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Showing results for tags 'brakes'.
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I just replaced my brakes (F&R) with EBC Sintered HH pads. I cleaned both front rotors with brake cleaner and install the pads. After 200 miles, the brakes didn't seem to "grab" enough...brake lever is solid (didn;t monkey with the brake fluid). Took them off, cleaned the rotors and brake pads with brake cleaner...get much better braking capacity, but now I get almost a metal-on-metal sound when I apply the front brakes. Any ideas or thoughts? I've seen folks here have sanded thier rotors and scuffed up their pads with sandpaper. That scraping sound is getting annoying...
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Is there any way to check wear on front brakes without pulling them? I've got 29,000 miles on them and they still work fine. Don't know how many miles you can get out of them. Glenn
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Like others, my rear brakes are toast after less than 1.5K miles. Hannigan was real good about this and express shipped me new rotors and pads overnight free of charge, but I'm still not overall happy with the Brembo pads, they are too coarse and chew the rotors up. Soooo, what I found out is they are pads for the rear of a Ducati. I believe KTM's use the same. Herre are a few cross references for you. EBC FA266 and FA266HH, and Dunlop DP601. I'm sure there are more but that's a little more groundwork. The reason for the puny Brembo calipers lies in the rear master cylinder. It is only a 1/2" bore and can not deliver enough volume of fluid to the stock Honda calipers. So, one of my many winter projectrs will be to try to morph a 3/4" master on to the RSV, and I hate to say this, but it will most likely be from a Harley unless I can find something from a metric bike...
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I just dont seem to be having any luck this year. I finally got the new brakes working. Talk about a nightmare but we wont get into that. The bike has been in the air for about 3 weeks now while I change the rear diff, Rear shock to a Works and add the R1 brakes. Finally I got to test drive it tonight and barely made it down the block and there is a hell of a rattle and rubbing noise under the stator cover. Now it came on all of a sudden and I dont have a explaination. Last year I added a High output stator but that was a year ago. I havent taken off the cover yet so Im just looking for some Ideas and things to look for. PS if I put a screwdriver against that cover I can actually feel the hitting. What do you think? -
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/YAMAHA-Front-Rear-Brake-Pads-XVZ-13-1300-XVZ13-Royal-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem2eae21db19QQitemZ200489949977QQptZMotorcyclesQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories Anyone have any experience with these pads?
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Hi guys, I'm having a heck of a time troubleshooting these brakes on my '83 Venture 1200TK. The rear brake pedal has been sloppy (no rear brakes) so I decided to bleed the brakes to see if it would fix the issue. It didn't so I moved onto cleaning and replacing the rear brake caliper seals and rebuilt the rear master cylinder as well. I've been bleeding the brakes for two days and the pedal is still "sloppy" (IE: The pedal is easily pushed all the way down) with no stopping power at the rear caliper. Your question is probably, "How are you bleeding the brakes?" and "Do you know the front left caliper is connected to the rear master cylinder as well?" Both great questions because I don't know a ton about this bike and i need help. As far as How I'm bleeding the brakes: 1st- I topped off the Rear master cylinder reservoir with fresh Dot 3. 2nd- With pedal depressed I opened up the bleeder on rear caliper. Some fluid and bubbles came out, so I tightened the bleeder and let off the pedal. Repeated 5 or 6 times. 3rd- I moved onto the front left caliper and with pedal depressed loosened the bleeder waited a few seconds and tightened. No fluid came out for the first 10-15 times I did this until finally... it did. Then I moved back to rear caliper and repeated, front caliper and repeated and so on and so on.... I still have no rear brakes after two days of this. Do you spot any errors in my technique? Please help me! God Bless -
Squeak when I turn right ? I have had squeaky brakes before but never just on a turn and in just one direction ?
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Since I replaced my rear brakes last week, I am getting a clicking sound when I apply my brakes. It's kind of like haing a playing card in the spokes of a bicycle (Hush, Yammer). It's not quite that loud, but I can hear it. I already tore it back down, and everything looks like it should. I am thinking it is just pad vibration. The pads are EBC HH sintered. Anyone else experience this?
