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Showing results for tags 'carb'.
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While reinstalling the diaphrams today I noticed something odd. On carb #3, (right front) the brass round piece that the diaphram needle goes into was protruding about 3/8" out of the carb throat wall. On the other three carbs it was flush with the carb throat walls. Could this be a factor in the poor gas mileage problem and why. See Pics attached. [ATTACH]71678[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]71679[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]71680[/ATTACH] -
I'm wondering what effect this condition has on my poor gas mileage problem, and what it means. I took the diaphram covers off the carbs. All of the diaphrams had 2 to 5 pin holes in them, plus Carb 1 (left front), 2 (Left rear) and 3 (Right front) as your sitting on the bike, all had a film of dry dirty, greasy coating the inside surface of the covers, and the carb surface behind the diaphrams. The diaphram had a sticky feel to it like wet paint. ( probably partially disengrating rubber coating from previouse pin hole fixes with liquid rubber) [ATTACH]71649[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]71650[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]71651[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]71652[/ATTACH] #4 (right rear) was cleaner and wet with gas:confused24:
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Sorry if this is the wrong place to post a question about a shop or person in Dallas/Fr worth that works on 1st Gen VR but I need to find a good shop or person within 100 miles of DFW that knows what they are doing. Carb work mostly. Appreciate any advise, help or clues on how to find a repair place for my 92 VR which has several issues. Thanks Roger -
i purchased a Carbtune about two years ago and shortly thereafter sync'd my carb. i thought it wouldn't hurt to re-sync, so i hooked up the Carbtune and lo and behold all four bars were within a gnat behind of each other. to those who are more familiar with syncing, my question - "is it normal for the carbs to stay synchronized"? btw the bike has been running great and i don't really have any complaints after 36k miles.
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I finally got home from over the pond and decided with all the warm dry weather to get the 1st gen out. Guess what? it wouldn't run without the choke on. If I tried to rev it up it just died. Bit of history, 86 Venture Royale. 36,000 miles, stock with the exceptions of upgraded fuse block, I put the aftermarket CDI box on it (bought through Dingy). Progressive springs, fork brace. After all the mods last year, I rode it for 18 miles and it ran great. I drained the carbs, put stabil in the gas and it sat until today. I drained the old gas out of the tank and put new in replaced the fuel filter, and tried to fire it up it wouldnt run without the choke on. Today I pulled the carbs, and cleaned them fully, I did find one of the little plugs in the carb on the bottom of the main jet block kind of looking mushy. ( they were new a year ago with a full carb overhaul. (Done by a carb re-builder) I replaced it with a new one from a kit I had left over. I tried it again and the same thing. Pulled the carbs again and made sure everything was good. The diaphrams are new last year, I replaced the plugs, checked for vacuum leaks and bad plug wires didn't find anything wrong. It still wont run without full choke. I even put the known good stock CDI box on and tried it. Still don't work. I am out of ideas to find the problem. I dont use the gas with the ethonol in it. can anyone help? rjjammer -
I have drilled the brass plugs out and now I need to know which way to turn to richen my carbs up a bit. I have searched on a lot of Mikuni sites but they seem to all have instructions because I can't seem to fine much info on BDS28/4 carb banks. So what do...counter clock or clock to richen just a bit? -
Gents, I broke a plastic part while removing my carb rack and it is not listed on the parts sites. The part is an elbow that connects a small rubber hose to the bottom of the carb. The hose is listed as call-out #47. The elbow is pictured without a call-out number. I don't know if this part can be removed! Any help will be appreciated . . .
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I was installing my JBM carb diaphragms, and I got a little to energetic getting the metal ring out and a carb slide broke apart. Anybody have one that I can buy? The condition of the diaphragm isn't important, I've got the new one to install. It's for a 1st Gen, MK II (89). Thanks, Frank D.
