils were third installed 24ga solid telco wire in place of the reed switches then I mounted canabilized RJ11 phone jack to rear cover of CMS, and connected telco wire to RJ11 with screws mounted on rear side of CMS cover 2nd pic schematic of CMS input circuits for these 4 items and modification next 4 pics removed coils and drilled holes next 2 pics RJ11 jack install last pic I sealed board with finger nail polish to prevent future corrosion Simple phone extension cord plugged into RJ11 brings wiring where needed for future direct light monitoring, and allows easy disconnect for future dash removal Now I need to apply a frame ground to keep the warning lights off- easy to build future circuit to open frame ground during a failure of direct light monitoring circuit of hi,low,tail,brake. I also replaced all dash indicators with LEDs from superbrightleds.com found I had to reinstall 1 158 back into reserve light warning, due to small current always on lights up LED full. I put in blue back lights, and white warning lights. Only problem is Green neutral looks blue. Would suggest green LED here. All tested and works as advertised.
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I had the pleasure to work on Jayceesfolly's 89'VR over the winter and we came up with an unusual but effective way to add some additional light to the rear of his bike. The bike came to my "little shop by the creek" missing the right side helmet lock. Jim expressed an interest in getting a lot more light during braking and was not nearly as interested in replacing the helmet lock. I removed the left side helmet lock, and fabbed up a bracket that was mounted on the two "tabs" that held the helmet locks. As you can see in the pics, I used a light bar that has found a home on MANY Second Gen. Motorcycles, as a matter of fact, this particular light bar was slated to be installed on a Second Gen. later this month. I have since had to order another one for the owner. Both Jim and I were pleased at the results, and the light output from this light bar far surpasses the original tail light. So if you can live without your helmet locks, this is an excellent way to add a considerable amount of light for BOTH running lights and brake lights on the rear of a First Gen. PLUS, if you did your shopping for an LED light bar at Maint. Day this year, (with all the Second Gen. bikes that attend) you could add this light bat to your First Gen. for only a few dollars! Enjoy the pics. If you have questions, feel free to PM me, Earl -
I took off work yesterday at 3pm and stopped by the house and picked up my lady Linda, who had come over for a visit, and we took off down thru the country on one of those rides you dream about during the winter. I started off in a light jacket and ended up putting shorts on. The scenery, with all the budding trees and flowers was absolutely beautiful, especially with the clear air and the mountains all around us. At one point we saw 82º on the bike thermometer. It was one of those light traffic, bike running real good days along country back roads that are just made for easy riding and talking and sharing thoughts about the upcoming summer and camping and traveling on the bike. We snaked along roads that ran beside rivers that went from glistening pools to fast running white water. We saw fields of grass that are just beginning to get that bright green that is only in the early spring. I really feel fortunate to live in this part of the country where the weather is more moderate and people are so friendly. It is rare that when stopped that someone doesn't have something friendly to say, especially when you are on a motorcycle. I noticed that when I pulled the bike back into the garage that we had put 125 miles on it just to run out and get something to eat. RandyA
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While riding today I noticed the engine light came on and went off. Turned key off and restarted light didn' t come back on for 10miles then did it again.Could someone help.
