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Showing results for tags 'carb'.
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Today I got my '89 VR out on the road for the first time since I bought it back in August. I did notice she's a little stiff in the turns (maybe it's me..or the new tires or the fork brace). Anyways, what's getting me is that my bike is really backfiring (frequently) while I'm cruising at around 25-35 mph at approximately 3-4K RPM. She doesn't backfire while accelerating, while decelerating (using either brake or engine/transmission), or while idling. Even though I adjusted the idle knob and throttle cable before riding, she tends to run up to 2K RPM while stopped. I have cleaned out the carbs completely, have replaced the carb intake boots, the carb diaphragm, spark plugs, and doesn't appear to have any exhaust leaks. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. -
Restore is going slowly but surely. I'm ready to do the carbs but a dire warning in the service manual says not to separate them! How do you overhaul a carb w/o separating and what the heck does a carb assembly plate look like? I did take off the diaphragm housing on 1 carb and a bunch of parts fell out. The diaphragm was wrinkled but had no holes. Does the diaphragm come as a separate part or an assembly as the parts list shows? It seems to me that the diaphragm should be part of the piston if it is to move the piston. The brass collar that goes inside of the piston was just loose when I took it apart. Any advice on these items would be very much appreciated b4 I get myself in a heap of trouble. Thanks
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In another effort to find out why she ('83 VR) is running like crap, I was looking at some of the carb sync threads and was trying to locate all applicable parts on the carbs. Instead of a "plug" on the #2 (?) cylinder (left front) I noticed there is a vacuum line on there. This used to run to a cannister above the plastic heat shield on the rear cylinders and from there to ???? The cannister had a big hole melted into it following a exhaust leak and I never traced the outgoing vac line down. I did not see "vacuum line" mentioned anywhere, so is this thing on all bikes? i.e. does it matter/is it important? Am I correct in assuming that I should be OK to cap this tube altogether? Is it safe to say that if my plugs are all a light gray and the exhaust pipes all get hot my coils are good? Same question for the CTI? (which I have not found yet!) There is (a lot of) road grime on the left front carb towards the airbox and the left rear carb appears to be "wet" as well, any idea where this may be coming from? I seem to remember some/ several saying to pull the YICS chamber, don't remember why, if I do, do I plug the hoses or cross connect them and in which way? Well that ought to get me started I think. Thanks in advance! edit: should probably add that I could smell fuel while checking around -
Can anyone tell me were I might purchase some additional mercury for my old style carb stic?
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Just completed the carb mod to increase gas mileage on my 86 Venture. The mod from this site (with pics I may add) says to remove the white fiber/plastic spacer and replace with x2 m4 washers. Here's the lead in to the question.....when I removed the "slider"..the needle itself had some "play" to it...you could push it in a little and feel the tension of the spring. After the mod....that movement/free play is pretty much gone. Is this normal???
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I purchased the carb diaphragms from Sirius (who gave us the discount) and they were great. Really easy to install! However, I also purchased some carb mounts (boots between carb and head). They sell them WITHOUT the o-ring! I was very disappointed to see they don't come with the REQUIRED o-ring. Anyways, I would say get the diaphragms from them, but avoid the boots from them as they are not complete!
