Search the Community
Showing results for tags 'fuse'.
-
After installing my highway lights, the fuse got so hot after about 2 hours of riding that it literally melted the solder right off the caps. That cheap plastic fuse holder is total junk. I cracked the fairing open, re-routed the wires to the opening under the triple tree in the back of the inside fairing, replaced the stock fuse with a weatherproof mini AGM 10 amp fuse, and was able to tuck the whole thing under the tank where it is totally accessible without having to split the fairing again. What a pain, but it beats the alternative. That stock in-line plastic fuse holder and old style fuse just aren't designed to handle the current I guess. The new one is working fine, and doesn't get warm at all to the touch. -
Several months ago I added the Stebel electric 130db horns. I wired them thru a relay. I can hear and feel the relay clicking. So 1st looking for the horn fuse. Any thoughts welcome.
-
I bought the Alumna Trailer from a forum member here and I proceeded to do the wiring after many posts read and a few pm's.... Changed the 5 pin round on the Alumna over to a 5 pin flat and same for RSV...Decided to do wiring at the tail light because of existing wiring under seat for the lightbar under the trunk (not a lot of room left)...Wired her up and everything work..... After a couple of days gone by I have my Bud over to show off my new toy....Turn the bike on...Start the bike....Reach under the fender near the hitch...grab the bike end of five pin connection and I happen to "touch" in the the bottom of the fender while reaching for the trailer end of the connection and ":puzzled:"...I blow the 15amp fuse for the lights....Replace the fuse and do this again ON PURPOSE and "same thing"....I replace the fuse....being more careful not to touch the bike end to anything and hook up the trailer and ALL IS WELL.... Question: Before I go into the rear light assembly and wire...What should I check first. I do not really want to go through everything again if I can avoid it.... TKS... Long Tall Lynchburg, VA:fingers crossed:
-
Im still working on a buddys 99 venture. Im trying to locate the fuse for the acc socket in the fairing. The book says lower right. have not been able to find it. Did they put that in the fairing? -
Hey all, My buddy just bought an 08 Venture. His radio won't turn on. If he puts the fuse in the back light lights up but never shuts off. Any ideas? Thanks T.C.
-
i am going to replace the old "glass fuse" block with spade type fuses. my question is "are all circuits energized by one main positive wire, or are there different power inputs from other circuits, that energize a certain fuse"? just jt:confused24:
-
I am going to replace the glass fuses with the ATC blade type set-up on my '84. With all the writeups here, I think I can tackle the issue. My question is, What about the top (towards the front of the bike) connection. I understand that this is called a fusable link. Can I hook this to a fuse and if so, what size should I use? It is finally getting warm enough here to work in an unheated garage and I would like to get the bike ready to ride. Thanks, Dave
-
In my dark storage area I cross jumped my 2003 Midnight Venture. The main fuse blew the instant I touched the terminal. I changed the 30A fuse and installed a new battery.I now have no audio at all not even a display. Now my clock and trip meters work only when the ignition is on. When I stop and restart the engine the trips are at zero and the clock is at 12:00. The audio doesn't work with the key in any position, I can't find any bad fuses. I'm so bummed I can't blame somebody for my carelessness. This is my third Venture '88, '99, '03, I feel so guilty, I've hurt the best scooter I've ever had. Thanks for any help, David
-
I've got one for you electrically inclined. My cousin's 07 RSV ( with 7000 miles on it) would not start. Let me give you the symptoms. When he turned the key on, the lights came on, the speedometer, gas gauge, everything came up and was doing its thing like its supposed to. When he hit the start button, everything goes dead. Well, he thought it was the 30 amp main fuse cause everything went dead. He pulled the fuse, installed another one and it cranked right up. Okay, this happened a couple of more times, so he ohmed the fuse and it was okay. So, it hadn't been blowing the fuse, the fuse is good, but the only way he can get it to start is pull the main fuse, like its resetting something, put the fuse back in, and then it will start. Its still under warranty and he's going to try to get it into the dealer next week, but I thought I'd run it by you all and see what ya thought. When he takes it to the dealer, I'll let everyone know what they find out. Thanks, Glenn
-
My cousin's 07 RSV keeps blowing the main fuse (30-AMP). Any ideas why it may be doing this? Never had that problem with mine, nor have heard of it before. Thanks in advance Glenn
-
My 1986 will burn out the tail light fuse when the handlebars are turned all the way to the right with the side stand up.It won't happen with the side stand down.Any ideas of what is happening?Thanks for any help.