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Adjusted the one tight intake valve on my 89, and figured that seeing that the Tupperware was all off, I may as well check the carb diaphrams. I had small holes in 3 of them---my bike only has 58K miles on it. I looked up Sirius and found that they were out of stock on diaphrams until the end of the month. While doing searches here on this site, I came across Snagletooth's message about using Plasti coat to make a temporary repair. Home Depot carries Plasti coat, so this morning I followed Snagletooths' proceedure and this afternoon I re-installed the sealed diaphrams. In addition to the Tupperware, both heat shields (the ones that are over each valve cover) were out, so it was real easy to change the spark plugs. Heck, I also found an open plug cap. I ordered replacements, but I took the bad one apart and convinced it to work by cleaning everything up. The resistance is a bit high (the resistor itself reads high), but it'll work until the new ones get here. Then the fun began. I started the bike up, and it sounded good when you opened the throttle, but it idled badly and slowly. I checked the carb sync, and it was all over the place. I synced the carbs (both on the right side were almost completely closed) and I had to slow the idle speed down quite a bit. I also had to adjust the idle mixture screws. Now it's idleing great. Those holes in the diaphrams sure had an effect on how the bike idled. BTW, I had adjusted the carb sync in May, and it was idleing what I thought was OK before I started on the diaphrams. Tomorrow morning I'll put it all back together and if it's not raining like they predict, I'll take it for a ride.
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Went to start the bike today & don't know why but I turned the key on/off multiple times. Each time I noticed the fuel pump kicking in. I did it a dozen times in a row & the pump ran each time. Then I smelled gas & found that the right front carb had gas leaking around it (overflow?). After awhile I hit the start button for a couple seconds & it didn't start luckily. But I got pretty concerned when I saw gas coming out of the right exhaust pipe back by the rear wheel. WTF?! Is that normal even if the float is stuck? What to do now?
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What is the function of the little nylon roller on the horizontal carb linkage bar as indicated by the yellow arrow in the attached image? Should the pull-open throttle cable rest on this roller? This is on an '88 Venture Royale ZVZ1300 -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA '88VR
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Does anyone know where to get carb rebuild kits. I am having a hard time finding them. I called my local Yamaha dealers and they said it is to old. The only things on Ebay are full sets of used carbs. I an inn Grand Haven, Michigan.
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I just bought a 1983 xvz12 and it is not running very well. When you rev it up the front carb on the left side...the "piston looking thing" on the top (when air cleaner is removed) is not moving and the back carb is back firing when you rev it up. The right side seems okay. I was told it has been sitting since 89 but the last year he was driving to and from his MC club. and help would be greatly appreciated.
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Hi everyone, Just noticed the carb mount, throat thing on on the front left cyl is cracked. That would explain all the goo. What are these called? Can they be fixed? Looks like a little epoxy might do it maybe. Does anybody have any they would like to sell? Thanks!
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Workin on an 86 Venture, installed new diaphrams in the spring. 2 were in pretty bad-shape, cleaned the insides as best I could and installed new o-rings when checking the floats and needles. Does anyone have a list of the o-rings/seals and gaskets needed to properly tear down and rebuild the carb's? I plan to reuse the diaphams, (thanks Skydoc for sending the good sliders) and have resigned myself to taking them off and starting over. My fuel mileage went from 220-240 km's per tank, to less than 150. Also, seems to be fouling the rh rear carb quite a bit. I've turned the mixture back a half turn a couple times, and it seems to help the plug, but it's become a lazy pig again. Please help me getting the WINBGO back running her best. Thanks all..... -
Ok,after following Pegscrapers article on doing the 32 mm Carb upgrade on my 98 RSTD,I must say the Royal Star has never run better.The thing pulls at all RPM's better than it did and just generally feels waaay better! I'm a shade tree mechanic at best and I was able (with Lynn's help) to get it done.Even though I did the Bigfoot mod at the same time as the carb upgrade,I ended up closing off the cutout in my airbox as it was sucking too much air.(Full throttle hollow bog sound,ran lean,didn't pull well at higher RPM.)I closed the opening and it made a huge difference. I decided not to Jet up the mains yet but I did jet up the primaries to a 17.5.I may try to jet up one step just to see.It feels pretty good now,I've put maybe 300 miles on since with more to come...I have RK pipes with the center poked out about an inch.Sounds good enough but I'd like more volume. Oh and I sent my seat to Rick Butler while I was down too and all I can say is before anyone buys a new seat,try this first. It feels great.I've only done a couple of 150 mile days so far and I've feel like I can do some serious miles without the old hot spots in the butt that I used to feel...So,thanks to Lynn Nichols and Rick Butler and all the great tech on this site,I will be enjoying my Royal Star even more now!! -
It was a great surprise to see 86er and Bubba again. Gene got to meet Bubba and came away laughing and not believing what he was seeing. After we got back to my house we had some really cold adult beverage. After the bikes cooled down we went down and put the finishing touch on my freshly finished 83, Todd had his carb tune with him, so we just had to sync the carbs. Now she runs even sweeter than before, we had to call in the Calvary because we couldnt get them to match side to side. Tried calling the Muffin but no luck there, we finally got hold of Squidley and he gave us a few tips on how to correct it. Brad came through for us and we finished it up. Thanks Todd and Squidley, another payoff for my big $12.00 investment. Todd ended up spending the night and we talked and drank till Todd started falling asleep . ANother testimony to the worth of this fantastic place, THANKS DON!!!!!:thumbsup:
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I have been diligently reading all the carburetor posts and articles hoping that I would discover the secrets to remedy the problems with mine. I have only been partially successful thus far. I did find vacuum leaks between the boots from the air-box to the top of the carbs. Took it all apart, cleaned and reassembled. Started up and there was still a leak, a boot had slipped off of the carb. I have redone this process several times and the boots will not stay on top of the carbs when enough force is applied to stop the leaks. Is this a problem that is familiar to anyone?