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Skydoc1 (Earl Harrel) gave me a hint that there was this Venture 2nd.Gen carb for sale on eBay. Please have a look at the pictures if they show up - or the eBay auction site (item number:130270132573) and advice me if this is the whole unit or if it looks like there is something vital missing. Have not pulled the carb from my bike yet so I am not sure how this should look like. Have been having trouble locating a 32mm second Gen. carb for sale and would hate to see this one slide if it is the whole unit. Note that I am not looking for the breather box or anything - just the carb. Just don´t know what the whole unit would look like when been pulled. Thanks in advance and friendly regards from Iceland (Norway at the moment). Jonas
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Ok guys, I recently got an 87 Venture Royale (merry christmas me!) from my wife. (what a keeper!) i've refreshed old bikes before, but not a full dresser like this one. I have a list in mind of things to check/clean/replace but i would like your input as well, since, well, obviously you guys are alot more familar with these old gals than me! so far on the list: new cables all around New fluids all around New Brake Pads Rebuild/Replace all the seals in the brake calipers Master and Slave rebuilds for the brakes Rebuild for the clutch master New Tires Inspect, dielectric grease and general cleaning of all electronics, and fuse box Tank inspection Petcock inspection Air filter clean/replace Carb clean/rebuild Carb Sync anything specific to these girls i should know about besides this? Thanks in Advance! - Jared
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Hope this keeps someone from getting stranded (or worse) on their 1st Gen. Check the short throttle cables - from the plastic junction box on left of the frame (where cruise cable connects) - to the carb assy. Mine pull side was frayed to within 2-3 small strands remaining where it hooks to the carbs. If it had let loose on the road it would not be a fun walk home. I only caught this Sunday during my first carb off cleaning. Fairing is removed now (was actually really easy), but I think you could inspect this in place with a flashlight. Look up between the left side intake manifolds, you may see the cable to the carb linkage coming down out of a tube, thats where it frays. I since found posted elsewhere here these tend to let go at 40-60K on 1st Gens. Mine has 61K. Had to dig to find this info, so hopefully this puts it in a more prominent place. Snow is at least good for one thing - maintenance........ Can't wait to get the old girl back on the road with her new clean carbs, Diaphraghms, valve adjust, plug wires etc. -
Can anyone tell me where I can get a Carb jet kit for my 86 Venture. I just got the bike and want to clean the carbs and replace the jets.
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Just curious if anybody knows for sure if this kit for the VMax will work on our MKI's and or MKII's. I know somewhere somebody said they might except for an o-ring or two. NEW YAMAHA V-MAX V MAX VMX12 KEYSTER CARB KIT 1985 - 2005 Kit K-923YK One Kit fixes one carb, bid price is for one kit Kit includes: includes float gasket; slide needle; float needle and seat; #90 intermediate and #37.5 slow jet; air screw; misc packing and gaskets and "O" rings as shown http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/YAMAHA-V-MAX-VMAX-VMX12-KEYSTER-CARB-KIT-1985-2005_W0QQitemZ380186182261QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotorcycles_Parts_Accessories?hash=item5884dcc275 -
Will 84 VSTD Carb Slides and Diaphragms fit my 88 VSTD? Just curious, sites that sell the replacement parts list 86-93 separately. I can buy a whole 84 cheap, this will help me decide to buy the parts bike or not.
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the rear tire off the bike. in another thread i posted about finding the rear tire flat and finding a pop rivet in the middle of the tread. i have to wait until next week before i can order a tire, so in the mean time i could do a carb tune, but i don't want to put the tire on & then off again when the new treads come in. Has anyone done this or should i just wait. dale in La
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Does any one leave there gas line open w/gas saver in it or do you drain the gas out of carb Ron
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Is there a carb rebuild kit for the first gens? Or does someone at least have a list with part numbers of all the gaskets, etc. that we need? thanx, Bill
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Well it looks like I need a larger stator..... I only have the yamaha passing lamps and a set of Motolights and the bike cant handle it... Drains the battery.... if I turn off the 55 watt Moto lights I could save the 8.3 amps... but I bought them to be seen....... I was going to pull the plug on the carb heaters, but this is wisconsin......I ride until it snows...never too cold with the buckeye stator I hope to have more than enough power -