-
ok is it earl who makes the fuse box thats way better then this old piece of crap? i noticed my headlight going off and on tonight.. just got home went to check the fuse. and the darn thing broke off one of them tabs. also some of the others are going to go soon. it is 26 years old something has to give. but in my honest opion. it started out as a piece of junk. im not going to buy another one off fleabay. if someone invented a better one.. so if its here please let me know.. i dont want to cut and splice wires to make the headlight work. i guess i could hook a an inline fuse if i knew what type?
-
I have had my Computerized Monitoring fuse blow twice in the last couple of days.it knocks out everything fuel gauge, clock, tach. it has the old fuse box but it looks like new. back is not worn. fuses fit nice and snug. the box list that as a 15 amp fuse. any thoughts from anyone at what to look at ??? Thanks Mike -
so I got the modified headlight system (with the two bulbs) and i am installing this, aside from some broken tabs which needed fixing I get the thing in, tried a different RSL and re-soldered the CMU to get the high beam working. so far so good! I'm getting ready to install the other half of the front fairing when I discover the tail light, brake light and all my running lights are out (they are all LEDs) Zip, zilch, nada. first thought it was a busted fuse, not! The tail light fuse does get hotter then a firecracker though and next thing I know I look up and I have smoke coming from the CMU:headache:. there are four wrapped coils on the back and the TOP one on the left (fuel gauge side) has the clear coating melted off. any suggestions as to what might have happened? any ideas as to how to resolve this? anyone have a spare, working CMU laying around that they might want to part with? Do you deliver and can you do so today Thanks! -
Well, I got the bug to work on my VR this past weekend. The PO had let some things go and I thought it was time to correct them (and the wife was out of town at her sister's ) Issues: Front tire worn out Front Springs sagging and bottoming out unless I had max air pressure in the shocks Noticeable stumble when accelerating past 3500 rpm Headlight a little dim Too quiet (ok not an issue but something I wanted to change) Original fuse box with glass fuses (scary) First on the list was a new front tire and while I was there I replaced the springs with a progressive set from Skydoc. I also changed out the fork oil. Is this stuff supposed to be dark gray/black? The new Yamaha 10 wt fork oil was clear. Man! what a difference 1 hour worth of work can make, no more bottoming out and the bike tracks much truer through curves; no more pogo stick effect....wooottt. Now the stumble had me concerned so I went out and bought some Sea Foam and promptly added a healthy dose to the system. I also decided to replace the plug wires and plugs. Not as easy as replacing plugs on the wife's Jeep Commander but not as hard as the Vette so it took me about 30 minutes to complete. Well all I can say is the stumble is gone and the bike definately idles smoother (albeit a little low ~400 rpm). I think I need to service the carbs but I am going to wait on an area expert (Skydoc) before I dive into that tangle of tubes and such. Fixed the headlight by replacing the bulb with a Silverstar Xtra 9003 H4. I am amazed at the improvement made. Much better pattern and brighter white light even the low beam setting is much better. The mufflers were modified by cutting off the turn-downs and cutting out the end baffle. I left the inner baffle and I have to say I really