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well i went to check the shop thats doing the brakes and what ever else he can perform in the 600.00 range dianne gave them permission to do. i was told i was doing nothing wrong with working on the brakes. but my brake system is now laying on the bench. front calipers rear calipers. front master. and rear master. front rubber hoses as well as the one i got from dingy for the rear. tires are off and all rotors have been pulled. reason why the man said hes going to start from scratch? clean up the rotors? work on the calipers. looking for steel or at least new rubber hoses? i asked if he could wait and i could get a delink kit for the brakes. he stated for insurance reasons he wouldnt want to take on that risk? he said good idea but he must follow shop rules? i asked how far on cost are we in it? he said tear down and inspection. are a freebie to dianne? he owes her a favor? then said to redo with rubber lines and clean up and check operation of pistons in the calipers then reassembly bleed and test run cost around $300. range maybe $400. with steel lines. then said another $60 and he would try a carb sync? that includes 4 new plugs. and a free compression check? then said latter this fall or winter get them progressive spring and do the front end. will charge $50 and a case of beer for that because he will do it at end of ridding season. im now painting a huge garage door. dog sitting two wonderfull beagle dogs use to be a cat around here to?? but i think buckey one of the dogs ate it??i have to watch him hes fast and loves rabbits? the female one sadeyes is her name just acts like a female. just bring me my food water my toys take me outside then after that i dont know you:big-grin-emoticon:
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anyone know where i can buy some for my 1984 venture? i have been working on my brakes. got the master from dingy here on this site. went out to use the mityvac.friend was helping he was going to do the back for me while i went to pick up some micky.d breakfast for us. i got back and he said hey man im sorry i couldnt get the vac to pump up? and i rounded off the back bleeder. i didnt get angry these things happen. but if he cant tell a 8mm wrench for god knows what he used? any way i know cant gett he mityvac to work on this back bleeder. i went to auto parts store napa.o,riley no help there. . so if anyone knows where to find some or has some for sale let me know. also can you use the speed bleeder ones with a mityvac? if i dont get these brakes done soon the bike goes up for sale.
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after reading on this site and deciding that im not happy with my brakes I have decided i only want to do this once so I am going to rebuild all 3 calipers and both master cylinders, does anyone have a good source for parts? also can i install a bleeder valve from a mkII in my 83 and anyone have one for sale or know where i could get one?
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Not from VR, but from my beloved 1st Gen. It just seems to be one thing after another, got it all painted and pretty and the brakes started acting up.The brakes had never given me a problem before I took it apart for the repaint, so I am baffled now as to why all the trouble. I would imagine the calipers need to be rebuilt. I put new pads all the way around, replaced the rear reservoir, started using Dot 4 brake fluid, and the brakes are still locking up after riding for a short while, while I was doing all of this today I found my front fender was cracked starting where the speedo cable holder is, something must have hit it because it was perfect when I put it back together. 2nd gear needs to be taken care of, it shifts into it but if you get on it hard it will pop out, was going to wait on Muffinman to help me with that, but I am just tired of having to do something to it everytime I turn around. It runs great, doesnt leak oil, has new Shinko radial on the rear, an Avon Venom on the front with about 50% thread left on it. It has am/fm,intercom, CB radio,Sony 10 CD changer mounted in the saddle bag and it all works perfectly. I also have an extra CB radio to go with it. I would like to get $1800.00 for it. I am going to give it one more chance, and if the info I read from Condor works on the brakes, this thread will dissappear............PLEASE STAND BY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!:think: [ATTACH]45619[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]45620[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]45621[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]45622[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]45623[/ATTACH]
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This is how I de-linked my Gen 1 brakes (probably applies to MKI & MKII): I found a front brake coupler that almost fit the mount holes on the lower triple tree (Kawasaki GPZ1100). These holes were used to mount a plastic holder - pic 3. The mount holes needed to be slightly enlarged and longer screws added. A local shop made two braided brake lines for about $42 each. I also bought a handful of aluminum crush washers from him. I reused the original rubber hose for the left front caliper to route the front brake master to the coupler. This hose will be replaced with another braided line soon. It is too long and seems to be making the brakes a little spongy. At first I couldn't get any brakes when the lines were connected and fluid was added. I pumped fluid through the system from the top with the master and pulled fluid from the bottom with a neighbor's brake vacuum tool. A note from this forum suggested strapping the front brake handle overnight and that worked. I now had a little bit of brake action. I bled the system again and strapped it for about 36 hours. The front brakes were working, but, the brake handle would touch the throttle grip without an impressive amount of braking. This is when I found the plunger adjuster. Inside the front brake handle is a screw with locking nut. It adjusts the stroke of the master. I set it almost all the way in. I can now pull emergency stopping with two fingers on the brake handle and not pinch the other two fingers on the throttle. I am very pleased with the way the brakes now work on my VR.