I've read a number of threads here that give explicit details on how to synchronize the cards on an RSV using the Morgan CarbTune...basically "make all four of the bars match". Have a look at the attachment for reference. There are a LOT of smart folks here, so here goes: What is the effect adjusting all of the carbs so that their reading matches carb 4? Does this make things too lean or too rich? What is the effect adjusting all of the carbs so that their reading matches carb 3? Does this make things too lean or too rich? What are the net effects of running too lean or too rich? Any facts, conjecture or comments would be greatly appreciated! :confused07:
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Thought I'd give y'all a little first hand observation on the operation of the RSV carb heaters. Most anyone with an interest is this subject already knows that the four carb heaters pull a combined 60 watts of electricity, the equivalent of the stock driving lights. Considering the limited extra power output of our stock charging system for things like heated clothing and such, reclaiming that 60 watts is an oft-discussed issue. But the one thing we have never really discussed is just how often and how long those carb heaters are actually on. I added a cutoff switch last year to allow me to manually shut them off if I ever wanted, and I also added an LED to let me see just when they were really on. Problem is, I honestly never remembered to actually check it anytime it would have been of value! Well, when several of us were up in Palo Duro Canyon in the Texas Panhandle this weekend, I finally had a good chance to check it out and actually remembered to do it. This discussion is NOT about the technical specifications of when the thermostat triggers the heaters to come on and go off - you can find that in the shop manual. This is about real world observation of when they are REALLY on and when you might care. I found that when the temperature is 35 degrees, the carb heaters will stay on for about 30 minutes when doing low-speed and city type riding. After about that long, the combined heat from the engine and that right rear exhaust pipe (real close to the heater thermostat) will cause them to go off and stay off (PROVIDED you continue riding in the same conditions). BUT, at highways speeds (for this test it was anything above 60 MPH), the constant blast of cold air around the bike will KEEP THE CARB HEATERS ON CONSTANTLY. If you slow down while riding through a town, they will go off, but shortly after you get back up to speed, they come right back on. As the temperature approaches 40 degrees they will go off and stay off, even while cruising at 70 MPH. So, bottom line seems to be that the value of disabling the heaters to reclaim that extra electrical power will completely depend on your type of riding and the lowest outside temperatures in which you might ride. If you never or rarely venture out on two wheels when the temperatures are below 40 degrees, you can pretty much just ignore the carb heaters - they won't be on long enough to make much of a difference for you, even if you are pushing the limit of the available electrical power. Just half an hour or so of extra drain won't make much of a difference UNLESS that is about as long as you ride each time (such as only riding to and from work instead of on a long trip). However, if you tend to ride below 40 degrees, you really should think about putting in a switch. I think the most important advice I would give anyone who has concerns about the electrical capacity on these bikes is to add a digital volt meter. I have discussed the benefits and limitations of both volt meters and ammeters in some older threads, and although neither of them alone will let you diagnose the condition of both the battery and the charging system, the volt meter alone WILL suffice to give you a heads-up when you are on thin ice. In short, if all is good, the voltage should ALWAYS be over 13.0 volts while above idle. If you see it staying at anything below 12.9 volts while riding, either your battery is on it's last legs, or you have more electrical load than your charging system can handle (while having to charge the battery too). Goose BTW - as I have stated in many other posts over the years, from my own personal measurements, the stock RSV with Yamahaha riding lights (only 30 watts each) and carb heaters on is already at max load if you are using the audio system and CB too. There just ain't nuthin left for anything else but maybe a few LED lights. Some people claim to have been using 55 watt driving lights and heated clothing for years with no problems - good for them, but it ain't so on the two RSVs I have owned. Without the proper gauges you can THINK everything is fine, but you are slowly destroying your battery. And not even "slowly" if the bike is usually run for less than an hour each time you start it! If you don't have the gauges, but still want to know if your battery is really up to snuff, just use a decent digital volt meter and touch it to the battery terminals after the bike has been sitting overnight (any reading within 3 hours of the last ride will be invalid due to a superficial "float" charge). If the battery is not at 12.9 volts, it is NOT fully charged. And like I said above, if the volt meter does not read over 13 volts (preferably about 13.8 - 14.0) when you start the bike and bring the engine above idle, then it can't even properly charge the battery if it is not already damaged, hence the "slow death" that will have you buying batteries more often than you need to.