enjoy the sound; not at all obnoxious but mellow and very authoriative. Very similiar to the low end growl of a Ducati (at least to me) but smoother. I may have the turn-downs welded back into place but right now I am enjoying it. Now the fuse box is still a work in progress but suffice it to say the glass fuses are history and in their place is are ATC fuses that light up when blown (pretty handy if trying to track down a blown fuse at night). I still need to fab up a holder but at least all the circuits are protected. All in all, a weekend well spent and the bike rides like a new machine. Heck it only has 29K miles on it and I hope to take it 100k more. -
Ok, this is pretty much a story of cause and effect. Earl and Dano know what happend but now I think I can explain why it happend. About a week ago I had an electrical problem. Lost my charging system out on a ride. Voltage was dropping like a rock but I was able to get it back home before I lost power. (thank you DEKA AGM) When I got home I saw smoke coming out from the left side by the swing arm. Well, that is where the R/R is mounted. Tried to start the bike again in the garage and blew the main fuse. Long story short....tested the stator, a 2 year old Buckeye upgrade, looked for shorts in the wiring and found none. Replaced the main fuse and tested the system. Looked like everything else was fine. Pulled the R/R I installed about 3 years ago. It was an aftermarket unit, (not the upgrade Shindengen upgrade), and it pretty much started to fall apart as I removed it. As you can see from the pics it is more square and thicker than the OEM unit so I had to fab up a new mounting bracket to hold it in place. That was where I went wrong. I lost my main fuse because the R/R shorted to ground. On a three year old quality unit....why? Not supposed to happen. Looking at all the pieces now I'm pretty sure I know what happened. The new fabbed up mounting bracket left the new R/R hanging a bit lower than the OEM unit. I had room at the time and had no reason to be concerned about it. BUT.....about a year later I bought a new set of MAC pipes and installed them. Still had room for clearance on the R/R but it was closer to the MAC's than it was with the stock pipes. About 3/8 of an inch was all I had. And these things get warm all by themselves. Didn't need to add to that. SO.... when I pulled the R/R off I saw the bottom section of the rubber electronics potting was burned and brittle. Pieces came off in my hand as I removed it. That was the section that was closest to the pipes. You can see the damage in the pics. Heat ....pure and simple. I opend it up and the R/R is singed all the way through. So, in my opinion, I caused the failure by not making sure the unit had more distance away from the pipes. If anybody else has a better explaination I'm open to your thoughts. D'oh. Next time I'll have a better plan...... Just call me Sparky. Mike -
Here is a pic of the fuse panel. What do you think? Bike runs, but no turn signals. Thanks in advance, Don
-
I ride an 08 tour deluxe, I keep blowing the headlight fuse. I have installed passing lights wired in according to instructions (no relay). I also have it wired for a trailer. My question is this. If i keep shorting out headlight due to driving lights, shouldnt the driving lights go out as well? They stay on, and I wasnt pulling trailer either time when it happened. Besides each trailer wire has its own fuse, unless short is in behind license plate. I am guessing pinched wire near handlebars? Just looking for ideas on where to start when it gets light out. Thanks in advance....