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I bought a Brake Bleeder made by Motion Pro http://www.motionpro.com/images/items/08-0143.jpg I used it for the first time today. Did my new-used Millennium Model brakes, front & rear OK. Started bleeding my clutch and noticed that bubbles were being sucked back into the line when I released the clutch lever. I checked to make sure the arrow on the one-way valve was pointed away from the bike, and it was... Pumped it again to confirm the situation... No doubt I now have air in my clutch line. I don't think this happened while doing my brakes, but I'll be cautious with them at first. Bled the clutch line by opening and closing the bleeder valve with a wrench each time I squeezed the clutch. A number of air bubbles came out. Time for a test ride to see if its ok.
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ok what am i doing wrong? i worked on my brakes a while back. i did over fill the rear master and had a overheat lock up. i lossened the bango bolts as i couldnt get the bleeder lose. this was a roadside emergency. i sat for a half hour. drank some water. and the bike was ready to go. yesterday it was in the 60,s i went for a 12 mile ride all was well. today its in the 80,s i went for a ride and damn i wasent even hardly useing the brakes just going up a hill got to top and then a nice long country road awaits me. then it happened again. brakes locked up? once again opened the bango bolts i need to get new bleeders . these are some what rounded off by PO. now there is no brakes what so ever for rear and left front. thats ok as i made it home. but did i put the wrong brake fluid in there and its over heating? bike says DOT3? i bet this has a low boiling point. any sugestions.? i borrowed my maxim and now looks like a no ride day. just sit back grill some steaks and get wasted. i guess. i did replace the rotors all new pads rotors where used from pinwalls off of ebay. only 21000 miles on them and looked good? well time to fire up the barbie i guess?
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Looks like I am going to have to have it rebuilt, replaced, something. It was my fault, I didn't get the pucks cleaned off enough when I replaced the pads and one of them is now sticking slightly. So now I am going to pay. They do work as is, but unless I want to go through a couple sets of pads in a riding season and to prevent any future issues, I should get it fixed. One of the puck edges has a slight angle to it. Just enough to cause uneven/premature pad wear. Pinwall has some for $25-$30. Would you trust it? After all it is used and makes you wonder what happened to the bike for it be end up in a salvage yard. Llike a rear brake failure causing an accident. I know skydoc has a setup but the price is way too much for me and I just need a rear setup. I know the R1 is more or less a racing bike and brakes designed as such but my concern is the R1 is alot lighter than a Venture. The R1 brakes weren't designed to handle a Venture. I know, I know, all the lawyer speak, liability and such. If we listened to it all, no one would put car tires on a bike either, but let's not get into that discussion. Checked the parts page and entire assembly is $340. Piston assembly by itself is $113 for 1 and $86 for the other but it says it is on backorder. Looks like seals by themselves is $60. Any suggestions? -
Okay here's the story: Most of you know that AL installed a Spiegler thumb brake on the Quike for me [moved back brake] He recently removed back wheel, replaced tire with car tire, greased all the splines etc. and replaced the rear brake pads.................now we don't have the thumb brake working again! He can get all the air out of the SS braided line, but still not enough resistance on thumb brake. It will bleed properly with original bike master cylinder, but not with thumb brake M/C. I have emailed Squeeze to see if he can ask Spiegler how to do their master cylinder, and for now Quickstep has linked the brakes.....so my question :think: What is your opinion on dual linked brakes on the Gen 2:confused24:
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well finished what me and a friend could do on the bike where not the greatest mechanics in the world. but here is what we finaly got done after dealing witha shady mechanic from before 1 we got the tires mounted new dunlops same as origional 2 rotors from pinwall installed all 3 of them. and let me say what a great place to get parts. 3 fresh new plugs and cleaned the caps 4 fresh oil 5 brand new brake pads ok now heres the problem the dash shows the brakes fluid thing its on all the time not flashing just on?? brakes are great so not sure what we done wrong? also still a little poping and rough idle i need to get these carbs sync. all in all she running good not great but good. but like willie says on the road again. now to install the radio. old one works but missing buttons and that great cassette gave up the ghost got one of them too. then install the false tank. old one needs some repairs to the fuel door and the tab that holds it. need to fix that but got a replacement not same color. but going to fix the old one as it has a mural that a friend did before he passed away. but i can say im on the road with the venture. and with time and good friends here i will get it right.