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A while back I was on about trying to get some form of 4.5" LED highway lights working on this bike, going through the fiasco of the rip off artists with their shyte bulbs, and finally on the Custom Dynamics. But no matter what was installed, horrible RF interference was heard through the bike's radio and audio system.. so much to make the sound system on the bike useless, thus making the LED lights unusable.. Well I'm happy to announce that I managed to sort it out and got the LED highway lights on the bike and without any radio interference at all.. (I don't use CB personally so can't say how it works on that, sorry) I was chatting with the nice people at http://www.customled.com about some other project and then posed the question to them if they could come up with a solution or if they made their own.. Though they said they might not be able to build another new light like this, they did come up with a probably fix to try out and wouldn't you know it.. it works! And simple.. I should have thought of it before.. but didn't.. grr Simple aluminum foil wrapped around the back of the light itself! that's all.. I thought it couldn't be THAT simple.. so I grabbed a couple sheets of aluminum foil and tested it out myself.. wow.. no kidding.. took the bike out for a ride, scanned up and down the channels and not a buzz from the lights. I rode wit the lights off until I heard a weak channel and then turned them on, expecting them to down out the weak channel but nothing.. the channel didn't drown out in a hiss or buzz.. wow.. YAY.. Working LED highway lights! Simple way to do it is to get two layers of a foil around the back of the light, and pinch it towards the front of the light (looks like a hershey kiss) so that you can mount it back into the light fixture. Obviously you'll have to make sure the electrical connectors aren't able to make contact with the metal or you'll have a short.. once the light is attached and done up, you can pull away at the a foil pinched out the front, trimming it with a knife of need be.. Simple as that.. However, to pretty it up I have some aluminum deck tape (used for aircraft firewall application) that should do the same job and make the mounting of the lights easier.. I just have a buckshee set up now for the testing. But it works! Now once I have the Moon Shinez signal lights to flash normally, bobs your uncle.. -
Well I am sure that you all will tire of my questions before long but I have a few more here for you. First The head light, sometimes the low beam works and sometimes it don't. Thought it was the start button but have gone through that with the help of Dingy's thread on it and still have the problem. I have power at the switch all the time(when not pressing the starter) but not all the time at the light. Second one here, it had a full tank of acient gas (paint thinner now) that I was able to get most siphoned out, but there is about 1/2 gallon that I just cant get to. Will a can of sea-foam put in with fresh gas be OK? Third, I have seen it posted to relocate the TCI to a more accessible spot for future reasons, however when I set it up above the battery the cover will not go on. Can I mount it in the fairing? Fourth, I found at Oriellies a 12 spot spade fuse box, my current one has 6 (I believe) Should I stay with a smaller one or can the 12 spot one work (hope so it is being discontinued and is only $10). I think that is about it for now. Thank You, Shaun -
...a front stock flasher bar (blinker/marker). Does any who may have taken one off for a light bar have it laying around collecting dust. Water got into the left end of mine and everything is rusted and corroded. I had to destroy it to get the bulb out. Two of the three wires broke loose from the base where the light fits in. I can buy from from Yamaha but thought I would ask here first.
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Some of you have installed a water temp guage, and the question is where did you install the sensor?? Are there two sensors.?? One to power the warning light and another to kick in the fan like on the 1stGen?? And if so, can the warning light sensor be swapped out for a guage sensor??
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I have a 2004 Midnight Royal Star Venture and I want to purchase the Yamaha Passing light kit but I want the halogen lights opposed to the sealed beams. I have been correspondence with one of the suppliers and there is some doubt whether the halegon lights mount on the same light bar as the sealed beams light do. Has anyone been thru this as I don't want to order and get the wrong ones. The numbers separately are - lamp bar STR-4XY35-40-10 and the halegon lights are STR-4NK35-10-01. Can someone please verify this set up is compatible? Also where is the best place to purchase......I live in Canada. Thanks
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I have had an intermittent problem with the HID light fron Canadian Cruiser Customizing since Jan. I have been in contact with Scott over there and while he has returned my emails right away there has been no solution. I followed all of his recommendations and initially the problem went away. The other night the light didnt work at 2 am and I depended on my LED driving lights to get home. In our first conversation Scott said its possible the ballast is bad. I raised that issue again with him this time and requested the ballast be replaced under the remaining warranty, something I requested back in Jan. He said its either bad or good and I could send it back to him for testing.He also said the wiring could be pulled too tight. Told him that the shipping cost alone back and forth would almost justify buying a new ballast. I said that it was installed properly, no stretched connections and that I knew what I was doing, in a nutshell. I also said it almost sounds like your trying to not honor the warranty. This was Sat. Like I said, he always responded within a few minutes. Its now 2 days and no response. While I hope I didnt hurt his feelings I dont enjoy going lightless at night, when I do most of my riding.