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Noticed a funny odor coming from my bike...I discovered fuel leaking from the over flow tube from the right rear carb... Anybody have any experience dealing with this type of problem? (and how to fix) Thanks -
Will carb rebuild kits for the V-max work on 1st gen ventures?
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Can someone please tell where I can purchase a set of the Carb Sync gages?
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what should my voltage be when running at speed,: 50 w driving lights wired directly, sylvania ultra headlight, rear running light/turn signal/ brake light,....carb heaters probably on, 4 month old battery, buckeye stator........ and if not correct....why....and what to test.......
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Anyone know the factory setting for idle and how to adjust it if needed? Had my 64k service done today and don't believe it was done correctly. I could take it back and say fix it, but if they potentially didn't do it right the 1st time... At a stop light, clutch pulled in, idles around 1100 rpm. Put it in neutral to be curious and it shot up to about 2-2100 rpm. I am pretty sure before I brought it in for service, the idle rpm speed was about the same regardless of in gear w/ clutch lever pulled all the way in or in neutral. Really not sure why it would make a difference. It practically accomplishes the same thing. Going in the highway at 65 mph, was around 2500-3k. Kinda weird that neutral and 65 mph are just about the same rpm. Also while going 65 mph, pull in the clutch lever and you can still hear the engine rev the same rmp for a few seconds instead of an instant drop. It more or less goes at the 2500-3k rpm for a few seconds and then gradually drops. I am used to an instant drop and not a delay. When shifting gears you hear the engine rev between the shifts. It runs pretty close to like it used to when going from 4th-5th. To quote the paperwork "Unit idles irratic and hangs us sometimes. Unit will need a carb. clean in the near future" Well I put in a full can of seafoam this year. Granted it could have loosened up some debris, plugged the jets, etc...but before I brought it in I wasn't complaining. It seemed to handle the same way (until after it was serviced today) since I bought the bike back in June '08 and this is the 2nd service done by this dealer. Just a guess, but I doubt the previous owner did anything for carb cleaning additives. So not sure if a carb cleaning is in order. On the 64k service they did change the plugs, synch the carbs, & adjust idle (amongs other things, they went by the 4k service). Can the comment about unit idles irratic and hangs up sometimes be related to the carbs being synched incorrectly? One of my questions (got a list made up already) to the tech on Tuesday when the shop reopens, is did he notice the irratic idle before or after the carbs were synched. I am pretty sure I know the answer, but I want to hear it from him. It was litterally at the end of the day and shop had about 10 minutes until it closed. The techs were gone except for the service manager. Asked her about the carb cleaning cost. She said and I quote "It has 2 carbs so $160" What!!!!! 2 carbs.....and you are a yamaha service manager. Just a wild guess, but I believe there are 4. I have read stories like this on this board but never happened to me until now. And also, I'll pass on the carb cleaning. The jets might need pulled to make sure there aren't any debris in them, but I ain't gonna pay to have it done for that much and based on my past 2 experiences w/ them, I ain't gonna let them touch the carbs. Too much knowledge on this board and also people that can help out if need be. I also mentioned to her that it's weird that it needs the carbs cleaned since I put in a can of seafoam earlier in the year. She said yeah, that stuff works ok, but sometimes you just have to pull the carbs all apart to get them really clean. Quick poll of '99 owners that have taken their carbs all apart to clean them or felt it was necessary. Thanks
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:bang head:hi all i have a full exhaust on my rstd i just bought. and they did not jet the carb. is there a jet kit out there for a 05 rstd. i cant find one.
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I have yet to order a CarbTune and I just flat out have not had the time to make my own yet and I still need a tachometer but I've been reading a lot lately about the signs that lead one to believe that it is time to do a carb sync and I feel that my bike is due... So here it is; Is there someone in or near west Texas that has a equipment, know-how, time, and patience to meet up with me and give me a hand syncing my carbs? I have an 01 RSV and am in Lubbock, Texas. I'll certainly be happy to meet you wherever and at your convenience of course. Thanks in advance! - Rick M.
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