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I know that there was an old thread with this same title But i am having no luck with the searching. Anyways, my question is; has anyone tried to hook up electric brakes for the trailer behind the scoot? I am thinking of building a trailer to be able to haul large lightweight items (specifically big Radio control model aircraft). Not much weight but a lot of volume. I am loking at a box size of about 96" long x 40" wide x 24" tall. Max cargo weight will be 100lbs Typical would be more like 50 lbs. Every trailer that I ever pulled with a cage had electric trailer brakes, and I was wondering if anyone ever installed them on a scoot trailer? My initial thought is that It would sure make a difference in a panic stop situation as well as save wear and tear on the bikes braking system.
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I hated to do it because a lot of this work I could have done myself but, I dropped my bike off at the dealer to have a new rear tire installed, new air filters, gas filter, stearing head checked, new battery , stripped bolt removed etc, etc, etc......I am just so behind in things that need to be done around the house that I just decieded our safety is to important to let these things go rather than to rush around and do a half a$$ed job on the scoot myself....changed my rear brakes and the fluids last week and will check the front brakes when I get her back....bought a new shorty winshield and winshield pouches for my baby and Taters bought a new level 3 jacket for herself....I ordered a ram mount and aqua box for my mp3 player and will re-route some wireing when I get her back.....Just came back from bongobobbys to check out his trike and yes, he was installing some new toys himself....Dang, now he gave me some new ideas for my scoot..... *$#*^! YOU BOBBY..lol...now I have more work I want to do on my bike.... p.s. ..... this is cutting into my ice cream time:bawling:p.s.s. yamaha is going to replace my faring due to cracking of the plastic at the winshield..
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Lost my rear brakes on the way to work this AM. Looks like fluid spray on the rear tire--no rear brake pedal. Front brakes still working. Safe to drive carefully to the shop (10 miles)? Thank you ED
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I just purchased a bike that had been wrecked and sat for three years. The only problem with it is that the plastic got hurt. I have put everything back together except for the plastic. It will run and sound good however, when I put it into gear it dies. I have bleed the clutch. Is there something that has to be engaged before it can go into gear? The next question I have is how do I bleed the brakes? I am not use to working on motorcycles I normally work on cars. This bike sat for three years with no fluid in front lines. On a car I can open up the bleeders and gravity bleed to get fluid down to calipers. I can't seem to get it to work on my bike. I would love any help Thanks. Wow I am impressed with your site. 15 minutes and three answers. I will be your newest member. Thanks for the brakes I never thought about a vacuum bleeder. As far as the kickstand I have a picture on my dash that shows the kickstand when down it goes out when I put up could it still be bad. Does the center stand make a difference whether it is up or not. This is a 1988 sorry forgot to put year and I am in Oak ridge TN.
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well today it got up to 48 out side so i thought i would go give the old venture a try. i got it out of the garage. fired her up she idels rough as i knew she would. i put sea foam in it back in october a whole can to a full tank of gas but due to knee problem i never ran the heck out of it. well i was going to take it to a friends garage today for work on brakes , put on rotors , brake pads and tires. so i tokk it out for a 25 mile ride darn thing just couldnt get past 60 mph?? i got into town and pulled up to the stop sign. while letting off the gas. it backfired like a 410 shot gun. i swear i saw the lady in the cross walk duck. well after the back fire she seemed to smooth out some?? so i took her back out on highway and hit 70 mph?? then she started to bog down? well i got her home and went duh ! james you didnt put the new plugs in did ya? nope i forgot. chalk it up to want to ride syndrom. its now back in the bro inlaws garage as my friends apendix ruputred and hes now in the hospital. so no work done on it. me think its time for old goat to learn on this bike. so im going to check the oil make sure no gas in it. then do the plugs. and give her another try. i have to be carefull as brakes are not verry good on the bike. but i want to get her running fair to good. then up to freebirds maintenance day. to work out the bugs?? any thing else i should check out??
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How long do you go between changing out brake pads on your ride..........My Vstar is in the shop and they called and said I needed new brake pads front and back. I have right at 20,000 miles on them right now.................I dont believe I have abused the brakes, I thought I would get more out of them..............:think:
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Hi guys. When I got my bike last year it had brand new front rotors on it and the brakes were not very good. I asked and was told it would take a few hundred miles for the pads to seat nicely. I put on a couple thousand and am still really disappointed with the front brakes. The back will lock up easily and does too often because I think I am over-compensating for the fronts. The odd thing is I've read that some people find the fronts very touchy. So, what is your experience?
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