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I was on Adventure Rider (ADVRider) and came across this post, where a fellah sells LED spot/flood lights. (Vendor Link) They seem very bright and he has run them on his off road bike, so they would seem durable. I'm mulling over installing them off the front brake mount, to be on only when I have high beams on. Or maybe the 10w on all the time, and the 24w with the high beam. The photos through page 2 on ADVRider are pretty impressive. The other place I've wanted to mount aux lights are on the mirrors, but I am not sure how to do that. Maybe some PIAA HIDs would go there... or these. Just another option for y'all. Dave
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on 83. Did not notice when last was working (maybe last year), but just finished fuse upgrade and added running/fog light and stebil horn. Running tail light works. Also added 4 relays 1. headlight and acc bypass ignition key switch(at fuse panel){to limit load on key switch} 2. fog light 3. horn 4. spare, not used at this time checked foot brake switch and have 12v on1 side, and 12v on other side when either foot or handle brake applied. 0v when switch normal. CMS no indication of problem. pulled and replaced both brake bulbs, no change removed truck and got to rear 3 wire connector at brake light 12v on blue(running) 12v on yellow(brake) when brake applied//??4v when brake off?? good ground on black temp jumpered power to yellow side of connector and bulbs worked(sockets ok) semi perm installed jumper from rear brake switch output to yellow at brake housing now all works ok, but have CMS fault(tail lts) only when brake applied Thinking lack of current(amps) to drive brake lights due to corrosion or partial open even though I have 12v at brake housing. Unsure why I have 4v when brake off(corrosion )? Probably need to pull seat (if I can remember how) and check underseat harness, but I am suspecting problem with the CMS(such a pain to pull dash) any other ideas?
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Started to install the passing lamp light bar on my 05 RSTD and noticed that the Headlamp bucket has a bracket that attaches to the stock light bar but there isn't any means to support the HL bucket on the new light bar..... What am I missing..?? Thanks for your help. -
Tonight as I left work at 2 AM my HID went out. I didnt notice it right away until I hit a real dark stretch of road. It was then I realized that I was riding with only those dreaded LED driving lights. I cant believe how much illumination those LEDs put out. It was almost like riding with a stock headlight. I saw a nice clear band of light in front of me. Those LEDS really lit up the road. As far as the HID headlight goes, this has happened a few times before. I sent Canadian Cruiser Customizing an email and requested a replacement ballast since its still under warranty. Ill see what response I get. I cant have that light go out on me at night any more.
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Not 100% sure of this, but it seems as it's been the neutral switch all along! Just conducts enough to light the dash but not enough to energise the sidestand relay! All this time it has been on the sidestandwith the neutral light on, but no spark. In order to change the vacuum lines and carb mounts I've had it on the center stand. Finally got done with all that stuff and decided to do some serious electricaql troubleshooting. Measuerd the resistance on the neutral switch to ground and found about 20 ohms or so. Reminded me of when my kickstaqnd switch went out, wasn't open, but had around 6-8 ohms, enough to kill the starting circuit. Soooo, long story short, put the kickstand up, used the clutch to start, and within 30 seconds it was running!! Very rough, but runing. I wonder if 2-3 year old gas has anything to do with it?!!? It has new plugs but they may be somewhat fouled out already. A full tank of High test and a can of seafoam should do something, followed by new plugs again!
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I got out of work last night , and much to my dismay , my dash and headlights were not working. I did have my newly in stalled driving lights so I was able to limp home. The driving lights were not exactly adjusted right but I did get to see the tops of all the trees on the way home. This morning I checked the fuses and not being too electrial inclined ,I decided to check our website before I did any major damage to my bike. Sure enough, the first forum on 1st Gen light problems suggested WD-40 in the ignition switch. I tried it an now have my headlights and dash lights back This is the best website I use , and the members are the best at helping others and sharing their knowledge. -
Had a signal dynamics back off brake light flasher install since last august, now it won't flash, wired to the led bar, removed it wired it into the stock brake light, no flash, wired it into both, no flash, took it up to the "factory" here in FL, 10 miles away, they were VERY helpful, talked to the owner/engineer, he tested it and gave it back, rewired it including a resistor he provided, no flash, took it back, they tested it on several heavy and light load light, worked perfectly, gave it back, "incompatable maybe" he said...can't seem to make it work on my bike, he did give me a 10 cent tour of their place, very cool, he said that could build all their products over seas but they don't to keep jobs over here, if you are looking for cool products, check them out, "signal dynamics"....any ideas what to do now?