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So here's the story relating to my 88. When I first got it I needed 1/2 choke just to keep it running. MARCARL and I cleaned out every oriface possible with the carbs still on the bike with carb cleaner and compressed air. We set it up best he could and since then I have seafoamed it with a very strong mixture overnight a few times, and add several ounces every 3-4 tanks. Once in a while I put in a heavier dose . It's had at least 8-10 cans thru it. I had a case of a sticky float (I think)on the #3 carb earlier this year as gas was pouring out the overflow tube. But it "fixed" itself when I tapped on the carb body with the handle of a screwdriver (I was on the side of the road at the time). Again...dosed with seafoam and it seemed to be OK for quite a while. Now I'm smelling gas (no overflow) and the idle usually but not always wants to hang up around 2500 rpm. What messes me up is that occasionally it is just fine! (900-1000) I"m finding I don't need any choke to start it. I bought a 2nd carb rack (minus diaphragms and sliders) and I have diaphragms and the basic VMAX ebay carb kit. Just wondering if anyone has any suggestions. Even changing out the carb rack would be a major undertaking for my wrenching comfort level so I'd like to wait for off season to do that.
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This 86 VR is my first v4, also the first 4cyl carb job I have had to do, just wondering if there's anyone around Portland Oregon that could come over and give me a hand? It would be nice to have someone help that's done this before. Thanks. -
I'm putting in a question for my friend that has a 1987 Venture 1300. His Venture has about 24000 miles and he has had it since new. We have had carb and choke problems. We changed the diaprahms and all of of them are now seated right and the slides are dithering as they should be. However the bike just doen't want to run without right without the choke. We've synched the carbs but it still bogs down under power. The exhaust are runnin hot air not cooler air as it should. Any suggestions would help. We have not taken apart the carbs and cleaned them yet. Dick
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i know most members here seem to like the morgan carbtune but i thought i heard it was taking forever to get them in the states. having said that my question is is the motion pro carb tunner any good? i can get one of these the next day.
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Any one out there had any experience with JBM industies carb. diaphrams? I have seen positive results here with the Sirusconic diaphrams. Just wondering how the JBM diaphrams compare. Price with shipping is nearly identical. Jeff
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Last weekend I pulled the carbs to seal up the base of the intake tubes with a little permatex black. Problem solved, no more creeping idle. The problem is I decided to drill and pull the caps on the pilot jets and when I did the right front carb the drill bit bumped the jet. Now the jet itself is fine, but when reinstalling the jet it bottoms out at about 2 full turns. I'm figuring I screwed the threads up. I set that needle at one and a half turns out just to be safe. I have the carbs I bought on ebay a few weeks ago and decided to use them for parts because they were dropped in shipment and the whole rack is crooked. So now I need some input from all of you. Will the carb thats on there run ok for now as it sits or should I change it? I'm out the door now for work, but I will check back in the morning to get your 2cents. Thanks, Ray. -
I've been working on the carbs and they seem to be coming to life. I was going to see if anyone local had a carb tune or similar synching tool, but figure I will need it again after I change my diaphragms later on down the road. The diaphragms are good but original so they will do for now. Thanks, Ray.
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