-
Below is a brief description of a circuit modification to the CLASS system wiring to allow the system to be adjusted while the bike is running. This can be done with only removing the faux tank cover. I mentioned doing it in the thread below and a couple of members requested some details on it so I started a new thread detailing it. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=51557 I would like to preface this by saying that caution should be used if you choose to do this. Use care if you adjust air pressure in system while riding. I do not feel it will adversely affect the handling of the bike, but it will distract you. Not anymore than adjusting the CB or radio, but be careful. Yamaha states in the manual to put the bike on the center stand to adjust the air levels. A lot of people do not do this. I prefer to adjust it when sitting on bike so I can adjust ride height so I can see over the windshield. This adjustment varies depending on bike load. On 1st gen bikes with the Class system, there is an extra contact in the ignition switch that is energized only when the key is in the ACCY position. This circuit then goes to the CLASS fuse that is in a separate holder, located on the right side of the fuse panel above the battery. This fuse holder is shown in the first picture. All that is required to energize the CLASS system is to wire in a switch and fuse holder to provide positive 12 volt battery to one side of the CLASS fuse holder. I strongly recommend that you do use a switch on here so as to not power up the CLASS system all the time. I measured the current draw on the CLASS system, it pulls a little under 1/2 amp at rest and 5 amps when the compressor is running. The additional current draw full time on the system is avoidable by using a switch. The 1st gen's are known for having little extra capacity in the charging system as is. The second picture shows a switch with a fuse on the positive side. The blue wire is spliced into the existing CLASS fuse holder on the wire opposite the locking tab on the connector. This is the bottom wire in the first picture. The fused side wire is spliced into an accessible wire that is switched on when the key is in the on position. I used the wire that feeds the Accy block on the fuse panel. I attached this wire before the fuse to the Accy terminals. I did this so as to not overload the Accy fuse. The Accy terminals are energized when the key is in the ON or ACCY position. I mounted the small toggle switch in the fairing side cover. The use of a lighted switch would be helpful to show the system is energized. A lighted switch would also require a wire being run to ground to operate the switch. 16 gauge wire and a 10 amp fuse is sufficient to for this. Also attached is a partial wiring schematic showing this mod. The additional wiring is in the red 'cloud'. This is only a partial schematic, I deleted a lot of the wiring to make it easier to pick out. Complete schematics for 1st gen Ventures are at the thread below. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=42358 Gary -
I have a 1989 Venture Royale. My trunk light and emergency flashers don't work. There was some questionable wiring in the trunk by the PO and probably blew the fuse. The schematic shows a fuse in line but I can't find any fuses blown. Is the emergency flasher fuse located somewhere other than the fuse panel?
-
Several years ago I went to Walmart and picked up a couple of fog/running lights for about $16. I mounted them in the front vents which are useless to me with the lower fairings removed and I really like how well they work. They give a good pattern out to about 100 feet and also give good light down around my feet. Since I have them wired to the battery thru a fuse and switch, if for some reason I blew the main 40 amp fuse, which I did once, I still have lights and I think that is a great safety feature. I also upgraded my MKI headlight to a MKII light assemble and with a PIAA headlight bulb, I actually have pretty good lights for an 83 model. RandyA -
For those that are interested I am selling my 83 on Ebay. It has the fuse box upgrade and comes with the headlight upgrade (not installed). I had it painted last year and based on comments I think it looks pretty slick. Has good Metzler 880s on it. Not perfect by any stretch, but should be a good value for someone. Lots of chrome and lights added. If you know someone it should make a great tour bike for a great value for someone. Tried to put it on this site in the classifieds and submitted it twice but it has not shown up. Thanks, Bob -
I blew a fuse for my passing lights, so I had the cover off the fuse box. there is a fuse in there marked "back up fuse" Since I don't have any back up lights, I am wondering what that fuse is connected to. I have the fuse pulled right now and everything still seems to be working Bob
-
I will be removing the cassette deck and turning it into a storage box. It just so happens that my crackberry will fit in there perfectly. I would like to add a power outlet in the back of the box for charging the crackberry. Does the cassette deck have a power line running to it? If so can I add a power outlet to the end of that line after I take the cassette deck out? If so is there a separate fuse for that line and if so will I need to change the fuse for this? Finally if so which line is it on the back of the cassette deck? Thanks for your input on this. -
I have a '99 RSTD. The other morning I lost power to the headlight, speedo, and brake light. I found the fuse panel with the 20 amp fuse for the headlight and it looks like it had a big meltdown. I pulled the fuse out with a pair of needle nose pliers ( it was melted and came out in about three pieces). I cleaned up the fuse panel, put another fuse in and all is OK now with the headlight and speedo light but I have no brake light. I changed the bulb and still no luck. Is there a separate fuse block with a fuse for the brake light? The previous owner put a modulator in for the brake light but I don't think that has anything to do with it. Thanks for any help.
.thumb.jpg.e030d8724ef3f2eadc94ab840d0f3801.jpg)