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Went on a nice ride from Colorado Springs to Castle Rock and back with my wife today. It was still a little chilly in the morning but afternoon wasn't too bad (except through the higher country). But we didn't need any chaps or overly heavy garments, so I count that good. Two issues I did have. 1. First time using my JM headsets...they are the original pair I got from previous owner. They seem to work well (although had to modify helmet because they were so think they pressed against my ears). The only issues is when I turn the IC up loud enough to hear well, I pick up so much wind noise it's crazy. I guess it's wind noise because I don't hear it when stopped but when going highway speeds it sounds like white noise... 2. Something's wrong with my cruise control. I turn it on, hit the set button let go of gas and it will drop 5-10 mph before trying to engage. Then it will attempt to engage but as soon as it does, it drops out of cc and the Res light comes on...I can click on the Resume button and the Res light starts to blink, but once again, as soon as I feel the cc start to kick in, it drops back out of cruise and the Res light comes on solid again...not sure what's going on...I tried it when I first got the bike from PO 6 months ago but haven't really used it since then...
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Got a strange one here, at least to me anyway. A few of months ago one of the fog lights on my bike would be slow to start when turned on while the other one lit immediately. After a few weeks the slow light stopped working. As a test I replaced it with a spare light and it worked. Assumed it was just a faulty bulb and began using the spare rather than find the problem with the original one. Fast forward a couple of months and that spare light started getting slow to start too and after a week or so it also stopped working. Today I checked the voltage across the two supply connections which was about 13.5 at an idle. Plugged one of the connections back into the light and checked the voltage across the supply line and the light line and it was the same 13.5. Seems to me power at the supply line but no light would indicate a burnt out bulb or some other internal circuit issue. If the bulb were burnt out there should have been no voltage indicated with the second test. Didn't have time to open the light up to check further. What am I missing? The bulbs used are yellow H3's which are not readily available around here. I could try a white H3 but I'm going to order a set of HD H3 bulbs and give them a try so I didn't want to pay for a bulb that would not see much use.
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Submitted by Tony Dathan. Problem: One of the common complaints about the Yamaha passing light kit for the RSV is that it mounts so close to the fairing that removing the fairing becomes very difficult requiring one to either remove or loosen the passing light bracket. Installation: When the bracket arrives you will need 2 3/8" NC x 3/4" long bolts and lock washers. I got these at Home Depot for under two bucks. Undo your light bar. Use the 8mm bolts to fasten the bracket where the light bar was and then using the 3/8" bolts bolt the light bar to the bracket. Most of us that have the bracket can now split the fairing without touching the light bar or at least just loosening it a few turns. Might depend on the actual lights you have. Basically you undo the light bar, put the bracket where the bar was, then mount the light bar to the bracket! How to get one: You can contact me at dathan@shaw.ca The price at this time is $27.50 USD. That includes the postage as well! The following are some shots I've taken in the past! #5 shows the clearance between the back of the light and the fairing. This started as a way of my being able to clean between the light and the fairing. Taking the fairing off without touching the light bar was just a huge bonus! Attached Thumbnails Sorry to bring this up again, but, I can't find these bolts at Home Depot or anywhere else. Must they be this exact size? The salesman I spoke with didn't know what NC was. I don't either. And is it two & three eighths by three quarters or the quantity 2 of size three eighths by three quarters. Could the NC mean non-corrosive, i.e., stainless steel? Finally, what do the numbers refer to? As you can see, I'm not too mechanical. Thanks in advance for being gentle. LOL
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I am looking to add some light to the back end of my bike as it is not very bright at night with stock lighting. I am wanting to change the signal lights to L.E.D. running lights with the signal being priority when needed and possibly the tail light itself. I already have a L.E.D brake/running light bar to add just under the trunk but want more and wondering where I can find these in a simple aftermarket application or if there isn't one then how. I have some time as it will be a couple of months before our winter is done. -
I want to install a wing on my trunk. Does any one know where I can get one. I'm looking for one that has the brake light in it. I need it for a 2nd gen. Thanks, Ken:fingers-crossed-emo
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